Circular plumes in Lake Pontchartrain estuary under wind straining

Circular shaped density plumes of low turbidity, low fecal indicator (Escherichia coli and enterococci) concentrations, and high salinity have been observed near the Industrial Canal in Lake Pontchartrain, north of the City of New Orleans. A conceptual model in polar coordinates and a numerical model are developed, together with data analysis, to illustrate the dense plume. It is demonstrated that the northward expansion of the plume occurs under northerly winds. The northward expansion of the plume occurs under northerly winds that drive downwind flow at the surface and upwind radial flow at the bottom. Northerly wind-induced straining, similar to tidal straining, promotes vertical stratification. As a result, the water becomes stratified near a thin bottom layer (<1 m), within which density currents are facilitated. The stability of the stratified plume suppresses wind-induced turbulent mixing inside the plume. The bottom water outside of the plume is more effectively stirred by the wind, the result being that the suspended sediment concentration outside of the plume area is much higher than inside. This contrast in mixing makes the plume visible from the surface by satellites even though the stratification is at the bottom. Laterally, wind stress produces a torque (vorticity) in areas of non-uniform depth such that upwind flow is developed in deep water and downwind flow in shallow water. The continuity requirement produces an upwind flow along the axis of the Industrial Canal (IC). The upwind flow is balanced by the downwind flow over the shallower peripheral areas along the coast.     

Physical model study of wave and current conditions at 17th Street Canal breach due to Hurricane Katrina

A 1:50 scale physical model was constructed for the 17th Street Canal region, New Orleans, on the southern coast of Lake Pontchartrain, as part of the Interagency Performance Evaluation Task Force (IPET) study of Hurricane Katrina. The purpose of the 1350 m² physical model that represented about 3.4 km² of the local area was to aid in defining wave and water velocity conditions in the 17th Street Canal during the time period leading up to the breaching of the floodwall within the Canal. In the immediate period following this disaster, there were many hypothesis of failure put forth in the media. Some of these hypothesis indicated wave action may have been the underlying cause of the failure of the 17th Street Canal floodwall. Some performed numerical work with inappropriate boundary conditions, which indicated strong wave-generated currents may have caused erosion along the floodwalls. This physical model study indicated a number of wave-attenuating processes occurring as waves approached the location of the breach. Wave height reduction resulted due to: (1) refraction of wave energy over the shallower submerged land areas surrounding the harbor away from the canal; (2) reflection of energy off vertical walls in the region between the entrance to the canal near the Coast Guard Harbor and the bridge; and (3) interaction of the wave with the Hammond Highway bridge, including reflection and transmission loss. Wave heights near the lakeside of the bridge were 0.3-0.9 m in height, reduced from 1.8 to 2.7 m wave heights in the open lake. Waves on the south side of the bridge, near the breach, were further reduced to heights below 0.3 m. These results supported the conclusion that waves were not a significant factor for the 17th Street Canal floodwall failure. Other IPET investigations determined floodwall failure was of a geotechnical nature due to the high surge water level. The physical model also provided calibration information for numerical wave models. The effects of debris on flow and waves after the breach was formed were also investigated.     

Patterns of tidal flooding within a mangrove forest: Coombabah Lake,Southeast Queensland,Australia

Tidal flooding and surface drainage patterns have often been used to describe mangrove species zonation. However, in mangrove forests exhibiting little topography, ambiguous species distributions and/or few species, such approaches are ineffective. We identified four physiognomic mangrove forest types (Riverine, Fringing, Overwash and Basin) at Coombabah Lake, a tidal lake in southeast Queensland, Australia and investigated tidal flooding patterns using synoptic surveys of tidal observations at the local Standard Port combined with local water depth observation. Subsequently three sub-types of the basin forest type were identified: (1) Deep Basin Forest with mature trees, ∼50 cm standing water and ∼3 tides per year; (2) Medium Depth Basin Forest with intermediate tree development, ∼15–30 cm standing water and 20–40 tides per year; and (3) Shallow Basin Forest with relatively recent mangrove establishment, 5–15 cm standing water and ∼80 tides per year. These three basin sub-types were found to flood at different tide heights with the Shallow Basin flooding for tides above mean high water springs and the Deep Basin flooding only for tide heights approaching the highest astronomical tide. We propose that these basin types represent a succession in mangrove forest development that corresponds with increasing water depth and tree maturation over time. The succession not only represents increasing age but also change in basin substrate composition. This is manifest as increasing pneumatophore density and an increasing area of basin surface occupied by contiguous pneumatophore cover. As a result, it seems that mangrove development is able to modify tidal flooding into the basin by increasingly impeding water movement.     

