厦门湾口外近岸陆架区海底沙波发育特征

利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响.结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10～60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°～1°;平面上沙波区...     

Sand waves and other bedforms in lower Cook Inlet,Alaska

Abstract

Lower Cook Inlet in Alaska has high‐ tidal currents that average 3–4 knots and normally reach a peak of 6–8 knots. The bottom has an average depth of about 60–70 m in the central part of the inlet that deepens toward the south. Several types of bedforms, such as sand waves, dunes, ripples, sand ribbons, and lag deposits form a microtopography on the otherwise smooth seafloor. Each bedform type covers a small field, normally a few hundred to a few thousand meters wide, and usually several kilometers long parallel to the tidal flow. High‐resolution seismic systems, side‐scan sonar and bottom television were used to study these bedforms. Large sand waves with wavelengths over 300 m and wave heights up to 10 m were observed. Fields of ebb‐oriented or flood‐oriented asymmetric bedforms commonly grade into more symmetric shapes. Several orders of smaller sand waves and dunes cover the flanks of the very large bedforms. The crest directions of both size groups are normally parallel, but deviations of up to 90° have been observed; local deviations may occur where smaller forms approach the crests of the larger sand waves. Bottom television observations demonstrated active bedload transport in a northerly direction on crests and midflanks of southward asymmetric large sand waves, but not in their troughs. Movement of bedload occurs in the form of small ripples. Although the asymmetry of the large bedforms suggests that migration has taken place in the ebb or flood directions, the very low surface angles (2.5°‐8°) of these bedforms do not indicate regular movements. The large bedforms are probably relict features, or they migrate only under severe conditions, whereas active sand transport by ripples and smaller sand waves and dunes moves bedload back and forth with the tides. An understanding of such movements is essential for determining design criteria for offshore installations and in benthic‐faunal studies.     

台湾浅滩多尺度沙波地貌的地形傅里叶分解

海底沙波在全球广泛分布、成因复杂,但往往多种尺度的沙波叠加在一起形成复杂的沙波地貌体系,导致难以进行量化研究。针对该问题,本文提出一种实用的傅里叶分析方法,设计了巴特沃斯滤波器,将水深数据变换到频率域,进而将复杂沙波地貌分解成不同频率的单一类型沙波。并以台湾浅滩复杂的沙波地貌体系为例进行了分析研究,分解量化出3种空间尺度的沙波:巨型沙波(波长>100 m,波高>5 m)、中型沙波(波长5～100 m,波高0.4～5 m)和沙波纹(波长<5 m,波高<0.4 m)。本文提出的海底沙波地貌量化分析方法,有助于研究不同尺度海底沙波的成因与机理,对沙波区海洋工程的安全评估也具有实用价值。     

两相流模型在南海内孤立波与沙波相互作用中的应用

为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m³的悬沙浓度。     

Fluid expulsion features associated with sand waves on Australia’s central North West Shelf

Multibeam swath bathymetric data collected in 95–120 m water depth on Australia’s North West Shelf revealed two distinct populations of sand waves: a laterally extensive, low-amplitude composite form comprising superimposed dunes and ripples, and a laterally restricted form which has unusually high bedform heights and slopes. These large subaqueous sand waves comprise bioclastic ooid/peloid sand. Significantly, evidence of seabed fluid flow was detected in association with the high-amplitude sand waves. This evidence includes seabed pockmarks approximately 2–15 m in diameter imaged with side-scan sonar, tubular and massive carbonate concretions dredged from the seabed, and potential active venting of a fluid plume from the seabed observed during an underwater camera tow. Molecular and isotopic analyses of carbonate concretions collected from within pockmarks associated with the high-amplitude sand waves indicate that the fluids from which they precipitated comprise modern seawater and are not related to thermogenic fluids or microbial gases. The fluid flow is interpreted to be driven by macrotidal currents flowing over the relatively steep slopes of the high-amplitude sand waves. Pockmarks and carbonate concretions then develop where the interstitial flows are confined and focused by subsurface ‘mounds’ in a shallow seismic reflector.     

