华南海岸沙坝瀉湖型潮汐汊道口门地貌演变

华南海岸沙坝Ｘｉ湖型潮汐汊道主要分布在小潮差岬湾海岸段。汊道口门基本地貌单元有口门深槽、落潮三角洲、涨潮三角洲、内湾沙嘴等。其形态特征与海岸动力及泥沙条件有关。汊道口门迁移、落潮主水道迁移、冲流坝和水道边缘坝向岸迁移和并岸，是汊道口门地貌演变的主要模式并具周期性特点。Ｘｉ湖港湾大规模围垦堵海或注入港湾的河流改道直接入海，这些人类活动可能导致汊道口门急剧变化和航行条件恶化而必须进行整治。     

纽约长岛一个小型潮汐汊道的水力学与地貌动力之间的短期相互作…

为了研究潮汐通道水力学与地形变化的机制及汊道对邻近海滩的影响，我们详细观测了一个小型潮汐汊道水力学与地貌的演变过程。由于波浪输沙大于潮流冲刷，汊道的水文与地貌发生了剧烈的变化，最后在观测的第八天就座淤闭了。波浪输沙形成汊道内的浅滩，汊道口门断面面积，引起了摩擦效应加大，使汊道水流经历了由落潮为主向涨潮为主的转化过程。     

湛江港期汐汊道落期三角洲动力场模拟和沉积动态分析

用数值模拟方法揭示湛江潮汐汊道落潮三角洲的潮场特征和波浪场特征，探讨落潮三角洲地貌的形成，演化过程中的沉积动力学意义，并提出湛江港落潮三角洲沉积物的运动模式。     

胶州湾沉积环境与潮汐汊道演化特征

研究了胶州湾沉积物输运格局，沉积速率和潮汐汊道演化特征，结果表明，胶州湾口门水道内的悬沙净输运是从湾内指向湾外，湾内水体悬沙浓度终年较低，胶州湾的泥沙来源较少，沉积速率较低。历史上的围垦活动虽造成了纳潮量的减少，但口门过水断面面积并未减小。胶州湾是一个地貌演化缓慢，口站过水断面面积小于均衡状态面积的汊道系统。今后，可应用沉积动力学等方法确定维持港口和航道资源所需的纳潮量，结合纳潮海湾的环境保护和生态建设，定量地确定胶州湾的围垦潜力。     

黄渤海沿岸海湾—溺谷型潮汐汊道的地貌结构

本文以丁字湾等基岩海湾为例，论述了黄渤海沿岸海湾－溺谷型潮汐汊道的地貌结构，尤其着重于口门段深槽及涨、落潮三角洲。认为涨、落潮三角洲的发育状况与入湾河流的供沙量、纳潮水域容量、波浪作用、潮差以及口外海域的开阔程度有关；泻湖型潮汐汊道的落潮三角洲的典型模式可以应用于海湾－溺谷型潮汐汊道，但涨潮三角洲因受基岩海湾的复杂岸线的限制而不能充分发育。本文还讨论了海湾型潮汐汊道与半开敞海湾在动力和形态中的差异     

华南海岸沙坝瀉湖型潮汐汊道口门地貌演变

华南海岸沙坝湖型潮汐汊道主要分布在小潮差岬湾海岸段。汊道口门基本地貌单元有口门深槽、落潮三角洲、涨潮三角洲、内弯沙嘴等，其形态特征与海岸动力及泥沙条件有关。汊道口门迁移、落潮主水道迁移、冲流坝和水道边缘坝向岸迁移和并岸，是汊道口门地貌演变的主要模式并具周期性特点。　湖港湾大规模围垦堵海或注入港湾的河流改道直接入海，这些人类活动可能导致汊道口门急剧变化和航行条件恶化而必须进行整治。     

潮汐汊道及其沙滩的安全风险和动力机制

为提高海水浴场的安全性,避免发生溺水事故,文章以潮汐汊道及其沙滩的动力地貌结构和发育演变为基础,研究青岛市灵山湾城市阳台海水浴场沙滩的安全风险和动力机制,并提出风险防范建议。研究结果表明:河口潮汐汊道落潮流三角洲的潮汐水道延伸至沙滩滩面,高潮时淹没,落急时水流集中,形成流向外海的高速水流,极易引发海水浴场安全事故;区域落潮流与汊道落潮流相叠加、落潮流三角洲阻挡沿岸输沙造成下游局部岸段侵蚀以及沿岸输沙变化导致水道迁移摆动等因素进一步加大潮汐汊道附近沙滩的安全风险;安全风险最大的地点位于沿岸输沙下游与区域落潮流流向一致的潮汐水道末端附近沙滩,且该位置不稳定,随波浪场发生年际和季节变化;在潮汐汊道沙滩岸段设置海水浴场前应研究其动力地貌和发育演变,划分危险区和安全区,浴场设置后定期监测并确定危险区的位置,并在沙滩安全维护和质量评价等方面将潮汐汊道作为重要判定指标。     

Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system

The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour.     

