Internal flow structure of short wind waves

Characteristic features of the internal flow field of short wind waves are described mainly on the basis of streamline patterns measured for four different cases of individual wave. In some waves a distinct high vorticity region, with flow in excess of the phase speed in the surface thin layer, is formed near the crest as shown in Part I of this study, but the streamlines are found to remain quite regular even very near the water surface. The characteristics of flow in the high vorticity region are investigated, and it is argued that the high vorticity region is not supported steadily in individual waves but that growth and attenuation in individual waves repeats systematically, without no severe wave breaking. Below the surface vorticity layer a quite regular wave motion dominates. However, this wave motion is strongly affected by the presence of the high vorticity region. By comparing the measured streamline profiles with those predicted from wave profiles by the use of a water-wave theory, it is found that the flow of the wind waves studied cannot be predicted, even approximately, from the surface displacements, in contrast to the case of pure irrotational water waves.     

Internal flow structure of short wind waves

The internal flow structure of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel was investigated on the bases of the measured vorticity distributions, streamline patterns, internal pressure fields, and stress distributions at the water surface for some waves in the field. In part I the experimental method and the internal vorticity structure relative to the individual wave crests are described. The measured vorticity distributions of distinct waves (waves with waveheight comparable with or larger than that of significant wavesH _1/3) in the field indicate that the surface vorticity layer is extraordinarily thickened near the crest, and the vorticity near the water surface shows a particularly large value below the crest. The flow near the crest of distinct waves is found to be in excess of the phase speed in a very thin surface layer, and the tangential stress distribution has a dominant peak near the crest. It is argued that the occurrence of the region of high vorticity in distinct waves is associated with the local generation of vorticity near the crest by tangential stress which attains a peak, under the presence of excess flow.     

Internal flow structure of short wind waves

The minimum value of wind stress under which the flow velocity in short wind waves exceeds the phase speed is estimated by calculating the laminar boundary layer flow induced by the surface tangential stress with a dominant peak at the wave crest as observed in previous experiments. The minimum value of the wind stress is found to depend strongly on, the ratio of the flow velocity just below the boundary layer and the phase speed, but weakly onL, the wavelength. For wind waves previously studied (=0.5,L=10 cm), the excess flow appears when the air friction velocityu _* is larger than about 30 cm sec^–1. The present results confirm that the excess flow found in my previous experiments is associated with the local growth of a laminar boundary layer flow near the wave crest.     

Internal flow structure of short wind waves

For wind waves generated in a wind-wave tunnel, the surface pressure and also the pressure distribution along the internal streamlines were calculated from the measured internal velocity field. In distinct waves, with wave height comparable with or larger than the mean, the surface pressure is found to vary drastically in a narrow region around the crest, showing a dominant minimum near the crest. On the other hand, the pressure distribution along the streamline shows systematic variations that are nearly in phase with the streamline profile. It is shown that the occurrence of the pressure in phase with the streamline profile is linked with the internal vorticity distribution, especially with the presence of a high vorticity region below the crest described in Part I of this study. As a result of the occurrence of such pressure variations, the dispersion relation is modified by about 10% from that for linear irrotational waves. It is argued from the present measurements that the dispersion relation and also the energy transfer from wind into wind waves are strongly affected by the internal vortical structure so that the assumption of irrotational gravity waves cannot be applied to the wind waves being studied.     

基于风廓线雷达观测的台风“天兔”边界层演变特征研究

垂直探测台风边界层特征对于认清台风结构具有重要意义。基于1319号台风“天兔”途经的三个边界层风廓线雷达站的观测资料,结合探空数据,本文分析了“天兔”的边界层径向、切向风特征,结果表明：1）最大切向风速出现在眼区附近,在“天兔”稳定维持为强台风级别期间,最大切向风速基本稳定在1800 m高度左右,随着登陆后强度的迅速减弱,最大切向风速减弱、最大切向风速垂直范围缩小;2）最大风速所在高度和台风入流层顶高基本相近,大于依据理查森数或位温梯度所判断出的边界层高度,而基于信噪比（SNR）或其梯度所判断的混合层高度时常偏低;3）“天兔”登陆前边界层高度可以达到2100 m以上,在台风级别及以上时,各站观测到的边界层高度变化不大,基本在1200～1600 m之间,登陆后随着台风强度的减弱,边界层高度迅速减小。     

