Storm waves in Canadian waters: A major marine hazard

Abstract

In this paper, an overview of storm waves associated with intense weather systems affecting the east and west coasts of Canada is presented. The paper presents the wave climatology of the east and west coasts in terms of the 100‐year significant and maximum wave heights and further analyses the directional distribution of wave heights at selected locations in the Canadian east and west coasts offshore. The paper also analyses wave hazards associated with storm waves in the Beaufort Sea as well as the Canadian Great Lakes region. A section on ocean wave modelling provides a brief history of the development of ocean surface wave models and its present status. The paper further considers the impact of climate change scenarios on wave hazards and finally examines mitigation measures in terms of wave products available from operational wave models and related wave climatology.     

近60年来渤海海域波候变化及其与东亚环流的联系

研究海洋的波候变化是了解海洋动力过程对气候变迁响应的关键。渤海所处特殊的地理位置,使其波候在长期风场变化影响下存在阶段性变化特征。文章采用1950~2011年NCEP再分析资料中的渤海海域10 m风场资料,利用SWAN模式模拟逐月渤海波浪的有效波高、波向、波周期,分析该海区波候的变化特征。分析结果显示:1950~2011年期间渤海海域的有效波高呈现下降的趋势;波向角度均呈现上升的趋势,波周期相对平稳,略有上升;有效波高平均下降0.3 cm/a,波向角度平均增加0.12°/a。有效波高在1968年前后显现突变点,波向角度约在1960年突变,波周期在1965年左右出现突变点。渤海波候变化与海气振荡密切相关,是大尺度的大气环流变异导致的结果,长期气候变化背景下,东亚环流天气系统的长期变化(包括东亚季风强度、夏季风北界的移动,西太平洋副热带高压面积与强度的变化、脊点位置西伸与北进,以及西风指数的强弱变化等),是影响和控制渤海海域波气长期变化的主要原因。     

近64a阿勒泰市春季不同等级寒潮过程气候特征

本文整理出阿勒泰市64年各级别强度寒潮过程数据库，分析阿勒泰市近64a来各级别寒潮过程的频数以及强度相关6个指标的气候特征，结果表明：（1）1954～2017年春季阿勒泰市共发生一般寒潮过程109.5次，强寒潮过程75.5次，特强寒潮过程37.5次；平均每年春季分别发生1.7次、1.2次和0.6次；3种级别寒潮过程发生频次占寒潮过程发生总频次的48.2%、33.3%和16.5%，阿勒泰市春季主要以一般寒潮和强寒潮为主。（2）春季一般寒潮、强寒潮和特强寒潮过程频数年际变化均在递减，且不显著，其中4月一般寒潮和特强寒潮过程递增，特强寒潮过程频数递增明显；一般寒潮过程频数的年代际变化在1950年代最多，强寒潮过程1970年代最多，特强寒潮过程1960年代和2000-2009年代最多。（3）一般、强和特强寒潮过程持续时间分别在1～7d、1～6d和1～5d，均以持续1～3d为主，分别占各自寒潮过程总次数的94.5%、90.8%和90.0%，其中又都以持续2d最多。（4）一般寒潮、强寒潮和特强寒潮过程降温幅度平均值分别为-10.8℃、-13.0℃和-17.3℃，一般寒潮和强寒潮降温幅度均在5月最强，特强寒潮降温幅度在3月最强。（5）一般寒潮、强寒潮和特强寒潮降温过程最低气温平均值分别为-7.8℃、-12.8℃和-20.3℃，随时间的推移呈明显的抬升趋势。（6）1954～2017年阿勒泰市春季一般寒潮、强寒潮和特强寒潮中降温过程最低气温距平平均值分别为-5.7℃、-7.9℃和-10.5℃；三种级别寒潮过程最低气温距平为负值占该级别寒潮过程频数的比例分别为80.0%、97.4%和97.5%。     

