三种设计波高计算方法比较

目前国际上设计波高的常用计算方法有三种:年最大波高法(Annual Maximum method)、波高阈值法(Peak-Over-Threshold method)和年N大波法(Annual-NLargest method)。利用澳大利亚悉尼观测站连续16年的实测资料和Gumbel概率分布函数对这三种方法进行分析和比较,选出一种比较好的计算方法。结果表明,由年最大波高法计算得到的设计波高值偏大,线性回归系数较小,均方误也较大;波高阈值法计算所得结果与阈值本身取值关系并不大,线性回归相关性也较好;年N大波法计算得到的设计波高与每年大波数量取值无关(N≥5时),均方误较小,线性回归相关性较好。因此,在这三种方法中,年N大波法更适合用来计算设计波高,建议每年大波数取5~6个。     

Re-evaluation and improvement of three commonly used bulk longshore sediment transport formulas

Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. Bulk LST formulas are routinely used in coastal management/engineering studies to assess LST rates and gradients. Over 50 years of research has resulted in several bulk LST formulas that have been tested with varying levels of rigour. In this study, the predictive skill of three of the most commonly used bulk LST formulas (CERC, Kamphuis and Bayram) is rigorously evaluated using the most extensive LST data set presently available. The calibration coefficients in the three formulas are improved using a least-squares optimization algorithm, resulting in a significant improvement in the predictive skill of all three formulas. The generality of the improved formulas is verified via the statistical methods of bootstrapping and cross-validation. While the performance of all three improved formulas is very similar, the improved Kamphuis formula performs best, followed by the improved Bayram formula.     

国内外7种常用南极被动微波海冰密集度产品的比较与评估

围绕国内外机构发布的南极被动微波海冰密集度产品（PM-SIC）的差异和精度问题,应用MODIS和Sentinel-1反演的海冰密集度,对德国不莱梅大学（产品UB-AMSR2/ASI）、美国冰雪数据中心（产品NSIDC-SSMIS/NT、NSIDC-SSMIS/CDR、NSIDC-AMSR2/NT2）、欧洲气象卫星应用组织海洋与海冰卫星应用中心（产品OSI-SAF/BR-BST）、国家卫星海洋应用中心（产品NSOAS-SMR/NT）和国家卫星气象中心（产品NSMC-MWRI/NT2）发布的7种南极海冰密集度产品进行比较与评估。结果表明：（1）NSIDC-SSMIS/NT与NSIDC-SSMIS/CDR海冰密集度具有较高的一致性（平均偏差为−0.08%,相关系数为0.99）,NSOAS-SMR/NT与NSIDC-AMSR2/NT2间的差异最大（平均偏差为−14.41%,相关系数为0.81）;（2）7种PM-SIC的变化趋势一致,NSOAS-SMR/NT和NSMC-MWRI/NT2与其他PM-SIC的偏差具有明显的季节性差异;（3）NSOAS-SMR/NT和NSMC-MWRI/NT2与其他PM-SIC均在印度洋扇区、别林斯高晋海和阿蒙森海扇区绝对偏差较大,在罗斯海扇区差异最小。偏差较大的区域主要分布在海冰边缘区及近陆地海域,在高密集度区域差异较小;（4）应用MODIS与Sentinel-1反演的海冰密集度对7种PM-SIC验证表明,NSMC-MWRI/NT2与验证数据的一致性最高。NSOAS-SMR/NT、UB-AMSR2/ASI和OSI-SAF/BR-BST海冰密集度偏低,而NSMC-MWRI/NT2、NSIDC-AMSR2/NT2、NSIDC-SSMIS/CDR和NSIDC-SSMIS/NT海冰密集度偏高。不同海冰密集度产品的比较与评估可为发展遥感反演算法、研制和应用高质量的海冰密集度产品,更好地监测南极海冰动态变化提供依据和参考。     

An investigation of methods commonly used for the selective removal and characterization of trace metals in sediments