海南东方岸外海底沙波活动性研究

对海南东方岸外 2 0～ 50 m水深海底沙波形成的动力环境、形态特征、剖面结构及其分布特征进行了描述和分析。根据环境参数 ,对其活动性进行了计算 ,并将计算结果与发育环境相类似的 Surtainville沙波进行了类比。认为研究区沙波主要系在潮流作用下形成。研究区沙波迁移速率为每年数米。东区 (水深 2 0～ 40 m)是沙波发育的主体 ,受落潮流作用 ,沙波自北向南迁移 ;西区 (水深 36～ 52 m)沙波受涨潮流控制自南向北迁移 ;中区为过渡区 ,沙波相对稳定     

基于近底原位观测的小尺度海底沙波地形小波分解

浅海海床发育着不同尺度的活动性砂体,在大型活动性砂体上常叠加发育着大量小尺度沙波(纹),分析这些小尺度沙波(纹)有助于揭示活动性砂体的成因机制。但它们的尺度较小,常规分析方法往往将其作为高频噪声滤除,难以对该尺度海底沙波(纹)进行分离量化研究。为了解决这个问题,本文设计并实现了一种基于小波分析的小尺度海底沙波地形分解方法,并以台湾浅滩典型区域的高精度近底原位观测数据为例,实现了小尺度海底沙波地形的分解和定量分析,分解出背景地形、小型沙波和沙波纹(波长小于0.6 m)3种地貌类型。本文提出的小尺度海底沙波地形分解量化方法,可广泛应用于浅海高活动性地貌发育演化和海底边界层沉积动力过程研究,对评估海洋工程的稳定性也具有一定的实用价值。     

台湾浅滩海底沙波精细特征、分类与分布规律

迄今由于缺乏高精度的实测水深数据,对台湾浅滩沙波的精细结构缺乏详细的阐述。本文基于多波束实测资料研究台湾浅滩沙波形态的精细特征及其分布规律。多波束探测结果显示:研究区沙波的平均波高达到13.5m,沙波波峰处水深为20.42m,沙波平均波高约为水深的2/3,沙波的波长大多数处于500~700m之间。研究区内主要发育3种类型的沙波,即摆线型沙波、余弦型沙波和双峰型沙波。研究区西部主要发育双峰型沙波,中部则主要发育余弦型和摆线型沙波,而东部主要发育摆线型沙波,整个区域以摆线型沙波为主。海平面波动、台湾海峡复杂的水动力条件以及台湾岛丰富的山溪河流携带的大量沉积物进入海峡,对浅滩区的沙波具有强烈的改造作用。     

胶州湾口海底沙波的类型、特征及发育影响因素

采用多波束资料对胶州湾口的海底沙波类型、特征进行了研究,发现研究区主要有线性沙波(二维)、沙丘(三维)2种沙波类型。结合水流流速、海底构造和表层沉积物综合分析发现:海底沙波缓坡朝向与优势流向不完全一致,为强流作用的产物,在涨、落潮作用下均可形成;沉积物的多寡是研究区海底沙波类型分布的决定因素,海底松散沉积物较为丰富的地区形成二维沙波。在水动力强大的胶州湾口,沉积物多分布在构造低洼地带,使二维线性沙波的分布与海底断裂延伸方向一致。     

胶州湾湾口海底沙波地形地貌特征及其活动性研究

利用多波束、侧扫声纳以及单道地震资料对胶州湾湾口潮流作用下形成的典型海底沙波地貌的平面形态、剖面特征和分布特点进行了分析研究。根据实测的水文资料计算了不同潮流流速下沙波的瞬时移动速度,推测了直脊型沙波和新月型沙波的形成]化过程:区内新月型沙波在西向优势流的作用下大约以50m/a的速度向西迁移,直脊型沙波则在两端方向不一致的优势流长期作用下,发生逆时针旋转,同时在往复流的作用下以一个平衡位置左右摆动;就地貌形态而言,新月型沙波是不稳定的,直脊型沙波达到相对平衡状态。     

Coastline sand waves on a low-energy beach at “El Puntal” spit, Spain

Coastline sand waves have been observed at “El Puntal” spit, located on the north coast of Spain. The spit has been monitored by an Argus video system since 2003 and the formation and destruction of sand waves has been observed. Coastline data from the video images are analyzed by means of principal components analysis, obtaining a mean sand wave length of 125–150 m and a maximum amplitude of ≈ 15 m. It is also observed that sand waves reach their maximum amplitude at about 15 days. No propagation of these sand waves is noticed during the approximately two-month-long events analyzed. Sand wave formation and evolution are examined in relation with the prevailing local wave conditions during that period. Incident waves at the west end of the spit approach from the east–northeast, with a very high angle with respect to the shoreline. Field observations suggest that sand waves may result from an instability in alongshore sediment transport caused by moderate-energy waves with a high-angle incidence.     

