Laboratory-scale generation of tsunami and long waves

Physical modeling of long waves in laboratories is still a valuable and trustworthy option to study long wave propagation, run-up and near-shore dynamics, and complex nonlinear interactions of approaching wave and macroroughness elements on the shore. Yet, problems develop if full-scale measured time series of real tsunami or numerically derived time series are to be adequately modeled in a timewise meaningful and scaled experiment. Hence, an in-depth review of the state-of-the-art long wave generation methods in laboratory wave flumes and basins is conducted. The study reveals that improved laboratory techniques could significantly contribute to enhance the accuracy and applicability of experimental tests. This would give important information on the interaction between the shoreline and infrastructures on land in order to deduce valuable information on the topic of tsunami inundation processes or wave-induced impacts on houses. In this light, a novel wave generation technique using high-capacity pipe pumps under some control and a loop-feedback control is meticulously developed and discussed. The wave generation facility is successfully tested for single sinusoidal leading depression waves as well as for prolonged solitary and leading depression N-waves of varying duration. The long wave generation technique is further assessed in terms of its capability to generate long waves abstracted from prototype conditions. The influence of controller settings on the resulting waves is discussed.     

浅水潮波模式变分同化共轭码技术研究

以浅水潮波模式为例，详细讨论了共轭码技术的使用方法以及代码检验，并建立了海洋浅水模式的共轭模式。利用浅水潮波模式及其共轭模式进行了流速和水位的初始场优化试验。试验结果表明，初始场优化对于潮波系统数值模拟具有重要的作用，同时也说明利用共轭码技术可以有效地设计共轭模式，进行各种同化试验研究，显示了共轭码技术的诸多优点。     

直驱式波浪能转换系统的研究和性能优化

A direct-drive wave energy conversion system based on a three-phase permanent magnet tubular linear generator （PMTLG） and a heaving buoy is proposed to convert wave energy into electrical energy. Sufficient experimental methods are adopted to compare the computer simulations, the validity of which is verified by the experiment results from a wave tank laboratory. In the experiment, the motion curves of heaving buoy are with small fluctuations, mainly caused by the PMTLG＇s detent force. For the reduction of these small fluctuations and a maximum operational efficiency of the direct-drive wave energy conversion system, the PMTLG＇s detent force minimization technique and the heaving buoy optimization will be discussed. It is discovered that the operational efficiency of the direct-drive wave energy conversion system increases dramatically after optimization. The experiment and optimization results will provide useful reference for the future research on ocean wave energy conversion system.     

Displacements induced by breaking waves on axially loaded cylindrical shells

Forced vibrations of the walls of a vertical cylindrical shell under the impact of a breaking wave are studied theoretically. The wave action is modelled as a pressure distribution which varies in time and space. A linear dynamic analysis of the transient response is carried out by means of the modal superposition technique, in which the static stresses are considered. The results show that in thin shells, the transient displacements could be of the order of the thickness of the shell. It is suggested that these large displacements could play an important role in eroding the buckling capacity of the structural component. The problem of limiting the dynamic displacements is discussed by interaction diagrams for static axial load-dynamic lateral pressure, and by examination of the confluence of shell and wave parameters for which the transient displacements do not exceed a given value.     

地震正演模拟技术在准噶尔盆地西北缘七区地震解释中的应用

地震正演模拟技术是用数学或物理的方法研究地震波在某种具体的简化模型中传播的特点,用来模拟真实地质结构条件下的地震波场.随着油气勘探的难度越来越大,该技术得到了越来越广泛的应用.以准噶尔盆地西北缘七区三维地震解释中的应用为例,正演模拟技术在地质模式的识别、断裂的精细刻画、速度异常的分析、小断裂的识别等方面都有较好的效果.     

A statistical analysis of non-linear random waves

A statistical analysis of unidirectional non-linear random waves is presented which is based on second-order random wave theory. The analysis technique is similar to a method which is available for the statistical analysis of a two-term Volterra series. It is shown that the statistical problem can be reduced to that of finding the eigenvalues and eigenvectors of two real symmetric matrices, from which the cumulants, the characteristic function, and the probability density function of the surface elevation can be found. Various numerical examples are considered, and the possibility of extending the technique to deal with spreading seas is discussed.     

Experimental Measurements of Solitary Wave Attenuation Over Shallow and Intermediate Submerged Canopy

Attenuations of solitary wave over a patch of submerged canopy are experimentally investigated. The submerged canopy is modeled by a group of circular cylinder array. The decay coefficients of different wave heights in two water depths along the wave flume are measured for six canopy models, including two canopy heights and three styles of arrangements. The relationships among the decay coefficient, and the dimensionless wave height, submergence ratio, relative height and arrangement of the canopy are experimentally studied. 2D PIV technique is employed to measure the representative flow field inside the canopy. A four-deck flow structure is proposed for wave flow field over shallow submerged canopy. The characteristics of shear flow inside the aligned canopy region are discussed.     

