波浪与抛石潜堤相互作用的MPS法数值模型研究

为了研究波浪与抛石潜堤相互作用过程中大自由表面变形和堤内渗流等强非线性紊流运动问题,利用改进的MPS法,建立了模拟波浪与抛石潜堤相互作用的MPS法数值计算模型。模型将抛石潜堤假定为均质多孔介质,采用Drew的二相流运动方程描述多孔介质内外的流体运动;通过在动量方程中增加非线性阻力项,并引入亚粒子尺度紊流模型,模拟波浪与可渗结构物相互作用过程中的紊流运动。选取“U”型管中多孔介质内渗流过程和孤立波与可渗潜堤相互作用两个典型的渗流问题,通过将数值计算结果与理论解和实测值的对比分析,对所提出的MPS法紊流渗流模型的模拟精度进行验证。结果表明:基于改进的MPS法构建的垂向二维紊流渗流模型可以很好地再现“U”型管中多孔介质内渗流以及波浪作用下可渗潜堤内外的复杂流场,显著缓解流-固界面处的压力震荡与粒子分布不均匀问题,实现了较高的模拟精度。     

Moving particle method for modeling wave interaction with porous structures

This paper presents a numerical model for simulating wave interaction with porous structures. Incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics in porous media (ISPHP) method is introduced in this study as a mesh free particle approach that is capable of efficiently tracking the large deformation of free surfaces in a Lagrangian coordinate system. The developed model solves two porous and pure fluid flows simultaneously by means of one equation that is equivalent to the unsteady 2D Navier–Stokes (NS) equations for the flows outside the porous media and the extended Forchheimer equation for the flows inside the porous media. Interface boundary between pure fluid and porous media is effectively modeled by the SPH integration technique. A two-step semi-implicit scheme is also used to solve the fluid pressure satisfying the fluid incompressibility criterion.The developed ISPHP model is then validated via different experimental and numerical data. Fluid flow pattern through porous dam with different porosities is studied and regular wave attenuation over porous seabed is investigated. As a practical case, wave running up and overtopping on a caisson breakwater protected by a porous armor layer are modeled. The results show good agreements between numerical and laboratory data in terms of free surface displacement, overtopping rate and pressure distribution. Based on this study, ISPHP model is an efficient method for simulating the coastal applications with porous structures.     

A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater

A mathematical model based on the Volume-Averaged/Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations is developed to describe surface wave motions in the vicinity of a coastal structure, which could be either a rigid solid structure or a permeable structure or a combination of both. In the VARANS equations, the volume-averaged Reynolds stress is modeled by adopting the nonlinear eddy viscosity assumption. The model equations for the volume-averaged turbulent kinetic energy and its dissipation rate are derived by taking the volume-average of the standard k−ϵ equations. Because of the volume-averaging process, the effects of the small-scale turbulence in porous media are introduced. The performance of the model is checked by comparing numerical solutions with the experimental data related to a composite breakwater reported by Sakakiyama and Liu [Coast. Eng. 121 (2001) 117].     

Reynolds number variation in oscillatory boundary layers: Part I. Purely oscillatory motion

A numerical model based upon a low Reynolds number turbulence closure is proposed to study Reynolds number variation in reciprocating oscillatory boundary layers. The model is used to compute the boundary layer for flow regimes ranging from smooth laminar to rough turbulent. Criteria for fully developed turbulence are derived for walls of the smooth and rough types. In particular, a new criterion to identify the rough turbulent regime is determined based on the time-averaged turbulence intensity. The reliability of the present model is assessed through comparisons with detailed experimental data collected by other investigators. The model globally improves upon standard high Reynolds number closures. Variation through the wave cycle of the main flow variables (ensemble-averaged velocity, shear stress, turbulent kinetic energy) is remarkably well-predicted for smooth walls. Predictions are satisfactory for rough walls as well. Yet, the turbulence level in the rough turbulent regime is overpredicted in the vicinity of the bed.     

Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave

The structure of large-scale turbulence under a broken solitary wave on a 1 in 50 plane slope was studied. Three-component velocity measurements were taken at different heights above a smooth bed in the middle surf zone using an acoustic Doppler velocimeter. The measured data showed that turbulent velocity components were well correlated in the middle part of the water column. The velocity correlations could be produced by an oblique vortex similar to the obliquely descending eddy observed previously by other investigators. The vertical distributions of the relative values of the components of the Reynolds stress tensor showed that the structure of turbulence evolved continuously between the free surface and the bottom. The evolution was related to transition from two-dimensional to three-dimensional flow structures and the effect of the solid bottom on flow structures. Time histories of measured turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses showed episodic turbulent events near the free surface but more sporadic turbulence in the lower layer. Large or intense turbulent events were found to have short duration and time lag relative to the wave crest point. These events also maintained good correlations between the turbulence velocity components close to the bottom.Instantaneous turbulent velocity fields were measured near the bottom at the same cross-shore location by using a stereoscopic particle image velocimetry system. These measurements showed that the near-bed flow field was characterized by large-scale, coherent flow structures that were the sources of most of the turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses. The types of organized flow structures observed included vortices and downbursts of turbulence descending directly from above, lateral spreading of turbulent fluid along the bed, and formation of vortices in shear layers between fluid streams. A common feature of the organized flow structures near the bed was the large turbulence velocities in the longitudinal and transverse directions, which reflected the influence of a solid bottom on the breaking-wave-generated turbulence arriving at the bed.     

Numerical simulation of wave interaction with porous structures using an improved smoothed particle hydrodynamic method

A smoothed particle hydrodynamic (SPH) model is developed to simulate wave interaction with porous structures. The mean flow outside the porous structures is obtained by solving Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the turbulence field is calculated by a large eddy simulation (LES) model. The porous flow is described by the spatially averaged Navier–Stokes type equations with the resistance effect of the porous media being represented by an empirical frictional source term. The interface boundaries between the porous flow and the outside flow are modeled by means of specifying a transition zone along the interface. The model is validated against other available numerical results and experimental data for wave damping over porous seabed with different levels of permeability. The validated model is then employed to investigate wave breaking over a submerged porous breakwater and good agreements between the SPH model results and the experimental data are obtained in terms of free surface displacement. In addition the predicted velocity, vorticity and pressure fields near the porous breakwater and in the breaking wave zone are also analyzed.     

A wave-resolving model for nearshore suspended sediment transport

This paper presents a wave-resolving sediment transport model, which is capable of simulating sediment suspension in the field-scale surf zone. The surf zone hydrodynamics is modeled by the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The turbulent flow and suspended sediment are simulated in a coupled manner. Three effects of suspended sediment on turbulent flow field are considered: (1) baroclinic forcing effect; (2) turbulence damping effect and (3) bottom boundary layer effect. Through the validation with the laboratory measurements of suspended sediment under nonbreaking skewed waves and surfzone breaking waves, we demonstrate that the model can reasonably predict wave-averaged sediment profiles. The model is then utilized to simulate a rip current field experiment (RCEX) and nearshore suspended sediment transport. The offshore sediment transport by rip currents is captured by the model. The effects of suspended sediment on self-suspension are also investigated. The turbulence damping and bottom boundary layer effects are significant on sediment suspension. The suspended sediment creates a stably stratified water column, damping fluid turbulence and reducing turbulent diffusivity. The suspension of sediment also produces a stably stratified bottom boundary layer. Thus, the drag coefficient and bottom shear stress are reduced, causing less sediment pickup from the bottom. The cross-shore suspended sediment flux is analyzed as well. The mean Eulerian suspended sediment flux is shoreward outside the surf zone, while it is seaward in the surf zone.     

Incompressible SPH flow model for wave interactions with porous media

The paper presents an Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (ISPH) method to simulate wave interactions with a porous medium. The SPH method is a mesh free particle modeling approach that is capable of tracking the large deformation of free surfaces in an easy and accurate manner. The ISPH method employs a strict incompressible hydrodynamic formulation to solve the fluid pressure and the numerical solution is obtained by using a two-step semi-implicit scheme. The ISPH flow model solves the unsteady 2D Navier–Stokes (NS) equations for the flows outside the porous media and the NS type model equations for the flows inside the porous media. The presence of porous media is considered by including additional friction forces into the equations. The developed ISPH model is first validated by the solitary and regular waves damping over a porous bed and the solitary wave interacting with a submerged porous breakwater. The convergence of the method and the sensitivity of relevant model parameters are discussed. Then the model is applied to the breaking wave interacting with a breakwater covered with a layer of porous materials. The computational results demonstrate that the ISPH flow model could provide a promising simulation tool in coastal hydrodynamic applications.     

Finite element analysis of flow control using porous media

A finite element model is established for simulating flow in and out a porous media. The extended Darcy equation inside the porous media and the Navier–Stokes equations in the fluid are coupled via the continuity condition at the interface between the two media. The model is firstly validated against the analytical and the numerical results available in literature. Then it is applied to simulate flow past a circular cylinder covered by a porous layer. The effect of the porous layer on the reduction of lift coefficient is investigated numerically. It is found that the lift reduction can be achieved by properly choosing the porous material. However, the amount of reduction greatly depends on the Reynolds number, the permeability and the Forchheimer coefficient.     

