Energy dissipation in oscillatory flow over rippled beds

Measurements of energy dissipation have been made with an oscillating tray apparatus similar to that of Bagnold (1946). Two different bed profiles were examined: one was sinusoidal and the other consisted of fins projecting perpendicularly fromthe plate in a regular two-dimensional pattern. The tests with the sinusoidal profile showed that significant variation in energy dissipation coefficient with Reynolds number occurs near the point at which vortex formation first starts to take place. It is suggested that Bagnold did not observe this effect because of the particular profile used in his tests. The tests with the finned beds showed that even when vortex formation is fully developed there is still some variation in energy dissipation coefficient with Reynolds number, at constant a/k_s, at high Reynolds numbers.     

Modelling and measurement of sand transport processes over full-scale ripples in oscillatory flow

A new series of laboratory experiments was performed in the Aberdeen Oscillatory Flow Tunnel (AOFT) and the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel (LOWT) to investigate time-averaged suspended sand concentrations and transport rates over rippled beds in regular and irregular oscillatory flow. The wave-induced oscillatory near-bed flows were simulated at full-scale. Five series of experiments were carried out. During the two AOFT experimental series, ripple dimensions, ripple migration rates and net sand transport rates were measured under regular and irregular asymmetric flow for two different sand types. The three LOWT experimental series focussed on measurements of the ripple dimensions, ripple migration rates, time-averaged suspended sand concentrations and net sand transport rates under regular asymmetric and irregular weakly asymmetric flow for two different sand types. From analysis of new and other full-scale data, it is concluded that the lower part of the time- and bed-averaged concentration profile (up to two times the ripple height above the ripple crest level) has an exponential profile. A new reference concentration formula is proposed based on the formula of Bosman and Steetzel [Bosman, J.J., Steetzel, H.J., 1986. Time- and bed-averaged concentration under waves. Proc. 20th ICCE Taipei, ASCE, pp. 986–1000], which includes the grain-size influence. Furthermore, it is shown that the concentration decay length is strongly related to the ripple height and that the simple formula R_c = 1.27η gives good agreement with the data. A new transport model is proposed for the wave-related net transport over full-scale ripples based on a modified half wave cycle concept of Dibajnia and Watanabe [Dibajnia, M., Watanabe, A., 1992. Sheet flow under nonlinear waves and currents. Proc. 23rd ICCE Venice, ASCE, pp. 2015–2028; Dibajnia, M., Watanabe, A., 1996. A transport rate formula for mixed sands. Proc. 25th ICCE Orlando, ASCE, pp. 3791–3804]. The magnitudes of the half wave cycle transport contributions are related to the grain-related Shields parameter, the degree of wave asymmetry and a newly defined vortex suspension parameter P, which is the ratio between the ripple height and the median grain-size. The new model has been calibrated using transport data from the new regular flow experiments and has subsequently been validated using other data, including measurements from irregular flow experiments. The new model is seen to perform better overall than existing practical models for ripple regime net sand transport.     

Initiation of sand transport over coarse beds in tidal entrances

A tidal entrance often acts as a source or a sink for sand in the littoral zone. At many entrances in biologically productive regions the bed in the vicinity of the throat section (minimum flow area) is composed of sediment containing coarse material including large shells, with sand occurring in the interstitial regions between the shell-defined roughness elements. A stochastic relationship giving the critical bed shear stress for the initiation of sand transport under these conditions is applied to hydraulic and sedimentary data obtained from two entrances in Florida. The results agree well with the critical bed shear stresses derived from data based on the observation of sand movement at the bed. The entrainment function based on observations is found to be approximately three times the value obtained from Shields' criterion. A practical implication is that the use of Shields' criterion in the computation of the rate of sand transport will in general overpredict the rate through the entrance.     

Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.     

The jet (pulse) model of mushroom-like flow formation

A barotropic model on the -plane is used to consider the problem of mushroom-like flow formation. The method of contour dynamics is applied to investigate the evolution of a bounded jet flow whose linear axi is identified with a rigid wall. The quasi-stationary form of the flow's head part and the velocity of its propagation have been found. The stability of the stationary solution has been studied.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow

A simple model is developed to study the inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow based on the available experimental data. The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow is well defined by the simple model: A/d=KA²ω/ν+B, where A is the semi-excursion of wave orbital motion near the bed, d is the grain size, ω is the angular frequency, ν is the kinematic viscosity of water, and K and B are the coefficients and dependent on sediment properties only. The inception velocity of sheet flow derived from the model is shown to be the function of grain size d, oscillatory period T and specific sediment density s. For a given sediment, the inception velocity is found to increase sharply initially with T and then approach a constant at T>6.0 s. The present model is quite simple and gives good agreement with the available experimental data.     