Tidal and subtidal water volume exchange in an estuarine system

Estuarine water movements occur over a broad range of time scales. In this study, moored current meter data were used to investigate water volume exchange in the tidal passes of Lake Pontchartrain, Louisiana on the tidal and subtidal time scales. A calibration technique, employing cross-channel measurements of water velocity, was used to calibrate the moored current meters, thus allowing for calculation of volume flow over a 35-day period. The local diurnal tide accounted for 50% of the total volume exchange, the rest being due to subtidal events (frontal passage). This subtidal exchange occurs primarily as large-scale events characterized by volume fluxes up to six times greater than the normal tidal prism. Neglecting this subtidal component in the determination of the volume fluxes for a system such as Lake Pontchartrain, could result in substantial underestimation (by as much as 50%) of these volume and their corresponding material fluxes.     

Methane sources,sinks and fluxes in a temperate tidal Lagoon: The Arcachon lagoon (SW France)

The Arcachon lagoon is a 156 km² temperate mesotidal lagoon dominated by tidal flats (66% of the surface area). The methane (CH₄) sources, sinks and fluxes were estimated from water and pore water concentrations, from chamber flux measurements at the sediment–air (low tide), sediment–water and water–air (high tide) interfaces, and from potential oxidation and production rate measurements in sediments. CH₄ concentrations in waters were maximal (500–1000 nmol l⁻¹) in river waters and in tidal creeks at low tide, and minimal in the lagoon at high tide (<50 nmol l⁻¹). The major CH₄ sources are continental waters and the tidal pumping of sediment pore waters at low tide. Methanogenesis occurred in the tidal flat sediments, in which pore water concentrations were relatively high (2.5–8.0 μmol l⁻¹). Nevertheless, the sediment was a minor CH₄ source for the water column and the atmosphere because of a high degree of anaerobic and aerobic CH₄ oxidation in sediments. Atmospheric CH₄ fluxes at high and low tide were low compared to freshwater wetlands. Temperate tidal lagoons appear to be very minor contributor of CH₄ to global atmosphere and to open ocean.     

A real-time, event-triggered storm surge forecasting system for the state of North Carolina

A new real-time, event-triggered storm surge prediction system has been developed for the State of North Carolina to assist emergency managers, policy-makers and other government officials with evacuation planning, decision-making and resource deployment during tropical storm landfall and flood inundation events. The North Carolina Forecast System (NCFS) was designed and built to provide a rapid response assessment of hurricane threat, accomplished by driving a high-resolution, two-dimensional, depth-integrated version of the ADCIRC (Advanced Circulation) coastal ocean model with winds from a synthetic asymmetric gradient wind vortex. These parametric winds, calculated at exact finite-element mesh node locations and directly coupled to the ocean model at every time step, are generated from National Hurricane Center (NHC) forecast advisories the moment they are inserted into the real-time weather data stream, maximizing the number of hours of forecast utility. Tidal harmonic constituents are prescribed at the open water boundaries and applied as tidal potentials in the interior of the ocean model domain. A directional surface roughness parameterization that modulates the wind speed at a given location based on the types of land cover encountered upwind, a forest canopy sheltering effect, and a spatially varying distribution of Manning’s–n friction coefficient used for computing the bottom/channel bed friction are also included in the storm surge model. Comparisons of the simulated wind speeds and phases against their real meteorological counterparts, of model elevations against actual sea surface elevations measured by NOAA tide gauges along the NC coast, and of simulated depth-averaged current velocities against Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) data, indicate that this new system produces remarkably realistic predictions of winds and storm surge.     

Hydrodynamic response of the Breton Sound estuary to pulsed Mississippi River inputs

