Processing irregular wave measurements to enhance point absorber power capture performance

The paper aims at introducing practical methods for power capture performance enhancement of a heaving wave energy converter in irregular seas. The optimum control solution requires tuning to wave frequency based on wave force information. However, identification of the wave frequency in irregular seas is considered to be a complex and difficult task. This is partly due to technical difficulties in determination of the wave force. Besides, there are no clear guidelines for identification of wave frequency from an irregular sea state based wave force information. In a typical application, one of the available sources of information about the wave properties is the wave elevation record. The proposed approach presents a method for estimation of the wave frequency information from the wave elevation data by using signal processing and filtering techniques. The proposed method uses filters to generate an estimation of wave force information, which is used to identify the local wave frequency by method of a time-series analysis of the data. This wave frequency information is then used in tuning the device. The details of the proposed techniques, the model of the wave energy converter, the simulated sea states and the related simulation results are also presented.     

海浪外观统计与内部结构关系的数值研究

基于数值模拟的三维随机海面,从时间域和空间域两个角度对海浪的外观特征和内部结构间的关系进行了研究,得出了一些在工程应用上有参考价值的结果.文章认为,将波面看作是若干随机正弦波叠加的海浪结构模型,用于描述平稳、均匀和窄谱的海况时,其频谱分析结果与外观统计结果基本上是一致的;但是,当海面处于谱宽度较大的风浪或混合浪状态时,一些频谱分析结果必须经过修正才能应用.同一海况下,海面波动的时间过程和沿主波向的空间分布是明显不同的.当海面有突发性大浪时,外频谱能够很好地反映不平稳海况,而频谱则把这种不平稳性平滑了.文章着重讨论了波长和波陡的计算、频谱和外频谱的差异.     

基于局域波分解的地震信号时频属性提取

局域波分解可以得到有意义的频率并可以抑制时频分布交叉项,是1种新的自适应信号分解方法.在局域波分解基本原理的基础上,研究基于局域波分解的地震信号分频谱及频率属性的提取方法.将局域波分解与传统时频分析结合,进行有效数值实现与对比分析,通过模型地震数据与实际2D地震数据试算验证方法的正确性和有效性.研究表明:基于局域波分解的Wigner时频分布分频谱,具有较高的时频分辨率,交叉项得到简单有效的抑制;基于局域波分解的时频分析方法计算提取的频率属性,避免无意义的负频率,物理意义明确,为在地震储层研究和油气检测中的正确应用奠定基础.     

响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth

The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h     

风浪局域小波谱峰的涨落

将湍流研究中已得到有效应用的局域小波能谱概念引入到风浪研究.分析了实验室不同风速下风浪的局域小波能谱.结果表明,局域小波谱峰值存在着显着的涨落,涨落的方差随风速的增加而增大.这不仅体现了风浪的局域结构,还意味着通常风浪谱的应用中除了要考虑平均意义下的频谱峰值外,还必须考虑局域小波谱峰值的涨落方差.     

Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.     

浙江近海波浪能资源的初步研究

以2000年为例,采用SWAN波浪数值模型对浙江近海海域的波浪进行了全年模拟计算,并计算获得年、月平均波功率密度分布。研究表明,浙江近岸海域年平均波功率密度约为2~6 kW·m^-1,往外海逐渐增大;同时季节变化明显,秋、冬季节波功率密度较大,春、夏季节较小。另外,通过对浙北、浙中和浙南3个近海海区的波浪出现频率和波功率密度随波高和周期变化的分析可知,浙北海域波功率密度比较高的波高及周期范围和波浪出现频率较高范围较为接近,而其对应平均波功率密度相对较低;浙南海域波功率密度比较高的范围所对应的平均波功率密度较高,而与波浪出现频率较高的范围则略有差异;浙中海域居两者之间。总体而言,浙江近海波浪能资源丰富,且全年中可开发与利用的波浪能出现频率较高。     

Fluctuations of peak energy and peak frequency of local wavelet energy spectrum for wind waves

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Wavimeter

A method of extracting wave parameters from surface displacement measured from a moving platform is presented. The article first presents a method for accurately measuring surface displacement using a single beam altimeter and heave sensor. A least squares approach is presented to estimate wave parameters using vessel velocity and perceived wave frequency that eliminates Doppler due to vessel motion. Two techniques for estimating wave frequency are presented: a block data method using MUSIC and a real-time method using demodulation. Sea trial results demonstrate that this method is as effective as a WaveRider buoy for estimating wave parameters.     

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

The experimental study on infra-gravity wave

A series of experiments were conducted in a super-wave flume (300 m×5 m×5.2 m) to examine the low-frequency motion induced by waves with different incident steepness, sloping gradients and normalized frequency (sideband space). Two kinds of waves including initial uniform wave train and modulated wave train (one carrier with a pair of sidebands) are utilized for incident wave conditions. From the experimental results, it is found that for a given slope gradient the infra-gravity wave component decreases as wave nonlinearity increases and frequency downshift is a predominant factor. Furthermore, the magnitude of low-frequency component decreases with slope gradients for a given initial wave condition. In addition, the maximum value of low-frequency motion is found to be close to the normalized frequency, δ=1.0.     

