Population structure and species dynamics of Spisula solida,Diogenes pugilator and Branchiostoma lanceolatum along a temporal–spatial gradient in the south coast of Portugal

The population structure, dynamics and distribution of Spisula solida, Diogenes pugilator and Branchiostoma lanceolatum, common species in the south coast of Portugal, were studied in a spatial–temporal manner in order to understand the influence of cross-shore sediment transport and anthropogenic activities. Spisula solida is harvested commercially, whereas D. pugilator and B. lanceolatum are non-target species, with little information available on the population dynamics of these species. The study was performed in 2001–2002, and along a gradient of 100–5000 m from the coastline, corresponding to a depth gradient of between 1 and 32 m deep. Spisula solida was distributed preferentially at 3–12 m deep, and its distribution appeared to be influenced seasonally by the cross-shore sediment dynamics. Results suggested benthic recruitment in June. Some recruitments had no expression (year 2001) since adults were not present, which seems to be a direct impact of clams' fisheries. Diogenes pugilator showed preferential distribution at shallow depths, from 1.3 to 8 m. Results suggested recruitments every 4 months, in June, February and October. Branchiostoma lanceolatum showed the widest distribution, from 7 to 26 m deep. Recruitment seemed to start in June until October, when it attained an abundance peak of juveniles. For both non-target species no clear effects of the cross-shore dynamics or the clams' fisheries impact were visible.     

The influence of sea state on formation speed of alongshore variability in surf zone sand bars

The formation time of alongshore morphological variability in surf zone sand bars has long been known to differ from one beach to the other and from one post-storm period to another. Here we investigate whether the type of sea state, i.e. distant swell waves or locally generated short period wind sea, affects the formation time of the emerging alongshore topographic variability.A numerical modeling approach is used to examine the emergence of alongshore variability under different shore-normal wave forcing. A research version of Delft3D, operating on the time-scale of wave groups, is applied to a schematised bathymetry with a single bar. The model is then used to investigate several wave scenarios, examining the impact of peak period, frequency spread and directional spread on the formation time of alongshore variability.Results show that an increase in wave period has a large effect, changing the formation time up to O (250%) in case the wave period is changed from a representative value for the Dutch coast (T_p ~ 5–6 s) to an Australian South East coast value (T_p ~ 10–12 s). In contrast, modifications in the directional and frequency spread of the wave field result only in a minor change in the formation time.Examination of hydrodynamics and potential sediment transport shows that the variations in formation time are primarily related to changes in the magnitude of the time-averaged flow conditions. Variations in the magnitude of very low frequency (f < 0.004 Hz) or infragravity (0.004 < f < 0.04 Hz) surf zone flow velocities do not affect the mean sediment transport capacity. Consequently the formation speed of patterns is primarily governed by positive feedback between mean flow and morphology, and low frequency flow fluctuations are of minor importance.These findings indicate that the development of alongshore topographic variability may be faster at swell dominated open coasts, primarily due to the occurrence of longer period swell. Also, at a given site, the arrival of a long wave period swell after a storm can accelerate the emergence of variability.     

Measurement and modelling of the influence of grain size and pressure gradient on swash uprush sediment transport

The paper examines the dependency between total sediment transport, q, and grain size, D (i.e. q ∝ D^p) under dam break generated swash flows. Experiments were performed in a dam break flume over a sloping mobile sand bed with median grain sizes ranging from 0.22 mm to 2.65 mm. The total sediment transport was measured by truncating the flume bed and collecting the sediment transported over the edge. The experiments were designed to exclude pre-generated turbulence and pre-suspended sediment so as to focus solely on the swash flow. The magnitude and nature of the grain size dependency (i.e. p value) were inferred for different flow parameters; the initial dam depth, d_o, the integrated depth averaged velocity cubed, ∫ u³dt, and against the predicted transport potential, q_p, using the Meyer-Peter Muller (MPM) transport model and variations of that model. The data show that negative dependencies (p < 0) are obtained for d_o and q_p, whilst positive dependencies (p > 0) are obtained for ∫ u³dt. This indicates that a given d_o and q_p transport less sediment as grain size increases, whereas transport increases with grain size for a given ∫ u³dt. The p value is found to be narrowly ranged, 0.5 ≤ p ≤ − 0.5. On average, the incorporation of a pressure gradient term via the piezometric head into the MPM formulation reduces q_p by 4% (fine sand) to 18% (coarse sand). The measured total transport for fine and coarse sands is best predicted using MPM and MPM + dp*/dx respectively. However, the inferred optimum transport coefficient in the MPM formulation is about 30, much higher than the standard coefficient in a steady flow and this is not due to the presence of the pre-suspended sediment. The optimum transport coefficient indicates some sensitivity to grain size, suggesting that some transport processes remain unaccounted for in the model.     