Pulsed re-introduction of Mississippi River water into the deltaic plain has been proposed as a wetland restoration strategy for coastal Louisiana. In this study, the hydrodynamic response of the Breton Sound estuary to a two-week pulse of Mississippi River water via the Caernarvon river diversion structure was investigated using a barotropic, three-dimensional, Finite-Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM). The numerical model was driven by tidal and subtidal forcing at the open Gulf boundary, freshwater discharge from the Caernarvon river diversion structure, as well as wind stress at the water surface. After successfully validating the model with field observations, three numerical experiments were run to assess the response of current, water level, and marsh flooding to different diversion discharge scenarios. The three scenarios considered were: a pulsed scenario of ∼200 m³ s⁻¹ corresponding to the actual diversion discharge in March 2001, a constant discharge scenario of 40 m³ s⁻¹ corresponding to the annually averaged discharge of 2001, and a scenario with no discharge. Numerical simulation results indicated that constant 40 m³ s⁻¹ discharge caused little change in wetland inundation comparing to the no discharge case and, thus, inter-exchange between deep channels and the wetlands was not improved by this rate of diversion discharge. In contrast, the two-week ∼200 m³ s⁻¹ discharge caused enhanced water exchange between wetlands and adjacent water bodies, substantially increasing water velocity in the bayous and channels of the upper estuary. These effects occurred in the estuary to about 20–25 km from the diversion structure, and caused a noticeable increase in down-estuary residual current with a significant reduction of local estuarine residence times for the whole estuary. Beyond 30 km from the diversion structure, the impact of high water discharge was small and the hydrodynamics was mostly controlled by tides and wind.     

Very small waves and associated sediment resuspension on an estuarine intertidal flat

Field data from a microtidal estuarine intertidal flat (Tamaki estuary, New Zealand) are used to analyse very small waves (height <10 cm; period 1.0–1.8 s) and associated sediment resuspension under light winds. Mean spectral period at the bed varied over the tidal cycle, driven by changes in surface-wave spectrum and depth-attenuation of orbital motions. Wave-orbital currents exceeded 30 cm/s, disturbing the fine-sand (100–200 μm) matrix of the seabed and resulting in the release of fine silt (particle size <20 μm) at concentrations >120 mg/L. Resuspension was initiated when ∼40% of the maximum zero-downcrossing orbital speeds in a burst exceeded the critical speed for initiation of sediment motion. Sediment concentrations were highest around low tide, when waves were smaller compared to high tide because of a reduced fetch but depth-attenuation of orbital motions was less because the water was shallower. Wave period exerted a control on sediment resuspension through the wave friction factor. There was a hysteresis in the wave Reynolds number such that it was greater on the ebbing tide compared to on the flooding tide: since it did not exceed 3 × 10⁵ the bed was hydraulically smooth, and the wave friction factor therefore is inversely proportional to wave period. Hence, the tidal-cycle hysteresis in wave Reynolds number translated into a smaller wave friction factor on the ebbing tide, and accounting for this caused the ebb and flood sediment concentration data to collapse onto one curve when plotted against wave-induced skin friction. A simple model is presented to evaluate the relative contribution to sediment resuspension of waves associated with weak and strong winds. At the base of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 5% of the inundation time), waves associated with stronger, infrequent winds dominate resuspension. At the top of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 30% of the inundation time), waves associated with lighter, frequent winds dominate resuspension. Moderate winds – neither the strongest nor most frequently occurring – dominate resuspension integrated across the profile. The mass of sediment resuspended by waves is greatest towards the top of the flat: shoreward of this, resuspension is smaller because of wave dissipation; seaward of this, resuspension is smaller because of greater depth-attenuation of orbital motions. The location of maximum sediment mass resuspended by waves and the location of maximum duration of resuspension are not necessarily the same.     

Particle flux across the mid-European continental margin

Results are presented from particle flux studies using sediment trap and current meter moorings along a transect at the European continental margin at 49°N within the EU-funded Ocean Margin Exchange (OMEX) project. Two moorings were placed, at the mid- and outer slope in water depths of 1500 and 3660 m, with traps at 600 and 1050 m and at 580, 1440 and 3220 m, respectively. Residual currents at the mid-slope follow the slope contour, whereas seasonal off-slope flow was registered at the outer slope. At 600 m on the slope fluxes are similar to those in the abyssal North Atlantic. The flux of all components (bulk dry weight, particulate organic and inorganic carbon, lithogenic matter and opal) increased with water depth. Highest fluxes were recorded at 1440 m at the outer slope, where off-slope residual currents mediate particle export. The injection of biogenic and lithogenic particles below the depth of winter mixing results in the export of particles from shallower waters. Calculated lateral fluxes of particulate organic carbon exceed the primary flux by over a factor of 2 at 1440 m on the outer slope. Estimated lateral fluxes of suspended particulate matter in the water column and intermediate nepheloid layers at the outer slope are potentially large compared to sinking fluxes measured by sediment traps. A comparison is made of particle flux at three continental margin sites and two sites in the adjacent open North Atlantic, from which it is seen that bulk and organic matter flux increases exponentially with proximity to the shelf break. The percentage contribution of particulate organic carbon to biogenic fluxes increases from a mean of 5.7% in the abyssal N. Atlantic to 13.9% at the continental margins.     

