山东半岛砂质海滩动力地貌演化特征

为探讨山东半岛砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,利用波浪和潮汐资料计算了山东半岛浪潮作用指数K和波浪-沉积物参数(Dean参数(Ω)),并进行了地貌类型划分;结合2012~2015年对山东半岛不同地理岸段砂质海岸地形地貌、表层沉积物进行的7次监测,对海滩监测剖面地形高程和表层沉积物粒度监测数据进行了研究,结果表明:山东半岛北部烟台多处海滩为消散型,局部过渡性;威海东侧和山东半岛南部海滩属于过渡型或反射型;不同类型沙滩季节变化差别明显,消散型海滩夏季容易形成沿岸沙坝,冬季海滩沙坝明显受到侵蚀;而过渡型或反射型海滩变化趋势相反,冬季靠近高潮线的部位淤积,形成滩肩,夏季受到侵蚀消失。山东半岛北部海滩粒径较粗,并呈现逐年变粗的趋势,而山东半岛南部粒径较细且逐年变细;季节变化受到波浪条件和季节差异的控制,招远、龙口、威海、日照地区较牟平、海阳、青岛等平直岸段冬季沉积物比夏季粗。山东半岛砂质海滩的地貌形态受海岸的地理位置、海洋动力条件、岸线走向及沙源供给等多种沉积环境因素的影响,人类活动的影响可在短期内对海滩造成剧烈变化,引起海岸严重侵蚀。     

卷破波作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别式初探

通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。     

波浪作用下级配泥沙海滩滩面变化试验研究

砂质海滩的泥沙具有一定的级配,在波浪作用下,滩面泥沙粒径将发生分选,引起海滩质量变化。在水槽中用不同波高和周期的波浪分别对不同级配的沙滩进行作用,探究滩面在波浪外动力作用下的变化规律。结果表明：全级配沙滩在相同波高波浪作用下形成的沙坝型海滩滩型中,破波点向海的区域表层泥沙分选会随波浪周期增大变差;相同周期(T=1.68s)波浪作用下,全级配沙滩在大波高(H=13.2cm)和小波高(H=6.7cm)的波浪作用下分别形成沙坝型和滩肩型海滩,滩面泥沙分选变好;原始沙滩级配与滩面泥沙变化密切相关,同种波浪动力作用下,中细、粗中沙滩沙坝表层泥沙迎波面粗于背波面,粗细沙滩粗颗粒集中在沙坝和滩顶之间。     

1986–2019年粤东企望湾砂质海岸线演变过程与驱动机制研究

本文采用1986–2019年113景Landsat影像提取高潮线,辅以2015–2019年实测剖面数据,开展了海湾尺度上海岸线的中长期演变过程与驱动机制研究。结果表明：企望湾以中间小型基岩岬角为界划分出的西侧海滩和东侧海滩分别具备4种和3种不同的空间特征;超过一半的区域其海岸线演变表现为非线性行为;Mann-Kendall趋势检验和显著性分析方法较好地解决了已有研究中对研究时段划分缺乏依据的问题;近5年的实测剖面数据也验证了企望湾近期显著的淤积和侵蚀现象。进一步研究表明,自西向东的沿岸输沙过程是近期海岸线演变主要的驱动机制,东侧防波堤因为改变了控制性“岬角”的位置,造成了海湾平面形态不平衡,而中间小型基岩岬角也影响了企望湾侵蚀和淤积的空间差异性。研究结果对于预测未来岸线位置和控制岸线侵蚀风险具有重要的理论和现实意义。     

企望湾砂质海滩剖面冲淤幅度的估算

以海滩沉积地貌现场观测资料为基础 ,通过海滩剖面形态组合 ,历史地形资料比较和特征地貌形态变化理论计算分析 ,对汕头南部企望湾弧形砂质海岸切线段的海滩剖面冲淤幅度进行了估算。结果表明 ,该海滩剖面冲淤幅度具有区段变化 ,低潮阶地和槽谷部位约 1 .5～ 2 .0m,滩肩和水下沙坝部位可达 3 .0 m。近 3 0年来 ,海滩剖面总体上趋于微冲刷 ,平均冲刷强度约为 1～ 2 cm/a,可能与近期人工挖砂有关。     

The formation of offshore ripples in the zone under irregular waves

In this article, results obtained from an experimental investigation conducted to determine the wave-induced geometric characteristics of offshore ripples and bars are presented. The experiments were performed using irregular waves. Natural beach sand was used in the study, where the mean diameter was 0.35 mm and the specific gravity was 2.63. The initial slope of the beach was 1:5. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and a number of characteristics were determined. These include the ripple number, individual and average ripple heights, individual and average ripple lengths and the length of the offshore bar. The results of the experimental study were evaluated and empirical expressions based on the results were formulated.     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙作用研究进展

