运用SWAN数值模拟对渤海波浪极值参数的研究(英文)

本文以高分辨率后报风场资料为输入,采用SWAN波浪模式,模拟了渤海海域1985年至2004年共20年间的波浪场。通过有效波高数据的比较,可看出波浪数值结果与实测资料符合较好,可以用数值结果分析渤海海域的波浪特征。利用计算的年极值波要素,本文给出并分析了渤海海域不同重现期下的极值参数分布情况。     

1988-2002年黄海和渤海风浪后报

本文对黄海和渤海风浪开展长期后报实验,时间范围覆盖1988至2002年,并分析相应的区域波候特征。首先,模式输出的月平均有效波高和卫星数据比对一致。其次,我们讨论了气候态月平均有效波高和平均波周期的时空分布特征。有效波高和平均波周期的气候态空间分布都呈现出西北-东南、或由近岸向深水区增加的趋势,这种空间的分布特征和局地的风强迫和水深密切相关。同时,海浪参数的季节变化也较显著。进一步,我们统计分析了风场和有效波高的极值,给出并揭示了黄海和渤海多年一遇有效波高的空间结构,并讨论了有效波高极值和风强迫极值之间的联系。     

Prediction of Extreme Significant Wave Height from Daily Maxima

For prediction of the extreme significant wave height in the ocean areas where long term wave data are not available, the empirical method of extrapolating short term data (1-3 years) is used in design practice. In this paper two methods are proposed to predict extreme significant wave height based on short-term daily maxima. According to the da-a recorded by the Oceanographic Station of Liaodong Bay at the Bohai Sea, it is supposed that daily maximum wave heights are statistically independent. The data show that daily maximum wave heights obey log-normal distribution, and that the numbers of daily maxima vary from year to year, obeying binomial distribution. Based on these statistical characteristics, the binomial-log-normal compound extremum distribution is derived for prediction of extreme significant wave heights (50-100 years). For examination of its accuracy and validity, the prediction of extreme wave heights is based on 12 years' data at this station, and based on each 3 years' data respectively     

近40年中国近海波浪数据库的建立及极值分析

采用TOMAWAC模型模拟近岸40年的波浪要素。波谱计算采用36个方向,模拟波周期范围为1.5～29 s,并对极值波况进行分析。统计了1979—2018年间有效波高的年极值,算得百年一遇的有效波高,发现百年一遇波高由北往南总体呈现增大趋势:渤海和黄海的百年一遇的波高不超过10 m;东海百年一遇的波高在15～22 m之间;南海北部百年一遇波高的范围比较大,靠近台湾部分最大达到了22 m,海南岛西部较小,在10～15 m之间。引用SET值相关指标对极端波浪的发生次数、持续时间和强度进行分析,发现渤海、黄海北部、台湾海峡以及南海西北部极端事件频繁发生,平均每年有5～7次,台湾岛西南部极端事件的平均历时最大,达到了32 h。     

渤海重现期波高的数值计算

利用RAMS大气模式给出的20年风场资料,利用SWAN近海波浪模式对渤海海域的波浪进行了20 a数值计算.通过与一般过程和大风过程的实测资料的对比后发现.波浪模拟值与实潮值符合地较好,SWAN模式适合渤海海域波浪的计算。通过分析发现.辽东湾常浪向为SSW。强浪向为SSW;渤海中部常浪向为S,强浪向为NE;渤海海峡常浪向为NNW,强浪向为NNW;莱州湾常浪向为S,强浪向为NNE;渤海湾常浪向为S.强浪向为NE。渤中偏东南海域(38°～39°N,119.5°～120.5°E)多年一遇有效波高最大.其中百年一遇有效波高最大值达到6.7m。     

Estimation of mean and extreme waves in the East China Seas

Accurately estimating the mean and extreme wave statistics and better understanding their directional and seasonal variations are of great importance in the planning and designing of ocean and coastal engineering works. Due to the lack of long-term wave measurement data, the analysis of extreme waves is often based on the numerical wave hind-casting results. In this study, the wave climate in the East China Seas (including the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea) for the past 35 years (1979–2013) is hind-casted using a third generation wave model – WAMC4 (Cycle 4 version of WAM model). Two sets of reanalysis wind data from NCEP (National Centers for Environmental Prediction, USA) and ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts) are used to drive the wave model to generate the long-term wave climate. The hind-casted waves are then analysed to study the mean and extreme wave statistics in the study area. The results show that the mean wave heights decrease from south to north and from sea to land in general. The extreme wave heights with return periods of 50 and 100 years in the summer and autumn seasons are significantly higher than those in the other two seasons, mainly due to the effect of typhoon events. The mean wave heights in the winter season have the highest values, mainly due to the effect of winter monsoon winds. The comparison of extreme wave statistics from both wind fields with the field measurements at several nearshore wave observation stations shows that the extreme waves generated by the ECMWF winds are better than those generated by the NCEP winds. The comparison also shows the extreme waves in deep waters are better reproduced than those in shallow waters, which is partly attributed to the limitations of the wave model used. The results presented in this paper provide useful insight into the wave climate in the area of the East China Seas, as well as the effect of wind data resolution on the simulation of long-term waves.     