胶州湾高分辨率三维风暴潮漫滩数值模拟

基于海表气压项改进的FVCOM(Finite-Volume Coastal Ocean Model)海洋模式,研发胶州湾高分辨率三维风暴潮漫滩数值模式(JS-FVCOM).利用 JS-FVCOM 模式通过对天文潮、台风强度和径流3要素的不同组合,共设计了5个试验,分别进行风暴潮漫滩模拟实验.分析各试验结果得到如下结论:(1)随着台风最大风速的增加,风暴潮增水迅速增加,当综合水位超过防潮堤高程后增水速度明显减慢.海水淹没范围和淹没深度受综合水位超防潮堤高程时间影响明显.(2)在入海河流的河口区,当洪水位与高潮位相遇时,由于高潮位的顶托作用,洪水下泄不畅,造成综合水位上升明显,极易发生海水漫溢现象.JS-FVCOM 的模拟结果清楚地再现了海水漫堤的淹没过程,可为紧急情况下的人员疏散提供科学的基础数据.     

Changes in water quality following tidal inundation of coastal lowland acid sulfate soil landscapes

This study examines the remediation of surface water quality in a severely degraded coastal acid sulfate soil landscape. The remediation strategy consisted of partial restoration of marine tidal exchange within estuarine creeks and incremental tidal inundation of acidified soils, plus strategic liming of drainage waters. Time-series water quality and climatic data collected over 5 years were analysed to assess changes in water quality due to this remediation strategy. A time-weighted rainfall function (TWR) was generated from daily rainfall data to integrate the effects of antecedent rainfall on shallow groundwater levels in a way that was relevant to acid export dynamics. Significant increases in mean pH were evident over time at multiple monitoring sites. Regression analysis at multiple sites revealed a temporal progression of change in significant relationships between mean daily electrical conductivity (EC) vs. mean daily pH, and TWR vs. mean daily pH. These data demonstrate a substantial decrease over time in the magnitude of creek acidification per given quantity of antecedent rainfall. Data also show considerable increase in soil pH (2–3 units) in formerly acidified areas subject to tidal inundation. This coincides with a decrease in soil pe, indicating stronger reducing conditions. These observations suggest a fundamental shift has occurred in sediment geochemistry in favour of proton-consuming reductive processes. Combined, these data highlight the potential effectiveness of marine tidal inundation as a landscape-scale acid sulfate soil remediation strategy.     

Visualising the spatial extent of predicted coastal zone inundation due to sea level rise in south-west Western Australia

Visualising coastal zone inundation is crucial for both a quick assessment of coastal vulnerability and a full understanding of possible implications to population, infrastructure and environment. This study presents a simple but effective method of assessing the spatial extent of coastal zone inundation due to predicted sea level rise using commonly available elevation and image data as well as GIS software. The method is based on the geometrical principle of matching the raised sea level with the corresponding elevation contour line on land. Results for a test area along the south-west coast of Western Australia (∼200 km of coast line) show that a sea level rise of less than 0.5 m over the 21st century will have only minor impact but will become important when added to an extreme sea level event (e.g. storm surge). Both century-scale (∼0.5 m) based on tide gauge records and larger (>few metres) longer-term sea level rise predictions based on the melt of ice covered areas show essentially the same areas that are most vulnerable. Furthermore, the effectiveness of the method is demonstrated by the detection of areas that can be protected by relatively small flood protective structures at river and estuary entrances, thus providing valuable information for policy makers and local councils.     

考虑溢流条件下的核电厂址风暴潮模拟与研究

基于ADCIRC建立了三门湾风暴潮模型,模型模拟结果与实测数据吻合较好。以可能最大热带气旋参数为基础构建了多种假想台风路径来计算三门核电厂址处的可能最大风暴潮增水。结果表明,NW向登陆且距离核电厂址左侧为R(最大风速半径)时的假想台风使得三门核电厂址处的增水达到最大,风暴潮增水最大值为4.58 m。将可能最大风暴潮增水叠加天文高潮位进行计算,厂址前沿处水位达到了7.75 m,而三门湾顶附近的最高水位已经达到9 m,超出了三门湾沿岸海堤高程。将三门湾沿岸陆地依照高程概化为计算区域进行漫堤计算,当天文高潮位叠加可能最大风暴潮水位时,三门湾沿岸会发生漫堤溢流现象,淹没范围最严重的区域出现在湾顶处,最大淹没面积达到了120 km2。此时厂址前沿最高潮位为7.25 m,与不溢流相比下降了0.50 m。本研究可为三门核电厂址的安全防护提供科学依据。     

