Distribution and thickness of sedimentary facies in the coastal dune, beach and nearshore sedimentary system at Maspalomas, Canary Islands

Numerous studies have shown that most beaches and coastal dune systems of the world are currently eroding but very few have investigated the combined sediment budgets of subaerial and nearshore submarine systems. In the case of the dune field of the Maspalomas Natural Special Reserve (in the south of Gran Canaria), the adjacent Maspalomas and El Inglés beaches and the adjacent submarine platform, the sediment budgets have been severely affected by erosion over the past few decades. The objectives of this study were to investigate the availability of sand within the modern sedimentary system, including the coastal dunes, the beaches and the submerged shelf, but also to assess local sediment sinks. An isopach map generated on the basis of topo-bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles revealed that sediment thickness varies from 0–22 m in the study area. Expanses of relatively low sediment thickness were identified in the south-western sector of the coastal dune field along Maspalomas beach, and in the nearshore region to the south of this beach. These localized sediment-deficit areas earmark Maspalomas beach as the most vulnerable shore strip threatened by erosion. The shallow seismic data also revealed that the submarine platform south of Maspalomas represents a marine terrace cut into an ancient alluvial fan, thus documenting an influence of the geomorphological heritage on the present-day morphodynamics. A side-scan sonar mosaic of this nearshore platform enabled the delimitation of areas covered by rock, boulders and gravel, vegetated sand patches and a mobile sand facies, the latter including ripple and megaripple fields. The megaripple field in a valley close to the talus of the marine terrace has been identified as a major sediment sink of the Maspalomas sedimentary system. It is fed by south-westerly storm-wave events. The sediment deficit in the coastal dune field and along Maspalomas beach can therefore only be explained by a currently faster loss of sediment to an offshore sink than can be compensated by the supply of sand from outside the system.     

Linear evolution of a shoreface nourishment

The morphological evolution of a shoreface nourishment is investigated by interpreting the nourishment as a linear perturbation of the natural system. The nourishment is projected onto the subset of linear eigenmodes with negative growth rates of the morphodynamical system. The evolution of these linear modes then determines the temporal behaviour of the shoreface nourishment. The method is presented, and results are shown for shoreface nourishments of different length scales on a straight coast and subject to normal incidence. Shoreface nourishments are represented by their expansions according to the projection method on a 1:50 plane beach profile. All nourishments are shown primarily to be diffusive features, with long scale nourishments diffusing more slowly than shorter length scale nourishments. Long scale nourishments also exhibit a shoreward movement during their decay. This all indicates that long length scale nourishments may be more beneficial in coastal engineering projects. This study is a first step towards nonlinear projection to study shoreface nourishment behaviour.     

Non-linear principal component analysis of nearshore bathymetry

Spatially and temporally extensive nearshore bathymetric datasets have recently been analyzed with complex principal component analysis (CPCA) to extract propagating spatial patterns that constitute most to the dominant lower-dimensional structure in the datasets. CPCA assumes this structure to be linear, which may be an oversimplification of the true structure as the nearshore is a strongly non-linear system. Here we investigate whether a neural network-based circular non-linear principal component analysis (NLPCA.cir) provides a more representative approximation of the underlying lower-dimensional structure of nearshore depth data than possible with CPCA. To that end, NLPCA.cir was applied to three datasets characterized by interannual offshore-directed sandbar behavior, coming from Egmond (The Netherlands), Hasaki Coast (Japan) and Duck (North Carolina, USA). The main difference between these datasets is the temporal variation in sandbar amplitude, which is smallest at Egmond and largest at Duck. We find that the first NLPCA.cir mode 1 at Egmond and Hasaki leads to a more complete characterization of the lower-dimensional data structure than possible with CPCA (i.e. the underlying low-dimensional structure of bathymetric data at Egmond and Hasaki is indeed non-linear). This is not the case at Duck, where the temporal variations in sandbar amplitude are so large that the non-linear lower-dimensional structure in the data, should it exist, is no longer visually apparent and can no longer be detected by NLPCA.cir. This suggests that a simple visual check of the data suffices to decide whether one should resort to NLPCA.cir or to the more simple and computationally quicker CPCA.     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。     

Video and field observations of wave attenuation in a muddy surf zone

Besides the different scales within which coastal processes manifest their energy, the majority of the world's coastal regions exhibit forms of sediment heterogeneity that are physically significant. One example of a heterogeneous environment is Cassino beach, located at the southernmost part of Brazil, a fine-grain-sized sandy beach where fluid mud sporadically is transported to the nearshore and eventually onto the beach. At this site in 2005, as part of a field experiment, a video system was installed. Three years after the installation, a large mud transgression event took place in February 2008 and had 5 km of extension. In this context, the goal of the present work is to characterize the mud deposition pattern across the surf zone, describing the consequences of mud on nearshore dynamics using remote sensing techniques, beach profiles and suspended matter concentration. The surveyed beach profiles registered the deposition of fluid mud at the inner surf zone with concentrations up to 12 mg/l. The material was deposited close to the shoreline and had a cross-shore width of 100 m during the first deposition day occupying the entire water column. From surf zone time series of pixel intensity, it was possible to detect the attenuation of the surface wave spectra due to the presence of fluid mud. The combination of video techniques and field data allowed one to follow the formation of a double-layer system, where fluid mud overlays the sandy bottom. The video-based system at Cassino demonstrated that remote detection of fluid mud and quantification of its effect on the nearshore dynamics is feasible. The combination of beach profiles, measurements of suspended matter concentration and intensity timestacks allowed the analysis of the short-term evolution of the mud depositional processes.     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