海滩养护已经成为全球基于自然(nature-based)海岸防护的主要手段,并得到广泛应用。随着全球强风区海岸海滩养护工程数量的增加,海滩养护对海岸风沙过程产生的一系列影响逐渐得到重视。海滩养护工程形成了新的海滩地貌形态,扩大了海滩风区、增加了风沙物源、提高了滩面高程、改变了滩面沉积物,海滩地貌和沉积物组分变化引起了风沙运动过程的变化,与自然海滩风沙过程相比,有其独特的过程和特征,已经成为海岸风沙研究的热点之一。本文从海滩养护影响下的风沙环境变化、风沙活动变化以及养护海滩对沙丘的影响等3个方面梳理了国内外研究进展,提出养护海滩风沙研究存在区域不平衡以及风沙过程的综合性影响和定量化研究不足等问题,并结合我国海滩养护未来的发展趋势,从强风区养护海滩风沙运动规律、养护海滩风沙环境全要素的综合影响和风沙作用变化的模型评估等方面展望了我国养护海滩风沙研究的未来发展方向。     

潜堤后高阶自由谐波的研究

基于高阶边界元方法的完全非线性数值水槽模型模拟潜堤地形上波浪的传播变形,通过与实验值进行比较,考察数学模型的正确性.采用两点法分离得到堤后高倍频自由波来研究入射波参数、水深对堤后高倍频自由波的影响.研究发现:基频波、二阶和三阶自由波幅值分别与入射波波幅成线性、二次和三次函数关系,基频波幅值基本不随波浪周期变化,而二阶和...     

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.     

烟台套子湾海滩泥沙运动方向研究

采用筛析法分析了套子湾中滩面上66个表层样品的粒度。结果表明:套子湾海滩沉积物为中、细砂,为典型海滩砂。标准偏差较小,分选较好至好;频率曲线呈近正态分布,稍呈负偏;峰度中等至较窄。平均粒径和标准偏差由夹河口向东西两侧海滩变小,由于突堤的阻挡,海滩沿岸沉积物在突堤东侧产生堆积,西侧侵蚀。粒度特征和海滩地貌变化显示:套子湾海滩沉积物是由夹河口向东西两侧发生沿岸运移。为烟台开发区海水浴场的海滩养护以及芝罘岛连岛沙坝海岸的合理利用提供科学依据。     

射阳港拦门沙航道整治工程建设前后水沙特征分析

为研究工程区海域水沙特征的时空分布、运动规律,采用不同时期的现场水文泥沙资料,对射阳港拦门沙航道工程建设前后的水流、含沙量、悬沙粒径和底质特征进行了对比分析。研究表明:射阳港一期航道工程建设后航道内潮波发生变形,涨潮流速大、历时短;落潮流速小、历时长,进入到航道内泥沙很难被带出航道,容易导致航道淤积。工程区海域整体含沙量较大,一期工程建设后导堤内涨潮含沙量明显增大,口门净输沙向口内,通过口门进入到航道的高含沙水体是航道淤积的重要沙源之一。导堤间边滩表层存在部分淤泥,且具有一定流动性,在水流及自身重力作用下,边滩淤泥可归入航道内。     

Forcing of large-scale cycles of coastal change at the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington

Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater.Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary.     

Number of tracers required for the measurement of longshore transport distance on a shingle beach

The aim of this study was to identify a method for determining the number of tracer particles required to define the mean longshore transport distance of indigenous littoral shingle with a particular level of precision. A method is presented which can be applied to existing tracer data to determine both the precision of the measurements collected and the number of tracers required to achieve a particular level of precision. The method, which utilises well established statistical relationships, is demonstrated by applying it to archive tracer data. The study demonstrates the sensitivity of the number of tracers to the variance of the transport distances of indigenous particles at the site and the precision with which the investigator wishes to define the mean. It is anticipated that application of the method by other practitioners, in the future, will allow a dataset to develop which can be used alongside the method presented here to allow the number of tracers required for a study to be estimated prior to entering the field. Results are presented to initiate the development of this dataset and a “look-up chart” derived using the method is given to aid its application.     

图解法和矩值法粒度参数的定性对比：以琼州海峡岸滩表层沉积物为例

前人已开展了大量的关于图解法和矩值法数值结果的相关性分析和相互转换方程的确定工作,但针对定性结果的对比仍较为罕见。本文选取了琼州海峡两岸15个海滩22条断面105个表层沉积物为典型研究对象,分别采用Folk和Ward图解法和Friedman矩值法获取粒度参数结果,构建定量结果的回归关系和对比定性结果的异同。结合前人的研究成果,本文进一步探讨了两种方法结果的可对比性,并分析两种方法的方法差异对沉积物粒度信息提取及使用造成的可能影响。研究结果表明：（1）就定量结果而言,图解法和矩值法计算的平均粒径和分选系数具有强相关性（R² ≥ 0.951）,而偏态和峰态则表现为中等相关（R² = 0.586）和不相关（R² = 0.011）,表明图解法和矩值法计算粒度参数定量结果之间的相关性并不稳定,这与前人的研究结果基本一致;（2）就定性结果而言,图解法和矩值法的结果之间存在较大偏差,分选系数、偏态和峰态不一致的占比分别达30.48%、55.24%和71.43%,这与定量结果的相关性存在一定程度的偏差,表明定量结果的相关性程度并不能完全用于指示定性术语结果的一致性程度。鉴于最大化地揭示沉积物的差异是粒度参数分析方法追寻的目标,在选择何种方法计算粒度参数时需充分考虑沉积物粒径概率分布曲线的特征。本文提供了一个以海滩沉积物为研究对象的图解法和矩值法粒度参数结果对比的典型案例,研究结果有助于提升对粒度参数分析方法的差异、原因和科学使用等方面的认识。     