The characterization of solid phase-associated transition metals is important in understanding solid—seawater interactions. This has proven to be a difficult problem because of the complex nature of most sediments and suspended particulate matter. Many chemical techniques have been proposed to describe sedimentary metal phases. Most rely on characterizing equivalent chemical reactivities from the various metal phases rather than the characterization of the actual physical phases with which the metals are associated. In this study, several of the most widely used trace metal extraction techniques are compared for many of the most commonly measured transition metals using a variety of naturally occurring major marine sediment types. All solid concentrations are normalized to total metal values as obtained by neutron activation and X-ray fluorescence analyses.One weak, four intermediate strength, and two strong metal extraction methods were studied individually. The weak method had the lowest degree of extraction efficiency, but dissolved all solid carbonate phases. Its probable inability to retain released metals quantitatively in solution is a major problem. Three of the four intermediate methods are similar. The other and simplest of the four methods (0.5 N HCl), released much lower amounts of most metals studied when compared to these other three. It cannot be classified as a weak method, however, as it does attack some moderately resistant solid phases. Only one of the other three intermediate methods (a reducing acetic acid solution), was relatively free from analytical difficulties and it is preferred for this reason. The two strong extraction methods are quite similar, with neither yielding total metal concentrations.A five-step sequential extraction scheme was also evaluated. The results were generally quite good, both with regard to metal phase fractionation and overall total extraction of available metals. Based on the results of this study, a sequential extraction scheme is a useful method for characterizing solid phase-associated transition metals.     

Effect of dispersion on impulsive waves

The generation and propagation of surface waves resulting from suddenly created disturbances over water surfaces is investigated. The initial boundary conditions defining the disturbance are given either by a velocity of the free surface, an initial elevation of the free surface or a pressure impulsively applied on the free surface. It is shown that the corresponding three forms of solutions are related by a simple time derivative. Linear solutions are obtained in the cases where the wave motion is assumed to be nondispersive, mildly dispersive and fully dispersive, as well as in the case where the motion is given by the method of stationary phase. Criteria are established to indicate the limit of validity of each method.     

Estimation of compaction in marine geological formations from engineering data commonly available

The compaction of Quaternary marine formations can be estimated (under the conditions stated in this paper) by comparing values of 1 + 2.7w, where w is the water content, a figure usually provided in engineering reports for bridges, harbours and such. The procedure is to compare values for an older formation with those for a younger one in the same area, or a past formation with present sediments.     

Active impulsive echo discrimination in shallow water by mappingtarget physics-derived features to classifiers

One of the most difficult challenges in shallow-water active sonar processing is false-alarm rate reduction via active classification. In impulsive-echo-range processing, an additional challenge is dealing with stochastic impulsive source variability. The goal of active classification is to remove as much clutter as possible while maintaining an acceptable detection performance. Clutter in this context refers to any non-target, threshold-crossing cluster event. In this paper, we present a clutter-reduction algorithm using an integrated pattern-recognition paradigm that spans a wide spectrum of signal and image processing-target physics, exploration of projection spaces, feature optimization, and mapping the decision architecture to the underlying good-feature distribution. This approach is analogous to a classify-before-detect strategy that utilizes multiple informations to arrive at the detection decision. After a thorough algorithm evaluation with real active sonar data, we achieved over an order of magnitude performance improvement in clutter reduction with our methodology over that of the baseline processing     

Haeundae Beach in Korea: Seasonal-to-decadal wave statistics and impulsive beach responses to typhoons

Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H _s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H _s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach.     

Water waves generated by an impulsive bed upthrust of a rectangular block

A theoretical and digital simulation on waves generated by an impulsive bed upthrust of a rectangular block with various ratios of length/width is presented. The two-dimensional fast Fourier transform (FFT) algorithm is used to obtain the water surface profile near the generation region. The three-dimensional pictures were constructed from an array of 256 × 256 pixel by using image processing. Comparison of the present three-dimensional results, with previously published two-dimensional results, indicates that for large length/width ratios, the water surface profile is quite similar at certain locations for a small time after the impulsive bed motion is completed. Generally, the water surface profiles deviate significantly from the two-dimensional results.     

Diagnostic investigation of impulsive pressures induced by plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches

This paper presents an integrated investigation of physical processes generating impulsive pressures under the action of plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches. This work is an extension of a recent investigation which suggested that wave impacts from plunging breakers acting on gravel beaches may be a key mechanism to enhance sediment mobilisation. In particular, comparisons of full scale laboratory measurements against model results from a well-validated phase/depth-resolving numerical model based on the Reynolds–Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations are presented. This represents the first attempt at comparison with such a tool against observed hydrodynamics on steep (slope~1/8) gravel beaches at prototype scale. In order to understand how impulsive pressures are generated under plunging waves, the numerical model is used to carry out a detailed investigation to examine the role of each of the acceleration terms in the momentum balance. Consistent with prior studies, numerical results show that under plunging breakers the local acceleration (∂u/∂t) alone cannot be used as a proxy for pressure gradients. However, the contribution of the third term (w∂u/∂z) of total acceleration is recognized for the first time and indicates that this term has an important role in both the induced pressure gradient and sediment mobilisation as induced by this particular type of breaking. Furthermore, results suggest that a parameterisation of the pressure gradient in terms of ∂u/∂t+u∂u/∂x, may not suffice when dealing with plunging breakers and hence there is a lack of a suitable parameterisation of this process in the present literature. Thus, for different types of breaking it may be necessary to consider a different characterisation of the pressure gradient toward the parameterisation of sediment transport inside the surf zone.     