Immediate profile and planform evolution of a beach nourishment project with hurricane influences

In this study, planform adjustment began during a period of calm weather immediately after nourishment and then the passage of one strong storm caused a substantial portion of the total profile equilibration. Weekly beach profiles, shoreline surveys, and nearshore wave measurements were conducted before, during, and immediately after construction of the 1100-m long Upham Beach nourishment project on the low-energy, west coast of Florida. This project was constructed in three segments: the wide north segment, the central segment, and the narrow south segment. With the exception of the relatively distant passage of Hurricane Charley, calm weather prevailed for 45 days following completion of the south and central segments. Construction of the wide north segment was completed on August 27, 2004. Substantial planform diffusion occurred prior to construction completion via formation of a 300-m long spit extending from the wide north segment. The shoreline orientation was changed abruptly due to this diffusion spit formation, as opposed to the gradual adjustment predicted by most long-term models. Planform adjustment was initiated prior to profile equilibration, and it did not require high-energy conditions. A simple vector sum model for determining the orientation of a potential diffusion spit was developed. This study recommends designing end transitions at the predicted diffusion spit orientation to avoid post-nourishment spit formation during future projects.     

基于连岛沙坝原理设计的海滩排水管头地貌稳定性研究

海滩排水管建设对海滩环境影响较大。以厦门会展中心连岛沙坝式排水管头工程影响海滩演变为例,研究连岛沙坝式海滩排水管头对海滩地形稳定性和沉积的影响。1)通过对研究区连岛沙坝式管头附近海滩10条剖面进行分析,研究管头附近海滩滩肩宽度、滩面坡度和单宽留存沙量等剖面形态变化特征。测量数据分析表明,无管头保护滩面高程降低,滩面坡度总体变陡,滩肩蚀退严重;受管头保护滩面高程上升,坡度变缓,滩肩宽度略有减小,剖面单宽沙量留存比例大于1。2)2012-2016年多期岸线及管头边界线变化结果表明,工程施工后,排水管身始终被沙体覆盖,一年后部分管头被沙体覆盖,最终管头被覆盖率稳定在70%以上。3)会展管头附近海滩潮上带和高潮带沉积物自北向南运移,低潮带则相反;潮上带和中潮带上部沉积物从管头所在"连岛沙坝"向两侧海滩输移,而低潮带和中潮带下部输移方向相反。沉积物粒径由岸向海逐渐变粗,越靠近管头,沉积物粒径呈变细趋势。最后讨论了引起管头局部海滩地形地貌变化的主要因素。     

黄河三角洲孤东海域沉积物及水动力

根据黄河三角洲孤东近岸海域表层沉积物取样、水文泥沙观测和风浪资料推算,分析沉积物特征和运移趋势,并通过水动力条件(潮流和波浪)探讨沉积物起动和输移特征。结果表明,孤东海域沉积物多为粉砂类物质,由内向外逐渐变细,分选变差,丁坝的修建对周围粒径分布影响明显;沉积物运移趋势受风成余流、岸线轮廓和丁坝工程修建的影响,不同区域表现为不同的输移方向;研究区水动力表现为波浪掀沙、潮流输沙的特征,由于潮流较小,不足以引起泥沙的起动,泥沙起动主要由波浪引起。     

荷兰诺德维克水下抛沙修复海滩及其意义

水下抛沙养滩可以通过消减波能和持续向海滩供沙,以抵御海岸侵蚀,保持海滩稳定。荷兰诺德维克(Noordwijk)地区以发育水下双坝地形为特征,为了维护海滩和海岸的稳定,自1998年开始,共实施了3次水下养滩(1998、2002和2006年),抛沙位置都选在外沙坝的向海侧,接近当地闭合深度。养滩减缓了沙坝向海迁移的速率,内、外沙坝均出现了向岸迁移的趋势并基本保持稳定,对海岸线位置变化具有积极影响。我国目前的海滩养护工程多为向陆上滩面抛沙养滩,这种方法较昂贵、破坏性大,效果有时不佳,而水下抛沙养滩经济实惠、对环境影响小且灵活,因此,应该充分借鉴水下抛沙养滩的成功经验。基于诺德维克地区数十年的Argus视频图像和水深调查对养滩效果进行了研究和分析,总结了水下养滩的意义,以丰富和推动我国养滩业的发展。     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

海滩体积时空变化和波浪场的奇异谱分析

海滩响应波浪动力作用的变化是海岸带陆海相互作用研究的重要内容.利用奇异谱分解方法对南湾海滩连续实测剖面的体积变化值与南湾逐日波高变化值的相关关系进行了探讨,以诊断分析波浪在海滩变化过程中的内在作用机制,结果表明:(1)海滩体积的时空变化与波浪作用力有明显的相关关系;(2)海滩响应波浪动力作用变化最明显的地方是在中间岸段,在直线岸段次之,在遮蔽岸段最弱;(3)对海滩变化有较强作用的波浪场分别位于近岸及其与上下岬角连线的邻近区域.     

