水流中波浪绕射折射数值计算与分析

提出了水深与流场缓变水域波浪传播数学模型－水流中依赖时间变量并考虑能耗的波浪“缓坡方程”及其等价的控制方程组,分析比较了无不流情况此理论模型与其相庆的两种抛物线型的差别,同时讨论了水流对波浪计算结果的影响。部分计算实例表明：该模型较其他模型能更好地适应河口三角洲大范围水域的波浪传播变形数值计算,且在强流河口呼近岸地区必须考虑水流对波浪影响,否则计算结果将严重失真。     

利用波能平衡方程研究波浪折射——绕射的数学模型及数值模拟

波能平衡方程是研究风浪要素及波能传播问题的很有效的方法，计算较为简单，在海洋学及海岸动力学中得到广泛的应用。本文采用考虑波能侧向传递机制和耗损制约的波能平衡方程组作为研究波浪折射——绕射变形的控制方程。对数学模型用差分法进行了数值模拟，并用两个例题进行了验证     

海浪能量谱的折绕射研究——Ⅱ.缓坡破碎带联合模型

海浪自深水向海岸传播时,水深逐渐变浅,海浪传播的速度、波长、波高和波形也随之变化.当深度浅至一定程度时,通常发生不同形式的波浪破碎,形成水流涌上岸滩,继而流回水中。波破碎时,水质点水平速度增大,并伴有强烈的搅拌作用。因此,波破碎对水工建筑物的作用、泥沙搬运、环境保护、海区自净能力计算都是很重要的。     

多向不规则波绕射的数值模拟

采用有限元求解Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程数值计算模型,对单突堤和双突堤的波浪绕射进行了数值模拟,并与物模试验进行对比验证。模拟结果表明入射波浪的方向分布对波浪的绕射具有明显的影响,使防波堤后的波浪增大,开阔区域的浪浪减小,波浪的方向分布对港内波浪的分布具有一定的均化作用。     

缓坡非均匀流场中随机波传播的折绕射联合模型

文中导出缓坡非均匀流场中传播的随机波的谱密度分量的折射和折绕射联合模型,给出两种地形波流同线和斜交的、不同流速值的顺、逆流传播波动的数值解.论述随机波在地形和流共同作用下的传播规律.在不同情况下我们推荐了应用折射或折绕射联合模型计算的方法.     

水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算

采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。     

港池中波浪折射、绕射的数值模拟方法

从流体运动方程和动量方程出发,引入海底摩擦力和港池不完全反射作用,推导出了Berkhoff折射、绕射方程。在深海部分解析方法用精确解(含待定系数)、在复杂地形用数值离散方法求解,中间过度段用的光滑匹配将离散数值(有限元)和解析解(精确解)一同求解。通过极值问题建立泛函,利用泛函的驻定性将海岸(港湾)问题进行数值离散,建立了可行的数值模拟模型。     

海浪能量方向分布形式对近岸波折绕射计算的影响

本文考虑海浪能量在方向上的分布，结合组成波折绕射控制方程组，建立了海浪方向谱的折绕射联合模型，并在简单地形上实施数值计算，比较简单波及折绕射的计算结果，表明：考虑海浪能量的方向分布，能减弱波动能量辐聚、辐散的程序，改变辐聚、辐散的位置。     

利用波浪折绕射模型和风浪成长公式计算临港重现期波要素

本文通过波浪折绕射模型和浅水风浪成长公式的联合计算得到了杭州湾北岸海域的不同方向、不同重现期和不同水位条件下的波浪场分布,结果表明该海域以东向浪为主。描述了50年一遇、不同方向、不同水位条件下的波浪特征。     

变深区浅水波的绕射和折射计算

本文开发了基于射线理论的浅水波计算程序,提出了一种解决射线相交的简便方法.应用非线性长波方程,以波浪对圆柱形人工岛和海凹的绕射、折射及对坡岸的斜向入射为例,进行了数值计算.在变深区的开边界处,利用射线理论给定入射波,获得了与实际观测相吻合的结果.     