Uncertainty tolerance in underwater acoustic signal processing

Because of the difficulties in accurately characterizing the statistical behavior of underwater acoustic channels, tolerance to uncertain statistical modeling is an important property for underwater acoustic signal processing procedures to possess. This paper provides an overview of a number of techniques developed in recent years that can be applied to provide uncertainty tolerance in underwater signal processing applications. In addition to a discussion of general concepts of uncertainty tolerance, specific methods for attaining tolerance to uncertainty in temporal/spatial statistics for procedures such as Wiener and matched filtering, time-delay estimation, sonar system design, and signal prediction are reviewed. Tolerance to uncertainty in amplitude statistics is also a key issue in underwater channels, and techniques for achieving this goal are discussed in the contexts of signal estimation, identification, and detection procedures.     

海洋飞沫参数化方案在台风数值模拟中的应用

海洋飞沫作为海气相互作用的重要因子, 在台风的发生、发展过程中扮演着重要角色.将Fairall和Andreas海洋飞沫参数化方案加入到WRF模式中对两个台风--"珊珊"、"桑美"进行了模拟, 以研究不同海洋飞沫参数化在WRF模式中对台风模拟效果的影响.结果表明, 加入Fairall方案后潜热通量、感热通量得到很大程度的加强, 使得台风的热力结构得以改变, 暖心结构十分明显, 从而影响了动力场结构.相对涡差解释了台风移动路径变化的原因, 热成散度、涡度以及水汽通量的改变影响了台风的强度.Andreas方案由于界面通量算法在考虑海表面动量粗糙度、热力粗糙度及水汽粗糙度随风速、相对湿度变化的情况下, 得到的潜热通量、感热通量较Fairall方案为弱, 因而台风的强度不强.飞沫参数化方案对模拟台风路径的影响较小.     

The need for a better characterization of a sediment commonly called “mud”

Of all known sediments “mud” is probably the one attracting the most attention today. It is certainly the only type of sediment being studied by investigators of a wide variety of scientific and technological disciplines. The experts in the latter category deal with it very actively because of the great number of problems that have emerged during the past decades as a consequences of the expansion of many harbors and of an increasing pollution of surface waters. Besides th geologist, for whom “mud” is the basic material for clay, shale, and slate, the sidementologist, hydraulic engineer, harbor-manager, soil scientist, biologist, the ecologist, and many other professionals are very much interested in this particular sediment. Indeed, its importance does not only lie in its geological meaning nor in the fact that it is a substratum for living organisms and vegetation, but as a result of its high adsorption and cation exchange capacity making it one of the most active carriers of many adsorbed pollutants, causing a troublesome, fast accumulating cohesive spoil in waterways accessing to major harbors.     

Marine reserve effects on population density and size structure of commonly and rarely exploited limpets in South Africa

Marine reserves are commonly used to conserve living resources, but their effectiveness where policing is difficult is unclear. We compared monthly population density and size structure data collected over 20 months for two rarely and two commonly exploited intertidal limpets inside and outside reserves in South Africa. Densities were greater inside reserves, but significantly so in very few months. Unexpectedly, no significant reserve effect was detected for the territorial Scutellastra longicosta, shown by surveys to be favoured by harvesters. Reserve effects for the rarely exploited S. granularis probably result from indirect effects of higher barnacle cover in reserves where trampling is reduced, while interviews indicated that Cellana capensis is not targeted but large individuals are sometimes misidentified and hence are harvested outside the reserve. There were few reserve effects on mean or mean maximum size. The results indicate a gradient of exploitation among species and sites. One non-reserve site was more heavily exploited than the other, while one reserve experienced more poaching than the other. The effectiveness of marine reserves thus differed between reserves and among species. Exploited limpets were generally larger and at higher densities in reserves, but these effects were rarely statistically significant, indicating that reserve effects are weak compared to natural variability, probably reflecting ineffective policing.     

