Wave interaction with ‘’-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, and coefficient of reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. K_t values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.     

Subtropical coccolithophores in the Weddell Sea

Eleven subtropical coccolithophore species were identified in three samples taken in the austral autumn from the Weddell Sea, Antarctic, between 69°S and 70°S, just south of the Antarctic Slope Front. This is the first report of coccolithophores present at such southern latitudes. We provide three hypotheses for their occurrence in the Weddell Sea: (1) Coccolithophore species have wider temperature tolerances than previously believed. (2) Coccolithophores found in the Weddell Sea were part of a remnant community from the Agulhas Current. (3) Coccolithophores were transported by a N–S eddy crossing the Brazil–Malvinas confluence region and then subsequently transported to the east by warm water eddies of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current to the study location. Further temperature tolerance experiments with coccolithophores are recommended.     

Tritium profiles in the Weddell Sea

Tritium data were collected between 1985 and 1987 on several cruises of the German research icebreaker “Polarstern” to the Weddell Sea. Maximum tritium concentrations in the surface waters are of the order of 200 mTU. The minimum values observed in the Weddell Sea Deep Water at about 1000 m depth are about 15–40 mTU. The bottom waters show tritium concentrations of about 70–100 mTU in the central gyre, increasing to about 120 mTU in the northwestern corner of the Weddell Sea. The overflowing Ice Shelf Water observed on the continental slope west of the Filchner Depression has tritium concentrations close to those of the surface waters, indicating rapid renewal of this water mass. The data reflect the rapid renewal of the bottom waters in the northwestern corner of the Weddell Sea and the mixing of bottom water from this boundary current into the bottom waters of the central Weddell Gyre.     

‘ Global Change ’ Impact of Inter-Annual Variation in Water Discharge as a Driving Factor to Dredging and Spoil Disposal in the River Rhine System and of Turbidity in the Wadden Sea

Between 1970 to 2000, the annual mean suspended matter (SPM) concentrations in the Vlie and Marsdiep tidal inlets of the Wadden Sea varied over five times. The present paper examines the possible relationship between SPM in the Wadden Sea and changing river Rhine discharges and dredging operations. The major short-term variations in annual mean SPM in part of the Wadden Sea appears to be a non-linear, exponential, function of river Rhine discharge and dredge spoil disposal (110 km to over 200 km from the area in front of the Dutch coast near the river Rhine outlet). Correlation coefficients (with SPM as the fixed and dredge disposal as the independent variable) ranged from R=0·8 (deep tidal inlet of Marsdiep) to R=0·2 (shallow inner area of Vlie) and weakened mainly as a function of distance to the disposal site. The best correlation with river discharge was for Marsdiep tidal inlet (r=0·45), indicating the superior effect of dredge disposal over river discharge-related processes. Taking the estimated regression equation as an explorative model, indicates that, without any disposal of dredge spoil, the expected SPM concentration levels in the tidal inlets of the Wadden Sea will be <15 g m⁻³ (comparable to the 1950s). The overall mean (and the highest mean) annual concentrations for the investigation period reached 42 (90) g m⁻³ at Marsdiep and 35 (75) g m⁻³ at Vlie. Assuming a 10% (220 m⁻³ s⁻¹) increase in river Rhine discharge over the next 50 years, and unchanged dredging policy and other circumstances, SPM concentrations would increase 5–15% for Marsdiep and Vlie. Compared with the calculated (12·4 g m⁻³ SPM in Marsdiep and 14·8 g m⁻³ SPM in Vlie) and measured (15 g m⁻³ SPM in Marsdiep) background SPM concentrations, the expected overall mean increase since 1950 is at least 250% of background. The natural variation in river Rhine discharge will cause further inter-annual variation. Changes in SPM concentrations, due to expected changes in wind climate, combined with river discharge are estimated to increase SPM concentrations 20% above the present situation. The possible implications of changes in land use in combination with further increasing river discharge, changed wind fields and increased temperature are discussed. An important management conclusion is that increasing mean river discharge will significantly increase the need for dredging and spoil disposal, and result in further elevated SPM concentrations in the Dutch coastal zone and the Wadden Sea. The presented relationships offer possibilities for developing new management strategies in relation to dredging and its effects.     