0801号台风风浪场和涌浪场的数值模拟

利用美国国家海洋大气总局/美国国家环境预报中心（NOAA/NCEP）发布的最新版WAV-EWATCHⅢ（version3.14）海浪模式对0801号台风＂浣熊＂进行数值模拟,并在此基础上对台风浪的发展过程和台风影响下的海面有效波高、风浪场及涌浪场的分布特征进行分析。结果表明：海面有效波高的分布和演变受台风系统强度和移动的影响;台风过程中所产生的大浪主要为风浪;涌浪场的分布与风浪场的分布几乎相反,涌浪场基本分布在远离台风中心的外围海域;涌浪场波高比风浪场波高要小。     

Experimental study of nonlinear wave—wave interaction and white-cap dissipation of wind-generated waves

An experimental scheme was designed to obtain laboratory-scale verification of Hasselmann's nonlinear wave—wave interaction and white-cap dissipation theories. Water wave height and fluctuating air pressure were measured simultaneously in a fixed reference frame as a function of fetch in the Stanford Wind, Water-Wave Research Facility under the conditions of a steady wind and a stationary wave spectrum. All the data were obtained 5 mm above the highest point of the wind waves for five stations (3 m apart on average) and at three wind speeds (7.1, 8.0 and 8.9 m/sec). The wave height and fluctuating pressure were measured by a capacitance wave-height gauge and a crystal pressure transducer, respectively.Based on the experimental results, Hasselmann's nonlinear wave—wave interaction theory appears to be valid. Barnett's approximate parametric equation for calculating the energy transfer of nonlinear wave—wave interaction and Hasselmann's white-capping dissipation model were also verified and appeared to be applicable in the relatively low and intermediate frequency region of a wave spectrum for a normalized fetch range of 100–500. Based on the results of an overall energy balance in a gravity wind-wave spectrum, the nonlinear wave—wave interaction mechanism is shown to play a dominant role in the energy transfer processes after the wave spectrum is generated.     

On the three-dimensional internal waves excited in the flow of a linearly stratified Boussinesq fluid

Three-dimensional flow of a linearly stratified Boussinesq fluid is studied numerically. The flow is assumed to be confined in a rectangular channel and internal waves are excited by bottom topography. Near resonance of the first vertical internal wave mode, it was found that the reflection of the internal wave at the sidewall is ‘abnormal’ in the sense that the reflection angle is larger than the incident angle and a third wave perpendicular to the sidewall is generated. The waves become straight crested (two-dimensional) as this third wave becomes longer. The whole mechanism is similar to the ‘Mach reflection’ observed in the general stratified fluid in which the usual solitary waves are generated. In the case of the linearly stratified Boussinesq fluid, the abnormal reflection occurs even though the wave near the sidewall has a sinusoidal profile and not a sech² profile. This suggests that the abnormal reflections similar to Mach reflection always occur when the wave amplitude is large enough, irrespective of the wave profile.     

Effect of static stability on the pattern of three-dimensional baroclinic lee wave across a meso scale elliptical barrier

Summary In this paper, an attempt has been made to examine the effect of static stability on the pattern of three dimensional (3-D) baroclinic lee wave across a meso-scale elliptical barrier. For this purpose first a 3-D meso scale lee wave model has been developed. Then the model is applied to the Western Ghats (WG) using real time radio sonde data of Santacruz (19°7′N, 72°51′E) (here after SCZ), a station on the windward side of WG, on the days when dynamic and thermodynamic conditions of the atmosphere were favourable to generate lee waves. It is found that the pattern of 3-D baroclinic lee wave is very much sensitive to the value of the static stability parameter N². It is found that during southwest monsoon season trapped lee waves are convergent type (contours of perturbation vertical velocity w′ are crescent shaped convex down wind) and during winter they are divergent type (contours of w′ are crescent shaped concave down wind). The study shows that for a given profile of wind, the value of N² must exceed certain threshold value to obtain divergent type lee wave, otherwise convergent type lee waves are found. It is also found that in the southwest monsoon season, when atmosphere is neutrally stratified, a single divergent lee wave corresponds to a single transverse lee wave, whereas in the winter season, when atmosphere is strongly stratified, a single divergent lee wave corresponds to a number of transverse lee wave. Furthermore, in the former case long (or short) divergent lee wave corresponds to short (or long) transverse lee wave, whereas in the later case long (or short) divergent lee wave, in general, corresponds to long (or short) transverse lee wave. This revised version was published online in November 2004 with corrected captions of Figs. 1 and 2.     

