杭州湾北岸张家厍潮滩动态系统的频谱分析

应用ＡＲ谱和多维最大熵谱方法分析了杭州湾北岸张家厍潮滩的波浪，潮流及潮滩面高程数据。结果表明，潮滩的变动和潮流，波浪变化的关系十分密切，潮滩面高程具有３０，１５，２－５ｄ的周期变化；冬春季节潮滩变化以潮流作用造成的低频变化为主，夏秋季节则由低频向高频转移，波浪引起的潮滩高频变化也很显著；低潮滩到中潮滩下部的冲淤变化与潮流作用关系密切，中潮滩上部，高潮滩的冲淤变化对常浪性质的波浪作用具有明显的响应。     

渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟

采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。     

磨刀门河口枯季波生流场数值模拟研究

本文建立曲线坐标系下的双曲型缓坡方程波浪模型和考虑波浪辐射应力影响的深度平均2D潮流数学模型,首次研究了磨刀门河口2011年地形条件下的枯季波生流场。受波浪作用影响,落潮阶段,波浪作用方向与流向相反,在波浪顶托效应下拦门沙沙脊及外坡处流速普遍减小,形成两个主要回流区,口门外东西两侧浅滩处流速也减小,东西两汊及横洲深槽流速增大;涨潮阶段,波浪作用方向与流向相同,拦门沙沙脊及外坡处流速增大,沙脊处出现冲越流,口门两侧浅滩处流速增大,横洲深槽流速减小。     

崇明岛南侧盐沼潮滩消能状态研究

沿海盐沼潮滩可以有效降低波浪高度,耗散波浪能量,在海岸防护和沿海城市安全中扮演着重要角色。以长江河口崇明岛南侧盐沼潮滩为对象,基于不同潮间带实测波浪变化数据,采用波能衰减模型对波浪横向沿潮滩衰减状态进行定量分析,由此探讨波浪衰减主控要素。结果表明:波浪沿盐沼潮滩向岸传播过程中,波高以及波能大幅下降,其中光滩—芦苇前部区域波能平均下降19%,芦苇区域波能平均下降71%,有植被覆盖区域对波浪的衰减效应更为显著。同时,水深、入射波高及阻力是影响盐沼潮滩波浪衰减的主要因素,波浪衰减强度随水深增大而减小,入射波高增加以及阻力的增大而增强。     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

渤海波浪和潮汐风暴潮相互作用对波浪影响的数值研究

基于依赖波浪成长状态波令的表面风应力，提出了一个波浪和风暴潮潮汐运动相互作用的联合数值模式，实现了第三代波浪模式和三维风暴潮潮汐模式联合作用的数值研究，并结合渤海典型天气个例的研究，给出了渤海波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的机制和大小量级的定量估计。研究表明，对不同天气过程，波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的性质和大小不同；对强寒潮过程，对波浪影响主要由风暴潮所支配波高调制可达1m，在黄河口区一般达0．5m；对弱天气过程，对波浪影响主要由潮所控制，波高调制约在0．2m，联合作用模式给出的结果与实测更吻合。     

琼州海峡内潮流场对冬季风浪场影响的数值研究

利用COAWST数值模式就琼州海峡内潮流场对冬季风浪场的影响进行了研究。经实测数据验证,模型可较好的刻画海峡内的强潮流场。选定东、西向最大潮流时刻为典型案例分别就水位场及潮流场对波浪场的作用展开探讨。在琼州海峡东口处,西向最大潮流时刻下的正水位场增加了承载波浪运动的有效水深,有利于波浪能量的西向传播,进而使得当地有效波高增加。东、西向最大潮流均有利于琼州海峡东口处有效波高的增大,但前者主要通过流致辐聚效应实现,而后者主要经由流致波数位移生效。通过流致折射作用,东向（西向）最大潮流可在海峡中轴线以北的海区引起谱峰波向的逆时针（顺时针）旋转,而在以南的海区触发顺时针（逆时针）旋转。     

Effect of sea level rise on tidal circulation in the Hooghly Estuary,Bay of Bengal

The issue of sea level rise is receiving considerable attention all over the world. Although the Indian stations have shown mixed trends, a positive sea level trend has been noticed in the Hooghly Estuary, situated on the east coast of India. The Hooghly River serves as a navigable waterway to Calcutta and Haldia ports. The river is tidal for nearly 250 km. To study the water levels and tidal currents in the lower part of the Hooghly Estuary, from sea face at Sagar to Hooghly Point, a vertically integrated numerical model has been used. The model is fully nonlinear and uses a semiexplicit finite‐difference scheme to solve the basic hydrodynamic equations on a staggered grid. This model is coupled with a one‐dimensional model, which has been used for the upper estuary from Hooghly Point to Swarupganj, where the flow is unidirectional. The computed water levels and currents are found to be in good agreement with the available observations. This model is applied to study the alterations in tidal circulation for a rise and fall in the sea level. The results have shown a substantial increase in the amplitude and velocities of the tidal wave due to the sea level rise.     