Historical storminess and climate ‘see-saws’ in the North Atlantic region

The existence of a well-defined climate ‘see-saw’ across the North Atlantic region and surrounding areas has been known for over 200 years. The occurrence of severe winters in western Greenland frequently coincides with mild winters in northern Europe. Conversely, mild winters in western Greenland are frequently associated with cold winters across northern Europe. Whereas this ‘see-saw’ is normally discussed in terms of air temperature and pressure differences, here we explore how the climate ‘see-saw’ is reflected in records of historic storminess from Scotland, NW Ireland and Iceland. It is concluded that the stormiest winters in these regions during the last ca. 150 years have occurred when western Greenland temperatures have been significantly below average. In contrast, winters of reduced storminess have coincided with winters when air temperatures have been significantly above average in western Greenland. This reconstruction of winter storminess implies a relationship between chronologies of coastal erosion and the history of North Atlantic climate ‘see-saw’ dynamics with sustained winter storminess, and hence increased coastal erosion, taking place when the Icelandic low pressure cell is strongly anchored within the circulation of the northern hemisphere. Considered over the last ca. 2000 years, it would appear that winter storminess and climate-driven coastal erosion was at a minimum during the Medieval Warm Period. By contrast, the time interval from ca. AD 1420 until present has been associated with sustained winter storminess across the North Atlantic that has resulted in accelerated coastal erosion and sand drift.     

Parameterization of vertical mixing in the Weddell Sea

A series of vertical mixing schemes implemented in a circumpolar coupled ice–ocean model of the BRIOS family is validated against observations of hydrography and sea ice coverage in the Weddell Sea. Assessed parameterizations include the Richardson number-dependent Pacanowski–Philander scheme, the Mellor–Yamada turbulent closure scheme, the K-profile parameterization, a bulk mixed layer model and the ocean penetrative plume scheme (OPPS). Combinations of the Pacanowski–Philander parameterization or the OPPS with a simple diagnostic model depending on the Monin–Obukhov length yield particularly good results. In contrast, experiments using a constant diffusivity and the traditional convective adjustment cannot reproduce the observations. An underestimation of wind-driven mixing in summer leads to an accumulation of salt in the winter water layer, inducing deep convection in the central Weddell Sea and a homogenization of the water column. Large upward heat fluxes in these simulations lead to the formation of unrealistic, large polynyas in the central Weddell Sea after only a few years of integration. Furthermore, spurious open-ocean convection affects the basin-scale circulation and leads to a significant overestimation of meridional overturning rates. We conclude that an adequate parameterization of both wind-induced mixing and buoyancy-driven convection is crucial for realistic simulations of processes in seasonally ice-covered seas.     

Iron in the water column of the Weddell Sea

Total, dissolved and suspended iron has been determined in the water column of the Weddell Sea area during the austral summer 1988–1989. Some data are also presented for dissolved manganese, suspended manganese and suspended aluminium. The average value for dissolved iron was found to be 1.2 nM, with somewhat higher values at the Filchner Ice Shelf. The total iron was found to be considerably higher, with a range between 1 and 6 nM in the central Weddell Sea and 1 and 25 nM at the shelves. Transport of iron from the shelves into the Weddell Sea basin is demonstrated. This is observed both for total and dissolved iron.     

Columbia Bay, Alaska: an ‘upside down’ estuary

Circulation and water properties within Columbia Bay, Alaska, are dominated by the effects of Columbia Glacier at the head of the Bay. The basin between the glacier terminus and the terminal moraine (sill depth of about 22 m) responds as an ‘upside down’ estuary with the subglacial discharge of freshwater entering at the bottom of the basin. The intense vertical mixing caused by the bouyant plume of freshwater creates a homogeneous water mass that exchanges with the far-field water through either a two- or a three-layer flow. In general, the glacier acts as a large heat sink and creates a water mass which is cooler than that in fjords without tidewater glaciers. The predicted retreat of Columbia Glacier would create a 40 km long fjord that has characteristics in common with other fjords in Prince William Sound.     