On the Dependence of the Equilibrium Range of Sea Wave Spectra with Wave Age

Donelan and Pierson have proposed a semiphysical model of the equilibrium sea wave spectrum, based upon a parameterization of wave growth and dissipation terms. Their model is applicable for fully developed seas only. In the framework of Donelan and Pierson's approach, this paper explores the dependence of the equilibrium spectrum upon wave age. To this end, we examine how the dissipation through wave breaking is expected to vary with wave age, according to the approach proposed by Longuet-Higgins in 1969. The constraint imposed by Longuet-Higgins' theory requires an increase of the equilibrium spectrum F(k,0) in the wind direction with increasing inverse wave age U/C_p. This is in accordance with Banner's empirically deduced statement that F(k,0) is proportional to (U/C_p)^0.5 in the equilibrium range. Our inferred F(k,0) tends to increase more or less linearly with U/C_p (we find F(k,0) proportional to 1 + 0.25(U/C_p - 0.83), rather than through a power law. If a power law is fitted we obtain F(k,0) approximately proportional to (U/C_p)^0.35 for the range 0.83 < U/C_p > 5. Finally, the roughness length of the air-sea interface is inferred from our modelled spectrum through integration of the form drag over wave number under rough conditions. This shows a wave age dependence that is compatible with measurements of wind stress performed in the field at various wave ages.     

A case study of a wave-like cloud and gravity wave in the lower troposphere in Mizuho Plateau,Antarctica

A case study of a gravity wave is carried out with visual observations of cloud and low-level air soundings. The wave is well interpreted by the simple classical theory of a deep water wave. The observed frequency agrees with the Brunt-Väisälä frequency if the Doppler effect is considered.     

广西寒潮天气统计特征及环流形势分析

根据修订后的寒潮标准,对广西近46a的寒潮天气进行统计,并对典型寒潮年进行环流形势分析。结果表明:广西近46a出现了61次寒潮天气过程,其中全区性21次,桂北区域29次,桂南区域22次;广西寒潮最早出现在11月份,最迟出现在3月份,1月是寒潮出现的高峰月;出现寒潮频率的地域分布为东高西低;历年出现寒潮的总站数略呈下降趋势,并具有2年及11年左右的明显周期振荡特征。典型寒潮年环流分析表明当极涡南掉,东亚大槽加深,乌拉尔山脊维持,冬季风的加强及中纬度西风气流是导致冷空气堆积并爆发寒潮的主要环流形势。     

Tropical gravity-atmospheric long wave and the walker circulation

Orders of magnitude of terms related to earth’s rotation in linearized vorticity and divergence equations governing tropical large-scale motion are analysed. It is discovered that βyD and βyξ are smaller by one order than βv and βu respectively and then may be neglected. On this basis, tropical wave motions are discussed. It is found that there exists a kind of gravity-atmospheiic long waves which is non-vorticit atmospheric long wave, whereas the Kelvin wave is essentially the gravity-atmospheric long wave with its velocity being much lower than that of gravity. Computation shows that there also exists a kind of large-scale slow waves whose moving speed is lower by one order of magnitude than that of Kelvin wave. Such slow wave is likely to be the Walker Circulation.     

The north-south elongated solitary Rossby wave

As far as the author knows, the previous models of solitary Rossby wave have been restricted to the case of the east-west elongated one. However, now, it is shown by Yano and Tsujimura that the north-south elongated KdV-type solitary Rossby wave is also possible. In this note, a typical example of the north-south elongated elongated KdV-type solitary Rossby wave in the shallow water β-plane model is examined.The conventional east-west elongated solitary Rossby wave is governed by the KdV equation in the longitudinal direction at each latitude. The same is true for the case of the north-south elongated solitary Rossby wave. The main difference is that, however, the KdV-soliton defined at each latitude has drifted by the local phase velocity, which is different for each latitude. Hence, the wave pattern is deformed continuosly with time in the latitudinal direction, and the separable solution is not possible as is in the case of the east-west elongated solitary wave.     