推算波浪多年一遇波高的新方法

采用卫星遥感推算多年一遇波高的新方法，对中国近海多年一遇波高进行推算研究。运用卫星遥感散射计得到的风资料推算了整个渤海区域波浪多年一遇的波高分布。通过与有实测资料4个点推算的结果比较表明：卫星资料和实测计算的误差随着重现期的增大而减小，最大误差百年和50年一遇波高为20cm；而百年和50年一遇波高正是工程中最为关心的，说明运用卫星遥感散射计风资料推算渤海多年一遇波高可行且结果合理。本研究方法为进一步运用和完善卫星遥感资料推算中国近海多年一波高场提供了一条新途径。     

基于浮标资料的中国东部海域最大波高特征分析

利用原国家海洋局2010—2015年的浮标资料,计算渤、黄、东海有效波高和最大波高的线性关系,并通过1992—2011年共20 a的数值模拟有效波高资料计算中国东部海域各月的2.5 m、4 m、6 m以上最大波高频率和最大波高月极值分布。结果发现:中国东部海域由北至南,最大波高与有效波高的比值逐渐增大;最大波高频率和最大波高月极值空间分布均由渤海、黄海至东海逐渐增大,最大波高频率的极值12月最大,4或5月最小,最大波高月极值9月最大,4月最小。其时空分布表明:受不同天气系统影响,夏秋季台风较多,容易出现极值较大的最大波高;秋冬季冷空气较强,虽然最大波高极值相对较小,但大浪持续时间长、频率大、影响范围广。     

Long-term variation of storm surge-associated waves in the Bohai Sea

When investigating the long-term variation of wave characteristics as associated with storm surges in the Bohai Sea,the Simulating Waves Nearshore(SWAN)model and Advanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC)model were coupled to simulate 32 storm surges between 1985 and 2014.This simulation was validated by reproducing three actual wave processes,showing that the simulated significant wave height(SWH)and mean wave period agreed well with the actual measurements.In addition,the long-term variations in SWH,pattems in SWH extremes along the Bohai Sea coast,the 100-year retum period SWH extreme distribution,and waves conditional probability distribution were calculated and analyzed.We find that the trend of SWH extremes in most of the coastal stations was negative,among which the largest trend was-0.03 m/a in the western part of Liaodong Bay.From the 100-year return period of the SWH distribution calculated in the Gumbel method,we find that the SWH extremes associated with storm surges decreased gradually from the center of the Bohai Sea to the coast.In addition,the joint probability of wave and surge for the entire Bohai Sea in 100-year return period was determined by the Gumbel logistic method.We therefore,assuming a minimum surge of one meter across the entire Bohai Sea,obtained the spatial SWH distribution.The conclusions of this study are significant for offshore and coastal engineering design.     

围填海工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响

为了深入了解围填海工程对波浪场特别是风浪场的影响,针对10 a 围填海工程对渤海湾地形岸线的改变,将 SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)海浪数值模式应用到渤海湾,讨论了人类大工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响.采用欧洲气象中心每天4次的风场资料作为驱动,模拟渤海湾2000年和2010年的风浪场,着重分析岸线变化显著的3个港口工程(曹妃甸、天津港和黄骅港)附近海域的波浪要素变化.研究结果表明,工程建筑物存在后,有效波高呈减小趋势,港池和潮汐通道内的有效波高减小幅度较大.港口地理位置和海底地形也与岸线变化共同影响着港口附近海域的波浪场分布.围填海工程对波浪有效波高及周期影响的程度不大,有效波高减小值在0.2 m 以下,周期几乎不变.     