Sand suspension and transport on the Middelkerke Bank (southern North Sea) by storms and tidal currents

Estimates have been made of the suspended sand transport at two sites on the Middelkerke Bank, in the southern North Sea, from suspended sand profiles and current meter measurements over a period of approximately 40 days. Sand resuspension was mainly due to waves while transport was dominated by a few hours when large waves coincided with peak flood currents. Soulsby's relationships for the stress under combined currents and waves were found to be poor predictors for the observed near-bed concentrations; the mean stress, , predicting 45% of the variance while the maximum stress, , predicted just 15%, and overestimate the effects of the waves. When the influence of the stress due to the waves is reduced, the variance explained increases to 67%. The sand transport rate on the steep slope of the bank was 10 times that of the southern end, and was up-slope at 25° to the bank axis, in the direction of the major axis of the tidal ellipse. The transport on the steep slope was mainly in the size range 100–140 μm which did not occur in any significant proportion in samples of the sea bed at that site but was advected from deeper water to the southeast. Excluding this finer component the transport rates of coarser sand (>200 μm) at the two sites were similar over the 40-day period. The up-slope transport during storms suggests that waves play an important part in the bank maintenance and are not simply the mechanism which prevents the continual growth of the sand bank due to asymmetrical transport by the tidal currents alone. The transport rates are consistent with a time-scale of 10²–10³ years for the formation of the Middelkerke Bank.     

Sand wave deposition in the Taiwan Shoal of China

The Taiwan Shoal is the convex terrain in the southern Taiwan Strait, the largest strait in China. In 2006 and 2007, 21 samples and more than 200-km sub-bottom data as well as 80-km near shore side-scan sonar data were gotten, which gave an initial image of the boundaries of the Taiwan Shoal and revealed the internal structure of the sand waves in this area. The results showed that the major component of the sediment samples was sand, and sand waves occurred everywhere in this area, which closely followed the range of the Taiwan Shoal as we know. The western boundary of the Taiwan Shoal thus reaches the 30 m isobaths near the shore, and as a result, its area potentially covers approximately 12 800-14 770 km². The sand waves have different shapes under the complex ocean dynamics, and the height of sand waves in the near shore is usually smaller than that in the Taiwan Shoal. The number of sand waves ranged from 1-5 per kilometer, with more waves in the isobath-intensive area, suggesting the importance of topography for the formation of sand waves. The stratigraphic structure under the seabed has parallel bedding or cross bedding, and large dipping groove bedding can be seen locally in different parts, which may be the result of terrestrial deposition since the Late Pleistocene.     

南海北部海底沙波迁移规律及其在台风作用下的响应研究

本文在南海北部海底沙波已有研究的基础上,总结分析了研究区表层沉积物以及沙波的形态、分布、迁移特征;使用区域海洋模式（ROMS）模型模拟了研究区2010-2011年的底部流场数据;利用Rubin公式模拟计算了海底沙波的迁移规律,并与搜集所得资料进行对比分析;结合台风资料及底流数据,分析了台风对海底沙波运移的影响。研究结果显示:海底沙波运移方向的计算结果与搜集所得资料比较吻合,均为向东向南方向;不同站点的迁移距离在0~21.8 m之间,且为往复累积的结果。这表明:Rubin公式在ROMS模型模拟所得底流资料的支撑下,可以再现海底沙波的迁移过程。模拟计算的研究区内两个站位在"凡亚比"台风影响期间的迁移距离分别为2.0 m、2.9 m,分别占其年运移量的9.17%和26.36%,说明台风过境能对海底沙波的迁移产生重大的影响。     