The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow

A simple model is developed to study the inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow based on the available experimental data. The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow is well defined by the simple model: A/d=KA²ω/ν+B, where A is the semi-excursion of wave orbital motion near the bed, d is the grain size, ω is the angular frequency, ν is the kinematic viscosity of water, and K and B are the coefficients and dependent on sediment properties only. The inception velocity of sheet flow derived from the model is shown to be the function of grain size d, oscillatory period T and specific sediment density s. For a given sediment, the inception velocity is found to increase sharply initially with T and then approach a constant at T>6.0 s. The present model is quite simple and gives good agreement with the available experimental data.     

The dimensions of sand ripples in full-scale oscillatory flows

New large-scale experiments have been carried out in two oscillatory flow tunnels to study ripple regime sand suspension and net sand transport processes in full-scale oscillatory flows. The paper focuses on ripple dimensions and the new data are combined with existing data to make a large dataset of ripple heights and lengths for flows with field-scale amplitudes and periods. A feature of the new experiments is a focus on the effect of flow irregularity. The combined dataset is analysed to examine the range of hydraulic conditions under which oscillatory flow ripples occur, to examine the effects of flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality on ripple dimensions and to test and improve existing methods for predicting ripple dimensions.The following are the main conclusions. (1) The highest velocities in a flow time-series play an important role in determining the type of bedform occurring in oscillatory flow. Bedform regime is well characterised by mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth peak velocities in the case of irregular flow. (2) For field-scale flows, sand size is the primary factor determining whether equilibrium ripples will be 2D or 3D. 2D ripples occur when the sand D₅₀ ≥ 0.30 mm and 3D ripples occur when D₅₀ ≤ 0.22 mm (except when the flow orbital diameter is low). (3) Ripple type (2D or 3D) is the same for regular and irregular flows and ripple dimensions produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows follow a similar functional dependence on mobility number, with mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth velocities in the case of irregular flow. For much of the ripple regime, ripple dimensions have weak dependency on mobility number and ripple dimensions are similar for regular and irregular flows with the same flow orbital amplitude. However, differences in ripples produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows become significant at the high mobility end of the ripple regime. (4) Ripple dimensions predicted using the Wiberg and Harris formulae are in poor agreement with measured ripple dimensions from the large-scale experiments. Predictions based on the Mogridge et al. and the Nielsen formulae show better overall agreement with the data but also show systematic differences in cases of 3D ripples and ripples generated by irregular flows. (5) Based on the combined large-scale data, modifications to the Nielsen ripple dimension equations are proposed for the heights and lengths of 2D ripples. The same equations apply to regular and irregular flows, but with mobility number appropriately defined. 3D ripples are generally smaller than 2D ripples and estimates of 3D ripple height and length may be obtained by applying multipliers of 0.55 and 0.73 respectively to the 2D formulae. The proposed modified Nielsen formulae provide an improved fit to the large-scale data, accounting for flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality.     

An investigation of the velocity field under regular and irregular waves over a sand beach

Near-bed horizontal (cross-shore) and vertical velocity measurements were acquired in a laboratory wave flume over a 1:8 sloping sand beach of finite depth. Data were acquired using a three-component acoustic Doppler velocimeter to measure the velocity field close to, but at a fixed distance from the bed. The near-bed velocity field is examined as close as 1.5 cm above a trough and crest of a ripple under three different types of wave forcing (Stokes waves, Stokes groups, and irregular waves). Although both horizontal and vertical velocity measurements were made, attention is focused primarily on the vertical velocity. The results clearly indicate that the measured near-bed vertical velocity (which was outside the wave-bottom boundary layer) is distinctly nonzero and not well predicted by linear theory. Spectral and bispectral analysis techniques indicate that the vertical velocity responds differently depending on the location over a ripple, and that ripple-induced effects on the velocity field are present as high as 4–8 cm above the bed (for vortex ripples with wavelengths on the order of 8 cm and amplitudes on the order of 2 cm). At greater heights above the bed, the observed wave-induced motion is adequately predicted by the linear theory.     