The influence of sea waves on the wind profile

From wind profile and wave measurements performed during the JONSWAP II experiment, relations between the dimensionless profile slope and the significant wave height are derived. It is shown that the wind profile is distorted by the waves especially in the vicinity of the water surface. The wave influence on the profile seems to be restricted to heights below about three wave heights. Above this level, the dimensionless profile slope is an approximately constant value corresponding to a drag coefficient of about 1.15 × 10^–3.     

Analysis of potential impacts on coastal areas due to changes in wave conditions

This study examines the main physical processes related to coastal and port engineering that could be altered by future changes in wave parameters as a consequence of climate change. To estimate the order of magnitude of the potential changes in these processes, several assumptions and simplifications are made and, in most cases, they are assessed by using simple, empirical state-of-the-art expressions. The studied processes are grouped in three categories according to whether they affect beaches, harbors or coastal structures in general. The changes in these processes are estimated as a function of the deepwater variations of the main wave parameters: wave height (H ₀), wave period (T) and wave direction (θ ₀). A moderate range of variation is assumed for these parameters at deep water (±10 or ±20 % in H ₀ and its square root in T, and ±10º in θ ₀), taking into account recent studies of future wave projections. The results indicate that potential changes in wave height will strongly affect overtopping discharge, stability and scouring of rubble-mound structures and, to a lesser extent, siltation, wave transmission and longshore sediment transport. Changes in wave direction will affect longshore sediment transport in particular and, at a lower magnitude, processes related to port operability (agitation and siltation). Siltation is the only process affected significantly by changes in T alone.     

Spectral features of the energy transfer between internal waves and a larger-scale shear flow

Internal waves propagating in a larger-scale shear flow slowly change their amplitudes and wavenumbers. For moderate shear flows the secular effect of these changes reduces to a diffusion of wave action in wavenumber space. The diffusion coefficients are derived under the assumption that relaxation processes exist within the internal wave field. Associated with the diffusion of wave action is an energy transfer between the mean flow and the wave field. The wavenumber—frequency dependence of this energy transfer is evaluated for the Garrett and Munk (1975) spectral model. For this spectrum the transfer shows a characteristic +—+ signature with a weak source of internal wave energy at near-inertial frequencies, a weak sink at medium frequencies, and a strong source at high frequencies. The integrated energy transfer is from the mean flow to the internal wave field.     

The influence of atmospheric stratification on the growth of water waves

The atmospheric surface layer over sea has a density stratification which varies with moisture content and air/sea temperature difference. This influences the growth of water waves. To study the effect quantitatively, the Reynolds equations are solved numerically. For given wind speed and surface roughness, wave growth is found to be more rapid in unstably stratified conditions than in stable conditions. This is due to an increase in turbulence, primarily caused by an increase of mixing length.Under the assumption of a Charnock relation between surface roughness and friction velocity, it is found that for large inverse wave age (u _*/c>0.07), the effect of stratification on wave growth is weell described by Monin-Obukhov scaling of the friction velocity. For smaller values ofu _*/c, Monin-Obukhov scaling overpredicts.The effect on duration-limited wave growth is studied with the third-generation WAM surface wave model driven by 10 m winds. Effects of stratification on the significant wave height are found to be of the order of 10%. The results are comparable to those of a recent reanalysis of field measurements, although the measured stratification effect is somewhat stronger. Implementation of a stratification-dependent growth in wave models is recommended, as it can lead to small but significant improvements in wave forecasts when accurate air and sea temperatures are available.     