Measurement of fluid flow in pipe and porous media by high-resolution magnetic resonance imaging

The objective of this study is to understand the process of fluid flow in pipe and porous media with different pore structures.High-resolution Magnetic Resonance Imaging(MRI)technique was used to visualize the pore structure and measure fluid flow.The porous media was formed by packed bed of glass beads.Flow measurement was carried out by a modified spin echo sequence.The results show that the velocity distribution in pipe is annular and the linear relation between MRI velocity and actual velocity is found in pipe flow measurement.The flow distribution in porous media is rather heterogeneous,and it is consistent with heterogeneous pore structure.The flow through pores with the high volume flow rate is determined largely by geometrical effects such as pore size and cross-sectional area.     

Vortex generation and evolution in water waves propagating over a submerged rectangular obstacle: Part II: Cnoidal waves

Vortex generation and evolution due to flow separation around a submerged rectangular obstacle under incoming cnoidal waves is investigated both experimentally and numerically. The Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) technique is used in the measurement. Based on the PIV data, a characteristic velocity, phrased in terms of incoming wave height, phase speed, dimension of the obstacle, and a local Reynolds number are proposed to describe the intensity of vortex. The numerical model, which solves the two dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations, is used to further study the effects of wave period on the vortex intensity. Measurements for the mean and turbulent velocity fields further indicate that the time history of the intensity of fluid turbulence is closely related to that of the vortex intensity.     

Large Eddy Simulation for Plunge Breaker and Sediment Suspension

Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it into suspension, which will then be carried by wave-induced steady current and tidal flow. In order to investigate sediment suspension by breaking waves, a numerical model based on large-eddy-simulation (LES) is developed. This numerical model can be used to simulate wave breaking and sediment suspension. The model consists of a free-surface model using the surface marker method combined with a two-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence and the turbulent diffusion are described by a large-eddy-simulation (LES) method where the large turbulence features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and a subgrid model represents the small-scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model. A dynamic eddy viscosity subgrid scale stress model has been used for the     

A coupled numerical model for simulation of wave breaking and hydraulic performances of a composite seawall

A numerical model is developed by combining a porous flow model and a two-phase flow model to simulate wave transformation in porous structure and hydraulic performances of a composite type low-crest seawall. The structure consists of a wide submerged reef, a porous terrace at the top and an impermeable rear wall. The porous flow model is based on the extended Navier-Stokes equations for wave motion in porous media and k−ε turbulence equations. The two-phase flow model combines the water domain with the air zone of finite thickness above water surface. A unique solution domain is established by satisfying kinematic boundary condition at the interface of air and water. The free surface advection of water wave is modeled by the volume of fluid method with newly developed fluid advection algorithm. Comparison of computed and measured wave properties shows reasonably good agreement. The influence of terrace width and structure porosity is investigated based on numerical results. It is concluded that there exist optimum value of terrace width and porosity that can maximize hydraulic performances. The velocity distributions inside and in front of the structure are also investigated.     

Basic Laws in Mechanics of Turbulent Flows

- Turbulent flow is a basic form of fluid motion widely observed in nature. In hydraulic engineering, especially in the study of sediment movement, turbulence is a key problem. In this paper, based on the stochastic theory of wall turbulence developed by the author and the results by other investigators, fluc-tuation and mean structures and drag coefficient for Newtonian and drag reduction flows in all states (laminar, transitional, turbulent) and in all regions (smooth, transitional, rough) are theoretically discussed in detail. General laws for laminar and turbulent flows obtained by the author are verified by the experimental results obtained by others, and there is good agreement between them.     

A Study of the Performances of Different Turbulence Schemes in Numerical Simulation of Hydrodynamics of a Semi-Closed Sea (Persian Gulf)

Complex process of turbulent mixing in Persian Gulf that is a semi-closed sea makes it a good media to test the performance of different turbulence schemes. In this research, we used the 3D ocean model COHERENS (COupled Hydrodynamical Ecological model for REgioNal Shelf seas) for the Persian Gulf with the open boundary in the Hormuz Strait. Of the turbulence schemes for the vertical diffusion available in the COHERENS, we tested four models to investigate the hydrodynamic characteristics of the Persian Gulf. The results show that all of the schemes presented the sea surface salinity (SSS) distribution rather accurately but the k-l and flow-dependent models results have better agreements with observations. The most noticeable difference between the results of four schemes is the differences found in the simulation of turbulent parameters. The turbulent closure schemes generally provide better results, but the algebraic schemes show turbulent parameters far from reality and they do not show substantial changes with time. Generally, the vertical structures of turbulence in the water basins and parameterization of turbulence in water column is very sensitive to the selection of the type of the turbulence scheme. However, large-scale structures that take place within the inflow and outflow area are approximately quasi-horizontal, and the vertical small-scale turbulence does not affect them as much. As a result, they show less sensitivity to the performance of various turbulence schemes.     

