Stability analysis of a two-inlet bay system

The stability analysis for a double-inlet bay system is applied to an inlet system resembling Big Marco Pass and Capri Pass on the lower west coast of Florida. Since the opening of Capri Pass in 1967, the length of Big Marco Pass has increased from 2000 m in 1967 to 3000 m in 1988 and the cross-sectional area has decreased from 1200 m² in 1967 to 1000 m² in 1988. Since 1967, the cross-sectional area of Capri Pass has steadily increased and in 1988 was 700 m². Tides off the inlets are of the mixed type with a diurnal range of 1 m. The gross littoral transport rate in the vicinity of the inlets is estimated at 150,000 m³ yr⁻¹.For each inlet the maximum tidal velocities are calculated as a function of the gorge cross-sectional areas using a lumped-parameter model to describe the hydrodynamics of the flow. In the model it is assumed that the bay level fluctuates uniformly and the bay surface area remains constant. The velocities are used to calculate the tidal maximum of the bottom shear stress in each inlet as a function of the cross-sectional areas of the two inlets (=closure surface). Values of the equilibrium shear stress are derived from an empirical relationship between cross-sectional area and tidal prism for stable inlets along the west coast of Florida. Closure surfaces and equilibrium stress values are calculated for values of friction factors ranging from F=4×10⁻³ to F=6×10⁻³. Using the closure surfaces and equilibrium stress values, the equilibrium flow curve for each inlet is determined. The equilibrium flow curve represents the locus of the combination of cross-sectional areas for which the actual bottom shear stress in the inlet equals the equilibrium shear stress.Based on the equilibrium flow curves and the known values of the cross-sectional areas of the two inlets in 1988, it is expected that, ultimately, Big Marco Pass will close and Capri Pass will remain as the sole inlet with a cross-sectional area of 1250 m² and a maximum tidal velocity pertaining to a diurnal tide of 0.85 m s⁻¹.     

Stability of tidal inlets—Pass Cavallo,Texas

Many tidal inlets are scoured in loose granular material, and the morphological changes in these inlets are discussed. The changes are the result of the predominantly fortnightly variations in the tide, the seasonal variations in storm activity and the occurrence of extreme meteorological events. The adjustment of an inlet to changes in the hydraulic environment and sudden changes in its morphology associated with extreme meteorological events is primarily via a change in the cross-sectional area. For a single-inlet bay system, the response of the inlet cross-sectional area can be determined using the stability analysis presented by Escoffier (1940). Rather than one inlet, many bays are connected to the ocean by several inlets. In this study, Escoffier's analysis is expanded to include the interaction of these inlets. In the analysis, the sediment carrying capacity of the inlet currents is characterized by the bottom shear stress. The stability analysis is applied to Pass Cavallo, Texas. Assuming the absence of future influences of tropical storms and hurricanes, the analysis shows that as a result of the opening of a companion inlet, Pass Cavallo ultimately will close.     

A flood-dominated mesotidal inlet

Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier.     

A flood-dominated mesotidal inlet

Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier.     

滦河三角洲海岸潮汐汊道——潮盆体系的演变

近二千年以来，滦河尾闾从西向东迁移，形成了由不同时期的亚三角洲互相叠复而成三角洲体系。丰富的入海泥沙和弱潮环境使该三角洲海岸发育了我国较为完整的潮汐汊道——潮盆体系群。尽管滦河三角洲与密西西比河三角洲有诸多相异之处，但动力泥沙条件的某些相似性使它们的汊道潮盆体系的演变可以进行类比。研究表明，决定潮汐汊道——潮盆体系发育阶段的是它所在的亚三角洲的废弃年龄。从狼窝口到湖林口的各亚三角洲均处于演变的第一阶段。即以受蚀陆岬及其沙咀状堡岛为特色的第一阶段。而大清河口附近则处于以堡岛弧为代表的第二阶段。目前，曹妃甸附近的亚三角洲正在向第三阶段，即堡岛演化为内陆架浅滩的阶段演化。从现代滦河口向曹妃甸，对应于废弃年龄的增加，潮汐汊道分别属于五种类型，即新生波浪型、新生过渡型、潮汐型、老年过渡型及老年波浪型     