涌浪对大气边界层风廓线的影响

以往研究表明, 涌浪存在时, 近海面大气边界层内Monin–Obukhov相似性理论(Monin–Obukhov Similar Theory, MOST)将会失效, 风廓线模型的建立需要考虑波致应力的影响。基于此, 本文首先研究了包含涌浪影响的Ekman模型和常通量层模型求解的风廓线。结果表明: 两种模型估算的风廓线均对涌浪的波衰减率系数c_β有较高的依赖性, 在c_β<–50时, 模型求解的风廓线均出现近海面风速极大值, 但科氏力对近海面风廓线的影响可以忽略。在不同的大气层结下, 分析发现海浪边界层(直接受波浪影响的区域)内风速明显小于海浪边界层之上MOST廓线在相同高度的外推值, 体现了涌浪引起明显的剪切增强。通过对比分析广东省茂名市附近海上观测平台的实测数据发现, 在涌浪存在时, MOST普遍无法描述风廓线; 统计分析表明常通量层模型估算的风廓线在8 m处的风速与实测数据高度一致。考虑以往研究基本局限于中性大气层结条件, 而涌浪经常显著影响着浮力作用明显的中低风速条件, 我们的研究将有助于理解不同大气层结条件下涌浪对风廓线的影响。     

Tidal boundary layer measurements in the presence of waves

Measurements of tidal current and wave velocity made at 0.69 and 1.85 m above a rough seafloor exhibit large current gradients (boundary layer) in the water column. The logarithmic boundary layer flow model was fitted to the measurements, and thus roughness (z₀) and friction velocity (u^*) parameters were derived. The roughness parameter values were generally consistent with the observed upstream physical roughness. The values of both parameters for conditions in the rough turbulence flow regime are generally larger (much larger for ebb) than earlier published values for similar measurements of currents in the absence of significant waves but are comparable to values from recent measurements of currents in the presence of storm waves. The high parameter values here appear to relate more to the magnitude of the current and to the upstream physical bottom roughness than to the magnitude of the seastate. Large boundary layers in the flow at the seabed have a profound effect on the design of offshore structures such as offshore pipelines.     

The energy cycle of wind waves on the sea surface

The problems of wind-induced waves on the sea surface are considered. To this end, the empirical fetch laws that determine variations in the basic periods and heights of waves in relation to their fetch are used. The relation between the fetch and the physical time is found, as are the dependences of the basic characteristics of waves on the time of wind forcing. It is found that about 5% of wind energy dissipated in the near-water air layer contributes to the growth of wave heights, i.e. wave energy, although this quantity depends on the age of waves and the exponent in the fetch laws. With consideration for estimates of the probability distribution functions for the wind over the world ocean [11], it is found that the rate of wind-energy dissipation in the near-water air layer is on the order of 1 W/m². The calculations of wind waves [19] for the world ocean for 2007 have made it possible to assess the mean characteristics of the cycle of wave development and their seasonal variations. An analysis of these calculations [19] shows that about 20% of wind energy is transferred to the water surface. The remaining amount (80%) of wind energy is spent on the generation of turbulence in the near-water air layer. About 2%, i.e., one tenth of the energy transferred to water, is spent on turbulence generation due to the instability of the vertical velocity profile of the Stokes drift current and on energy dissipation in the surf zones. Of the remaining 18%, 5% is spent directly on wave growth and 13% is spent on the generation of turbulence during wave breaking and on a small-scale spectral region. These annually and globally mean estimates have a seasonal cycle with an amplitude on the order of 20% in absolute values but with a smaller amplitude in relative values. According to [19] and to the results of this study, the annually mean height of waves is estimated as 2.7 m and their age is estimated as 1.17.     

Negative correlations of variations in near-water wind and surface wind waves

The relationship between the intensity of surface wind waves and near-water wind is analyzed. The data of measuring wind waves and near-water wind under natural conditions in the Black Sea (July 2004) and Norwegian Sea (June 2003, 16th cruise of the R/V Akademik Sergei Vavilov) are used. A phenomenon of negative correlations has been found between the intensity of wind waves and near-water wind in regions of substantial restructuring of wind waves in the field of inhomogeneous flows: wind-wave amplification during wind decay and vice versa. Examples of such observations are presented, a theoretical model is constructed for the observed phenomenon, and a good agreement is obtained between theory and experiment.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves

On the basis of data on the statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves reported in part I of this series, a self-consistent similarity regime is found to exist among properties of the individual waves, such as the nondimensional frequency, the wave number, the phase speed, and the steepness. Also, it is shown that forms of past empirical formulas for the development of the peak wave can be derived starting from the 3/2-power law, as an extension of the persent laboratory experimental data. In the derivation, only values of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law, and the fraction of momentum transferred from the wind retained by the wind waves, remain on an empirical basis.     