Topological redundancy and ‘small‐world’ patterns in a food web in a subtropical ecosystem of Brazil

According to graph theory, the frequency distribution of trophic interactions within a food web has deep structural implications, as it can highlight the presence of patterns associated with the web and indicate whether the properties of the web are independent of its size. A hypothesis is that ‘small‐world’ food webs are sensitive to the loss of species with the highest values. Therefore, the present work aimed to evaluate the degree to which a subtropical food web in Southern Brazil displays small‐world patterns and their resistance. As part of the assessment, we evaluated the topological redundancy values of species in the food web and then we simulated the exclusion of these species (such as sharks and sea birds), and also the exclusion of high centrality species (such as squids Loligo sp., portunid swimming crabs and the cutlassfish Trichiurus lepturus). The food web showed a ‘broad‐scale’ distribution of connections by node, and a small‐world pattern. As expected, a simplification of the network was observed after elimination of some species with high centrality. However, the food web was resistant to the loss of species with low topological redundancy, probably because these species occupy a high trophic level and do not participate in lots of routes within the food web. We highlight however, the importance of the application of multiple analyses to evaluate the importance of components in food webs, and fisheries management plans should consider both species of high centrality values and species with low topological redundancy.     

An improved ‘Battjes’ method for predicting the probability of extreme waves

The Battjes method for predicting the 50 or 100-year design wave was developed to allow for the possibility that the highest wave in a 50 or 100 year period may occur during the second highest storm or even in lower storms. It uses the probability distribution of individual waves. It is first shown that a slightly different logical approach removes some of the problems encountered with the use of the method. It is then shown that it actually uses a different definition of return period to that used by the classic method because if two or more waves in a severe storm exceed H₅₀, then these are counted as separate events. A formula is developed which considers each storm as one event, but still takes account of the possibility of the highest wave in 50 years not coming from the most severe storm. Computation using this formula shows that it reduces H₅₀ by about 3% relative to the Battjes method.     

Improved Seismic Stratigraphy of the Mesozoic Weddell Sea

We present a compilation of more than 45,000 km of multichannel seismic data acquired in the last three decades in the Weddell Sea. In accordance with recent tectonic models and available drillhole information, a consistent stratigraphic model for depositional units W1–W5 is set up. In conjunction with existing aeromagnetic data, a chronostratigraphic timetable is compiled and units W1.5, W2 and W3 are tentatively dated to have ages of between 136 Ma and 114 Ma. The age of W3 is not well constrained, but might be younger than 114 Ma. The data indicate that the thickest sediments are present in the western and southern Weddell Sea. These areas formed the earliest basins in the Weddell Sea and so the distribution of Mesozoic sediments is in accordance with the tectonic development of the ocean basin. In terms of Cenozoic glacial sediments, the largest depocenters are situated in front of the Filchner–Ronne Shelf, i.e. at the Crary Fan, with a thickness of up to 3 km.     

Episodic Cenozoic tectonism and the development of the NW European ‘passive’ continental margin

