Shoreface morphodynamics on wave-dominated coasts

An open ocean shoreface typical of long, wave-dominated sandy coasts has been examined through a combination of extensive field measurements of wave and current patterns with computations of marine bedload transport and sedimentation. Sand transport on the upper shoreface is dominantly controlled by waves with only secondary transport by currents. Sand on the middle and lower shoreface, as well as the inner continental shelf is entrained by storm waves and transported by a complex pattern of bottom boundary layer currents.

Storm events have been studied and modeled for the shoreface off Tiana Beach, Long Island. The dominant effect of coastal frontal storms is to cause significant shore-parallel bedload transport with important shore-normal secondary components. These storms tend to result in net offshore transport of sand removed from the beach and surf zone systems. The bedload transport during a storm is convergent on the shoreface leading to accretion. Most accretion occurs on the upper shoreface with lesser deposits covering the middle and lower shoreface as well as the inner continental shelf. Longer-term equilibrium can be maintained by slow return of sand up the shoreface during non-storm conditions.

Annual and geologic time-scale budgets of shoreface sand transport and sedimentation yield equilibrium, net accretion or net deposition. The annual balance results from an integration of the event-scale bedload transport patterns and morphologic responses. These processes and responses have feedback mechanisms which stabilize the system over longer, but not geologic, time scales. Geologic time scale balances are controlled by relative sea level changes and relative availability of sediment supply with the event-scale shoreface and transporting processes providing the mechanism to produce the changes in long-term morphology and sedimentation patterns. In the area of study, the long-term pattern is one of net shoreface erosion, and the permanent loss of sand to the shelf floor.     

Delta lobe degradation and hurricane impacts governing large-scale coastal behavior,South-central Louisiana,USA

A large deficit in the coastal sediment budget, high rates of relative sea-level rise (~0.9 cm/year), and storm-induced current and wave erosion are forcing barrier shoreface retreat along the periphery of the Mississippi River delta plain. Additionally, conversion of interior wetlands to open water has increased the bay tidal prism, resulting in degradation of barrier islands due to inlet widening, formation of new inlets, and sediment sequestration at ebb-tidal deltas. Single-beam bathymetric surveys along a 165-km stretch of south-central Louisiana barrier coast, from Raccoon Point in Terrebonne Parish to Sandy Point in Plaquemines Parish, were conducted in 2006. These data, combined with historical bathymetry from three time periods (dating to the 1880s), provide a series of digital elevation models that were used to calculate sediment volumetric changes and determine long-term erosional-depositional trends. Dominant patterns during the 125-year period include (1) erosion of ~1.6 × 10⁹ m³ from the shoreface, forcing up to 3 km of shoreface retreat, (2) sediment deposition in coastal bights and at ebb-tidal deltas, and (3) a combined increase in tidal inlet cross-sectional area from ~41,400 m² to ~139,500 m². Bathymetric and shoreline change datasets separated by shorter time periods (sub-annual) demonstrate that these long-term trends are driven by processes associated with major hurricane impacts, and that rates of shoreface erosion are an order of magnitude greater during active hurricane seasons compared to long-term trends.     

Sediment transport and morphology at the surf zone of Presque Isle, Lake Erie, Pennsylvania

A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m³ of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m³. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases.

The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore.

The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model.     

Shoreline changes and beach-sand sorting along the northern Sinai coast of Egypt

 Changing shoreline positions along the Sinai coast of Egypt were determined by comparing aerial photographs and historical charts with present-day conditions. The analyses identify longshore patterns wherein erosion along a protruding stretch of the coast gives way to accretion in an adjacent major embayment. This pattern defines two coastal subcells consisting of source/sink couplets. There is a general correspondence between the mineral variation, grain sizes of beach sand, and the patterns of shoreline changes. Associated with erosion/ accretion shoreline change is a selective transport of different minerals according to their densities and grain sizes. Two heavy-mineral groups were obtained by applying Q-mode factor analysis on the heavy-mineral data. These two groups are influenced by transport processes, including sediment provenance from different sources: eroded Nile delta west of Sinai, relict sediments from the former Nile distributaries, and sediment supply by land valleys and from wind-blown sand. Received: 2 June 1995 / Revision received: 29 May 1996     

杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段近岸滩槽冲淤演变分析

以杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段边滩及海床为研究区域,利用1989—2014年实测及海图资料分析岸滩断面地形变化和岸段冲淤变化。结果表明:在该研究时段,岸段存在长期稳定的冲刷深槽;近岸海床的冲淤表现出“波动性”,5 m等深线(2014年)以浅区以淤积为主,5 m等深线以深冲淤更迭,1989年以来总体呈现冲刷态势。长江入海泥沙量变化为该岸段发生侵蚀/淤积的影响因子之一,台风大浪及海床侵蚀/淤积波的移动导致海床冲淤复杂化。     

钦州湾人工海滩剖面变化过程

波浪和潮汐作用下的海滩剖面动态变化过程是海岸演变及沿海防护工程设计与旅游资源规划的核心内容。本文以广西钦州湾沙井半岛人工海滩为研究区, 基于GPS-RTK采集的2018年1月—2019年12月的逐月剖面高程实测数据, 通过分析剖面冲淤和单宽体积变化, 利用EOF(Empirical Orthogonal Function)函数揭示剖面的高程变化模式, 进而探讨海滩剖面的动态演变过程。研究的主要结果表明: 1) 在观测期间, 人工海滩剖面的冲淤情况整体展现出冬春季淤积、夏秋季侵蚀的变化特征; 2) 人工海滩剖面因泥沙横向输移而导致不同横向分带的单宽体积变化趋势呈差异性, 不同横向分带具有侵蚀与淤积交替出现的情况; 3) 人工海滩剖面的变化模式可划分为由强降雨及台风导致剖面高程明显降低的主要模式、波潮影响下的剖面高程经历强降雨及台风后逐渐淤积和恢复的次要模式、波浪破碎形成卷流引起滩面冲淤变化的其他模式。     

湛江湾填海工程对海床冲淤的影响预测

建立了湛江湾泥沙数学模型,模拟了湛江湾海床冲淤演变,模拟结果表明,湛江湾海床较为稳定,年冲淤强度小,模拟冲淤分布与历史海图资料得出的长期演变趋势符合。模型用于湛江湾围填工程对海床冲淤变化的影响预测,结果表明工程后海床冲淤强度没有明显的改变。另外,优选了围填方案,估计了港池的淤积强度。     

Influence of morphodynamic variability over seasonal beach sediments and its probable effect on coastal development

Seasonal variations and effect of oceanographic processes such as erosion and/or accretion along beaches are important to understand their impact on coastal morphological variations. Detailed investigations were taken up to analyse the volumetric and morphologic variations of the beaches between Pirwadi (latitude 16° 12′ N, longitude 73° 26.55′ E) and Sarjekot (latitude 16° 05′ N, longitude 73° 27.80′ E) of South Maharashtra, Central West Coast of India. This stretch is known for its rich deposits of ilmenite, magnetite and chromite. This study is based on the results of seasonal topographic profiles carried out between October 2004 and December 2005. The volume variations of the sediments, i.e. an account of accretion and/or erosion, were estimated considering the October 2004 profile as the base reference, over which the values of other seasons are compared. The results of beach profiling from Pirwadi to Talashil indicate the seasonal variations in the beach configuration and the gradient.In the studied areas the vulnerable areas are Tondavali, Talashil and Pirwadi in a decreasing order of erosion while Bagwadi shows lesser erosion. Several reasons can be attributed for these erosional trends. Among which the prominent are rip currents, wave dynamics, variable coastal configuration, beach gradient and temporary monsoonal seaward flowing streams. In contrast, significant deposition occurs throughout the year at Hirlewadi due to sediment transported by due south by littoral currents. Therefore, considering the sensitivity of the fragile coastal system, future developmental activities (mining, tourism, etc.) need to be planned in tandem with the required protective measures such as construction of reinforced concrete curved wall and geotextiles.     