波流作用下海底边界层沉积物再悬浮与影响因素研究

海底沉积物再悬浮及其分布取决于海洋水动力、沉积物类型与床面形态之间复杂的相互作用,准确地理解和确定沉积物再悬浮过程对于沉积物输运的研究具有重要的意义。本文在祥云湾海洋牧场典型海域开展现场原位观测,获取研究区波浪、海流及悬浮沉积物浓度数据;分析了波、流作用下海底边界层悬浮沉积物垂向分布特征,并探究了海洋水动力和床面形态对悬浮沉积物垂向分布的影响。结果表明,研究区波流之间的相互作用不显著,沉积物再悬浮受控于风暴浪作用,风暴浪作用下底床切应力可以达到沉积物临界切应力的10～15倍,沉积物的再悬浮滞后于风暴浪作用2～3 h。在波浪荷载微小的情况下,悬浮沉积物垂向分布呈现"I"型,波浪荷载下,悬浮沉积物垂向分布呈现幂指函数分布,表现为"L"型;床面形态随波、流作用而演化,影响沉积物的再悬浮过程,u_?w/u_?c=1.00可作为波浪和海流起主导控制作用的床面形态的判别依据,纯波浪荷载作用下的u_?w/u_?c显著高于波浪主控作用下,但二者之间的界线随着波浪荷载的增加而升高。     

热带气旋风场对海浪分布特征的影响

设计了一系列理想的数值实验,利用高分辨率的WAVEWATCHIII海浪模式定量分析热带气旋移动速度、强度、最大风速半径和热带气旋移动时的转向等风场细节因素对热带气旋下表面海浪分布特征的影响。实验结果表明,热带气旋移动速度、最大风速半径和热带气旋移动时的转向会影响海浪的空间非对称分布。最大风速半径增大会使最大有效波高的位置向后移动,而移动速度增大会使最大有效波高位置向前移动。移动速度增大会使右侧象限内的有效波高增大,左侧象限内有效波高减小。最大风速半径增大和强度增强使各象限内有效波高均增高。热带气旋的转向使各象限内有效波高增高,除了右后象限。这些风场特征对各个象限内海浪的平均波长、平均周期、平均波向、和波峰方向都有很重要的影响,尤其以左后象限最为显著。     

规则波下刚性植物根茎对边界层最大剪切力特性影响研究

基于考虑根茎影响的近岸植物消波实验,对边界层的最大剪切力特性进行了研究。利用前人提出的规则波下含植物水流的边界层流速计算公式,探究了单独根和根茎组合两种植物模型的边界层最大剪切力特性,分析了两种模型的剪切力的沿程变化、植物对剪切力衰减特性的影响,拟合了衰减系数的公式。研究表明,波浪在通过植物带时,剪切力会出现一定幅度增大,随后逐渐降低。植物对剪切力的消减效果随入射波高的增大而增大,且茎有助于根群对边界层最大剪切力的消减作用,其消减系数的范围为0.06~0.61,拟合的公式更加适用于水深较浅的情况。     

The interaction of surface waves in the presence of wind

Zakharov's equation is applied to study numerically the evolution of wave amplitudes. It is demonstrated that, owing to Krasitskii's new kernel functions, the system of surface waves remains Hamiltonian, in contrast to the former approaches used by Yuen, Lake, and Zakharov. If surface waves are wind-generated, they grow and become stochastic. If the effect of the waves on the wind is considered, then the wave amplitude evolution, similar to the no-wind case, continues to be recurrent. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

A comparative analysis of models for dynamic boundary layer of atmosphere

This paper considers the currently available approaches to constructing numerical models describing the dependence of parameters of the atmospheric boundary layer on waving parameters (dynamic boundary layer). The models proposed in [1, 2] are characterized by detailed numerical algorithms, numerical calculations, and comparisons of the resistance coefficient C _d as functions of the parameters of the waving surface, the state of which is given by the model two-dimensional wave spectrum as represented in [3]. For the same spectrum, the calculation results obtained by different models are shown to yield estimates for the value of C _d with a more than twofold discrepancy; however, the trends in the dependence of C _d on wave age and wind strength are close to one another and to observational data. Possible shortcomings of both approaches are analyzed, and ways to eliminate them are proposed. The requirements for setting special experiments needed to verify theoretical models of the dynamic boundary layer are discussed.     

Non-linear surface waves in the layer of fluid on a porous base

Non-linear and solitary surface waves represent one of the most intriguing and thoroughly investigated phenomena in ocean dynamics. Up to now, a considerable number of results have been obtained, which are related to the study of solitary waves in the coastal shelf zone, and their propagation and transformation under the effect of various factors. In the majority of such studies, the sea bottom surface was assumed to be impervious to fluid. Only some of them, e.g. refs 1–4, considered the propagation of waves in the limited layers of fluids on the pervious (porous) bases. At the same time, Shepard [5] and Nikolaevsky [6] pointed out that the bottom surface structure on the shelf is often porous. In this case, the pervious layer represents a porous matrix (possibly deformable) completely filled with fluid. Its density is different from the free fluid density.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. UDK 532.59.