On the wave damping due to a permeable seabed

Laboratory experiments were performed to study the wave damping induced by a porous bed. During the propagation of waves over a porous medium the wave characteristics change: a significant wave height attenuation of about 20–30% is observed and, in almost all cases, an increase in wavelength. The wave decay is found to depend on the wave characteristics like the wave height, the wavelength and the wave shape. We have also studied the influence of the geometric properties of the porous bed (i.e. thickness and length) on the wave dissipation. It is found that the attenuation of the wave height increases with the permeable bed thickness and that there is a maximum wave dissipation for a length of the porous seabed equal to 2.0–2.5 times the wavelength. A comparison is also made of our findings with available literature results. A parametric study of the wave damping has been performed by varying the values of the resistance coefficients derived by both literature and experiments. Literature analytical models have been applied by using the resistance coefficients that better describe our flow conditions. All models in use underpredict the observed wave attenuation for any sensible values of the resistance coefficients.     

Numerical simulation of wave damping over porous seabeds

This paper presents a study of wave damping over porous seabeds by using a two-dimensional numerical model. In this model, the flow outside of porous media is described by the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations. The spatially averaged Navier–Stokes equations, in which the presence of porous media is considered by including additional inertia and nonlinear friction forces, is derived and implemented for the porous flow. Unlike the earlier models, the present model explicitly represents the flow resistance dependency on Reynolds number in order to cover wider ranges of porous flows. The numerical model is validated against available theories and experimental data. The comparison between the numerical results and the theoretical results indicates that the omission or linearization of the nonlinear resistance terms in porous flow models, which is the common practice in most of analytical models, can lead to significant errors in estimating wave damping rate. The present numerical model is used to simulate nonlinear wave interaction with porous seabeds and it is found that the numerical results compare well with the experimental data for different wave nonlinearity. The additional numerical tests are also conducted to study the effects of wavelength, seabed thickness and Reynolds number on wave damping.     

Numerical simulation of wave interaction with porous structures using an improved smoothed particle hydrodynamic method

A smoothed particle hydrodynamic (SPH) model is developed to simulate wave interaction with porous structures. The mean flow outside the porous structures is obtained by solving Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the turbulence field is calculated by a large eddy simulation (LES) model. The porous flow is described by the spatially averaged Navier–Stokes type equations with the resistance effect of the porous media being represented by an empirical frictional source term. The interface boundaries between the porous flow and the outside flow are modeled by means of specifying a transition zone along the interface. The model is validated against other available numerical results and experimental data for wave damping over porous seabed with different levels of permeability. The validated model is then employed to investigate wave breaking over a submerged porous breakwater and good agreements between the SPH model results and the experimental data are obtained in terms of free surface displacement. In addition the predicted velocity, vorticity and pressure fields near the porous breakwater and in the breaking wave zone are also analyzed.     

Moving particle method for modeling wave interaction with porous structures

This paper presents a numerical model for simulating wave interaction with porous structures. Incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics in porous media (ISPHP) method is introduced in this study as a mesh free particle approach that is capable of efficiently tracking the large deformation of free surfaces in a Lagrangian coordinate system. The developed model solves two porous and pure fluid flows simultaneously by means of one equation that is equivalent to the unsteady 2D Navier–Stokes (NS) equations for the flows outside the porous media and the extended Forchheimer equation for the flows inside the porous media. Interface boundary between pure fluid and porous media is effectively modeled by the SPH integration technique. A two-step semi-implicit scheme is also used to solve the fluid pressure satisfying the fluid incompressibility criterion.The developed ISPHP model is then validated via different experimental and numerical data. Fluid flow pattern through porous dam with different porosities is studied and regular wave attenuation over porous seabed is investigated. As a practical case, wave running up and overtopping on a caisson breakwater protected by a porous armor layer are modeled. The results show good agreements between numerical and laboratory data in terms of free surface displacement, overtopping rate and pressure distribution. Based on this study, ISPHP model is an efficient method for simulating the coastal applications with porous structures.     