长江口潮间带沉积对台风过程的响应

位于陆海交汇区的河口潮滩对台风作用的响应极为敏感.台风大浪极可能构成河口潮滩沉积过程的快速变化,进而不利于潮滩保护、开发及利用.基于此,本文利用200509号"麦莎"台风作用前后长江口南汇潮滩采集的沉积物样品及水文资料,探讨台风高能事件作用下河口潮滩动力沉积过程及其主控因素.结果表明长江口潮间带不同区域沉积作用对于"麦...     

A study of non-linear tidal propagation in shallow inlet/estuarine systems Part I: Observations

The offshore tide becomes strongly distorted as it propagates into shallow estuarine systems. Observations of sea surface elevation and horizontal currents over periods ranging from three days to one year, at nine stations within Nauset inlet/estuary, document the non-linear interaction of the off-shore equilibrium tidal constituents. Despite strong frictional attenuation within the estuary, the overtides and compound tides of M₂, S₂ and N₂, in particular, reach significant amplitude, resulting in strong tidal distortion. High frequency forced constituents in sea surface are phase-locked, consistently leading the forcing tides by 60–70°, resulting in a persistent distortion where falling tide is longer than rising tide. Forced constituents in currents are more nearly in phase with equilibrium constituents, producing flood currents which are shorter but more intense than ebb currents. A compound fortnightly tide, MS_f, modulates the mean water level such that lowest tides occur during neap phase instead of spring phase. This fortnightly tide can be contaminated by storm surge, changing the phase characteristics of this constituent. Implications of the overtides, compound tides, and lower frequency tides on near-bed, suspended and dissolved material transport are profound.     

Short-term (≤2 yrs) estuarine mudflat and saltmarsh sedimentation: High-resolution data from ultrasonic altimetery, rod surface-elevation table, and filter traps

Rates of short-term (up to 2 years) bed elevation change and sedimentation from mudflats to salt marshes were measured in a rapidly infilling macrotidal estuary using an original combination of three high-resolution techniques: an ultrasonic altimeter, the Rod Surface-Elevation Table (RSET) method, and filter traps. The Authie estuary is located on a straight, sand-rich coast and is undergoing rapid infill under the influence of flood-dominant tides reinforced by wave action. The estuarine sediment suite consists of both mud and sand derived from the sea, of sand derived from storm wave erosion of dunes lining the north bank of the estuary, and, to a much smaller extent, of mud from the river catchment. Bed elevation change and sedimentation rates show an expected increase with the duration of tidal flooding (hydroperiod) in both space and time. The estuarine bed sediment suite changes from sandy at the mouth to muddy within the low-energy inner estuary, where mudflats are rapidly accreting, paving the way for the formation of increasingly denser and mature salt marshes from the high-sedimentation pioneer zone to the upper marsh where annual sedimentation is very low. Recorded variability in rates of bed elevation change and sedimentation reflect the influence of estuarine macro-scale and local sediment transport and depositional processes in a macrotidal context dominated by high inputs of allochthonous sediments.     

Modeling residual circulation and stratification in Oujiang River estuary

A 3D,time-dependent,baroclinic,hydrodynamic and salinity model was implemented and applied to the Oujiang River estuarine system in the East China Sea.The model was driven by the forcing of tidal elevations along the open boundaries and freshwater inflows from the Oujiang River.The bottom friction coefficient and vertical eddy viscosity were adjusted to complete model calibration and verification in simulations.It is demonstrated that the model is capable of reproducing observed temporal variability in the water surface elevation and longitudinal velocity,presenting skill coefficient higher than 0.82.This model was then used to investigate the influence of freshwater discharge on residual current and salinity intrusion under different freshwater inflow conditions in the Oujiang River estuary.The model results reveal that the river channel presents a two-layer structure with flood currents near the bottom and ebb currents at the top layer in the region of seawater influenced on north shore under high river flow condition.The river discharge is a major factor affecting the salinity stratification in the estuarine system.The water exchange is mainly driven by the tidal forcing at the estuary mouth,except under high river flow conditions when the freshwater extends its influence from the river’s head to its mouth.     

Dispersal and recruitment of blue crab larvae in Delaware Bay,U.S.A.

Results of a three-year survey of the occurrence of Callinectes sapidus larvae in the mouth of Delaware Bay indicated that stage I zoea larvae were most abundant insurface water as compared to mid-depths and near bottom. The major peak in abundance of stage I zoea larvae occurred in early August with a secondary peak in early September. Peaks in abundance of megalopae occurred five weeks after the respective peaks in zoeal abundance. Zoea stages II–VIII were not collected in the bay mouth. Results of sampling every 3 h over consecutive tidal cycles showed that stage I zoea larvae were most common in the water column on ebbing tidal currents. Megalopae were most common in the water column on flooding tidal currents, suggesting a tidally related, vertical migration. It was concluded that stage I zoea larvae are flushed from the estuary and undergo development on the continental shelf. Megalopae are then transported back to inshore waters by a combination of winds and currents and invade the estuary by means of migration into the water column on flooding tidal currents and migration to the bottom on ebbing tidal currents.     

风浪在开敞潮滩短期演变中的作用——以南汇东滩为例

本文以引水船站风和波浪的相关性为理论依据,以南汇东滩滩面实测资料为基础,说明风浪是控制开敞潮滩短期演变的主要动力因子。     

波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流分布及阻力特性试验

本文通过物理模型试验研究了波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流的分布特征以及阻力特性,分析了典型波浪工况下无潮流、正向潮流和反向潮流分别作用下平均流速、摩阻流速、阻力系数的沿礁变化规律。结果表明：无潮流时礁前斜坡及外礁坪上存在海底回流且在礁缘附近回流最强,在礁坪上冠层附近平均流表现为向岸流,且该流沿礁向海岸方向持续增大。相较于无潮流时,正向潮流作用下冠层内外均为向岸流,在礁坪上冠层内外的向岸流显著增大;反向潮流作用下冠层内外均为离岸流且在礁缘处达到最大,该离岸流在礁坪上逐渐减小然后趋于稳定。无潮流时礁坪上摩阻流速呈小幅波动;相较于无潮流时,正向潮流、反向潮流影响下礁坪上摩阻流速显著增大,其中正向潮流影响下增幅更大;无潮流时礁坪上水力粗糙度沿礁减小,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下水力粗糙度普遍有幅度不等的增加。三种工况下礁坪上的阻力系数均沿礁整体呈下降趋势,相较于无潮流时,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下礁坪上的阻力系数显著增大,且正向潮流作用时增幅更大。     

杭州湾的沉积结构与沉积环境分析

漏斗状的地形、强劲的潮流和长江入海泥沙的输入是制约杭州湾沉积作用的主要因素。根据沉积结构特征可将杭州湾划分为五种不同的沉积环境:东部湾底、西部湾底、庵东浅滩、近岸深槽和水下沙脊。杭州湾内潮流脊发育不好的原因在于没有足够的粗屑物质。     

长江河口北支上口不规则周期潮流的动力机制

数值模拟和动量分析长江河口北支上口枯季大潮期间 1 d内出现"四涨四落"不规则周期涨落潮流现象。长江河口北支上口 1日内两次涨潮流和两次落潮流为常规涨落潮流,受外海半日潮流控制,两次涨潮流和落潮流为非常规涨落潮流。北支上口非常规的涨潮流处于南支落潮的末期,范围小,流速弱,历时约2 h;表层主要是垂向黏滞项和水平扩散项与正压项间的作用,南向的垂向黏滞项起着决定的作用,底层则是斜压项与正压项间的作用;北支上口非常规涨潮流是北风、盐度锋面产生的南向斜压压强梯度力和南支末期落潮流的牵引作用共同造成的;径流抑制非常规涨潮流的产生,持续时间随径流量的增加呈指数递减,当径流量达到22 300 m3/s时,非常规涨潮流现象消失。北支上口非常规落潮流处于南支涨潮流的初期,由于在北支上口南支的涨潮流早于北支涨潮流,导致南支水体进入北支,形成北支上口第二次落潮流,范围较大,流速较强,历时约2.5 h,从表层至底层主要是垂向黏滞项与非线性平流项和正压项之间的作用。本文揭示了北支上口 1 d内出现"四涨四落"不规则周期涨落潮流的动力过程和机制。     

超强台风“威马逊”作用下红河三角洲海域水动力环境变化的数值研究

201409号超强台风"威马逊"于2014年7月从北部湾北部过境,对红河三角洲近岸海域的水动力环境产生重要影响。本文基于Delft3D建立三维潮、流、浪耦合数值模型,对红河三角洲水位、海流及波浪对台风的响应变化进行模拟。结果表明:威马逊台风期间,红河三角洲海域风速增大约6倍,风向由偏南风转为偏北风,表底层流速均受影响,其中表层变化较大,表现为北分量流速明显增大,流向变为偏南向,与风向主分量变化有关;波高增大为正常海况的9倍,时间变化与风速一致。本研究获得了从北部湾北部海域过境的台风影响下红河三角洲海域水动力环境的响应变化特征,对该海域的物质输运研究及海洋工程建设有重要意义。     

瓯江口及东部海区潮差沿程变化分析

利用瓯江河口及东部近岸海区11个验潮站的实测大潮和小潮潮位过程进行统计,并探讨了潮波由外海向瓯江河口及上游传播过程中潮差的沿程变化。结果表明,受水下地形摩阻、岛屿阻隔及岸线束窄作用,潮波由外海向河口内传播过程中,潮差逐渐减小,且低潮位逐渐抬高;同时,越靠近河口及上游,潮差沿程变化越为显著。