欧洲北海海域波高区间分布概率研究

为了研究欧洲北海海域的波高全区域概率分布情况,从而为海洋平台等海洋浮式结构物的选址和结构设计提供依据。首先基于Global Waves Statistics(GWS)提供的实测数据,确定典型计算工况的发生概率;同时考虑实测数据中极端波浪环境下的数据缺失导致大波高分布概率偏小的问题,利用三参数Weibull分布确定不同重现期下的极值风速,作为典型计算工况的补充。以不同风速、风向的定常风场为输入项,利用第三代海浪数值模型SWAN模型,对北海全区域波高进行数值模拟。将数值模拟的稳态形式依照各工况的发生概率进行归一化累加处理,认为其结果可以表征全区域的波高概率分布情况。以波高概率分布的计算结果为依据,分析北海海域波浪环境的统计学特征,发现有效波高为7 m以上的大波高频发区在北海北部区域有大范围分布;有效波高4～5 m为北海东北区域的多发海况,极端海况下的有效波高主要分布于7～14 m区间,在地形突变区域的波高发生显著变化。     

1982–2019年渤、黄海海洋热浪时空变化特征分析

基于1982–2019年美国国家海洋和大气管理局最优插值海表温度资料,运用多种统计方法分析了渤、黄海海洋热浪（频次、持续时间、强度）的时空分布特征及与之相关的环流背景。结果表明:（1）海洋热浪具有一定的区域性差异,更强、更持久和更多的海洋热浪多集中在渤海和北黄海海区;（2）近38年来,渤、黄海海洋热浪变化趋势也具有明显的区域性差异,频次、年平均持续时间、年平均平均强度和最大强度总体呈增多、增强趋势,但朝鲜半岛沿岸海域没有显著变化,这与该地区的平均海温变化密切相关;（3）根据日平均海表面温度将海洋热浪分为中等、强、严重和极端4种等级,结果表明,除极端海洋热浪外,其他3种不同等级海洋热浪发生频次和增长趋势均存在显著的地理差异,中等强度海洋热浪在渤、黄海所有区域均频次偏多且有显著的增加趋势,而强和严重海洋热浪主要集中在我国的渤海海域,但渤、黄海区域极端海洋热浪几乎没有发生;（4）就渤、黄海区域平均而言,38年间,共发生83次海洋热浪,平均每年2.2次;海洋热浪具有明显的季节差异,不同等级强度的海洋热浪的多发季节均在夏季;（5）合成分析结果表明,夏季渤、黄海海洋热浪与大气环流密切相关,当从高层到低层贝加尔湖区域上空表现为大范围的相当正压结构的暖性高压异常时,盛行的下沉运动和高空西北气流,带来了晴朗的天气和更多的地面净太阳短波辐射,有利于渤、黄海海洋热浪的形成和维持。     

Estimation of Design Wave Heights for Coastal Sea Areas

Based on historical wind fields in the Bohai Sea,a sequence of annual extremal wave heightsis produced with numerical wave models for deep-water and shallow water.The design wave heights withdifferent return periods for the nearest deep-water point and for the shallow water point are estimated onthe basis of P-Ⅲ type,Weibull distribution,and Gumbel distribution;and the corresponding values for theshallow water point are also estimated based on the HISWA model with the input of design wave heightsfor the nearest deep-water point.Comparisons between design wave heights for the shallow water point es-timated on the basis of both distribution functions are HISWA model show that the results from differentdistribution functions scatter considerably,and influenced strongly by return periods;however,the resultsfrom the HISWA model are convergent,that is,the influence of the design wave heights estimated with dif-ferent distribution functions for deep water is weakened,and the estimated values decrease for long     

渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟

采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。     

Regional projection of future extreme wave heights around Korean Peninsula

In this study, future changes in regional extreme wave heights around the Korean Peninsula are projected by using the results of an atmosphere general circulation model and a third-generation wave model. The direct use of the model output at each grid point is not appropriate even though high resolution of 20 km is used for the models. Therefore, the model output is grouped into six regions around the Korean Peninsula. The grouping approach is reasonable in assessing climate change effects with alleviated model uncertainty. The extreme wave heights are simulated for two climate periods of 1979–2003 (present climate) and 2075–2099 (future climate). The model results are validated by comparing the simulated wave heights for the present climate with observed and hindcasted wave data. The extreme wave heights for the future climate are then projected for different seasons and in different regions. The 50-year return wave height in summer is projected to increase in most regions, especially in the high-latitude Yellow Sea and the East Sea, while the wave height in winter is projected to decrease in all the regions, especially in the East Sea.     

Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum

The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit     

基于震级上限估计的渤海海啸危险性与共振特征研究

根据渤海区域地质断层特征和历史地震活动规律,分析得出渤海内潜在最大震级上限为8.1级,并对该海啸源可能的两组震源机制分别进行了数值模拟。模拟结果显示：渤海局部区域海啸波幅最大可达 1.5 m,最大流速可达2.8~3.0 m/s,具备造成灾害损失的风险。在该海啸源情景下,渤海海盆内易激发长期的水位自由振荡,部分区域水位振荡可持续 20 h以上,振荡波幅的大小与海啸首波波幅相当或更大。基于快速傅里叶变换方法对海啸波进行频谱分析,部分长周期频谱成分满足区域固有共振特征。因此,渤海内一旦发生海啸,不仅要关注海啸首波可能造成的灾害性影响,还要密切关注海啸首波到达后,可能产生的长时间、长周期的海啸波共振以及往复式海啸流造成的影响。     

多源卫星高度计海浪资料在中国近海的验证及应用

Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height(SWH) have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China's coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square(RMS) of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum(0.97) and the RMS difference was the minimum(0.28 m) in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang(Yangtze River) Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum(0.32 m) in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China's offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China's offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6–2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas: the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%–6%. Extreme waves occurred most frequently in autumn and rarely in spring. The 100-year return wave height was greatest from the northwest Pacific seas extending to southeast of the Ryukyu Islands(9–12 m), and the northeast of the South China Sea and the East China Sea had the second largest wave heights(7–11 m). For inshore areas, the100-year return wave height was the greatest in the waters off the east coast of Guangdong Province and the south coast of Zhejiang Province(7–8 m), whereas it was at a minimum in the area from the Changjiang Estuary to the Bohai Sea(4–6 m). An investigation of sampling effects indicates that when using the 1°×1°grid dataset, although the combination of nine altimeters obviously enhanced the time and space coverage of sampling, the accuracy of statistical results, particularly extreme values obtained from the dataset, still suffered from undersampling problems because the time sampling percent in each 1°×1°grid cell was always less than33%.     

Global historical archive of wind waves based on Voluntary Observing Ship data

A new global archive of wind wave characteristics has been developed based on Voluntary Observing Ship (VOS) data for the period of 1888–2015. In addition to the basic meteorological variables, we have derived the records of visually observed heights, periods, and wind sea and swell directions. The main parameters have been supplemented by significant wave height and dominant period estimates, as well as wave geometry characteristics: steepness, wave age, and wavelength. Multistage quality control has been applied to correct or eliminate spurious values. Data are presented as individual records for every month and as original monthly means fields for every parameter. Easy access and use, along with representative data, make the new archive particularly special and applicable in different ways without any additional preprocessing. Visual wave observations assimilated in the new archive can be used to develop global and regional climatologies, estimate extreme wave characteristics and long-term trends in wave climate, verify and compare them with satellite measurements and model analysis, and test the theoretical laws of ocean wave development and propagation.     

Wave model predictions in the Black Sea: Sensitivity to wind fields

This paper evaluates the impact of using different wind field products on the performance of the third generation wave model SWAN in the Black Sea and its capability for predicting both normal and extreme wave conditions during 1996. Wind data were obtained from NCEP CFSR, NASA MERRA, JRA-25, ECMWF Operational, ECMWF ERA40, and ECMWF ERA-Interim. Wave data were obtained in 1996 at three locations in the Black Sea within the NATO TU-WAVES project. The quality of wind fields was assessed by comparing them with satellite data. These wind data were used as forcing fields for the generation of wind waves. Time series of predicted significant wave height (H_mo), mean wave period (T_m02), and mean wave direction (DIR) were compared with observations at three offshore buoys in the Black Sea and its performance was quantified in terms of statistical parameters. In addition, wave model performance in terms of significant wave height was also assessed by comparing them against satellite data.The main scope of this work is the impact of the different available wind field products on the wave hindcast performance. In addition, the sensitivity of wave model forecasts due to variations in spatial and temporal resolutions of the wind field products was investigated. Finally, the impact of using various wind field products on predicting extreme wave events was analyzed by focussing on storm peaks and on an individual storm event in October 1996. The numerical results revealed that the CFSR winds are more suitable in comparison with the others for modelling both normal and extreme events in the Black Sea. The results also show that wave model output is critically sensitive to the choice of the wind field product, such that the quality of the wind fields is reflected in the quality of the wave predictions. A finer wind spatial resolution leads to an improvement of the wave model predictions, while a finer temporal resolution in the wind fields generally does not significantly improve agreement between observed and simulated wave data.