Experimental measurements of solitary wave attenuation over shallow and intermediate submerged canopy

Attenuations of solitary wave over a patch of submerged canopy are experimentally investigated. The submerged canopy is modeled by a group of circular cylinder array. The decay coefficients of different wave heights in two water depths along the wave flume are measured for six canopy models, including two canopy heights and three styles of arrangements. The relationships among the decay coefficient, and the dimensionless wave height, submergence ratio, relative height and arrangement of the canopy are experimentally studied. 2D PIV technique is employed to measure the representative flow field inside the canopy. A four-deck flow structure is proposed for wave flow field over shallow submerged canopy. The characteristics of shear flow inside the aligned canopy region are discussed.     

A Numerical Model for Edge Waves on A Compound Slope

An edge wave is a kind of surface gravity wave basically travelling along a shoaling beach. Based on the periodic assumption in the longshore direction, a second order ordinary differential equation is obtained for numerical simulation of the cross-shore surface elevation. Given parameters at the shoreline, a cross-shore elevation profile is obtained through integration with fourth-order Runge-Kutta technique. For a compound slope, a longshore wavenumber is obtained by following a geometrical approach and solving a transcendental equation with an asymptotic method. Numerical results on uniform and compound sloping beaches with different wave periods, slope angles, modes and turning point positions are presented. Some special scenarios, which cannot be predicted by analytical models are also discussed.     

Nearshore Wave Field Analysis Using SAR Images

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High-frequency radar measurements of the ocean wave-directionalspectrum

Measurements of the ocean wave directional spectrum using a dual, high-frequency (HF) radar system are presented. A model-fitting technique is used to obtain wave measurements from the radar Doppler spectra. Over 100 h of data, collected NURWEC2 (Netherlands-UK Radar Wavebuoy Experimental Comparison), have been compared with measurements using a WAVEC directional wave buoy. The amplitude and directional characteristics of long-wave components at frequencies of 0.07-0.1 Hz in general show good agreement. Reasonable estimates of the directional spectrum across the whole frequency range are obtained when the assumptions of the model-fitting technique are appropriate. Remaining problems in radar measurement and difficulties in assessing accuracy are discussed     

Wavelet analysis for processing of ocean surface wave records

Wavelet analysis is a relatively new technique and in the recent years enormous interest in application of wavelets has been observed. This modern technique is particularly suitable for non-stationary processes as in contrast to the Fourier transform, (FT), the wavelet transform (WT) allows exceptional localization, both in time and frequency domains. The wavelet transform has been successfully implemented in signal and image processing, ordinary and partial differential equation theory, numerical analysis, communication theory and other fields. On the other hand, the application of the WT to ocean engineering and oceanography is rare. In this paper the WTs capability to give a full time–frequency representation of the wave signals is demonstrated. The processing of the time series of the non-stationary deep water waves, waves breaking at the tropical coral reefs and mechanically generated waves in the wave flume demonstrates the ability of the wavelet transform technique to detect a complex variability of these signals in the time–frequency domain. Various spectral representations resulting from the wavelet transform are discussed and their application for wave signals is shown.     

A new approximate solution to the surface wave problem

Recent measurements of wave kinematics, showing that the horizontal velocity under the trough is in absolute value greater than the velocity under the crest, can not be explained by the Stokes theories up to and including the fifth order theory which are normally used by the offshore industry in the design process. This has led to a reconsideration of the surface wave problem. By applying a Green function technique a solution is obtained which reflects these recent experimental results on wave kinematics. This solution and the Stokes higher order solutions represent different approximate solutions to the surface wave problem. It turns out, however, that this new approximate solution gives a better fit to the measurements than do the approximate solutions obtained from the Stokes higher order theories. In the present paper deep water waves are discussed, but the method of solution can just as well be applied to the finite water depth case.     

Stability and liquefaction analysis of porous seabed subjected to cnoidal wave

Cnoidal wave theory is appropriate to periodic wave progressing in water whose depth is less than 1/10 wavelength. However, the cnoidal wave theory has not been widely applied in practical engineering because the formula for wave profile involves Jacobian elliptic function. In this paper, a cnoidal wave-seabed system is modeled and discussed in detail. The seabed is treated as porous medium and characterized by Biot's partly dynamic equations (u–p model). A simple and useful calculating technique for Jacobian elliptic function is presented. Upon specification of water depth, wave height and wave period, Taylor's expression and precise integration method are used to estimate Jacobian elliptic function and cnoidal wave pressure. Based on the numerical results, the effects of cnoidal wave and seabed characteristics, such as water depth, wave height, wave period, permeability, elastic modulus, and degree of saturation, on the cnoidal wave-induced excess pore pressure and liquefaction phenomenon are studied.     