黄渤海沿岸潮汐汊道的P－A关系

本文计算了１５个潮汐汊道的大潮潮棱体Ｐ及平均海面下口门最小过水断面积Ａ之间的回归方程式。黄渤海沿岸潮汐汊道的天然状态下的Ｐ－Ａ关系为：Ａ＝０．０８４５Ｐ１．０２０。Ｐ与Ａ不仅具有密切的相关性，还有相当大的离散性，这主要与潮汐汊道所获取的泥沙丰度及潮汐汊道的发育阶段有关。与南海、东海沿岸Ｐ－Ａ关系的对比表明，中国海和海区Ｐ－Ａ关系中的常数Ｃ和ｎ差别不大。研究也表明，泻湖型和海湾－溺谷湾型两种潮汐汊道可求得统一的Ｐ－Ａ关系。但与滨临深水区的半环抱形海湾不同。后者主要因为没有较充裕的泥沙供应及海湾水域较为开敞，而不应列入潮汐汊道的范畴。     

象山港潮滩坡度对潮动力影响的数值研究

象山港属于狭长型半封闭港湾,湾内分布有大面积潮滩。多年以来象山港内实施了大量海岸工程及养殖工程,湾内潮滩坡度发生了显著变化。基于非结构网格和有限体积数值模式（FVCOM）建立象山港三维潮动力模型,研究湾内不同区域潮滩坡度变化对象山港潮动力过程的影响机理。结果表明：潮滩坡度下降将增大湾内纳潮量,进而增大M2分潮振幅和迟角,反之则反。铁港潮滩坡度的减小（增大）,将改变底部耗散项,进而增大（减小）M4分潮振幅。由于M2和M4分潮的振幅在湾顶较大,所以湾顶（铁港）潮滩坡度对象山港潮动力过程的影响明显大于侧岸（西沪港）。西沪港潮滩坡度对象山港潮动力过程的影响是局部的。铁港、西沪港潮滩坡度对湾内潮汐不对称、余流及潮能影响显著。铁港潮滩坡度的改变均会减弱湾内落潮占优程度。西沪港区域潮滩坡度的减小将减弱湾内落潮占优趋势,反之则反。铁港和西沪港潮滩坡度的减小,将增大余流大小及潮能密度,进而潮能耗散增大,反之则反。研究结果对河口海岸潮滩区域的工程建设及生态修复有重要参考价值。     

沙坝—泻湖海岸动力地貌学研究进展

国内外对沙坝－泻湖海岸的研究主要采取动力地貌学的方法，本文评述了近一个半世纪以来在这一领域所取得的重要成果。波浪、潮汐、径流等特殊的动力场决定了泥沙输运的方式和路径，从而形成了与其相应的沙坝、泻湖、潮汐通道三大地貌体系。     

The “Furkert‐Heath” relationship for tidal inlet stability reviewed

The “Furkert‐Heath” relationship is a commonly used method of assessing the stability of New Zealand inlets. However, the equation published by Heath in 1975 was incorrectly calculated which has led to misinterpretation of data in some cases. Recalculation resulted in a new linear relation, presented here, between the inlet gorge cross‐sectional area A and tidal prism O. Misuses of the “Furkert‐Heath” equation are identified including: extrapolating predictions beyond the data field; neglecting errors inherent in measurement of A and O; method of characterising sedimentation regime; neglecting confidence limits of data; using A‐O relationships as the sole indicator of inlet stability; and applying the relationship to inlets other than barrier‐enclosed inlets.     

Delta lobe degradation and hurricane impacts governing large-scale coastal behavior,South-central Louisiana,USA

A large deficit in the coastal sediment budget, high rates of relative sea-level rise (~0.9 cm/year), and storm-induced current and wave erosion are forcing barrier shoreface retreat along the periphery of the Mississippi River delta plain. Additionally, conversion of interior wetlands to open water has increased the bay tidal prism, resulting in degradation of barrier islands due to inlet widening, formation of new inlets, and sediment sequestration at ebb-tidal deltas. Single-beam bathymetric surveys along a 165-km stretch of south-central Louisiana barrier coast, from Raccoon Point in Terrebonne Parish to Sandy Point in Plaquemines Parish, were conducted in 2006. These data, combined with historical bathymetry from three time periods (dating to the 1880s), provide a series of digital elevation models that were used to calculate sediment volumetric changes and determine long-term erosional-depositional trends. Dominant patterns during the 125-year period include (1) erosion of ~1.6 × 10⁹ m³ from the shoreface, forcing up to 3 km of shoreface retreat, (2) sediment deposition in coastal bights and at ebb-tidal deltas, and (3) a combined increase in tidal inlet cross-sectional area from ~41,400 m² to ~139,500 m². Bathymetric and shoreline change datasets separated by shorter time periods (sub-annual) demonstrate that these long-term trends are driven by processes associated with major hurricane impacts, and that rates of shoreface erosion are an order of magnitude greater during active hurricane seasons compared to long-term trends.     

Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system

The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour.     

Morphological response of tidal basins to human interventions

This study focuses on the prediction of the long-term morphological evolution of tidal basins due to human interventions. New analytical results have been derived for an existing model [ASMITA, Aggregated Scale Morphological Interaction between a Tidal inlet and the Adjacent coast; Stive, M.J.F., Capobianco, M., Wang, Z.B., Ruol, P., Buijsman, M.C., 1998. Morphodynamics of a Tidal Lagoon and adjacent Coast. 8th International Biennial Conference on Physics of Estuaries and Coastal Seas, The Hague, September 1996, 397–407.]. Through linearisation of the model equations a set of time scales is obtained that describe the main features of the morphological evolution of tidal inlets. The magnitude of these system time scales is determined by inlet geometry and sediment exchange processes. The nature and degree of interventions determine which time scales are dominant. We focus on five different tidal inlets in the Wadden Sea. For these inlets, the system time scales have been estimated. The model has been applied to simulate the morphological response of the Marsdiep and Vlie inlets to the closure of the Zuiderzee in 1932. In this way, the model and associated system time scales for each of these inlets have been validated. Results show that in both inlets, the channels display the largest adaptation time. It will take at least a century before the channels and hence the tidal inlet systems reach a new morphological equilibrium.     

Lessons from inlet relocation: examples from Southern Portugal

Inlet relocation is a coastal management tool that, when applied to a migrating inlet, involves the artificial opening of a new tidal inlet along the historic migration path of the inlet. The old inlet is then artificially closed, or it is left open and will eventually close if the new inlet captures the entire tidal prism. Two inlets were relocated in such a manner in Southern Portugal and then were the subject of a monitoring program that included the acquisition of quantitative (topo-bathymetric surveys) data. Data was acquired for 4 years after the relocation at one of the inlets (Ancão Inlet) and for 2 years at the other (Fuzeta Inlet). The data obtained from the monitoring program were analysed together with the wave climate and then compared with historical information on the natural inlets, in order to assess the degree of success of the relocation actions. One of the relocations studied, Ancão Inlet, was considered to be successful even though an initial unexpected behaviour produced some material damage to property. On the contrary, the relocation of Fuzeta Inlet did not have the expected results, and the new inlet was affected by the same problems as the old one.It was found that the most important factor for a relocation action to succeed is the correct choice of the opening location. A theoretical procedure to enhance the possibilities of relocation success is suggested. (1) Hydrodynamic studies are needed in order to determine if the present conditions are similar to the historical ones. (2) The position for the inlet opening is chosen according to the hydrodynamic conditions, but there are other factors to be taken into account, i.e., the historical migration paths and typical inlet width of the natural inlet; the hydrodynamics of the backbarrier; the morphology of the backbarrier and, for multi-inlet barrier island systems, the proximity to adjacent inlets. (3) Once the position is chosen, environmental impact studies should be made in order to assess the risk of the relocation for the ecosystems of the area. Only if the environmental impact studies are favourable should a relocation action be performed.     