The role of combined laser scanning and video techniques in monitoring wave-by-wave swash zone processes

Simulating swash zone morphodynamics remains one of the major weaknesses of beach evolution models. One of the reasons is the limited availability of data on morphological changes at the temporal scales of individual swash events. This paper sets out to present a new hybrid system, consisting of 2D/3D laser scanners and several video cameras, which was designed to monitor swash zone topographic change on a wave-by-wave basis. A methodology is proposed consisting of sensor calibration and several data processing steps, allowing a fusion of different sensors. Such an approach can improve the performance of several field/laboratory, optical technique applications for nearshore hydro- and morpho-dynamic measurements. Digital Elevation Models from a 3D scanner were used in the extrinsic camera calibration procedure and reduced the geo-rectification errors from 0.035 m < RMSE < 0.071 m to 0.008 m < RMSE < 0.013 m. The 2D scanner provided instantaneous measurements of the water and dry beach surface elevation along a 10 m cross-shore section, and comparison with ultrasonic sensor measurements resulted in RMS errors within the 1.7 cm < RMSE < 3.2 cm range. The combination of 2D scanner and video data (i) reduced geo-rectification errors by more than one order of magnitude; and (ii) made 2D laser point cloud processing easier and more robust. The hybrid monitoring system recorded the morphological change of a replenished beach-face on a wave-by-wave basis, during large-scale, physical modeling experiments and the observations showed that individual swash events could result in elevation changes up to dz = ± 10 cm. The sediment transport direction and intensity of the monitored swash events was relatively balanced and sediment transport rates ranged between − 3.5 kg m^− 1 s^− 1 > Q_t > 3.5 kg m^− 1 s^− 1. Extreme transport swash events became rarer as the morphology was reaching equilibrium.     

Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow

New experiments were carried out in the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel of WL|Delft Hydraulics (scale 1:1) using asymmetric 2nd-order Stokes waves. The main aim was to gain a better understanding of size-selective sediment transport processes under oscillatory plane-bed/sheet-flow conditions. The new data show that for uniform sand sizes between 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm, measured net transport rates are hardly affected by the grain size and are proportional to the third-order velocity moment. However for finer grains (D = 0.13 mm) net sand transport rates change from the ‘onshore’ direction into the ‘offshore’ direction in the high velocity range. A new measuring technique for sediment concentrations, based on the measurement of electro-resistance (see [McLean, S.R., Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M. and Hassan, W.N.M., 2001. Sediment transport measurements within the sheet flow layer under waves and currents. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ISSN 0733-950X]), was developed further for the improved measurement of sediment dynamics inside the sheet-flow layer. This technique enabled the measurements of particle velocities during the complete wave cycle. It is observed that for long period waves (T = 12.0 s), time-dependent concentrations inside the sheet-flow layer are nearly in phase with the time-dependent flow velocities. As the wave period decreases, the sediment entrainment from the bed as well as the deposition process back to the bed lags behind the wave motion more and more. The new data show that size-gradation has almost no effect on the net total transport rates, provided the grain sizes of the sand mixture are in the range of 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm. However, if very fine grains (D = 0.13 mm) are present in the mixture, net total transport rates of graded sand are generally reduced in comparison with uniform sand with the same D₅₀. The transport rates of individual size fractions of a mixture are strongly influenced by the presence of other fractions in a mixture. Fine particles in sand mixtures are relatively less transported than in that uniform sand case, while the opposite occurs for coarse fractions in a mixture. The relative contribution of the coarse grains to the net total transport is therefore larger than would be expected based on their volume proportion in the original sand mixture. This partial transport behaviour is opposite to what is generally observed in uni-directional (e.g. river) flows. This is caused by vertical sorting of grain sizes in the upper bed layer and in the sheet flow and suspension layers. Kinematic sorting is believed to be responsible for the development of a coarse surface layer on top of a relatively fine sub-layer, providing in this way a relatively large flow exposure for the coarser sizes. Furthermore fine grains are suspended more easily than coarse grains to higher elevations in the flow where they are subject to increasing phase-lag effects (settling lags). The latter also leads to reduced net transport rates of these finer sizes.     