Forcing of large-scale cycles of coastal change at the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington

Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater.Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary.     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。     

海南岛东北部海滩侵蚀与恢复对连续台风的复杂响应

在连续台风作用下海滩的侵蚀与恢复是一个复杂的过程。基于海南岛东北部木兰-抱虎湾海滩的现场调查,对比分析台风"威马逊"和"海鸥"登陆前后海滩剖面和后滨沉积物的动态响应。结果表明,超强台风"威马逊"引起海滩的严重侵蚀和强烈的泥沙输移,在木兰湾海滩主要表现出由北向南沿岸海滩的差异性变化,在抱虎湾各海滩变化较为相近;后继登陆台风"海鸥"引起海滩显著堆积,对海滩主要起恢复作用,木兰湾海滩恢复效果明显,海滩后滨沉积物趋于恢复至台风前的状态,由于抱虎湾水下珊瑚礁及近岸岩礁地貌减缓了台风对该处海滩的侵蚀和堆积作用,抱虎湾海滩表现出与台风前较大差异性。两处海湾海滩的不同走向及台风的风向变化也是造成海滩不同响应的重要原因。研究将有助于更好地理解海滩对连续台风作用的复杂响应。     

An experimental study on geometric characteristics of beach erosion profiles

The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H₀=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d₅₀=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.     

One-year along-beach variation in the maximum depth of erosion resulting from irregular shoreline morphology

Beach erosion and accretion occur across multiple time scales. Over long time scales (decades to millennia) the shoreface ravinement surface, which is recognized as a coarse lag deposit, forms at the shoreface toe as a result of wave- and current-induced erosion during shoreline transgression. Over short time scales (hours to days) the depth of sediment disturbance, which is recognized as coarse lamina and measured at the foreshore by devices and monitoring tracer beds, forms as a result of wave- and current-induced reworking during a tidal cycle. The maximum depth of erosion (MDOE), quantified here over 1 year, is modulated by processes that operate over a time scale that is between the drivers of short-term (e.g. tides and waves) and long-term (e.g. sea-level rise) beach erosion. The MDOE integrates the erosion that occurs over a discrete time interval and records the maximum depth of erosion that is likely principally induced by storms, which is difficult to quantify by other methods that rely on discrete observations (e.g. changes in elevation or movement of the mean high-water line). A novel technique for quantifying the MDOE, based on comparing the bedding and stratigraphy between cores collected at the same locations over a discrete time interval, is presented here and applied at Onslow Beach, NC, USA. This 12 km-long barrier island has irregular shoreline morphology, characterized by two embayments separated by a central headland. This shape is largely the result of variations in the depth of underlying rock strata and produces a steeper beachface at the headland than at the embayments. At each of the six sites examined along the barrier, the MDOE is found to increase from the backshore to the middle intertidal zone and is higher at the sites closer to the headland. These variations in the MDOE are likely due to the increase in average wave energy impacting the beachface from an offshore direction and steeper beaches (intermediate beach state) at the headland. Where the MDOE is within the beach facies, it is not associated with a coarsening, which is due to the heterolithic nature of the Onslow-beach strata. Where the MDOE is the contact between back-barrier and beach facies it is always associated with a coarsening and a gravel-rich lag deposit because in this case, the MDOE is an amalgamation of multiple erosional events, which is similar to the shoreface ravinement surface. Along-beach variation in the MDOE does not correspond with discrete observations of beach change over the same period and is likely a better indicator of erosion potential than long-term discrete observations, such as changes in surface elevation or the position of the mean high-water line.     

渤海海峡沉积物输运的数值模拟

根据渤海海峡空间尺度的大小、潮流特征和沉积物的性质特征 ,构造了一个平面二维沉积物输运数值模型。模拟结果显示 ,在研究区内 ,成山头附近的海底沉积物净输运向东南和东北 ,渤海海峡西部的沉积物向西北输运 ,北部大连沿岸的沉积物顺着辽东半岛向西南方向输运 ,然后绕过辽东半岛的南端向北输运。在渤海海峡中部偏东 ,沉积物的净输运趋势形成一个反时针方向的旋涡 ,愈往中心沉积物的净输运率值愈小。海底冲淤趋势的计算结果与观测的结果相符 ,且中部泥区和山东半岛北部近岸泥区正好对应于海底淤积区 ,辽东半岛南岸的狭长泥带对应于淤积条带 ,泥质区的边缘为冲刷区。     