Environmental niche of the smut lizard population on a sandy coastal ecosystem of Southeastern Tenerife (Canary Islands)

Relationships among environmental patterns and population size of the smut lizard Gallotia galloti galloti Oudart, 1839 (Sauria Lacertidae) were examined in the context of longer time-scale variability on a sandy beach and adjacent environments of Southeastern Tenerife. Seasonal and yearly patterns in the population size were likewise analyzed in relation to climatic and anthropic variables. Six sampling plots (coastal, sweet tabaiba, tuff, lava, sandy lava and crater) were selected following a perpendicular transect to the sandy fringe that extends from the beach toward the volcanic interior. Pitfall trapping was conducted from 1984 to 2005, and capture–mark–recapture technique and the Jolly–Seber method were used to estimate population sizes. The highest population size estimates were shown on the sandy lava plot and the neighboring lava plot, reaching values of about 3500 individuals ha⁻¹ during the spring. The population was active almost the whole year, with seasonal patterns of activity from March to October. Seasonal temperature and population size patterns were correlated but the 'calima' episodes produced some disturbance. Gallotia galloti galloti was one of the most abundant lizards of all the species studied and its population size has not remained stable over the study period, probably because of the absence of predation and competition, and because of human interference and environmental instability.     

海底输油管道底砂床冲刷机理研究

设计了海底输油管道水槽冲刷试验模型,研究了海底输油管道与砂床处于不同相对位置情况下床砂起动流速的变化,采用理想流体映射定理对其进行了理论分析,探讨起动流速变化规律。结合有限元数值模拟对试验进行细化分析,研究了海底管道底砂床砂粒起动的产生机理,根据研究结果将冲刷过程划分为五个阶段。阐明了海底管道暴露冲刷的危害性和实时监测的重要性。     

珠江口黄茅海拦门沙演变及成因分析

采用1977,1994,2003,2010年4个年份的地形图,建立了DEM模型,结合二维水动力模型对近30多年来黄茅海拦门沙演变的特征及成因进行了分析。研究表明近30多年来黄茅海拦门沙平面上向海推移,范围缩小,在内坡和拦门沙顶冲刷,在外坡淤积;拦门沙的基本成因是其位于上溯流与下泄流控制区域之间的过渡带,该过渡带为明显的动力较弱的区域,泥沙较易在此处沉积;黄茅海大面积的围垦导致纳潮量减少、潮汐动力减弱、径流作用相对增强,使下泄流控制区扩大、上溯流控制区减小、过渡区下移,这是拦门沙冲刷外移和缩小的主要原因。上游来沙量减少加剧了拦门沙冲刷外移和缩小。     

福建岬湾岸型沙质海滩对台风的响应特征

对福建沿岸岬湾岸型沙质海滩的蚀淤变化分析,结果表明:在0418号台风"艾利"袭击下,台风移动路径左侧的两个海滩表现为侵蚀,滩肩蚀低,滨线向陆移动,其中岩下村海滩比卒子村海滩的侵蚀严重,岩下村海滩侵蚀集中在后滨和高潮带,卒子村海滩侵蚀集中在中、低潮带;台风移动路径右侧的衙口村海滩相对比较稳定,仅中潮带出现弱淤积,后滨向陆侧人工堆积沙丘遭受侵蚀.     

现代黄河三角洲沿岸泥沙运移与岸滩侵蚀态势研究

现代黄河三角洲的泥沙运移是河-海动力相互作用下的泥沙分配和再分配结果。现行水口门区岸滩和水下岸坡仍以不大的速率向海淤进,三角洲西段和南段沿岸基本处于动态平衡状态,三角洲中段广大岸段大都处于不同程度的冲刷蚀退态势。冲刷蚀退已严重地恶化了黄河现代三角洲的发育功能和三角洲经济开发环境,对油田的滩海工程和海上设施造成了严重威胁。     

海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理实验研究

通过大尺度水槽波浪引起泥沙悬移的动床模型实验,研究了沙坝海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理,通过比较时间平均水底悬沙浓度与时间平均水底波浪水质点动能或时间平均水底湍动能之间的相关性,论证了利用时间平均湍动能比利用时间平均波浪水质点动能计算时间平均水底悬沙浓度更为适用,并提出了以上时间平均水底悬沙浓度与水底湍动能之间的关系也可以用来近似表达时间变化的水底悬沙浓度与时间变化的水底湍动能之间的关系。研究针对规则波、波群和不规则波3种波浪形态进行,并分别对破波带内的爬坡区、内破波区和沙坝区3个区域实验结果进行讨论。