Water transport at subtidal frequencies in the Marsdiep inlet

Long-term time series of subtidal water transport in the 4-km wide Marsdiep tidal inlet in the western Dutch Wadden Sea have been analysed. Velocity data were obtained between 1998 and the end of 2002 with an acoustic Doppler current profiler that was mounted under the hull of the ferry ‘Schulpengat’. Velocities were integrated over the cross-section and low-pass filtered to yield subtidal water transport. A simple analytical model of the connected Marsdiep and Vlie tidal basins was extended to include wind stress and water-level and density gradients and applied to the time series of subtidal water transport. In accordance with the observations, the model calculates a mean throughflow from the Vlie to the Marsdiep basin. The mean water transport through the Marsdiep inlet consists of an export due to tidal stresses and freshwater discharge and an import due to southwesterly winds. In contrast, the variability in the subtidal water transport is mainly governed by wind stress. In particular, southwesterly winds that blow along the main axis of the Marsdiep basin force a throughflow from the Marsdiep to the Vlie basin, whereas northwesterly winds that blow along the main axis of the Vlie basin force a smaller mean water transport in the opposite direction. The contribution of remote sea-level change to the water transport, or coastal sea-level pumping, has been found to be much smaller than the contribution of local wind stress.     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

Field studies of velocity,salinity and suspended solids concentration in a shallow tidal channel near tidal flap gates

The design and operation of mathematical models of solute mixing and sediment transport in estuaries rely heavily on the provision of good-quality field data. We present some observations of salinity, suspended sediment concentration and velocity at one of the tidal limits of a semi-enclosed tidal lagoon in Southern England (Pagham Harbour, West Sussex, UK) where the natural processes of tidal incursion and solute mixing have been heavily modified as a result of the construction of sea walls dating back to the 18th Century. These observations, made immediately downstream of two parallel tidal flap gates by conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) profiler, and also using bed-mounted sensor frames to measure velocity at 2 fixed depths, have yielded a set of results covering 11 tidal cycles over the period 2002–04. It is clear from the results obtained that over a typical tidal cycle, the greatest vertical salinity gradients occur in the 1–2 h immediately after the onset of the flood tide, and that subsequently, energetic mixing acts to rapidly break down this stratification. Under moderate-to-high fresh water flows (>0.5 m³/s), the break-down in vertical salinity gradient is more gradual, while under low fresh water flows (<0.2 m³/s), the vertical salinity gradient is generally less pronounced. Estimates of Richardson number during the early flood-tide period reveal values that vary rapidly between <1 and about 20, with lower values occurring after around 1.5–2 h after low water. Observations of suspended sediment concentration vary widely even for similar tidal and fresh water flow conditions, revealing the possible influence of wind speed, the storage effects of the water in the lagoon downstream of the observation site, and the complexity of the hydrodynamics downstream of tidal flap gates. The data also show that most of the sediment transport is landward, and occurs during flood tides, with estimated total tidal landward flood tide flux of fine sediment of the order of 50–120 kg under low fresh water flow conditions. These observations, which reinforce the results presented in Warner et al. (2004) and elsewhere, can help to provide information about the appropriate techniques for managing sediments and pollutants, including nutrients from sewage effluent waters, in estuaries where hydraulic flap gates are used to control the entry of fresh water over the tidal cycle.     

Reconstruction of Hurricane Katrina's wind fields for storm surge and wave hindcasting