Barrier island stratigraphy and Holocene history of west-central Florida

Although the morphology of the barrier-inlet system along the west-central Florida coast is quite complicated, the stratigraphy of these barriers is rather simple. The basal Holocene unit in most cores is an organic-rich, muddy sand that represents a vegetated, paralic marine, coastal environment similar to that which is north and south of the present barrier system. Above that unit is a muddy, bioturbated sand that displays a marine fauna at most locations but also contains Crassostrea virginica in a few places. These sediments accumulated in a low-energy marine setting that may or may not have been protected by a barrier island. Much of this facies also represents sediment that was delivered as washover deposits in an intertidal or subtidal setting and was subsequently bioturbated. The facies that can be attributed to a barrier island with some certainty are no more than 3000 years old, and on most islands, are much younger. These are the shelly sand and sorted sand facies. The shelly strata represent deposition in nearshore, beach, supratidal washover or intertidal spillover environments, and tidal inlet and tidal delta channels, whereas the sorted sand is typical of eolian deposition in dunes or the backbeach and some tidal delta elements. The presence of Holocene oyster beds offshore of a present barrier suggests that some of these islands formed significantly offshore and moved to their present position through washover. It is likely that most of these barriers initially formed through upward shoaling by waves. Although there is significant morphologic difference between the wave-dominated and mixed-energy, drumstick barrier islands, their stratigraphy is quite similar. The only significant difference is the presence of extensive progradation on at least part of the drumstick islands and a relatively high amount of former washover deposits on the wave-dominated type.     

The seasonal closure of tidal inlets: Wilson Inlet—a case study

The seasonal closure of tidal inlets is a common and important coastal phenomena. However, studies which have been specifically geared to identify processes governing seasonal inlet closure are almost non-existent. Hence, this study was undertaken to gain insight into processes governing seasonal inlet closure. To determine the processes governing this phenomenon, Wilson Inlet, Western Australia, a typical seasonally open tidal inlet is taken as a case study. The study comprised of a field experiment over the summer of 1995, and a numerical modeling exercise employing a morphodynamic model. Results of the field study imply that longshore processes may not be the cause of inlet closure, but that onshore sediment transport due to persistent swell wave conditions in summer may govern seasonal closure of the inlet. Application of a morphodynamic model, which includes both cross-shore and longshore processes, to Wilson Inlet conclusively shows that seasonal closure of the inlet is due to onshore sediment transport under typical summer conditions. The effects of summer streamflow and storm events, which are not uncommon, are also examined using the morphodynamic model. The effect of both streamflow and storm events on the `open duration' of the inlet is shown to be dependent on the intensity and timing of the event.     

Relationships Between Tidal Prism and Throat Area of Tidal Inlets Along Yellow Sea and Bohai Sea Coasts

The relationship between P (spring tidal prism) and A (throat area below mean sea level) is statistically analysed in terms of 29 tidal inlets or bays along the Huanghai Sea (Yellow Sea) and Bohai Sea coasts. For 15 of these tidal inlets, the best regression equation is A(km2) = 0.845 />(km3)1.20. The analysis shows that C and n are little different from those in the P-A relationship for the inlets of the South China Sea and East China Sea coasts. It is noted that the relationship between P and A is unstable because of the difference in sediment abundance. The study shows that a united P-A relationship can be obtained for the tidal inlets of lagoon type and bay-drowned-valley type, not containing some half-circle shape bays which confront deep water. These half-circle bays do not belong to tidal inlets because they do not have enough sediment abundance and are fairly open.     

Modeling regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets on the Long Island coast,United States

A new numerical model was developed to simulate regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets based on the one-line theory combined with the reservoir analogy approach for volumetric evolution of inlet shoals. Sand bypassing onshore and sheltering effects on wave action from the inlet bar and shoals were taken into account. The model was applied to unique field data from the south coast of Long Island, United States, including inlet opening and closure. The simulation area extended from Montauk Point to Fire Island Inlet, including Shinnecock and Moriches Inlets. A 20-year long time series of hindcast wave data at three stations along the coast were used as input data to the model. The capacity of the inlet shoals and bars to store sand was estimated based on measured cross-sectional areas of the inlets as well as on comprehensive bathymetric surveys of the areas around the inlet. Several types of sediment sources and sinks were represented, including beach fills, groin systems, jetty blocking, inlet bypassing, and flood shoal and ebb shoal feeding. The model simulations were validated against annual net longshore transport rates reported in the literature, measured shorelines, and recorded sediment volumes in the flood and ebb shoal complexes. Overall, the model simulations were in good agreement with the measured data.     