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f_w = 0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms.     

Wave attenuation in mangroves: A quantitative approach to field observations

Coastal mangroves, dwelling at the interface between land and sea, provide an important contribution to reducing risk from coastal hazards by attenuating incident waves and by trapping and stabilizing sediments. This paper focusses on relations between vegetation densities, wave attenuation rates, sediment characteristics and sedimentation rates in mangroves. These processes were studied along two cross-shore transects through mangroves fringing estuaries in the southern Andaman region of Thailand. Volumetric vegetation densities in these mangroves were ranging up to 32‰, depending on the water depth. Generalized total wave attenuation rates increased from 0.002 m^− 1 in the sparsely vegetated forest fringes with Avicennia and Sonneratia species, up to 0.012 m^− 1 in the dense Rhizophora vegetation in the back of the forests. The total wave attenuation rates integrate effects of shoaling and energy losses due to various bio-physical interactions within the mangrove ecosystem. Wave attenuation in the mangroves is presumably dominated by energy losses due to vegetation drag, since wave attenuation due to bottom friction and viscous dissipation on the bare mudflats is significantly lower than those inside the mangrove vegetation.Additionally, wave attenuation in the mangroves was found to facilitate enhanced net sediment deposition and a gradual fining of the bed material. These findings corroborate the coastal defence function of mangroves by quantifying their contribution to wave attenuation and sediment trapping. The explicit linking of these properties to vegetation composition and structure facilitates modelling studies investigating the mechanisms determining the coastal defence capacities of mangroves.     

Impact of lugworms (Arenicola marina) on mobilization and transport of fine particles and organic matter in marine sediments

We investigated the impact of sediment reworking fauna and hydrodynamics on mobilization and transport of organic matter and fine particles in marine sediments. Experiments were conducted in an annular flume using lugworms (Arenicola marina) as model organisms. The impact of lugworms on sediment characteristics and particle transport was followed through time in sediments experimentally enriched with fine particles (< 63 μm) and organic matter. Parallel experiments were run at low and high water current velocity (11 and 25 cm s^− 1) to evaluate the importance of sediment erosion at the sediment–water interface. There was no impact of fauna on sediment composition and particle transport at current velocity below the sediment erosion threshold. At current velocity above the erosion threshold, sediment reworking by lugworms resulted in dramatic particle transport (12 kg dry matter m^− 2) to an adjacent particle trap within 56 days. The transported matter was enriched 6–8 times in fine particles and organic matter when compared to the initial sediment. This study suggests that sediment reworking fauna is an important controlling factor for the particle composition of marine sediments. A. marina mediated sediment reworking greatly increases the sediment volume exposed to hydrodynamic forcing at the sediment–water interface, and through sediment resuspension control the content of fine particles and organic matter in the entire reworked sediment layer (> 20 cm depth).     