Modified moving particle method for modeling wave interaction with multi layered porous structures

Modified Moving Particle method in Porous media (MMPP) is introduced in this study for simulating a flow interaction with porous structures. By making use of the sub-particle scale (SPS) turbulence model, a unified set of equations are introduced for the entire computational domain and a proper boundary treatment is suggested at the interfaces between fluid and the porous media. Similar to the Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (ISPH) method, a robust two-step semi-implicit scheme is utilized to satisfy the incompressibility criterion. By means of the introduced model, different flow regimes through multi-layered porous structures with arbitrary shapes can be simulated and there is no need to implement calibration factors.The developed MMPP model is then validated via simulating the experiments of Liu et al. (1999) i.e. linear and turbulent flows through porous dams and the experiments of Sakakiyama and Liu (2001) i.e. wave overtopping on a caisson breakwater protected by multi layered porous materials. Good agreements between numerical and laboratory data present the ability of the introduced model in simulating various flow regimes through multi-layered porous structures. It is concluded that the turbulent flow is an important issue particularly at the interface between the free fluid and porous media and consequently, the accuracy of the previous Lagrangian models that were based on neglecting the turbulence effect can be improved significantly by means of the present model. In addition, to satisfy the continuity criteria in the SPH models, it is necessary to modify density of particles in accordance with their porosity.     

Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures using OpenFOAM®. Part I: Formulation and validation

In this paper and its companion (Higuera et al., 2014--this issue), the latest advancements regarding Volume-averaged Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (VARANS) are developed in OpenFOAM® and applied. A new solver, called IHFOAM, is programmed to overcome the limitations and errors in the original OpenFOAM® code, having a rigorous implementation of the equations. Turbulence modelling is also addressed for k-ϵ and k-ω SST models within the porous media. The numerical model is validated for a wide range of cases including a dam break and wave interaction with porous structures both in two and three dimensions. In the second part of this paper the model is applied to simulate wave interaction with a real structure, using an innovative hybrid (2D–3D) methodology.     

聚焦波作用下平面网衣结构的水动力特性研究

由于沿海区域的限制以及愈加严重的环境污染,渔业养殖正从近海走向深远海。深远海海域的海况更加恶劣,给养殖装备的设计与性能评估带来新的挑战。为解决该问题,对极端波浪与养殖装备网衣结构的相互作用开展研究。基于waves2Foam建立数值波浪水池,极端波浪模拟采用基于NewWave理论的聚焦波模型,网衣结构模拟采用多孔介质模型,并通过与Morison模型计算的网衣受力等效分析,获得多孔介质模拟网衣结构阻力系数的直接估计方法。然后将多孔介质模型嵌入waves2Foam中,开展聚焦波与网衣结构相互作用的数值模拟,同时开展水槽试验,验证数值模拟的准确性。基于数值模拟结果,系统地分析了不同网衣密实度及不同波浪参数下网衣结构的升阻力特性以及网衣结构对波浪场的扰动规律。研究表明：聚焦波波峰幅值和网衣密实度对网衣结构的升阻力影响较大,且升力峰值出现在阻力为0的时刻;网衣结构对聚焦波的时空演化特性有影响,改变了聚焦波波形。     

Incompressible SPH flow model for wave interactions with porous media

The paper presents an Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (ISPH) method to simulate wave interactions with a porous medium. The SPH method is a mesh free particle modeling approach that is capable of tracking the large deformation of free surfaces in an easy and accurate manner. The ISPH method employs a strict incompressible hydrodynamic formulation to solve the fluid pressure and the numerical solution is obtained by using a two-step semi-implicit scheme. The ISPH flow model solves the unsteady 2D Navier–Stokes (NS) equations for the flows outside the porous media and the NS type model equations for the flows inside the porous media. The presence of porous media is considered by including additional friction forces into the equations. The developed ISPH model is first validated by the solitary and regular waves damping over a porous bed and the solitary wave interacting with a submerged porous breakwater. The convergence of the method and the sensitivity of relevant model parameters are discussed. Then the model is applied to the breaking wave interacting with a breakwater covered with a layer of porous materials. The computational results demonstrate that the ISPH flow model could provide a promising simulation tool in coastal hydrodynamic applications.     

波浪与抛石潜堤相互作用的MPS法数值模型研究

为了研究波浪与抛石潜堤相互作用过程中大自由表面变形和堤内渗流等强非线性紊流运动问题,利用改进的MPS法,建立了模拟波浪与抛石潜堤相互作用的MPS法数值计算模型。模型将抛石潜堤假定为均质多孔介质,采用Drew的二相流运动方程描述多孔介质内外的流体运动;通过在动量方程中增加非线性阻力项,并引入亚粒子尺度紊流模型,模拟波浪与可渗结构物相互作用过程中的紊流运动。选取"U"型管中多孔介质内渗流过程和孤立波与可渗潜堤相互作用两个典型的渗流问题,通过将数值计算结果与理论解和实测值的对比分析,对所提出的MPS法紊流渗流模型的模拟精度进行验证。结果表明:基于改进的MPS法构建的垂向二维紊流渗流模型可以很好地再现"U"型管中多孔介质内渗流以及波浪作用下可渗潜堤内外的复杂流场,显著缓解流-固界面处的压力震荡与粒子分布不均匀问题,实现了较高的模拟精度。     