The effect of groundwater on topographic changes in a gravel beach

In recent years, several attempts to stabilize the beach by control of the percolation of water have been proposed. However, morphodynamics in the surf zone is still not clear because of the complexity of wave actions and sediment transport. Especially, there is a little research on gravel beach morphodynamics including wave breaking in the surf zone. The present study investigates experimentally how groundwater level influences topographic changes in a gravel beach and simulates numerically the wave fields and flow patterns in the surf zone, considering the porosity of the media and the presence of groundwater. In experiments, water-level control tank was designed to control the simulated groundwater elevation and the wave flume was divided into two parts to maintain a constant mean water level. The experimental results show that the berm formed in the upper portion of the shoreline moves up the beach as the groundwater level falls and the lower the groundwater level, the steeper the beach surface. The numerical model was developed to clarify these features capable of simulating the difference of groundwater and mean water level. Numerical results showed different flow patterns due to the groundwater elevation; wave run-up weakens and wave run-down strengthens by the seaward currents caused by elevated groundwater. These deformations of the flow pattern explain well how the beach profile is affected by the groundwater elevation.     

The Effect of the Propeller Jet on Pile Groups简

The objective of this study is to determine the effect of jet propeller on the damage of berthing structures combined of armoured slope with pile groups. For this purpose, scour measurements were performed for four types berthing structures, which were armoured slope with tandem arrangements of piles for two and three piles and with side by side arrangements of piles for two and three piles. The effect of gap between piles on damage was investigated. The damage level induced by propeller jet between piles was determined. The gaps were 1, 2, 3, and 4 times the pile diameter. Three different values of Rpm （690, 820, and 950） were chosen for the tests. The diameter of circular piles is 40 mm. The slope ratio was 1/3 and the diameter of propeller was 10 cm.     

The effect of standing biomass on flow velocity and turbulence in Spartina alterniflora canopies

Plant-flow interactions on the surface of tidal wetlands result in flow characteristics that are profoundly different from non-vegetated flows. Reductions in mean flow velocity and turbulence, especially the vertical components, limit vertical mixing and may impact a wide range of processes including geochemical exchanges at the sediment water interface, larval recruitment and dispersion, and sediment deposition and retention. The goal of this paper is to quantify horizontal and vertical components of velocity, turbulence intensity and total turbulent kinetic energy in Spartina alterniflora canopies in southeastern North Carolina and to relate flow characteristics to particulate transport on the marsh surface. Another aim of this paper is to assess the extent to which the distribution of standing biomass affects mean flow and turbulence by comparing S. alterniflora data to other canopy types and through a series of canopy manipulations which altered canopy height and stem densities.The results of this study indicate that flow velocity, turbulence intensity, and total turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) are significantly reduced within the vegetated canopy and that this reduction is inversely related to the amount of biomass present in the water column. Within the canopy, approximately 50% of the initial mean velocity and TKE is reduced within 5 m of the canopy edge. Within the canopy, mean velocity and TKE_horiz usually exceeded vertical velocity or TKE_vert and the vertical components of flow were attenuated more strongly than the horizontal. These results suggest that within the vegetation, turbulence contributes more to lateral advection than to vertical mixing. As a result, total suspended solid concentrations were shown to decrease logarithmically with distance from the canopy edge and to decrease at a faster rate in more densely vegetated regions of the canopy (i.e. lower TKE_vert) as compared to areas of sparser vegetation (i.e. higher TKE_vert).     

振荡流层移输沙条件下悬沙层泥沙扩散系数垂向分布特征研究

层移输沙是海岸带泥沙运动的主要形式之一,其垂向悬沙浓度分布规律的研究一直是海岸工程关心的重点。一般情况下,经典的纯扩散模型被用来描述和解释悬沙浓度的试验数据,该模型认为周期平均悬沙浓度主要由参考浓度、泥沙沉速和泥沙扩散系数确定。泥沙扩散系数可以由泥沙沉速和悬沙浓度的垂向梯度反演得到。既往研究大多直接给出泥沙扩散系数的结果,对于不同反演计算方法间结果差别的研究较少。本研究汇总了已有振荡流层移输沙试验数据,采用曲线拟合方法和直接差分方法计算了相应的泥沙扩散系数,研究表明两种方法得到的计算结果在垂向位置z 0.15 m处差异不大,随着垂向位置的升高,差分方法的计算结果略微大于拟合方法。考虑到拟合方法可以得到连续的泥沙扩散系数垂向分布,本研究推荐使用幂函数形式的曲线拟合方法求解悬移泥沙扩散系数。基于此,对比分析了层移输沙悬沙层泥沙扩散系数随泥沙粒径、振荡流周期、均方根流速和振荡流类型等物理参数的变化规律。在纯振荡流层移输沙条件下,泥沙扩散系数随泥沙粒径的增大而增大,而振荡流周期和均方根流速几乎不影响泥沙扩散系数。在振荡流和定常流共同作用下,泥沙扩散系数受振荡流周期和定常流流速的影响,泥沙扩散系数随着振荡流周期的增大或定常流流速的减小而增大。     