基于HJ卫星的近岸Ⅱ类水体叶绿素a浓度定量遥感反演研究——以滦河口北部海域为例

为验证环境卫星影像在近岸Ⅱ类水体中叶绿素a浓度反演的适宜性,获得适合滦河口北部近岸海域的叶绿素a浓度的高精度反演算法,基于HJ-1A CCD2影像数据和现场同步实测数据,构建、验证并确立适合研究区叶绿素a浓度反演模型。结果表明:HJ-1A CCD2卫星可用于水文情况较复杂的近岸Ⅱ类水体叶绿素a浓度的反演研究;最佳波段组合（B3/B1）构建的倒数模型,可反演叶绿素a浓度。结果显示叶绿素a浓度整体由近岸向内海方向逐渐减小,自北向南逐渐降低,并在河口处形成向外海突出的高值区;叶绿素a浓度最大值出现在金山嘴南侧,为25.0 μg/L。离岸叶绿素a浓度最小值出现在滦河口以东约13.2 km处,仅4.6 μg/L;近岸叶绿素a浓度最小值出现在滦河口附近,约为11.0 μg/L。该研究可为相关研究提供技术参考,研究成果可为当地政府科学管理海洋环境、制定海洋政策提供决策依据,为该海域可持续发展提供数据支持。     

北海银滩响应台风作用的动力地貌过程

极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。     

Two-dimensional wave-current interaction with a locally enriched quadtree grid system

Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach.     

Field observations of waves generated by passing ships: A note

This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms.     

Data-based yearly forecasting of beach volumes along the Dutch North Sea coast

Beach and nearshore levels have been measured yearly along the entire Dutch North Sea coast since the mid 1960s (the ‘Jarkus’ data set). This data set has been processed to create separate time series of beach volumes at longshore intervals of about 250 m, giving over 2000 time series in total. These time series typically show a high annual variability with weak long-term trends. The present Dutch national coastal management strategy involves making year-ahead forecasts of beach volumes by extrapolating a linear least squares trend through the previous ten years' data separately for each longshore location. In this paper, these forecasts are shown to be worse than the trivial forecast in which the most recently measured beach volume persists unchanged into the future, with a mean square error (MSE) about 13.5% worse (equivalent to a root mean square error (RMSE) 6.5% worse). Improvements to these forecasts are sought by testing six different univariate forecasting methods. The two best methods improve on the persistence of the most recently measured beach volume by about 15% MSE (8% RMSE), and on the presently used linear least squares trend method by about 25% MSE (13.5% RMSE). Further comparisons are made between the forecasting methods to investigate several factors. These include varying the amount of fitting data for the forecasting methods, smoothing of the fitting data, different methods for interpolating gaps in the data, the longshore aggregation of data, making forecasts for coastal profiles with and without nourishments, and making forecasts up to five years ahead. These forecasting methods are designed as a coastal management tool to provide yearly forecasts quickly and routinely for the whole Dutch North Sea coast.     

The role of video imagery in predicting daily to monthly coastal evolution

Owing to intensified use of the coastal region and the frequent application of small-scale, tailored interventions such as beach nourishments, there is a growing need for coastal state information and knowledge on spatiotemporal scales of meters to kilometers and days to months. The design and implementation of engineering and management measures at these scales is hampered by limited predictability of their impact. Advanced, automated video stations open the door towards the collection of long-term, high-resolution data sets, which offer enhanced opportunities for the prediction of coastal processes at smaller scales. In this paper, the added value of high-resolution data sets for prediction purposes is explored. In particular the application of data-driven approaches as well as process models supported by video data are explored. In the data-driven approach, the inclusion of monthly video-derived data was found to not only improve confidence intervals on the predicted shoreline evolution, but also to facilitate the use of more sophisticated data extrapolation methods. Short-term, operational forecasts of the nearshore flow and sediment transport field were found to benefit from the inclusion of intertidal bathymetric data derived from video imagery. Though in its pioneering stage for video-based research, it is foreseen that significant advancement in prediction skill will be achieved through development of data-assimilation schemes which combine the best of existing process and empirical knowledge on coastal morphodynamics.     

近期辽东湾西侧砂质海滩冲淤特征

2013-2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2 cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。     

现代黄河三角洲沿岸泥沙运移与岸滩侵蚀态势研究

现代黄河三角洲的泥沙运移是河-海动力相互作用下的泥沙分配和再分配结果。现行水口门区岸滩和水下岸坡仍以不大的速率向海淤进,三角洲西段和南段沿岸基本处于动态平衡状态,三角洲中段广大岸段大都处于不同程度的冲刷蚀退态势。冲刷蚀退已严重地恶化了黄河现代三角洲的发育功能和三角洲经济开发环境,对油田的滩海工程和海上设施造成了严重威胁。