Application of a fuzzy inference system for the prediction of longshore sediment transport

A fuzzy inference system (FIS) and a hybrid adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system (ANFIS), which combines a fuzzy inference system and a neural network, are used to predict and model longshore sediment transport (LST). The measurement data (field and experimental data) obtained from Kamphuis [1] and Smith et al. [2] were used to develop the model. The FIS and ANFIS models employ five inputs (breaking wave height, breaking wave angle, slope at the breaking point, peak wave period and median grain size) and one output (longshore sediment transport rate). The criteria used to measure the performances of the models include the bias, the root mean square error, the scatter index and the coefficients of determination and correlation. The results indicate that the ANFIS model is superior to the FIS model for predicting LST rates. To verify the ANFIS model, the model was applied to the Karaburun coastal region, which is located along the southwestern coast of the Black Sea. The LST rates obtained from the ANFIS model were compared with the field measurements, the CERC [3] formula, the Kamphuis [1] formula and the numerical model (LITPACK). The percentages of error between the measured rates and the calculated LST rates based on the ANFIS method, the CERC formula (K_sig = 0.39), the calibrated CERC formula (K_sig = 0.08), the Kamphuis [1] formula and the numerical model (LITPACK) are 6.5%, 413.9%, 6.9%, 15.3% and 18.1%, respectively. The comparison of the results suggests that the ANFIS model is superior to the FIS model for predicting LST rates and performs significantly better than the tested empirical formulas and the numerical model.     

Phase-lag effects in sheet flow transport

The inception of the sheet flow regime as well as the effects of the phase lag when the sheet flow regime is established were investigated for oscillatory flows and combined steady and oscillatory flows. A new criterion for the inception of sheet flow is proposed based on around 300 oscillatory flow cases from experiments. This criterion was introduced in the Camenen and Larson [Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2005. A bedload sediment transport formula for the nearshore. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 63, 249–260.] bed load formula in order to take into account phase-lag effects in the sheet flow regime. The modification of the Camenen and Larson formula significantly improves the overall agreement with data and yields a correct behavior in relation to some of the main governing parameters, which are the median grain size d₅₀, the orbital wave velocity U_w, and the wave period T_w. The calibration of the new formula was based on more than 200 experimental data values on the net sediment transport rate for a full wave cycle. A conceptual model was also proposed to estimate the ratio between sediment transport rate with and without phase lag, (r_pl = q_s,net / q_s,net,ϕ=0). This simple model provides accurate results and may be used together with any quasi-steady model for bed load transport.     

Cross-slope zonation of erosion and deposition in the Faeroe-Shetland Channel,North Atlantic Ocean

Boundary currents and internal waves determine cross-slope zonation of erosion and deposition in the Faeroe-Shetland Channel. Currents were measured at 8 and 34–50 m above the bottom at three mooring sites (502, 595 and 708 m depth) for 14 days. The structure of the water column was evaluated from CTD sections, and included nepheloid layers and particulate matter concentrations. Indicators for recent deposition in the sediment (organic carbon, phytopigments, ²¹⁰Pb) were measured at eight stations across the slope. Strong near-bottom currents at the upper slope sustain down-slope particle transport in a benthic nepheloid layer, which is eroded under the influence of critically reflecting M₂ internal tidal waves at 350–550 m, where the major pycnocline meets the sloping bottom. Beam attenuation profiles confirmed the presence of intermediate nepheloid layers intruding into the Channel along the major pycnocline, and elevated concentrations of particulate matter and chlorophyll-a were measured at this depth. Near-bottom currents decreased with depth, thus allowing particle deposition down the slope. Inventories of excess ²¹⁰Pb activity in the sediment deeper than 600 m were higher than what was expected on the basis of atmospheric input of ²¹⁰Pb and production in the water column, thus indicating additional lateral inputs. Simple calculations showed that off-slope input of particles from areas shallower than 600 m may be responsible for the enhanced deposition at greater depths.     