亚洲南部地区海陆分布对亚洲冬季风影响的数值试验

利用美国国家大气研究中心研制的第三代公共气候模式CCM3/NCAR,设计了一系列数值试验,研究非洲大陆、印度半岛、中南半岛与其周围的阿拉伯海、印度洋和孟加拉湾及南海海陆交叉分布对亚洲冬季风环流形成的重要作用.试验结果表明:亚洲南部地区的阿拉伯海、孟加拉湾和南海冬季风及其越赤道气流的存在与非洲大陆-阿拉伯海-印度半岛-孟加拉湾-中南半岛-南海的海陆热力差异有关;并且冬季热带地区北风分量的产生也与次行星尺度海陆热力差有关,同时这些次行星尺度海陆热力差也对副热带和高纬度冬季风形成有明显作用.试验结果也表明中南半岛不仅对临近的冬季风有局地的影响,对冬季风的传播也有重要的作用,中南半岛的存在减弱了流向孟加拉湾和印度的冬季偏东风气流,使部分气流在南海转向,形成了南海冬季风;另外,非洲陆地、印度半岛和中南半岛的存在都能对其高空的副热带急流产生重要的影响,尤其是印度半岛和中南半岛的存在对高原南支副热带急流的维持有重要的作用;另外也讨论了这些陆地与海洋间的热力差对冬季地面气温和降水的影响.     

注聚区油井砾石分级充填防砂工艺技术研究

注聚区油井砾石分级充填防砂工艺技术是针对胜利油田注聚区见聚油井产出液黏度增大、携砂能力增强,提液引效措施加剧油井出砂使油井防砂有效期变短等问题进行研究的。该技术是在注聚区油井充填防砂时改变过去采用单一粒径砾石进行充填防砂的做法,将不同粒径砾石按不同比例分级充填到近井、炮眼附近和筛套环空,同时在中粒度粒径的砾石中加入经过表面处理的短切纤维,提高了砾石充填挡砂屏障的挡砂强度,实现了挡砂屏障的“挡砂、稳砂、排砂”的功能。截止到2010年4月底,该技术现场累计推广应用32井次,分级充填后注聚区油井液量由27．2m3提高到40．43m3,油量由1．01m3提高到3．89m3,增幅分别达40％和80％,最长防砂有效期已达到400d。该技术的研发和应用,较好地解决了注聚区油井提液引效使防砂有效果变短和油井近井堵塞的问题,具有良好的应用前景。     

A review of the equations used to predict the velocity distribution within a ship’s propeller jet

Predicting the velocity within the ship’s propeller jet is the initial step to investigate the scouring made by the propeller jet. Albertson et al. (1950) suggested the investigation of a submerged jet can be undertaken through observation of the plain water jet from an orifice. The plain water jet investigation of Albertson et al. (1950) was based on the axial momentum theory. This has been the basis of all subsequent work with propeller jets. In reality, the velocity characteristic of a ship’s propeller jet is more complicated than a plain water jet. Fuehrer and Römisch (1977), Blaauw and van de Kaa (1978), Berger et al. (1981), Verhey (1983) and Hamill (1987) have carried out investigations using physical model. Current paper reviews the state-of-art of the equations used to predict the time-averaged axial, tangential and radial components of velocity within the zone of flow establishment and the zone of established flow of a ship’s propeller jet.     

Tidal-cycle changes in oscillation ripples on the inner part of an estuarine sand flat

Oscillation ripples form on subaqueous sand beds when wave-generated, near-bottom water motions are strong enough to move sand grains. The threshold of grain motion is the lower bound of the regime of oscillation ripples and the onset of sheet flow is the upper bound. Based on the relation between ripple spacing and orbital diameter, three types of symmetrical ripples occur within the ripple regime. In the lower part of the ripple regime (orbital ripples), spacing is proportional to orbital diameter; in the upper part (anorbital ripples) spacing is independent of orbital diameter. Between these regions occurs a transitional region (suborbital ripples).

Oscillation ripples develop on a sandy tidal flat in Willapa Bay, Washington, as a result of waves traversing the area when it is submerged. Because wave energy is usually low within the bay, the ripples are primarily orbital in type. This means that their spacing should respond in a systematic way to changes in wave conditions. During the high-water parts of some tidal cycles, ripples near the beach decrease in spacing during the latter stage of the ebb tide while ripples farther offshore do not change. Observations made over several tidal cycles show that the zone of active ripples shifts on- or offshore in response to different wave conditions.

Detailed bed profiles and current measurements taken during the high-water part of spring tides show the manner in which the oscillation ripples change with changes in orbital diameter. Changes in ripple spacing at the study site could be correlated with changes in orbital diameter in the manner suggested by the criterion for orbital ripples. However, there appeared to be a lag time between a decrease in orbital diameter and the corresponding decrease in ripple spacing. Absence of change during a tidal cycle could be attributed to orbital velocities below the threshold for grain motion that negated the effects of changes in orbital diameter.

Because changes in sand-flat ripples depend both upon changes in orbital diameter and upon the magnitude of the orbital velocity, exposed ripples were not necessarily produced during the preceding high tide. In fact, some ripples may have been just produced, while others, farther offshore, may have been produced an unknown number of tides earlier. Therefore, when interpreting past wave conditions over tidal flats from low-tide ripples, one must remember that wave periods have to be short enough to produce velocities greater than the threshold velocity for the orbital diameters calculated from the observed ripple spacings.     

Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts

The equation most commonly used to describe the bay planform was proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) and it was obtained through empirical analysis of sand beach planforms.In the last decade interest in gravel sediments increased owing to their greater stability on beaches, compared with sand sediments. Due to the differences between the morphodynamics of sand and gravel beaches, which is strictly influenced by their different hydraulic characteristics, it was necessary to create a predictive instrument for this beach type as well.Therefore, in this study the standard Hsu and Evans equation (1989) was modified in order to make it applicable not only to sand beaches but also to gravel beaches. The shoreline was computed according to a parabolic model in polar coordinates whose coefficients are considered linearly dependent on the wave direction and related to the beach type. The estimation of the free parameters of the model was performed according to a statistical analysis of a shorelines data set of Mediterranean sand and gravel embayed beaches.     

The influence of corner radius on the forces experienced by cylindrical bluff bodies in oscillatory flow

Measurements are presented of the effects of corner radius on the hydrodynamic forces experienced by cylindrical bluff bodies in oscillatory flow over the Keulegan Carpenter number range from 1 to 100. The range of Reynolds number covered is from 200 to 2 × 10⁴ and two basic cross-sectional shapes, namely a square and a diamond, were used in the investigation. Drag coefficients in oscillatory flow are found to be more sensitive to corner radius than in steady flow. At a fixed Keulegan Carpenter number the drag coefficient of a diamond section decreases with increasing corner radius and the reduction is more marked at low Keulegan Carpenter numbers. The drag of a square section does not follow a consistent trend with corner radius and for high Keulegan Carpenter numbers the rounded square with a corner radius of 0.265D (where D is the width of the model normal to the flow) can have a drag coefficient equal to half the value for a circular cylinder.     

含砂量变化影响海底沉积物压缩波速度的分析研究

本文通过对南海海底沉积物样品的声学物理参数和沉积粒度特征统计分析,发现了高、低含砂量沉积物的声学物理特征存在明显差异,建立了海底沉积物的含砂量与压缩波速度、孔隙度、含水量和密度等经验公式,分析了含砂量变化与沉积物的体积压缩模量和密度变化的关系,从声速理论基础上阐明了含砂量变化引起沉积物压缩波速度变化的内在原因是含砂量变化引起了体积压缩模量和密度发生了变化,说明了含砂量增大引起沉积物压缩波速度增大的内在原因是含砂量增大引起了体积压缩模量变化量大于密度变化量,从而在数据统计和理论分析结合基础上,论证了含砂量是影响海底沉积物压缩波速度的重要因素之一。这一研究对声学方法反演海底沉积物粒度参数和沉积物类型、地声参数转换模型的建立,以及对水声反演海底和海底资源勘探等方面都具有重要理论意义和应用价值。