Nonlinear effects of the distribution of amplitudes of sea waves

The effect of nonlinearities, such as wave-breaking and vertical asymmetry associated with sea waves, on the distribution of wave amplitudes is explored. Semiclosed theoretical expressions are derived to describe the distributions of breaking-limited crest and trough amplitudes for Stokes-type nonlinear sea waves. These are compared with the conventional Rayleigh distribution appropriate to linear wave amplitudes. The construction of nonlinear wave envelopes with the fast Fourier transform technique is described. The technique can be utilized to enlarge the data base in empirical analyses of field records which typically contain limited information on amplitude characteristics. The theoretical distributions and the proposed data enlargement technique are demonstrated with the analysis of a nonlinear wave record.     

Estimation of incident and reflected waves in regular wave experiments

This paper presents a laboratory technique for measurement of reflected waves by a submerged horizontal plate. A simple method is proposed to decompose the composite wave record obtained from the wave reflection experiments in the wave flume. The data collected were used to compute the reflected wave height by means of two and three probe methods proposed by other investigators and compared with the directly computed reflected wave using the measured incident wave. The experiment was carried out for a horizontal plate of 1 m length spanning the full width of the flume with wave periods ranging from 0.8 to 1.8 sec with 0.1 sec increments and wave heights of 5, 10 and 15 cm. The methods using two and three probes with phase measurement yield better results than the three probe method without phase measurement, and in general they have a wider range of application. The method using three probes without the phase measurement generally fails due to numerical instability of the scheme. The results obtained by the proposed method are compared with the two and three probe methods and a comparative analysis of the four methods is presented and discussed.     

水下平板与波浪相互作用完全非线性数值模拟(英文)

利用完全非线性数值波浪水槽技术研究水下平板与波浪的相互作用。假定水下平板厚度极薄、刚性,位于有限水深并且非常接近自由水面。应用四阶龙格库塔方法追踪每一时刻的波面形状,采用阻尼层来吸收反射波以保证算法的稳定性,同时引入平滑和重组的方法抑制自由表面控制点的较高梯度。通过对波浪与浮动圆柱相互作用的数值模拟证实了数值波浪水槽方法的有效性,计算结果与线性理论吻合良好。在波浪数值水槽方法中引入造波板模拟波浪产生并与水下平板发生相互作用,应用傅立叶解析方法对波面变形、波浪力作了分析。结果表明在板非常接近自由水面的情况下会表现出现很强的非线性,揭示了线性理论的局限性。     

Standing wave pressures due to regular and random waves on a vertical wall

The standing wave pressures due to laboratory-generated regular and random waves exerted on a vertical wall were measured in a wave flume. The standing wave pressures were measured at four relative depths of submergence on the test model. The regular wave test conditions ranged from intermediate to deep water conditions. The measured pressures due to regular waves were compared with results obtained using linear theory and third-order solution. In the case of random wave tests, the dynamic pressures due to the time histories of water surface elevation following the spectral characteristics of Pierson-Moskowitz and Bretschneider spectra were measured. These pressures are compared with simulated pressures obtained through the linear filter technique of Reid. The variation of pressure spectra along the depth are presented. In addition, comparison of spectral parameters, i.e. zeroth moment, spectral width parameter and narrowness parameter of measured and simulated pressure spectra, are reported and discussed. The behaviour of the coherence function between the wave elevation on the wall and the corresponding pressures is also discussed.     

Hydrodynamic Coefficients and Wave Excitation Forces for A Ship near A Quay

In this paper,the effects of a quay or a solid jetty on hydrodynamic coefficients and vertical wave excitation forces on a ship woth or without forward speed are discussed.A modified simple Green function technique is used to calculate the 2D coefficients while the strip theory is used to calculate the 3D coefficients. Wave excitation forces are also calculated with the strip theory. Numerical results are provided for hydrodynamic coefficients and vertical wave excitation forces on a 200000 DWT tanker ship. It is found that the quay has a considerable effect on the hydrodynamic coefficients and wave excitation forces for a ship.     

Numerical implementation and sensitivity analysis of a wave energy converter in a time-dependent mild-slope equation model

Several Wave Energy Converters (abbreviated as WECs) have intensively been studied and developed during the last decade and currently small farms of WECs are getting installed. WECs in a farm are partly absorbing, partly redistributing the incident wave power. Consequently, the power absorption of each individual WEC in a farm is affected by its neighbouring WECs. The knowledge of the wave climate around the WEC is needed to predict its performance in the farm. In this paper a technique is developed to implement a single and multiple WECs based on the overtopping principle in a time-dependent mild-slope equation model. So far, the mild-slope equations have been widely used to study wave transformations around coastal and offshore structures, such as breakwaters, piles of windmills and offshore platforms. First the limitations of the WEC implementation are discussed through a sensitivity analysis. Next the developed approach is applied to study the wave height reduction behind a single WEC and a farm. The wake behind an isolated WEC is investigated for uni- and multidirectional waves; it is observed that an increase of the directional spread leads to a faster wave redistribution behind the WEC. Further the wake in the lee of multiple WECs is calculated for two different farm lay-outs, i.e. an aligned grid and a staggered grid, by adapting the performance of each WEC to its incident wave power. The evolved technique is a fast tool to find the optimal lay-out of WECs in a farm and to study the possible influence on surrounding activities in the sea.