As the most costly US natural disaster in history, Hurricane Katrina fostered the IPET forensic study to better understand the event. All available observations from several hundred space-, land-, sea-, and aircraft-based measurement platforms were gathered and processed to a common framework for height, exposure, and averaging time, to produce a series of wind field snapshots at 3 h intervals to depict the wind structure of Katrina when in the Gulf of Mexico. The stepped-frequency microwave radiometer was calibrated against GPS sondes to establish the upper range of the instrument and then used to determine the wind field in the storm's core region in concert with airborne Doppler radar winds adjusted to the surface from near the top of the PBL (500 m). The SFMR data were used to develop a method to estimate surface winds from 3 km level reconnaissance aircraft observations, taking into consideration the observed azimuthal variation of the reduction factor. The “SFMR method” was used to adjust reconnaissance flight-level measurements to the surface in the core region when SFMR and Doppler winds were not available. A variety of coastal and inland mesonet data were employed, including portable towers deployed by Texas Tech University, University of Louisiana at Monroe, and the Florida Coastal Monitoring Program, as well as fixed mesonet stations from Louisiana State Universities Marine Consortium, University of Southern Mississippi, and Agricultural Networks from Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama, and the Coastal Estuarine Network of Alabama and Mississippi. Also included were land- (WSR-88D VAD and GBVTD, ASOS, Metar, LLWAS, HANDAR), space- (QuikScat, GOES cloud drift winds, WindSat), and marine- (GPS sondes, Buoys, C-MAN, ships) platforms. The wind fields serve as an analysis of record and were used to provide forcing for wave and storm surge models to produce hindcasts of water levels in the vicinity of flood control structures.     

风暴潮、大潮对广西涠洲岛西南沙滩侵蚀的影响分析

本文统计分析了广西涠洲岛沿海气候、潮汐和风暴潮等历史资料,利用耿贝尔方法推算了涠洲岛多年一遇年极值高潮位,并估算了其漫滩范围分布,指出近几年高潮位出现的频次和极值均越来越高是涠洲岛西南部沙滩侵蚀愈加严重的重要原因,最后结合风暴潮-海浪耦合数值模拟了研究区域内"0312"号台风风暴潮漫滩的情况,分析了风暴潮和大潮对涠洲岛西南部沙滩侵蚀的影响,对当地岸滩修复和防护具有一定的指导意义。     

The effect of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation in Charleston Harbor during Hurricane Hugo 1989

The effects of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal regions are examined by using a three-dimensional (3-D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3-D storm surge and inundation modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton ocean model (POM), whereas the wave modeling component is based on the third-generation wave model, simulating waves nearshore (SWAN). The results indicate that the effects of wave-induced surface, bottom, and radiation stresses can separately or in combination produce significant changes in storm surge and inundation. The effects of waves vary spatially. In some areas, the contribution of waves to peak storm surge during Hurricane Hugo reached as high as 0.76 m which led to substantial changes in the inundation and drying areas simulated by the storm surge model.     

A ten-year data set for fetch- and depth-limited wave growth

This paper presents the key results from a ten-year data set for Lake IJssel and Lake Sloten in The Netherlands, containing information on wind, storm surges and waves, supplemented with SWAN 40.51 wave model results. The wind speeds U₁₀, effective fetches x and water depths d for the data set ranged from 0–24 m s^− 1, 0.8–25 km and 1.2–6 m respectively. For locations with non-sloping bottoms, the range in non-dimensional fetch x? ( = gxU₁₀^− 2) was about 25–80,000, while the range in dimensionless depth d? ( = g d U₁₀^− 2) was about 0.03–1.7. Land–water wind speed differences were much smaller than the roughness differences would suggest. Part of this seems due to thermal stability effects, which even play a role during near-gale force winds. For storm surges, a spectral response analysis showed that Lake IJssel has several resonant peaks at time scales of order 1 h. As for the waves, wave steepnesses and dimensionless wave heights H? ( = gH_m0U₁₀^− 2) agreed reasonably well with parametric growth curves, although there is no single curve to which the present data fit best for all cases. For strongly depth-limited waves, the extreme values of d? (0.03) and H_m0 / d (0.44) at the 1.7 m deep Lake Sloten were very close to the extremes found in Lake George, Australia. For the 5 m deep Lake IJssel, values of H_m0 / d were higher than the depth-limited asymptotes of parametric wave growth curves. The wave model test cases of this study demonstrated that SWAN underestimates H_m0 for depth-limited waves and that spectral details (enhanced peak, secondary humps) were not well reproduced from H_m0 / d = 0.2–0.3 on. SWAN also underestimated the quick wave response (within 0.3–1 h) to sudden wind increases. For the remaining cases, the new [Van der Westhuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., and Battjes, J.A., 2007. Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water, Coast. Eng., 54, 151–170] SWAN physics yielded better results than the standard physics of Komen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., Hasselmann, K., 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 14, 1271–1285, except for persistent overestimations that were found for short fetches. The present data set contains many interesting cases for detailed model validation and for further studies into the evolution of wind waves in shallow lakes.