Parameterization of nonlinear shallow water waves over sloping bottoms

Investigation of the bottom slope effects on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves, which are generated based on JONSWAP spectra, is carried out in a physical wave flume with three slopes (β = 1/15, 1/30, 1/45). The slope effects on the estimation of representative wave height are examined first. To obtain a better estimation of wave height, the slope effect should be considered when slope is larger than 1/30. The nonlinear parameters (bicoherence, skewness and asymmetry) are estimated by using the wavelet-based bispectrum, and the empirical formulae regarding these nonlinear parameters as a function of the local Ursell number are derived based on the present data measured on each slope. The results indicate that the slopes have a negligible effect on the variations of the skewness. The fitted coefficients of the formulae for the other parameters on slope β = 1/15 are clearly different from the results on the slopes β = 1/30 and 1/45, indicating that slope influence on the parameterization cannot be ignored when β > 1/30. Hence, new formulae considering the slope effect are presented. Furthermore, the empirical formulae for the data in surf zone are recommended.     

Wave climate scatter performance of a cycloidal wave energy converter

A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power P_W = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of P_G = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate.     

Biogenic fluxes in the Cariaco Basin: a combined study of sinking particulates and underlying sediments

The fluxes of total mass, organic carbon (OC), biogenic opal, calcite (CaCO₃) and long-chain C₃₇ alkenones (ΣAlk₃₇) were measured at three water depths (275, 455 and 930 m) in the Cariaco Basin (Venezuela) over three separate annual upwelling cycles (1996–1999) as part of the CARIACO sediment trap time-series. The strength and timing of both the primary and secondary upwelling events in the Cariaco Basin varied significantly during the study period, directly affecting the rates of primary productivity (PP) and the vertical transport of biogenic materials. OC fluxes showed a weak positive correlation (r²=0.3) with PP rates throughout the 3 years of the study. The fluxes of opal, CaCO₃ and ΣAlk₃₇ were strongly correlated (0.6<r²<0.8) with those of OC. The major exception was the lower than expected ΣAlk₃₇ fluxes measured during periods of strong upwelling. All sediment trap fluxes were significantly attenuated with depth, consistent with marked losses during vertical transport. Annually, strong upwelling conditions, such as those observed during 1996–1997, led to elevated opal fluxes (e.g., 35 g m⁻² yr⁻¹ at 275 m) and diminished ΣAlk₃₇ fluxes (e.g., 5 mg m⁻² yr⁻¹ at 275 m). The opposite trends were evident during the year of weakest upwelling (1998–1999), indicating that diatom and haptophyte productivity in the Cariaco Basin are inversely correlated depending on upwelling conditions.The analyses of the Cariaco Basin sediments collected via a gravity core showed that the rates of OC and opal burial (10–12 g m⁻² yr⁻¹) over the past 5500 years were generally similar to the average annual water column fluxes measured in the deeper traps (10–14 g m⁻² yr⁻¹) over the 1996–1999 study period. CaCO₃ burial fluxes (30–40 g m⁻² yr⁻¹), on the other hand, were considerably higher than the fluxes measured in the deep traps (∼10 g m⁻² yr⁻¹) but comparable to those obtained from the shallowest trap (i.e. 38 g m⁻² yr⁻¹ at 275 m). In contrast, the burial rates of ΣAlk₃₇ (0.4–1 mg m⁻² yr⁻¹) in Cariaco sediments were significantly lower than the water column fluxes measured at all depths (4–6 mg m⁻² yr⁻¹), indicating the large attenuation in the flux of these compounds at the sediment–water interface. The major trend throughout the core was the general decrease in all biogenic fluxes with depth, most likely due to post-depositional in situ degradation. The major exception was the relatively low opal fluxes (∼5 g m⁻² yr⁻¹) and elevated ΣAlk₃₇ fluxes (∼2 mg m⁻² yr⁻¹) measured in the sedimentary interval corresponding to 1600–2000 yr BP. Such compositions are consistent with a period of low diatom and high haptophyte productivity, which based on the trends observed from the sediment traps, is indicative of low upwelling conditions relative to the modern day.     