Large-scale ripple marks on the shelf margin of the Northern Okinawa Trough

Trains of large-scale ripple marks (megaripples and sand waves) were found on the Amakusa and East China Sea shelves bordering the northern Okinawa Trough. Side-scan sonar surveys were carried out in 1974 and 1976 to investigate sea-floor features lying along a proposed submarine cable line. Megaripples were found on the outer margin of the Amakusa shelf between depths of 140 and 200 m. The megaripples were especially well developed at a depth of 167 m. They were typically straight-transverse crested with asymmetrical profiles, and measured 7 to 15 m in wavelength and 0.4 to 1.4 m in waveheight. Formation of the megaripples on the Amakusa shelf is probably controlled by relatively complex oceanographic conditions. A secondary circulation associated with the Gotô-nada clock-wise Current may be responsible for formation of the ripple marks. Local vorticities generated in the coastal boundary layer as a result of curvature of the Gotô-nada Current are known to cause the complex flow pattern at the Gotô and Amakusa shelf margins. The main semidiurnal (M₂) tidal current may also interact with these fluid processes.On the East China Sea shelf, megaripples and sand waves were found between depths of 140 and 220 m. Sand waves (200 m in wavelength) were observed in seismic reflection profiles. Large-scale lunate megaripples were observed at a depth of 154 m by the side-scan sonar. They had wavelengths of 10 to 30 m and waveheights of 1 to as high as 3 m. It appears from the types and nature of distribution of the megaripples that they are responding to the present-day flow regime, and it is partly ascertained from our observations over an interval of two years that the megaripples appear to be short-term response elements compared wit hteh sand waves. We conclude that the megaripples on the East China Sea shelf are current-formed during peak typhoon flow in August to November. From their distribution, the long term path of the main flow of the Tsushima Current is inferred at the edge of the East China Sea shelf. An area of low sediment mud content (less than 20 per cent) coincides with this path giving further support to our interpretation.     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

Puzzling mass movement features in the Navarinsky Canyon head,Bering Sea

Two types of morphologic features in the head of Navarinsky Canyon are attributed to mass movement of near-surface sediment. A series of pull-aparts is located downslope of large sand waves. These pull-aparts, possibly induced by liquefaction, affect the upper 5 to 10 m of sandy sediment (water depths 350 to 600 m) on a 1^o slope. A hummocky elongate mound of muddy sand (water depths 550 to 800 m) contains chaotic internal reflectors to a subbottom depth of 30 to 40 m and possibly is the product of a shallow slide. We speculate that Holocene seismicity is the likely triggering mechanism.     

海南岛西部岸外沙波的高分辨率形态特征

利用SIMRAD-EM3000多波束探测系统和DGPS定位系统,对海南岛东方岸外的沙波沙脊区进行了高精度探测,分析结果表明:从海岸到陆架底形具有明显的分带性,依次出现弱侵蚀底形段、沙波沙脊底形段和平坦底形段。沙波仅发育于沙波沙脊段,介于水深20~50 m之间,沙波形态有二维与三维两种,沙波波高多为0.7~2.5 m,波长20~70 m,沙波指数(L/H)为20~60,对称指数为1~3;沙波沙脊区沉积物的搬运方向有明显的规律性,在沙脊的西侧,沉积物主要向北搬运;在沙脊的东侧,沉积物主要向南搬运;沙波的形成和发育主要受潮流场控制,热带风暴对其有改造作用。     

Ephemeral sand waves in the hurricane surf zone

Airborne bathymetric LIDAR observations along the Florida panhandle after Hurricane Dennis (2005) show the first unequivocal observations of surf-zone sand wave trains.

These are found in depths of 5m along the trough of the hurricane bar, where hindcasts show strong longshore currents only during severe storms. The waves extend over tens of kilometers of coast after Dennis but are absent from the same area in four other datasets. Observed wavelength to water depth ratios are comparable to river dunes and tidal sand waves but height to depth ratios are smaller, with the largest wave heights around 0.1 times the water depth. The sand wave generation mechanism is hypothesized to be from wind-and-wave-induced longshore currents, which were hindcast to be large during Dennis, with destruction from water wave orbital velocities.     

Regeneration of sand waves after dredging

Sand waves are large bed waves on the seabed, being a few metres high and lying hundreds of metres apart. In some cases, these sand waves occur in navigation channels. If these sand waves reduce the water depth to an unacceptable level and hinder navigation, they need to be dredged. It has been observed in the Bisanseto Channel in Japan that the sand waves tend to regain their shape after dredging. In this paper, we address modelling of this regeneration of sand waves, aiming to predict this process. For this purpose, we combine a very simple, yet effective, amplitude-evolution model based on the Landau equation, with measurements in the Bisanseto Channel. The model parameters are tuned to the measured data using a genetic algorithm, a stochastic optimization routine. The results are good. The tuned model accurately reproduces the measured growth of the sand waves. The differences between the measured weave heights and the model results are smaller than the measurement noise. Furthermore, the resulting parameters are surprisingly consistent, given the large variations in the sediment characteristics, the water depth and the flow field. This approach was tested on its predictive capacity using a synthetic test case. The model was tuned based on constructed predredging data and the amplitude evolution as measured for over 2 years. After tuning, the predictions were accurate for about 10 years. Thus, it is shown that the approach could be a useful tool in the optimization of dredging strategies in case of dredging of sand waves.