Wave-Modified Flux and Plume Dispersion in the Stable Boundary Layer

The effects of a pressure jump and a following internal gravity wave on turbulence and plume diffusion in the stable planetary boundary layer are examined. The pressure jump was accompanied by a sudden increase in turbulence and plume dispersion. The effects of wave perturbations on turbulence statistics are analysed by calculating fluxes and variances with and without the wave signal for averaging times ranging from 1 to 30 min. The wave signals are obtained using a band-pass filter. It is shown that second-order turbulence quantities calculated without first subtracting the wave perturbations from the time are greater than those calculated when the wave signal is separated from the turbulence. Estimates of the vertical dispersion of an elevated tracer plume in the stable boundary layer are made using an elastic backscatter lidar. Plume dispersion observed 25 m downwind of the source increases rapidly with the arrival of the flow disturbances. Measured plume dispersion and plume centreline height correlate with the standard deviation of the vertical velocity but not with the wave signal.     

A global analysis of austral summer ocean wave variability during SAM–ENSO phase combinations

Anticipating and mitigating wave-related hazards rely heavily on understanding wave variability drivers. Here, we describe wave conditions related to concurrent Southern Annular Mode (SAM) and El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) phases during the austral summer. To identify such conditions, significant wave height (Hs) and peak wave period (Tp) daily anomalies were composited during different SAM–ENSO phase combinations over the last four decades (1979–2018). Surface wind anomalies were also composited to assist in the interpretation of wave conditions. The composites show significant wave variability across all ocean basins and in several semi-enclosed seas throughout the different SAM–ENSO phase combinations. The Southern, Indian, and Pacific Oceans generally experience the strongest Tp anomalies during combinations of SAM phases with El Niño, and the weakest Tp anomalies during combinations of SAM phases with La Niña. The anomalously large waves observed in the south-western Pacific, Tasman Sea, and the Southern Ocean, previously ascribed to ENSO conditions, seem to be instead associated with the SAM variability. SAM-related atmospheric conditions are found to be able to modulate the intensity of ENSO-related winds over the South China Sea, which, in turn, alter the magnitude of waves in that region. These and other wave anomaly structures described here, especially those contrasting the behaviour expected for a given ENSO phase, such as the one found along the California coast, stress the importance of understanding relationships between wave parameters and climate patterns interactions.     

The structure and propagation of stationary planetary wave packet in the barotropic atmosphere

Monthly or seasonally mean anomalies of large-scale atmospheric circulation are better represented by wave packets or their combination. Both qualitative and quantitative analyses of equations of wave packet dynamics, which are obtained by the use of WKB approximation, are very helpful for the understanding of structure, formation and propagation of stationary and quasi-stationary planetary wave packet patterns in the atmosphere. Indeed, these equations of wave packet dynamics can be directly solved by the method of characteristic lines, and the results can be simply and clearly interpreted by physical laws. In this paper, a quasi-geostrophic barotropic model is taken for simplicity, and the wave packets superimposed on several ideal profiles of the basic current and excited by some ideal forcings are investigated in order to make comparison of the accuracy of calculation with the analytical solution. It is revealed that (a) the rays of stationary planetary wave packet do not coincide with but go away from the great circle with significant difference if the shear of the basic zonal flow is not too small; (b) being superimposed on a westerly jet flow with positive shear (Uλ/y>0), the stationary wave packets excited by low-latitudinal forcing are first intensified during their northeastward propagation in the Northern Hemisphere, then reach their maximum of amplitude at some critical latitude, and after that weaken again; (c) the connected line of extremes (the positive and negative centres) of wave packet does not coincide with but crosses the ray by an angle, the larger the scale of external forcing, the larger the angle; and (d) the whole pattern of a trapped stationary wave packet is complicated by the interference between the incident and reflected waves.     

Frequency and directional evaluation of the ocean data gathering program (ODGP) wave spectra at Hibernia

Abstract

The frequency and directional wave‐modelling capability of the Ocean Data Gathering Program (ODGP) deep water spectral wave model is assessed through comparison with WAVEC data gathered at Hibernia. Both qualitative and quantitative analyses indicate better agreement with observations during storms and with the wind‐driven component of the wave spectra. There is statistically poor modelling of the swell. A coherence analysis on derived wave vectors indicates that the ODGP model does not simulate geophysical variability with time‐scales less than about 30 h for overall spectral energy and less than 24 h for wave energy of frequency greater than 0.6 rad s^?1 (0.095 Hz). The signals associated with swell waves are incoherent at nearly all time‐scales.