The North Atlantic margins are archetypally passive, yet they have experienced post-rift vertical movements of up to kilometre scale. The Cenozoic history of such movements along the NW European margin, from Ireland to mid-Norway, is examined by integrating published analyses of uplift and subsidence with higher resolution tectono-stratigraphic indicators of relative movements (including results from the STRATAGEM project). Three episodes of epeirogenic movement are identified, in the early, mid- and late Cenozoic, distinct from at least one phase of compressive tectonism. Two forms of epeirogenic movement are recognised, referred to as tilting (coeval subsidence and uplift, rotations <1° over distances of 100s of Kilometres) and sagging (strongly differential subsidence, rotations up to 4° over distances <100 km). Each epeirogenic episode involved relatively rapid (<10 Ma) km-scale tectonic movements that drove major changes in patterns of sedimentation to find expression in regional unconformity-bounded stratigraphic units. Early Cenozoic tilting (late Paleocene to early Eocene, c. 60–50 Ma) caused the basinward progradation of shelf-slope wedges from elongate uplifts along the inner continental margin and from offshore highs. Mid-Cenozoic sagging (late Eocene to early Oligocene, c. 35–25 Ma) ended wedge progradation and caused the onset of contourite deposition in deep-water basins. Late Cenozoic tilting (early Pliocene to present, <4±0.5 Ma) again caused the basinward progradation of shelf-slope wedges, from uplifts along the inner margin (including broad dome-like features) and from offshore highs. The early, mid- and late Cenozoic epeirogenic episodes coincided with Atlantic plate reorganisations, but the observed km-scale tectonic movements are too large to be accounted for as flexural deflections due to intra-plate stress variations. Mantle–lithosphere interactions are implied, but the succession of epeirogenic episodes, of differing form, are difficult to reconcile with the various syn-to post-rift mechanisms of permanent and/or transient movements proposed in the hypothetical context of a plume beneath Iceland. The epeirogenic movements can be explained as dynamic topographic responses to changing forms of small-scale convective flow in the upper mantle: tilting as coeval upwelling and downwelling above an edge-driven convection cell, sagging as a loss of dynamic support above a former upwelling. The inferred Cenozoic succession of epeirogenic tilting, sagging and tilting is proposed to record the episodic evolution of upper mantle convection during ocean opening, a process that may also be the underlying cause of plate reorganisations. The postulated episodes of flow reorganisation in the NE Atlantic region have testable implications for epeirogenic movements along the adjacent oceanic spreading ridge and conjugate continental margin, as well as on other Atlantic-type ‘passive’ margins.     

Anomalous Cenozoic subsidence along the ‘passive’ continental margin from Ireland to mid-Norway

Two-dimensional flexural backstripping and thermal modelling (assuming uniform stretching and cooling) is applied to four interpreted, depth-converted seismic profiles across the Rockall, Faroe–Shetland and Vøring basins, along 1600 km of the Atlantic continental margin of NW Europe. The results reveal a significant discrepancy between the modelled palaeo-depths for the base of the Cenozoic succession and those proven by geological evidence at control points (subaerial conditions or depositional depth ranges in wells). The discrepancy is of Rm-scale, much larger than the possible range of parameter error determined by sensitivity tests (up to 0.5 km). Assuming a Cretaceous rift episode (100 Ma), the discrepancy is at least 1.7 km in the Rockall Basin, up to 2.1 km in the Faroe–Shetland Basin and at least 1 km in the Vøring Basin (which also contains evidence of kilometre-scale uplift of the inner margin). Assuming (unproven) a second rift in the early Cenozoic (60 Ma), the discrepancy remains of kilometre-scale in the Rockall and Faroe–Shetland basins. The restorations also provide evidence of uplift, both above compressive structures and across the modelled profiles as seaward rotations of palaeo-bathymetric records. The palaeo-bathymetric discrepancy corresponds to an anomaly in subsidence that is the cumulative product of all the tectonic episodes that have affected the NW European margin, and may incorporate both permanent effects of the last episode of lithospheric extension and transient responses to the interaction of the margin with mantle convective flow. Any explanation must accommodate both the large magnitude of anomalous subsidence along the margin and evidence of its episodic character.     