Applicability of sediment transport models to evaluate medium term evolution of tidal inlet systems

This paper derives local formulae to estimate bed roughness and suspended transport and present a method to calculate net sediment transport at tidal inlet systems, combining field data and a range of well established empirical formulations. To accomplish this, measurements spanning a spring-tidal cycle of mean water levels, waves, near-bed flow turbulence and bed forms were obtained from the Ancão Inlet, Ria Formosa lagoon system, Portugal. High-resolution hydrodynamic data were gathered using acoustic equipments and by measuring sediment properties (grain-size diameter and bed form dimensions) under fair-weather conditions. The results compared favourably with available direct and indirect field observations of sediment transport rates. The approach appears to be robust and widely applicable and so can be applied to the same conditions in any tidal inlet system. This is of particular importance when attempting to understand sediment transport at inlet mouths, and has practical applications in a range of coastal engineering and coastal management areas concerned with navigation safety, coastal erosion, ecosystem health and water quality. The study discusses the applicability of the method on evaluating system flushing capacity, giving important insights on multiple inlet evolution, particularly with regard to their persistence through time. The methodological framework can be applied to assess the long-term stability of single- and multiple-inlet systems, provided that estimates of sediment storage at ebb-tidal deltas are available and sediment transport estimates during storm events are statistically considered.     

The dynamic behaviour of a river-dominated tidal inlet, River Murray, Australia

Australia's largest river, the River Murray, discharges to the southern ocean through a coastal lagoon and river-dominated tidal inlet. Increased water extractions upstream for irrigation have led to significantly reduced flows at the mouth and, as a result, the area is undergoing rapid change, particularly with regard to the rate at which sediment is being transported into the lagoon. Based on detailed and accurate bathymetric surveys it has been possible to estimate that the rate of lagoon in-filling is of the order of 100,000 m³ per year for the period June 2000 to May 2003, although the actual rate shows significant year to year variability. Dredging of the lagoon commenced in 2000 in an attempt to reverse the trend.In an effort to understand the behaviour of the inlet a one-dimensional numerical model of the inlet has been developed. The model extends the original of van de Kreeke by including a dynamic inlet throat area based on predicted river flows and a sediment transport module to predict the resulting net sediment transport. Comparisons with water level data collected on both the ocean and lagoon sides of the mouth have shown that the model is able to predict the attenuation and lag of the tidal signal reasonably well. The sediment transport model was based on predicted sediment concentrations in the surf zone and was found to predict the rate of sediment in-filling to an acceptable level of accuracy. It is envisaged that the model will be a useful management tool, especially since it is possible to manipulate river discharges to the mouth.     

砂质底质潮汐水道均衡态模拟初探

以过程模拟法探讨了发育在砂质堆积体上的潮汐水道的均衡态问题.在潮汐作用为主导、初始状况为平坦海底、底质粒度均一等条件下,利用修正的Bagnold推移质输沙率公式和沉积物连续方程,建立砂质潮汐水道均衡态的一维模型.数值实验结果表明,潮汐水道达到均衡态的时间尺度为10a以上,水道形成的早期冲刷速度较快,随着时间的推移,冲刷减缓.从水道冲刷出来的物质在水道前方形成堆积体.潮汐水道的演变受控于水动力变化和沉积物冲淤的负反馈机制,水道均衡态主要与沉积物粒径、涨落潮流速、历时、流速沿水道轴向分布的组合特征有关.流场特征决定了水道均衡态的形态;在沉积物组分均一的情况下水道均衡深度与潮流流速呈正相关;达到均衡态的时间尺度与沉积物粒径、涨落潮历时、流速的变化以及水道规模有关.沉积物临界起动流速随深度的变化对水道均衡态有较大影响.     

基于FVCOM模式钱塘江河口涌潮三维数值模拟研究

应用FVCOM模型进行钱塘江涌潮的二维和三维数值模拟,并使用2007年10月大潮期间的现场观测结果进行模型验证。结果表明,平面二维模拟结果与实测值吻合较好,与基于Godunov算法求解钱塘江涌潮二维特征的结果基本一致。三维计算结果再现了流速在垂向上的差异,以及在落潮转向涨潮时刻,涨潮先从底部开始,垂向上从底层向表层逐步从落潮流转为涨潮流。敏感性分析显示模型网格大小和曼宁系数的选取对模拟结果有较大的影响。     

海岸河口潮流数值模拟的研究与进展

对海岸河口地区潮流场的数值模拟方法进行了较为系统的归纳总结和评述,对潮流数值模拟的发展趋势进行了分析.     