Organic matter budget in the Southeast Atlantic continental margin close to the Congo Canyon: In situ measurements of sediment oxygen consumption

A study of organic carbon mineralization from the Congo continental shelf to the abyssal plain through the Congo submarine channel and Angola Margin was undertaken using in situ measurements of sediment oxygen demand as a tracer of benthic carbon recycling. Two measurement techniques were coupled on a single autonomous platform: in situ benthic chambers and microelectrodes, which provided total and diffusive oxygen uptake as well as oxygen microdistributions in porewaters. In addition, sediment trap fluxes, sediment composition (Org-C, Tot-N, CaCO₃, porosity) and radionuclide profiles provided measurements of, respectively input fluxes and burial rate of organic and inorganic compounds.The in situ results show that the oxygen consumption on this margin close to the Congo River is high with values of total oxygen uptake (TOU) of 4±0.6, 3.6±0.5 mmol m⁻² d⁻¹ at 1300 and 3100 m depth, respectively, and between 1.9±0.3 and 2.4±0.2 mmol m⁻² d⁻¹ at 4000 m depth. Diffusive oxygen uptakes (DOU) were 2.8±1.1, 2.3±0.8, 0.8±0.3 and 1.2±0.1 mmol m⁻² d⁻¹, respectively at the same depths. The magnitude of the oxygen demands on the slope is correlated with water depth but is not correlated with the proximity of the submarine channel–levee system, which indicates that cross-slope transport processes are active over the entire margin. Comparison of the vertical flux of organic carbon with its mineralization and burial reveal that this lateral input is very important since the sum of recycling and burial in the sediments is 5–8 times larger than the vertical flux recorded in traps.Transfer of material from the Congo River occurs through turbidity currents channelled in the Congo valley, which are subsequently deposited in the Lobe zone in the Congo fan below 4800 m. Ship board measurements of oxygen profiles indicate large mineralization rates of organic carbon in this zone, which agrees with the high organic carbon content (3%) and the large sedimentation rate (19 mm y⁻¹) found on this site. The Lobe region could receive as high as 19 mol C m⁻² y⁻¹, 1/3 being mineralized and 2/3 being buried and could constitute the largest depocenter of organic carbon in the South Atlantic.     

Experimental study of interactions between multi-directional focused wave and vertical circular cylinder,part II: Wave force

We describe experiments with multi-directional focused waves interacted with a vertical circular cylinder in a 3D wave basin. The focus of this study is on the run-up of multi-directional focused waves, wave forces, and wave pressures on the cylinder. Part I, the study on wave run-up, has already been presented by Li et al. (2012). In this paper, the analysis of the wave force on the vertical cylinder is presented.In this experiment, a cylinder with 0.25 m in diameter was adopted and different wave parameters, such as focused wave amplitude, peak frequency, frequency bandwidth and directional spreading index, are considered. The model scale k_pa (k_p is the wave number corresponding to peak frequency, a is the radium of the cylinder) varies from 0.32 to 0.65. The maximum forces of multi-directional focused wave on cylinder were measured and investigated. The results showed that the wave parameters have a significant influence on the wave force, and that the spatial profile of the surface of multi-directional focused wave can also affect its force on the cylinder, which is different from two-dimensional wave. In addition, the ‘secondary loading cycle’ phenomenon was also observed and discussed. In our experiments, the ‘secondary loading cycles’ occur when kA > 0.36 for all cases. While in some referred small scale experiments, the secondary load cycles are observed even for kA = 0.2, when the waves are longer enough. To larger model scale, the pronounced secondary load cycle occurs with larger wave steepness waves.     

Geometry and migration characteristics of bedforms under waves and currents: Part 2: Ripples superimposed on sandwaves

This paper presents results of a series of detailed measurements of geometric and migrating characteristics of ripples superimposed upon sandwaves under the action of combined waves and currents. Velocity measurements within the fluid, surface wave characteristics and 3D mapping of the bottom were recorded with an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV), an acoustic water level sensor and a 32 composite element array of sub-aquatic acoustic sensors, respectively. Bottom records were statistically analyzed to obtain height, length and migration rates of ripples. Experiments examined ripple heights and wavelengths for the mobility factors (as defined in Eq. (4)) and the Reynolds wave number within the ranges 10 < ψ < 88 and 16 × 10³ < Re_w < 5 × 10⁵, respectively. Measured values were compared with laboratory and field data together with semi-empirical and analytical formulae from the literature. Good correlation was obtained when plotting measured ripple length and length in dimensionless form as a function of the Reynolds wave number Re_w. Under a given hydraulic condition, it was observed that ripples with different geometric characteristics may coexist at different locations over the sandwave. Ripple steepness is presented as a function of the Shields parameter although characterized with rather large scatter. Finally, average ripple migration speed is presented as a function of the Shields parameter and the mobility number.     