Experimental investigating on the reflected waves from the caisson-type vertical porous seawalls

The hydrodynamic efficiencies of caisson-type vertical porous seawalls used for protecting coastal areas were calculated in this study. Physical models were developed to compare the wave reflection from vertical plane, semi-porous, and porous seawalls caused by both regular and random waves. Tests were carried out for a wide range of wave heights, wave periods, and different water depths (d=0.165, 0.270 and 0.375 m). The performance regarding the reflected waves from porous and semi-porous seawalls showed improvement when compared with those from the plane seawall. The reflection coefficients of the porous and semi-porous seawalls were calculated as 0.6 and 0.75, respectively, while the coefficient for the fully reflecting plane vertical wall was significantly higher (0.9). It was also observed that the reflection coefficient decreases with increase in wave steepness and relative water depth. In addition, the reduction in the reflection coefficient of porous and semi-porous seawalls, as compared to that of a plane seawall, was observed for both regular and random waves. New equations were also proposed to calculate the reflection coefficient of different types of seawalls with the aid of laboratory experiments. By verifying the developed equations using some other experimental data, it was validated that the equations could be used for practical situations. The results of the present study can be applied to optimize the design of vertical seawalls and for coastal protecting schemes.     

A coupled numerical model of wave interaction with porous medium

A new coupling model of wave interaction with porous medium is established in which the wave field solver is based on the two dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with a kε closure. Incident waves, which could be linear waves, cnoidal waves or solitary waves, are produced by a piston-type wave maker in the computational domain and the free surface is traced through the Piecewise Linear Interface Construction-Volume of Fluid (PLIC-VOF) method. Nonlinear Forchheimer equations are adopted to calculate the flow field within the porous media. By introducing a velocity–pressure correction equation, the wave field and the porous flow field are highly and efficiently coupled. The two fields are solved simultaneously and no boundary condition is needed at the interface of the internal porous flow and the external wave. The newly developed numerical model is used to simulate wave interaction with porous seabed and the numerical results agree well with the experimental data. The additional numerical tests are also conducted to study the effects of seabed thickness, porosity and permeability coefficient on wave damping and the pore water pressure responses.     

Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures using OpenFOAM®. Part II: Application

This paper and its companion Higuera et al. (2014--this issue) introduce the formulation of Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (VARANS) equations in OpenFOAM® to simulate two-phase flow through porous media. This new implementation, so-called IHFOAM, corrects the limitations of the original OpenFOAM® code. An innovative hybrid methodology (2D–3D) is presented to optimize the simulation time needed to assess the three-dimensional effects of wave interaction with coastal structures. The combined use of a 2D and a 3D model enables the practical application of the 3D VARANS code to simulate real cases, contributing to a significant speed-up. This is highly convenient and especially suitable for non-conventional structures, as it overcomes the limitations inherent to applying semi-empirical formulations out of their range or 2D simulations only. A detailed study of stability and overtopping for a 3D porous high-mound breakwater at prototype scale subjected to oblique irregular (random) waves is carried out. Pressure around the caissons, overtopping discharge rate and turbulent magnitudes are presented in three dimensions. The mean pressure laws present a high degree of accordance with the formulation provided by Goda–Takahashi. Furthermore, local effects due to three-dimensional processes play a significant role, especially close to the breakwater head.     

Simulation of the nonlinear dynamic interactions between waves, a submerged breakwater and the seabed

This study employed direct numerical simulation to simulate the fully nonlinear interaction between the water waves, the submerged breakwater, and the seabed under differing wave conditions. In the numerical simulation, the laminar flow condition in the seabed was applied to evaluate the more exact fluid resistance acting on the porous media. Varying incident wave conditions were applied to the flow field resulting from the wave–structure–seabed interaction, and the variation in the pore water pressure beneath the submerged breakwater was investigated along the cross-section of the submerged breakwater. Structural safety and scouring were also considered on the basis of the numerical results for the flow field around the structure and the variation of the pore water pressure.     

Finite element analysis of flow control using porous media

A finite element model is established for simulating flow in and out a porous media. The extended Darcy equation inside the porous media and the Navier–Stokes equations in the fluid are coupled via the continuity condition at the interface between the two media. The model is firstly validated against the analytical and the numerical results available in literature. Then it is applied to simulate flow past a circular cylinder covered by a porous layer. The effect of the porous layer on the reduction of lift coefficient is investigated numerically. It is found that the lift reduction can be achieved by properly choosing the porous material. However, the amount of reduction greatly depends on the Reynolds number, the permeability and the Forchheimer coefficient.     