象山港内三维动边界潮流的数值模拟

象山港是一具有广阔潮滩和大潮差区域的半封闭型海湾,进行数值模拟时必须引入动边界技术来考虑露漫滩的影响.在二维模式中引入动边界技术相对成熟一些,而将这些二维模式使用的露漫滩处理方法简单地搬入三维模式中,常遇到由于边界不连续变动而产生的数值"噪音"及计算不稳定现象.原始POM(Princeton ocean model)模型采用固定边界,没有使用动边界技术,故无法模拟漫滩流.借鉴BURCHARD et al 2004年的研究工作,在原始POM模型的基础上,突破其为固定边界模式的局限,基于尽量使模式物理上满足流动简化需要的原则,引入了一种较为自然的动边界处理技术,使得在非常浅水处和复杂的地形情况下,应用合理的数学表达式体现该物理过程.当总水深大于设定的临界水深时,体现的数学方程是通常形式的动量方程;而当总水深接近设定的最小允许水深时,模型的动量方程被简化为变化率、摩擦力和正压梯度等项之间的平衡关系,此时由于摩擦力占优,相应的流速也会趋于0,这样可以有效避免计算中出现负水深.除在非常浅水处对动量方程作简化外,对于陡坡地形附近的露漫滩问题,当发生一个网格点上的水位低于相邻格点海床的现象时,还需对正压梯度的求解作一个简单的数值处理,以避免不合理值的出现.此外,通过修改原始POM模型的底摩擦系数表达式,可使模型在模拟露漫滩过程时计算更加稳定.改进后的POM模型被用来模拟象山港海域内的三维潮流场,模型计算结果与2个潮位站、1个锚系站和2个船测连续站资料进行了比较,符合良好.整个模型很好地再现了象山港内大区域三维涨、落潮流特征和变化规律,同时象山港顶区域涨憩、落急、落憩和涨急4个特征时刻的流场水平和垂直分布变化过程反映该模型能很好地反映涨、落潮造成的潮间带的露漫滩过程,由此说明对原始POM模型所作的修改是十分有效和可行的,有利于进一步扩充POM模型的应用范围.     

Sediment dynamic processes of the Yuehu inlet system, Shandong Peninsula, China

In order to investigate the sediment dynamic behavior of the Yuehu, a small inlet system characterized by abundant sediment supply and rapid sediment infilling, measurements and sampling were undertaken to obtain data sets of tidal water levels, current velocities, suspended sediment concentrations, grain size parameters, deposition rates and organic carbon contents. Sediment budget and the time–velocity asymmetry patterns of the inlet system were analyzed. The results show that the deposition rates are relatively high within the tidal basin. The total sediment flux cannot be balanced by the input from the open sea, the aerosol and biological production; rather, the material from land (which has been intensified by agricultural activities over the past several decades) represents a major component for the balance. Thus, the denudation rate must be reduced to protect the Yuehu as a natural reserve. Furthermore, it is found from the present study that the Yuehu inlet system exhibits all of the four time–velocity asymmetry patterns with varied frequencies of occurrence, compared with the two asymmetry patterns identified for larger inlet systems; such phenomena are partly due to the adjustment of entrance channel geometry. This behavior may be representative of the small tidal inlets at their late stage of morphological evolution and, therefore, may be utilized to prolong the lifespan of small inlet systems.     

潮滩前缘盐沼植被簇团与潮沟系统演变相互作用研究

潮滩前缘盐沼植被簇团可以通过改变水动力及泥沙运动等过程影响潮沟系统的地形地貌,而潮沟系统的地形特征也会影响盐沼簇团的生长、扩张与侵蚀,但对盐沼簇团与潮沟系统地貌演变的相互作用机制尚缺乏认识。针对这一问题,本文构建了考虑盐沼植被动态演变的潮滩生物动力地貌耦合模型,模拟了盐沼植被簇团生长扩张与潮沟系统地貌演变过程,分析了不同初始数量的盐沼植被簇团与潮沟系统的空间格局及形态参数间的双向反馈。结果表明,潮沟先迅速向海陆两侧延伸,后发育出大量分汊;盐沼簇团向周边扩张后未被潮沟切割区域逐渐连成片。少量盐沼簇团能够增加潮沟密度,促进边缘冲刷式潮沟系统的发育。潮沟的走向受盐沼簇团分布位置及数量的影响,多个盐沼植被簇团间的水流集中比单个簇团的边缘水流冲刷更易形成潮沟。在盐沼植被簇团与潮沟系统共同发育初期,潮沟系统发育受盐沼植被簇团的促进作用较大,后期潮沟内比簇团边缘更易形成水流汇聚,盐沼簇团的影响逐渐由促进作用转为稳定作用。此外,潮沟的存在限制了盐沼植被的横向扩散,切割了盐沼植被簇团,影响盐沼植被的空间分布格局。本研究揭示了盐沼植被簇团与潮沟系统地貌耦合演化机制,可为盐沼潮滩生态系统保护修复提供科学依据。