救捞工程中爆炸充气气囊设计

将炸药爆炸燃烧所产生的高压气体作为气源,对气囊系统进行快速充气,利用充盈气囊所提供的浮力可完成对水下沉物的打捞。爆炸充气气囊是一种新型水下打捞作业器材,介绍了它的工作原理、系统组成及功能、性能特点和实际应用情况等,对于救捞工程作业具有重要的实用价值。     

A statistical theory of signal coherence

A periodic signal can be perfectly predicted far into the future since it perfectly repeats every period. There is always some variation in the waveform over time for signals which are labeled as periodic but which are not truly deterministic. A formal definition is presented in this paper for such a varying periodic signal and the properties of such a class of signals are exploited. A measure called a signal coherence function of the amount of random variation in each Fourier component of the signal is defined and its statistical properties are developed. This signal coherence function is very different from the coherence function between two stationary signals. The method is applied to a digitized record of an acoustic signal generated by a boat in a bag in the Baltic Sea south of Stockholm, Sweden     

Time-frequency signal analysis of hydrophone data

The acoustic spectrum of a transiting aircraft, when received by a hydrophone located beneath the sea surface, changes with time due to the acoustical Doppler effect. The traditional method for analysing signals whose frequency content changes with time is the short-time Fourier transform that selects only a short segment of the signal (or window of data) for spectral analysis at any one time. The short-time Fourier transform requires the frequency content of the signal to be stationary during the analysis window, otherwise the frequency information will be smeared by the transformation. Recently, joint time-frequency distributions, which highlight the temporal localisation of a signal's spectral components, have been used to analyse nonstationary signals whose spectra are time dependent. In this paper, the short-time Fourier transform and the Wigner-Ville time-frequency distribution are applied to time-series data from a hydrophone so that the instantaneous frequency of the propeller blade rate of a turbo-prop aircraft can be estimated at short time intervals during the aircraft's transit over the hydrophone. The variation with time of the estimates of the Doppler-shifted blade rate is then compared with the corresponding temporal variation predicted using a model that assumes the sound propagates from the airborne acoustic source to the subsurface receiver through two distinct isospeed media (air and water) separated by a plane boundary (the air-sea interface). The results for five transits are presented in which the altitude of the aircraft ranged from 350 to 6050 ft with the speed of the aircraft varying from 232 to 245 kn     

Measurement of the signal to noise ratio in seismic profiling

The measurement of the signal to noise ratio in continuous seismic profiling systems is carried out by means of a small general purpose digital computer equipped with an analog to digital converter. The computer is programmed to compute and compare the power spectrum of a sample of noise to the power spectrum of a sample of noise plus an echo. Power spectra of some twenty to fifty shots are averaged to yield reliable estimates of the signal to noise ratio as a function of frequency. The observed spectra agree well with spectra calculated from signals measured near to an air-gun. This measurement of signal to noise ratio as a function of frequency provides unambiguous information for the adjustment of the necessary band-pass filter thus improving the operation of a continuous seismic profiler.     

Characterizing impulsive wave-in-deck loads on coastal bridges by probabilistic models of impact maxima and rise times

When waves impact a seawall, a vertical breakwater, an exposed jetty, a pier or a coastal bridge, they abruptly transfer their momentum into the structure. This energy transfer can be very violent and its duration exceptionally short. In the case of coastal bridges, whose spans are designed to have very short vibration period, wave impacts might have duration comparable to the natural period of oscillation of the structure, which therefore becomes prone to damage and failure. Previous forensic studies have documented the relative importance of impulsive loads on deck suspended structure, demonstrating the need to assess the effect of wave impacts on both the stability and the integrity of structural members since the early stages of the design. This requires the estimation of the dynamic characteristics of the loading pattern, and in particular the wave impulse and corresponding impact maxima and rise times. Based on the conservation of momentum, functional relationships between these parameters have been identified since pioneering work dating back to the late '30s of the 20th century. The complexity of the loading process, however, results in a significantly large variability of wave impact maxima and rise times even under similar conditions, suggesting the need for a probabilistic approach to the definition of the relationship between these two variables, to be applied when estimating the dynamic properties of wave for use in structural analysis of coastal structures. In the recent past, some effort has been made to identify functional relationships between such quantities; these require the assessment of the conditional quantiles (or similarly the conditional distribution) of wave impact maxima given the rise times. In this paper, we compare three different statistical methods proposed in the literature to accomplish this task, in order to assess the reliability of the approach and suggest guidelines for practical applications. A copula-based method, Generalized Additive Models for Location, Scale and Shape (GAMLSS), and quantile regression are applied to measurements from large-scale 3-dimensional physical model tests. The investigation suggests that quantile regression gives the simplest results to be used in practice; copula approach and GAMLSS are possible alternative when semi-parametric or fully parametric modeling is needed.