3-D non-breaking regular wave interaction with submerged breakwaters

Modelling of the transformation and interaction of regular wave trains with submerged permeable structures is carried out. The existing literature, is summarized relevant theories presented, and theoretical results are compared with existing laboratory data. Special attention is paid to wave reflection. The influence of wave characteristics including oblique incidence, structure geometry and porous material properties on the kinematics and dynamics over and inside the breakwater is considered. Two different models are presented: an eigenfunction expansion 3-D model and a 2-D model based on a mild-slope equation for porous media to account for breakwater slope.     

Water waves within a porous medium on an undulating bed

Water wave refraction–diffraction within a porous medium on an undulating seabed is considered based on linear wave theory. Using the model of wave-induced flow within a porous medium and Galerkin eigenfunction expansions, refraction–diffraction equations for surface waves are derived. With these equations, the wave reflection from a porous structure on a sloping beach is investigated and numerical results of reflection coefficients are obtained. A comparison between the present results with those in the literature is made for a special case and the agreement is satisfactory. This structure can be viewed as an idealized model of rubble-mound seawalls along coastlines.     

波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的耦合数学模型

建立了波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的耦合数学模型,波浪域的控制方程为雷诺时均方程和k-ε紊流模型。对于计算域的入射波采用推板式造波,它可以是线性波、椭圆余弦波和孤立波。采用PLIC-VOF法追踪波浪自由表面。对于多孔介质内的孔隙流场采用非线性Forchheimer方程,两区域共享连续方程,最后导出的波浪域与孔隙流域的压力修正方程具有完全相同的形式,利用这个方程能够同时而不是分别求解波浪场和孔隙流场,避免了在内部边界上给定匹配条件,实现了波浪场与孔隙流场的同步耦合。波浪与粗颗粒海床、平底床面上抛石潜堤及斜坡上抛石潜堤相互作用的验证计算结果表明该模型可用于研究波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的问题。     

The numerical study of wave-induced pore water pressure response in highly permeable seabed

The coupling numerical model of wave interaction with porous medium is used to study waveinduced pore water pressure in high permeability seabed.In the model,the wave field solver is based on the two dimensional Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes(RANS) equations with a k-ε closure,and Forchheimer equations are adopted for flow within the porous media.By introducing a Velocity-Pressure Correction equation for the wave flow and porous flow,a highly efficient coupling between the two flows is implemented.The numerical tests are conducted to study the effects of seabed thickness,porosity,particle size and intrinsic permeability coefficient on regular wave and solitary wave-induced pore water pressure response.The results indicate that,as compared with regular wave-induced,solitary wave-induced pore water pressure has larger values and stronger action on seabed with different parameters.The results also clearly show the flow characteristics of pore water flow within seabed and water wave flow on seabed.The maximum pore water flow velocities within seabed under solitary wave action are higher than those under regular wave action.     

波浪与多孔介质结构相互作用SPH模拟

应用经CSPM法和黎曼解修正后的光滑粒子流体动力学(SPH)方法,建立了主动吸收无反射数值波浪水槽,研究波浪作用下多孔介质结构的水动力特性。流体运动控制方程采用N-S方程,多孔渗水结构内流体的运动控制方程考虑渗流力的影响。数值计算结果给出了水槽内不同位置测点的波面历时曲线和越浪量随时间变化曲线,并同试验结果和Philip Liu的数值计算结果进行了比较。并对一个波浪周期内斜坡堤多孔介质结构内外的速度场和压力分布进行了讨论分析。计算分析表明,数值计算波面较Philip Liu的计算结果与试验结果吻合更好。说明应用SPH方法建立的二维数学模型能够较好地模拟破碎波在多孔渗水斜坡上的爬坡和越浪。     

Verification of a VOF-based two-phase flow model for wave breaking and wave–structure interactions

The objective of the present study is to develop a volume of fluid (VOF)-based two-phase flow model and to discuss the applicability of the model to the simulation of wave–structure interactions. First, an overview of the development of VOF-type models for applications in the field of coastal engineering is presented. The numerical VOF-based two-phase flow model has been developed and applied to the simulations of wave interactions with a submerged breakwater as well as of wave breaking on a slope. Numerical results are then compared with laboratory experimental data in order to verify the applicability of the numerical model to the simulations of complex interactions of waves and permeable coastal structures, including the effects of wave breaking. It is concluded that the two-phase flow model with the aid of the advanced VOF technique can provide with acceptably accurate numerical results on the route to practical purposes.