An estimate of water mass transformation in the southern Weddell Sea

Bottom water formation changes the characteristics of water masses entering the southern part of the Weddell Sea through atmosphere-ice-ocean interaction in which both sea and shelf ice play an important role. Modified water, in particular Weddell Sea Bottom Water, recirculates in the west. By comparing the in- and outflowing water masses we have estimated transformation rates on the basis of a data set obtained during the Winter Weddell Gyre Study from September to October 1989. This consisted of a salinity-temperature-depth (CTD) section carried out by R/V “Polarstern” from the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula to Kapp Norvegia and data from three current meter moorings maintained from 1989 to 1990 in the eastern boundary current off Kapp Norvegia. Because of the lack of sufficient direct current measurements in the interior and the western boundary current, it was necessary to derive mass transports on the basis of available data combined with physical and geometrical arguments. At the mooring site barotropic currents were measured. They were extrapolated to the interior under the assumption that wind-driven, baroclinic and barotropic current fields are of similar shape. The location of the gyre centre was determined from drifting buoy tracks and geopoten-tial anomaly. A linear current profile from the eastern boundary current to the centre of the gyre was assumed, and the western outflow was determined according to mass conservation. Different assumptions on the transition from the boundary current to the interior and the location of the centre result in a wide range of transports with most likely values between 20 and 56 Sv. The total mass transport was split into individual water masses. Differences between inflow and outflow result in a transformation rate of 3–4 Sv from Winter and Warm Deep Water to Antarctic and Weddell Sea Bottom Water. The net heat and salt transport across the transect implies heat fluxes from the ocean to the atmosphere of 3–10 W m⁻² and ice formation rates of 0.2–0.35 m year⁻¹.     

A geomorphological seabed classification for the Weddell Sea,Antarctica

Sea floor morphology plays an important role in many scientific disciplines such as ecology, hydrology and sedimentology since geomorphic features can act as physical controls for e.g. species distribution, oceanographically flow-path estimations or sedimentation processes. In this study, we provide a terrain analysis of the Weddell Sea based on the 500 m × 500 m resolution bathymetry data provided by the mapping project IBCSO. Seventeen seabed classes are recognized at the sea floor based on a fine and broad scale Benthic Positioning Index calculation highlighting the diversity of the glacially carved shelf. Beside the morphology, slope, aspect, terrain rugosity and hillshade were calculated and supplied to the data archive PANGAEA. Applying zonal statistics to the geomorphic features identified unambiguously the shelf edge of the Weddell Sea with a width of 45–70 km and a mean depth of about 1200 m ranging from 270 m to 4300 m. A complex morphology of troughs, flat ridges, pinnacles, steep slopes, seamounts, outcrops, and narrow ridges, structures with approx. 5–7 km width, build an approx. 40–70 km long swath along the shelf edge. The study shows where scarps and depressions control the connection between shelf and abyssal and where high and low declination within the scarps e.g. occur. For evaluation purpose, 428 grain size samples were added to the seabed class map. The mean values of mud, sand and gravel of those samples falling into a single seabed class was calculated, respectively, and assigned to a sediment texture class according to a common sediment classification scheme.     

Distribution of chlorophyll a and diatom in the sea ice of the Weddell Sea, Antarctica

Diatoms are major primary producers of microbial biomass in the Antarctica. They are found in the water and sea ice. The distribution, abundance of the ice diatoms and their relation to the environmental factors inside and outside the ice have been studied for its special role in the Antarctic Ocean ecology. In this paper we describe the abundance, distribution and composition of diatom assemblages in     

Perceived concerns and possible management strategies for governing ‘wind farm–mariculture integration’

In offshore waters of the German North Sea multiple stakeholder activity is increasing in both type and intensity. Newcomers such as wind farms make for additional claims and exclude, due to current legal constraints, other sectors, such as traditional fisheries. In this context, integrating marine aquaculture with designated wind farm areas might provide chances to combine two industries in the frame of a multiple-use concept. This paper takes up concerns and possible management framework requirements as expressed through interviews with the wind farm industry and the mussel harvesting sector when inquiring about such a multiple-use setting. The article closes with a discussion on two co-management strategies that might be appropriate for governing potential interacting wind farm–mariculture activities.     

Mesoscale Variability of the Ocean in the Northern Part of the Weddell Sea

Oceanology - Results of a mesoscale survey in the Powell Basin in the northern part of the Weddell Sea are analyzed. The survey included 24 CTD casts (6 × 4) with an interval of six nautical...