Morphodynamic modeling of tidal channel evolution in comparison to empirical PA relationship

Tidal channels and inlets in alluvial environments are interconnected dynamic systems that react to changing physical conditions (such as sea level rise) as well as to anthropogenic impact (such as dredging and bank protection works). Past research resulted in an empirical equilibrium relationship for inlets between the tidal prism (P) and the cross-sectional area in a tidal inlet (A). Constant PA relationships were found along several tidal basins.     

Morphodynamic responses to the deep water harbor development in the Caofeidian sea area,China's Bohai Bay

Vast bay-type tidal inlets can be found along the coastal zones of China. They are generally suitable for deep water channels and large harbors because of the presence of large water depth and good mooring conditions. The deep channel, in front of the head of Caofeidian Island in Bohai Bay, China, is a typical bay-type tidal inlet system. The tidal current, a type of reverse flow, makes the key contribution to maintain the deep water depth. The co-action of waves and tidal currents is the main dynamic force for sediment motion. Waves have significant influence on the sediment concentration. Based on the characteristics of waves, tidal currents, sediment and seabed evolution in Caofeidian sea area, a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport under influence of waves and tidal currents is developed to study the development schemes of the Caofeidian Harbor. The model has been verified for spring and neap tides, in winter as well as in summer of 2006. The calculated tidal stages, flow velocities, flow directions and sediment concentrations at 15 stations are in good agreement with the observations. Furthermore, the calculated data on pattern and magnitude of sedimentation and erosion in the related area agree well with the observations. This model has been used to study the effects of the reclamation scheme for Caofeidian Harbor on the hydrodynamic environment, sediment transport and morphological changes. Attentions are paid to the project inducing changes of flow velocities and morphology in the deep channel at the south side of Caofeidian foreland, in the Laolonggou channel and in various harbor basins. The conclusions can provide the important foundation for the protection and use of bay-type tidal inlets and the development of harbor industry.     

Assessment of tidal inlet evolution and stability using sediment budget computations and hydraulic parameter analysis

Research into the response of coastlines to the opening and stabilisation of inlets has been limited by the availability of suitable data, the shortcomings of existing formulae when applied to different inlets, and the difficulties particular to multi-inlet situations. Our appraisal of methodologies for studying inlet dynamics leads us to formulate a new approach for investigating inlet evolution and stability based on combining sediment budget computations (using best estimates and uncertainty analysis) and inlet hydraulic parameter analysis.The approach developed is applied to a stabilised inlet, located within a multi-inlet system (Faro-Olhão Inlet, Ria Formosa, Southern Portugal), which was opened starting 1929 and has since been dredged periodically to maintain navigability. A series of digital maps was produced based on multi-year data acquired from charts, surveys, and aerial photos. The maps were used to compute sediment volumes for six coastal cells delineated on the basis of the morphological features of the inlet. Cell volumes and fluxes were calculated for three periods (1929–1962, 1962–1978, and 1978–2001), and overall sediment budgets were calculated for the latter two periods. Inlet hydraulic parameters measured included tidal prism, inlet channel cross-sectional area and hydraulic radius, and maximum depth of the inlet throat, and were tracked over 9 bathymetric surveys from 1947–2004. The computed budget reveals that the inlet is only at present reaching volumetric equilibrium. However, the analysis of channel cross-sectional area and radius indicates parameter stability around 1978–1985, 20–25 years before the inlet started to reach volumetric equilibrium. It is hypothesised that the observed stability in parameters for the inlet post-1978 is related to the presence of fixed jetties and to a stratigraphic control that prevents further deepening, and not to the achievement of a dynamic equilibrium.The findings indicate that the coupling of sediment budget computation and inlet parameter analysis is useful for understanding historical sediment pathways and magnitudes, and for analysing the evolution of an inlet towards equilibrium. Although the analysis of inlet parameter evolution is valuable for examining the locational/geometrical stability of an inlet, it needs to be used in conjunction with sediment budget computations in order to properly infer inlet equilibrium. Moreover, existing formulae used to infer inlet stability, which relate cross-sectional area to tidal prism, should be reviewed with a view to including other external variables (e.g., stratigraphic controls) and to making their application more flexible to cope with the range of different inlet conditions. For multi-inlet systems, the coupling of morphology and hydrodynamics analysis should be extended to all inlets in order to infer the stability of the overall system based on the distribution of the tidal prism through time and the patterns of inlet circulation and sediment transport.