基于原位观测的胶州湾沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程研究

海洋动力作用下,河口海岸地区海床通常处于动态变化之中。作为地质环境的控制因素,海床沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程的研究具有重要意义。为阐明胶州湾海域水动力条件对海床侵蚀再悬浮的作用,本文利用海底原位观测三脚架进行了现场观测。观测结果显示：通常条件下,潮流导致的最大海床剪应力可达0.35 N/m²,高于波浪引起的剪应力。涨潮期间,海床发生侵蚀;退潮期间,海床发生淤积。风速达到5 m/s时,波浪引起的剪应力近似等于流致剪应力。风速达到7 m/s时,有效波高为26 cm,波浪对海床侵蚀再悬浮过程起主要作用;此时也会导致海水浊度显著上升,高于通常条件下的2-8倍。分析表明：通常条件下,周期性海流影响海床侵蚀再悬浮过程;而大幅度沉积物再悬浮过程由偶发的波浪事件控制。针对胶州湾沉积物动力学机制的深入研究仍待进一步开展。     

Investigation of the effects of offshore breakwater parameters on sediment accumulation

Littoral sediment transport is the main reason for coastal erosion and accretion. Therefore, various types of structures are used in shore protection and littoral sediment trapping studies. Offshore breakwaters are one of these structures. Construction of offshore breakwaters is one of the main countermeasures against beach erosion. In this paper, offshore protection process is studied on the effect of offshore breakwater parameters (length, distance and gap), wave parameters (height, period and angle) and on sediment accumulation ratio, one researched in a physical model. In addition to the experimental studies, numerical model in which the formulae of the sediment discharge (i.e. the formulae of CERC and Kamphuis), was used was developed and employed. The results of the experimental and numerical studies were compared with each other.     

The influence of tides,wind and waves on the redistribution of nourished sediment at Terschelling,The Netherlands

A calibrated morphodynamic model of the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands [Grunnet, N.M., Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., 2004. Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Eng. 51/7, 581–607], comprising the island and its two adjacent tidal inlet systems, is applied to identify the relative contribution of tides, wind and waves to the cross-shore and alongshore redistribution of a 2 Mm³ nourishment supplied to the nearshore zone along the island. Several model simulations with varying combinations of horizontal and vertical tide, wind and wave forcing were designed to investigate the effect of each individual forcing on a large spatio-temporal scale (order of kilometres and months, respectively). As expected, stirring and transport by waves and wave-induced currents are predicted to be by far the dominant contributor to the net sediment transport along the coast of Terschelling. Because of the strong obliquity of the winds and the relatively small tidal currents in front of the island (≈ 0.5 m/s), alongshore wind-driven currents increase sediment transport rates and horizontal tides virtually have no net transport capacity. This motivated a local model of the study area along the closed coast of Terschelling, not including tidal inlets and further simplifying tidal boundary definitions by omitting the horizontal tides: morphodynamic simulations of the local model show virtually identical results as the larger model predictions. The reduction in complexity in setting up a local model instead of a regional model coupled with the corresponding significant reduction in computational time points to an increasing applicability of complex process-based models.     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Multigrain sedimentation/erosion model based on cross-shore equilibrium sediment distribution: Application to nourishment design

In the light of global warming and sea level rise there are many coastal beaches that suffer from erosion. Beach nourishment has become a common practice to maintain the sediment balance on a shore-face. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical model for evaluating long-term impact of beach nourishment projects has been developed. The model addresses the longstanding complex issue of coastal morphology and sediment grain size distribution from an unconventional angle, which exploits the strong links between grain size distribution and the prevailing transport direction of each sediment constituent under ‘average’ wave and storm action. The present model predicts the redistribution of nourished sediment according to the subtle clues implied by equilibrium distribution curves and latest coastal wave transformation theories. After verification against recent field observations in Terschelling, The Netherlands, the model was used to predict long-term effects of different beach nourishment strategies. It was found that: (a) given the source sediment available in Terschelling the tactics of large volume and less frequent implementation are better than otherwise; and (b) from a pure engineering point of view, waterline nourishment outperforms offshore trough nourishment.The model offers an additional tool for coastal engineers to evaluate the feasibility, effectiveness and the optimization of dumping locations for beach nourishment projects. It is also a useful tool for stratigraphic modelling of shallow-marine sedimentation in conjunction with sea level changes.     

Effects of shoreline and bedrock irregularities on the morphodynamics of the Alexandria coast littoral cell,Egypt

Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*10⁶ m³) has increased slightly by 0.041*10⁶ m³ year^–1 as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge.