Fine sediment resuspension dynamics in a large semi-enclosed bay

A field study was conducted to investigate fine sediment resuspension dynamics in Moreton Bay, a large semi-enclosed bay situated in South East Queensland, Australia. One S4ADW current meter and three OBS sensors were used to collect the field data on tides, mean currents, waves and suspended sediment concentrations in a mean water depth of 6.1 m for about 3 weeks. Two small cleaning units were specially designed to automatically clean the OBS sensors several times every hour to avoid biological growth on the OBS sensors. Based on the collected field data, the main driving force for fine sediment resuspension is found to be the storm wind-waves generated locally in the Bay, not the tidal current or penetrated ocean swell. The critical wind-wave orbital velocity for sediment resuspension was determined to be U_rms=7 cm/s and the critical bed shear stress τ_cr=0.083–0.095 Pa at this study site.     

Sediment Deposition and Resuspension in Mouth Bar Area of the Yangtze Estuary

—A comprehensive analysis is conducted based on observations on topography.tidal current.salinity.suspended sediment and bed load during the years of 1982.1983.1988.1989.1996 and 1997 in theYangtze Estuary.Results show that the deformation of tidal waves is distinct and the sand carrying capaci-ty is large within the mouth bar due to strong tidal currents and large volume of incoming water and sedi-ments.Owing to both temporal and spatial variation of tidal current.deposition and erosion are extremelyactive.In general a change of up to 0.1 m of bottom sediments takes place during a tidal period.The maxi-mum siltation and erosion are around 0.2 m in a spring to neap tides cycle.The riverbed is silted duringflood when there is heavy sediment load.eroded during dry season when sediment load is low.The annualaverage depth of crosion and siltation on the riverbed is around 0.6 m.In particular cases.it may increaseto 1.4 m to 2.4 m at some locations.     

Wind Fields over Funka Bay and Their Effect on Water Circulation in the Bay

Horizontal wind fields over Funka Bay during cold air outbreaks were simulated using a 3-D meso-scale atmospheric model. The simulated wind fields over the bay have a positive curl in the north and a negative curl in the south. These wind fields were used to simulate the current in Funka Bay using a barotropic ocean model. The simulated current pattern was composed of two vortices—one with anti-clockwise vorticity in the north and the other with clockwise vorticity in the south—and was in the opposite direction to that simulated by the uniform wind fields. This is because the wind stress curl effect on the vorticity production in Funka Bay opposes and overwhelms the bathymetry torque effect during cold air outbreaks. These results show that the non-uniformity of the wind fields caused by the land topography around a shallow lake or bay cannot be neglected in simulating its currents.     

强潮环境下悬沙对底部边界层的影响

对杭州湾金山深槽附近两个定点站位的大潮期间同步水文、泥沙观测结果进行了粉砂分布区再悬浮效应的分析,提出了根据再悬浮过程反演底床切应力的新方法。研究结果表明,在强潮动力、高悬沙质量浓度环境下,即使无密度成层性,悬沙质量浓度对底部边界层的影响仍然存在,表现为底部切应力的减小。在这一条件下,如仍然采用卡门-普朗特模型(κ=0.4),则估算的底部切应力将大大高于实际的数值。     

海气动量通量研究综述

海气界面动量通量也称为风应力,是海流和表面海浪的主要驱动力,是海洋从大气获得动量的重要途径。因此,合理可靠的海洋表面风应力的参数化对于海洋、大气和波浪以及气候模式的准确预报都具有非常重要的科学意义和实用价值。对风应力拖曳系数的参数化是风应力参数化的主要内容。近来的观测发现,风应力拖曳系数随着风速的增加出现了先增后减的趋势,同时还与海面的波浪状态以及海流有关。基于观测或理论分析,目前已经得到了一系列的风应力拖曳系数计算方法或公式,有的考虑了海浪的作用,有的没有,但这些方案大都是适合中低风速,在高风速下的适用性还有待检验。本文回顾了目前在海气动量通量观测和参数化方面的研究进展,并建议应增加高风速下风速、海流以及海浪等的同步观测,以进一步完善风应力参数化方案。     

新鹤海湾的演变特征及水沙模拟分析

为准确把握新鹤海湾的演变特征和水动力条件,采用现场观测和GIS技术对其地形变化、冲淤分布和冲淤量进行探讨,并利用数值模拟分析波浪、潮流和泥沙共同作用对海湾演变的影响。结果表明:海湾演变对连续台风的响应不同,表现为先冲后淤,其中苏拉作用下的冲刷量为台风过境后全年的2倍左右;受东南季风的影响,春夏冲淤幅度较大,海湾冲淤分布为南冲北淤,波高分布不均与涨潮流入湾时的向北偏转是其主要原因;波流共同作用下的底床切应力约为潮流单独作用时的10倍,波浪是导致海湾冲刷的主要因素,常浪下底床切应力小于临界冲刷应力,泥沙不易起动,因此海湾冲刷主要是由极端天气时的大浪所导致的。     

浙江中部三门湾波浪特征统计分析

为了研究浙江中部三门湾海域的波浪特征,本文基于AWAC波浪观测仪在该海域进行了连续1年的观测,对观测得到的波浪参数进行了统计分析、线性回归分析,同时研究分析了三门湾海域受台风影响时,波浪参数和波浪谱的变化情况,探讨了波浪变化的原因。研究表明,三门湾海域常浪向和强浪向均为E向,地形是主导因素;显著波高绝大部分在0.8 m以下,期间的最大波高为2.71 m;该海域的波浪特征分布是一个比较典型的瑞利分布;台风“泰利”期间波能谱以双峰为主,外海涌浪和研究海域风区内的风浪形成混合浪,其中0.08 Hz左右的低频涌浪成分占比很大,而0.25 Hz左右的高频风浪成分占比较小。本文的研究工作为沿海海洋工程结构物的设计建造以及防灾减灾提供重要参考依据。     

渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟

采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。     

Storm Enhanced Bottom Shear Stress and Associated Sediment Entrainment in a Moderate Energetic Estuary

Several important mechanisms for storm-induced entrainment of estuarine cohesive sediments are analyzed using field measurements collected in a moderately energetic estuary, central Long Island Sound, U.S.A. The sediment concentration and hydrographic data were obtained by an array of sensors mounted at 1 m above the bottom. The bottom sediment in the study site composed mostly of silt and silty sand. The study showed that the bottom shear stress, computed using a wave-current interaction model, increased significantly during the episodic wind events. A large resuspension event was triggered by a frontal passage when strong wind-driven currents augmented the tidal currents. The timing of storm waves with respect to the tidal phase also was a critical factor. Based on the changes of suspended sediment concentration, the bottom appeared to respond to the shear stress in two phases: the tidal resuspension and the storm-induced erosion. During each tidal cycle, entrainment was associated with resuspension of high water content, loosely consolidated material. During episodic events, a thin layer of more consolidated bed below the sediment-water interface was eroded by the enhanced bottom stress.     

围填海工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响

为了深入了解围填海工程对波浪场特别是风浪场的影响,针对10 a 围填海工程对渤海湾地形岸线的改变,将 SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)海浪数值模式应用到渤海湾,讨论了人类大工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响.采用欧洲气象中心每天4次的风场资料作为驱动,模拟渤海湾2000年和2010年的风浪场,着重分析岸线变化显著的3个港口工程(曹妃甸、天津港和黄骅港)附近海域的波浪要素变化.研究结果表明,工程建筑物存在后,有效波高呈减小趋势,港池和潮汐通道内的有效波高减小幅度较大.港口地理位置和海底地形也与岸线变化共同影响着港口附近海域的波浪场分布.围填海工程对波浪有效波高及周期影响的程度不大,有效波高减小值在0.2 m 以下,周期几乎不变.     

简单热带海气耦合模式中的海洋低频扰动

讨论简单热带海气耦合模式中的低频海洋扰动。研究结果表明,挟卷对海洋Ｒｏｓｂｙ波的发展起抑制作用,而平流有利于海洋Ｒｏｓｓｂｙ波的发展;挟卷和平流都有利于与海温距平相对应的扰动Ｕ的发展     

Estimate of contribution of near-inertial waves to the velocity shear in the Bay of Bengal based on mooring observations from 2013 to 2014

Near-inertial motions contribute most of the velocity shear in the upper ocean. In the Bay of Bengal (BoB), the annual-mean energy flux from the wind to near-in...     

Sediment geochemistry in coastal maritime Antarctica (Admiralty Bay, King George Island): Evidence from rare earths and other elements

We report the concentrations of 22 elements in short coastal sediment cores of Admiralty Bay (King George Island, Antarctica) determined by Neutron Activation Analysis. We focus the discussion on rare earth elements (REE) because their fractionation patterns in sediments relative to local sources may offer insights about weathering, transportation, deposition, and diagenetic processes. We found strong correlations between REE and Th, indicating detrital origin. Despite strong Eh gradients, the Th-normalized redox-sensitive elements (e.g., Eu, Ce, Fe, As, and others) showed little variability within the sedimentary environment. The exceptions were U (depleted in the upper few centimeters) and Br (enriched in the upper few centimeters). While U appears to be removed from seawater via uptake across the boundary of reducing sediments, the mechanisms driving Br accumulation are unclear, but perhaps related to increasing diatom production driven by regional warming. A comparison with published concentrations from rocks representing the regional eroding units showed that the characteristics of source rock could be recognized in the REE fractionation patterns in our sediments. These results imply no significant alteration during weathering and sediment transport in the coastal region of Admiralty Bay and the prevalence of strong periglacial erosion in ice-free areas of maritime Antarctica in spite of the relatively mild regional environmental setting (e.g., high moisture and high temperatures).     

Sub-surface temperature oscillations and associated flow in the western Bay of Bengal

Unusual temperature variations at subsurface depths were noticed while making continuous observations (for 13 h) on temperature, salinity and currents at a point in the vicinity of river Krishna in the western Bay of Bengal. Sharp temperature oscillations recorded at four different levels between 14 and 20·1 m had an average periodicity of about 1·6 h. Similar periodicities were also observed in the case of flow components. Computed Brunt-Vaisälä frequency, vertical shear and Richardson number showed remote possibilities of vertical mixing occurring in this area. These oscillations showed features of internal waves propagating with a speed of about 13·3 cm s⁻¹ and wavelengths between 0·8 and 1·3 km and apparently generated as a result of flood current passing over a submarine obstacle in the presence of stratification.     

北太平洋风应力与流场联合EOF的主模态分析

采用了SODA资料,将海面风应力场与大洋各层流场看作一个整体做了赤道外北太平洋风应力和流场异常的联合EOF分析,此时风应力场与各层流场有相同的时间系数,这样就可揭示海气耦合的结构和演变,这是该方法的特点和优点。得到的主要结论有:诊断得到的主模态的风应力异常体现了北太平洋大气活动中心的异常,两者关系密切;在冬、春、秋三季均表征为阿留申低压的异常,在夏季则表征为副热带高压的异常。该主模态的风应力和流场异常均是PDO模态在其上的体现,且前者处海气相互作用中矛盾的主要方面,后者处次要方面,前者起着主动作用,后者则处被动状态。主模态在四季均有明显的年际变化和年代际变化;对北太平洋风场和上层流场而言,年际变化反映了ENSO的影响,而约20a的年代际变化则反映了太平洋年代际振荡(PDO)的影响。主模态中北太平洋海盆尺度的风应力异常、大洋环流异常和上层海温的动力异常这三者具有紧密的联系,这三者的连锁作用则造成了北太平洋SSTA的PDO模态;而在此大洋环流异常则起着关键中介作用。主模态的风应力异常与黑潮系统流场的异常有紧密联系;对于明显的正(负)异常,冬、夏两季135°E以东的黑潮都偏强(弱),黑潮续流则偏弱(强);对于黑潮以南的回流涡旋,冬季则偏强(弱),夏季则偏弱(强);而ENSO和PDO对黑潮流场系统的异常均有明显影响。     

Sea level fluctuations in central California at subtidal to decadal and longer time scales with implications for San Francisco Bay, California

Sea level elevations from near the mouth of San Francisco Bay are used to describe the low-frequency variability of forcing of the coastal ocean on the Bay at a variety of temporal scales. About 90% of subtidal fluctuations in sea level in San Francisco Bay are driven by the sea level variations in the coastal ocean that propagate into the Bay at the estuary mouth. We use the 100-year sea level record available at San Francisco to document a 1.9 mm/yr mean sea level rise, and to determine fluctuations related to El Nino-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and other climatic events. At time scales greater than 1 year, ENSO dominates the sea level signal and can result in fluctuations in sea level of 10–15 cm. Alongshore wind stress data from central California are also analyzed to determine the impact of changes in coastal elevation at the mouth of San Francisco Bay within the synoptic wind band of 2–30 days. At least 40% of the subtidal fluctuations in sea level of the Bay are tied to the large-scale regional wind field affecting sea level variations in the coastal ocean, with little local, direct wind forcing of the Bay itself. The majority of the subtidal sea level fluctuations within the Bay that are not related to the coastal ocean sea level signal are forced by an east–west sea level gradient resulting from tidally induced variations in sea level at specific beat frequencies that are enhanced in the northern reach of the Bay. River discharge into the Bay through the Sacramento and San Joaquin River Delta also contributes to the east–west gradient, but to a lesser degree.     

杭州湾北岸潮滩沉积物粒度的时间变化及其沉积动力学意义

2002年5月-2003年4月对杭州湾北岸中潮滩一个固定观测点表层沉积物进行逐日取样,采用库尔特LS100Q型激光粒度仪进行粒度分析,探讨潮滩沉积物粒度随时间的演变。结果表明,潮滩粒度特征在时间上有明显的变化,1～6月潮滩堆积期间沉积物粒度较细,7-12月潮滩侵蚀期间沉积物较粗,其中1月和7月为潮滩冲淤转换期间沉积物粒度显示双峰分布;沉积物午平均粒度亦显示双峰分布,细颗粒部分主要是由于悬沙落淤形成,而粗颗粒部分主要是由于潮滩下部粉、细砂物质向上推移形成。通过潮滩沉积动力学的探讨阐明了潮滩沉积物粒度演变的原因和特点。     

Laboratory observation of boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in surf zone using particle image velocimetry

A boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in a laboratory surf zone with a smooth bottom is investigated using a high resolution particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By cross-correlating the images, oscillatory velocity profiles within a viscous boundary layer of O(1) mm in thickness are resolved over ten points. Using PIV measurements taken for an earlier study and the present study, flow properties in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) over the laboratory surf zone are obtained, including the mean velocities, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stresses, and intermittency of coherent events. The data are then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness, phase variation, and bottom shear stress. It is found that while the time averaged mass transport inside the WBBL is onshore in the outer surf zone, it changes to offshore in the inner surf zone. The zero Eulerian mass transport occurs at h/h_b ≈ 0.92 in the outer surf zone. The maximum overshoot of the streamwise velocity and boundary layer thickness are not constant across the surf zone. The bottom shear stress is mainly contributed by the viscous stress through mean velocity gradient while the Reynolds stress is small and negligible. The turbulence level is higher in the inner surf zone than that in the outer surf zone, although only a slight increase of turbulent intensity is observed inside the WBBL from the outer surf zone to the inner surf zone. The variation of phase inside and outside the WBBL was examined through the spatial velocity distribution. It is found the phase lead is not constant and its value is significantly smaller than previous thought. By analyzing instantaneous velocity and vorticity fields, a remarkable number of intermittent turbulent eddies are observed to penetrate into the WBBL in the inner surf zone. The size of the observed large eddies is about 0.11 to 0.16 times the local water depth. Its energy spectra follow the − 5/3 slope in the inertial subrange and decay exponentially in the dissipation subrange.     

Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash

Direct measurements of bed shear in the swash zone are presented. The data were obtained using a shear plate in medium and large-scale laboratory bore-driven swash and cover a wide range of bed roughness. Data were obtained across the full width of the swash zone and are contrasted with data from the inner surf zone. Estimates of the flow velocities through the full swash cycle were obtained through numerical modelling and calibrated against measured velocity data. The measured stresses and calculated flow velocities were subsequently used to back-calculate instantaneous local skin friction coefficients using the quadratic drag law. The data show rapid temporal variation of the bed shear stress through the leading edge of the uprush, which is typically two–four times greater than the backwash shear stresses at corresponding flow velocity. The measurements indicate strong temporal variation in the skin friction coefficient, particularly in the backwash. The general behaviour of the skin friction coefficient with Reynolds number is consistent with classical theory for certain stages of the swash cycle. A spatial variation in skin friction coefficient is also identified, which is greatest across the surf-swash boundary and likely related to variations in local turbulent intensities. Skin friction coefficients during the uprush are approximately twice those in the backwash at corresponding Reynolds number and cross-shore location. It is suggested that this is a result of the no-slip condition at the tip leading to a continually developing leading edge and boundary layer, into which high velocity fluid and momentum are constantly injected from the flow behind and above the tip region. Finally, the measured stress data are used to determine the asymmetry and cross-shore variation in potential sediment transport predicted by three forms of sediment transport formulae.