Large eddy simulation of breaking waves

A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth.     

Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers

A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone.     

Numerical simulation of solitary and randomwave propagation through vegetation based on VOFmethod

A vertical two-dimensional numerical model has been applied to solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier- Stokes （RANS} equations in the simulation of current and wave propagation through vegetated and non- vegetated waters. The k-e model is used for turbulence closure of RANS equations. The effect of vegeta- tion is simulated by adding the drag force of vegetation in the flow momentum equations and turbulence model. To solve the modified N-S equations, the finite difference method is used with the staggered grid system to solver equations. The Youngs＇ fractional volume of fluid （VOF） is applied tracking the free sur- face with second-order accuracy. The model has been tested by simulating dam break wave, pure current with vegetation, solitary wave runup on vegetated and non-vegetated channel, regular and random waves over a vegetated field. The model reasonably well reproduces these experimental observations, the model- ing approach presented herein should be useful in simulating nearshore processes in coastal domains with vegetation effects.     

2-D numerical analysis of near-field flow at low-crested permeable breakwaters

This paper describes the capability of a numerical model named COrnell BReaking waves And Structures (COBRAS) [Lin, P., Liu, P.L.-F., 1998. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 359, 239–264; Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Chang, K.A., Sakakiyama, T., 1999. Numerical modeling of wave interaction with porous structures. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 125, 322–330, Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., Sakakiyama, T., 2000. A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions. Proc. Coastal Structures '99, 169–174] based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations to simulate the most relevant hydrodynamic near-field processes that take place in the interaction between waves and low-crested breakwaters. The model considers wave reflection, transmission, overtopping and breaking due to transient nonlinear waves including turbulence in the fluid domain and in the permeable regions for any kind of geometry and number of layers. Small-scale laboratory tests were conducted in order to validate the model, with different wave conditions and breakwater configurations. In the present study, regular waves of different heights and periods impinging on a wide-crested structure are considered. Three different water depths were tested in order to examine the influence of the structure freeboard. The experimental set-up includes a flow recirculation system aimed at preventing water piling-up at the lee of the breakwater due to overtopping. The applicability and validity of the model are examined by comparing the results of the numerical computations with experimental data. The model is proved to simulate with a high degree of agreement all the studied magnitudes, free surface displacement, pressure inside the porous structure and velocity field. The results obtained show that this model represents a substantial improvement in the numerical modelling of low-crested structures (LCS) since it includes many processes neglected previously by existing models. The information provided by the model can be useful to analyse structure functionality, structure stability, scour and many other hydrodynamic processes of interest.     

Propagation of solitary waves over a submerged permeable breakwater

We study the interactions between a non-breaking solitary wave and a submerged permeable breakwater experimentally and numerically. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is employed to measure instantaneous free surface displacements and velocity fields in the vicinity of a porous dike. The porous medium, consisting of uniform glass spheres, is mounted on the seafloor. Due to the limited size of each field of view (FOV) for high spatial resolution purposes, four FOVs are set in order to form a continuous flow field around the structure. Quantitative mean properties are obtained by ensemble averaging 30 repeated instantaneous measurements. The Reynolds decomposition method is then adopted to separate the velocity fluctuations for each trial to estimate the turbulent kinetic energy. In addition, a highly accurate two-dimensional model with the volume of fluid interface tracking technique is used to simulate an idealized volume-averaged porous medium. The model is based on the Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations coupled with the non-linear k–ε turbulence closure solver. Comparisons are performed between measurements and numerical results for the time histories of the free surface elevation recorded by wave gauges and the spatial distributions of free surface displacement with the corresponding velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around the permeable object imaged by the PIV system. Fairly good agreements are obtained. It is found that the measured and modeled turbulent intensities on the weather side are much larger than those on the lee side of the object, and that the magnitude of the turbulent intensity increases with increasing wave height of a solitary wave at a constant water depth. The verified numerical model is then used to estimate the energy reflection, transmission and dissipation using the energy integral method by varying the aspect ratio and the grain size of the permeable obstacle.