HF radar data quality requirements for wave measurement

HF radar wave measurements are presented focussing on theoretical limitations, and thus radar operating parameters, and quality control requirements to ensure robust measurements across a range of sea states. Data from three radar deployments, off the west coast of Norway, Celtic Sea and Liverpool Bay using two different radar systems, WERA and Pisces, and different radio frequency ranges, are used to demonstrate the wave measurement capability of HF radar and to illustrate the points made. Aspects of the measurements that require further improvements are identified. These include modifications to the underlying theory particularly in high sea states, identification and removal of ships and interference from the radar signals before wave processing and/or intelligent partitioning to remove these from the wave spectrum. The need to match the radio frequency to the expected wave peak frequency and waveheight range, with lower radio frequencies performing better at higher waveheights and lower peak frequencies and vice versa, is demonstrated. For operations across a wide range of oceanographic conditions a radar able to operate at more than one frequency is recommended for robust wave measurement. Careful quality control is needed to ensure accurate wave measurements.     

Radar Investigation of the Structure of Wind Waves

Radar data from three experiments are analysed. Scatter characteristics of 50 cm wind-generated waves have been investigated with a C-band radar in a large wind-wave tank. Evidence of wave groups in sea clutter from the west coast of Scotland in the Sound of Sleat is also presented. The spectrum of the waves in the sound is narrow-banded and the waves are young, like the wind-wave spectrum in the laboratory. Clutter measurements, collected on the English south coast at Portland, of more ocean-like waves with broad band spectra also suggest the presence of wave groups. Evidence of the presence of wave groups is demonstrated in range-time images, as well as in the Fourier domain. Some ad hoc processing schemes, the normalised variance and binary threshold techniques, were successfully applied to enhance the appearance of the wave groups. The wind waves change frequency with fetch in the wave tank and the downshifting process is investigated using range-frequency maps of the radar data. The waves appear to change frequency in discrete steps that are associated with wave breaking events. The difference in wave period before and after breaking could be measured, and a wave crest was shown to be lost to compensate for the change in period, as expected. Some downshifting could also be measured in the Sound of Sleat. The ratio of wave group frequency and wave frequency is inaccordance with Benjamin-Fier sideband instability theory, as it is for the data measured at Portland. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

Experimental Investigation on the Extreme Waves Induced by Single Wave Packets in Finite Water Depth

Single Gaussian wave groups with different initial wave steepness ε_0 and width N are produced in laboratory in finite depth to study the nonlinear evolution, the extreme events and breaking. The results show that wave groups with larger ε_0 will evolve to be several envelope solitons(short wave groups). By analyzing geometric parameters, a break in the evolution of the wave elevation and asymmetric parameters after extreme wave may be an indicator for the inception of refocus and the maximal wave moving to the middle, namely, wave down-shift occurs. The analysis of the surface elevations with HHT(Hilbert-Huang Transform), which presents the concrete local variation of energy in time and frequency can be exhibited clearly, reveals that the higher frequency components play a major role in forming the extreme event and the contribution to the nonlinearity. Instantaneous energy and frequency in the vicinity of the extreme wave are also examined locally. For spilling breakers, the energy residing in the whole wave front dissipates much more due to breaking, while the energy in the rear of wave crest loses little, and the intra-wave frequency modulation increases as focus. It illustrates that the maximal first order instantaneous frequency f_1 and the largest crest tend to emerge at the same time after extreme wave when significant energy dissipation happens, and vice versa. In addition, it shows that there is no obvious relation of the CDN(combined degree of nonlinearity) to the wave breaking for the single Gaussian wave group in finite water depth.     

摆式波能转换装置水动力特性频域分析

基于势流理论,建立波浪与摆式波能转换装置作用的三维频域分析模型。应用数值模型对两种质量的摆式波能转换装置进行水动力分析,在考虑粘性阻尼作用的条件下,计算传动系统的最优扭阻系数。在最佳工况下,开展了波浪频率对摆板运动响应和俘获能量影响的系统研究,给出了波浪最佳频率范围、摆板振幅、能量俘获效率以及摆板表面的波动压强。     

潮汐影响下海滩前滨波浪传播耗能过程分析

文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。     

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper,a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral(HOS) method with a non-periodic boundary.A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method.Based on the numerical model,the effects of wave parameters,such as the assumed focused amplitude,the central frequency,the frequency bandwidth,the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave,the maximum generated wave crest,and the shifting of the focusing point,are numerically investigated.Especially,the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized.The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave,the central frequency,and the wave amplitude distribution type.The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves.Generally,it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points,implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing,especially for 2D wave.In 3D wave groups,a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.     

THE EQUAL PROBABILISTIC COMBINATION BETWEEN SEA STATE AND RESPONSE OF STRUCTURE

Combination of a fixed design wave height with various wave periods may exert quite different wave loads on ocean structure. The response of structure induced by mild sea state may be larger than that by severe sea state because the frequency of the spectral peak for mild sea state is near to the natural frequency of structure. Thus it is necessary to investigate the worst combination between wave height and period, and also the critical combination between sea state and response for any design criteria. This paper presents a new combinative mode of wave height and period for equal return period. The selections of original design wave height and the critical combination of sea state with response for equal probability are also discussed.