Organic carbon flux and remineralization in surface sediments from the northern North Atlantic derived from pore-water oxygen microprofiles

Organic carbon fluxes through the sediment/water interface in the high-latitude North Atlantic were calculated from oxygen microprofiles. A wire-operated in situ oxygen bottom profiler was deployed, and oxygen profiles were also measured onboard (ex situ). Diffusive oxygen fluxes, obtained by fitting exponential functions to the oxygen profiles, were translated into organic carbon fluxes and organic carbon degradation rates. The mean C_org input to the abyssal plain sediments of the Norwegian and Greenland Seas was found to be 1.9 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹. Typical values at the seasonally ice-covered East Greenland continental margin are between 1.3 and 10.9 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹ (mean 3.7 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹), whereas fluxes on the East Greenland shelf are considerably higher, 9.1–22.5 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹. On the Norwegian continental slope C_org fluxes of 3.3–13.9 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹ (mean 6.5 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹) were found. Fluxes are considerably higher here compared to stations on the East Greenland slope at similar water depths. By repeated occupation of three sites off southern Norway in 1997 the temporal variability of diffusive O₂ fluxes was found to be quite low. The seasonal signal of primary and export production from the upper water column appears to be strongly damped at the seafloor. Degradation rates of 0.004–1.1 mg C cm⁻³ a⁻¹ at the sediment surface were calculated from the oxygen profiles. First-order degradation constants, obtained from C_org degradation rates and sediment organic carbon content, are in the range 0.03–0.6 a⁻¹. Thus, the corresponding mean lifetime of organic carbon lies between 1.7 and 33.2 years, which also suggests that seasonal variations in C_org flux are small. The data presented here characterize the Norwegian and Greenland Seas as oligotrophic and relatively low organic carbon deep-sea environments.     

Late Cretaceous (Late Turonian,Coniacian and Santonian) petroleum source rocks as part of an OAE,Tarfaya Basin,Morocco

Late Turonian, Coniacian and Santonian source rock samples from a recently drilled well (Tafaya Sondage No. 2; 2010) in the Tarfaya Basin were analyzed for quantity, quality, maturity and depositional environment of the organic matter (OM). To our knowledge such a thick sequence of organic matter-rich Turonian to Santonian source rocks was investigated in that great detail for the first time. Organic geochemical and organic petrological investigations were carried out on a large sample set from the 200 m thick sequence. In total 195 core samples were analyzed for total organic carbon (C_org), total inorganic carbon contents and total sulfur (TS) contents. Rock-Eval pyrolysis and vitrinite reflectance measurements were performed on 28 samples chosen on the basis of their C_org content. Non-aromatic hydrocarbons were analyzed on selected samples by way of gas chromatography–flame ionization detection (GC–FID) and GC–mass spectrometry (GC–MS). The organic matter-rich carbonates revealed a high source rock potential, representing type I kerogen and a good preservation of the organic matter, which is mainly of marine (phytoplankton) origin. HI values are high (400–900 mg/g C_org) and in a similar range as those described for more recent upwelling sediments along the continental slope of North Africa. TS/C_org ratios as well as pristane over phytane ratios indicate variable oxygen content during sediment deposition. All samples are clearly immature with respect to petroleum generation which is supported by maturity parameters such as vitrinite reflectance (0.3–0.4%), T_max values (401–423 °C), production indices (S₁/(S₁ + S₂) > 0.1) as well as maturity parameters based on ratios of specific steranes and hopanes.