Approach to Calculating Methods of Wave Breaking Depth and Height

- Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability.     

四阶波动方程的有限体积元法

建立一类四阶色散耗散方程全离散有限体积元格式,并给出格式的收敛性和误差估计,同时还给出数值结果。     

Study on Wave Dissipation of the Structure Combined by Baffle and Submerged Breakwater

This paper proposes a structure combined by baffle and submerged breakwater (abbreviated to SCBSB in the following texts). Such a combined structure is conducive to the water exchange in the harbor, and has strong capability on wave dissipation. Our paper focuses on the discussion of two typical structures, i.e., the submerged baffle and rectangular breakwater combined with the upper baffle respectively, which are named as SCBSB1 and SCBSB2 for short. The eigenfunction method corrected by experimental results is used to investigate the wave dissipation characteristics. It shows that the calculated results agree well with the experimental data and the minimum value of the wave transmission coefficient can be obtained when the distance between the front and rear structures is from 1/4 to 1/2 of the incident wave length.     

Numerical Study on Breaking Criteria for Solitary Waves

Studies of the breaking criteria for solitary waves on a slope are presented in this paper. The boundary element method is used to model the processes of shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on various slopes. Empirical formulae that can be used to characterize the breaking of solitary waves are presented. These include the breaking index, the wave height, the water depth, and the maximum particle velocity at the point of breaking. Comparisons with the results of other researches are given.     

Computation of Wave Refraction-Diffraction with Error Vector Propagation Method

After modifying the basic computation model made by Panchang (1988), the error vector propagation (EVP) method has been adopted to compute the combined effects of water wave refraction and diffraction in the presence of reflection boundary. The results show that the present method is successful in restraining the noise in Panchang's solution. Compared to other numerical methods for the mild-slope wave equation, EVP method can both consider the influence of reflection and save computer memory and computing time.     

Wave Breaking Phenomena of Irregular Waves Combined with Opposing Current

- Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H/ d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/ L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.     

二维各向异性介质中三分量波动方程有限元法模拟

利用六面体单元和三线性插值函数 ,推导出在任意弹性各向异性介质中三维三分量波动方程所满足的有限元方程 ,同时给出也适用于矩形单元和双线性插值的二维三分量各向异性介质中的波动方程模拟的一般性公式 ,最后讨论两个数值模拟的结果。     

Numerical Study of Wave Diffraction Effect Introduced in the SWAN Model

New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions.Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance.Wave heights were compared in the four cases(with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra).The results agreed well with the measurements,especially for the broad directional spectra cases.The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding term.By introducing the diffraction term,the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed,especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases.Compared with the calculations without diffraction,the model with diffraction effect gave better results.     

A Whitecap Coverage Model Based on the Surface Slope For Criterion of Wave Breaking

Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking,a simple model for estimatingthe spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant,which is regarded as the whitecap coverge inthis paper,is analytically derived from the probability density of surface slope based on Gaussianstatistics.The resulting fraction is found depending on the fourth moment of wave spectum,m_4,as well asthe critical threshold of surface slope.By expressing the fourth moment in terms of the Neumannspectrum,a formula linking the fraction and wind speed for fully developed sea states is obtianed.Anotherformula relating the fraction to both wind speed and fetch(or duration)is achieved by expressing m_4 interms of the Krylov spectrum and applying the empirical relationships used in the SMB ocean wave pre-dicting technique.A comparison between these results and the field data of whitecap coverage collected byMonahan and O＇Muircheartuigh shows an encouraging agreement.     

Three-Dimensional Boundary Element Method Applied to Nonlinear Wave Transformation

For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves,in consid-eration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements,a combined boundary elements is appliedin this research.The method can be used to remove the transverse vibration due to the accumulation ofcomputational errors.A combined boundary condition of sponge layer and Sommerfeld radiation condi-tion is used to remove the reflected waves from the computing domain.By following the water particle onthe water surface,the third order Stokes wave transform is simulated by the numerical wave flume tech-nique.The computed results are in good agreement with theoretical ones.