Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

Spectral distribution of wave energy dissipation by salt marsh vegetation

Spectral energy dissipation of random waves due to salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) was analyzed using field data collected during a tropical storm. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were measured over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using 3 pressure transducers. The storm produced largely bimodal spectra on the wetland, consisting of low-frequency swell (7–10 s) and high-frequency (2–4.5 s) wind-sea. The energy dissipation varied across the frequency scales with the largest magnitude observed near the spectral peaks, above which the dissipation gradually decreased. The wind-sea energy dissipated largely in the leading section of the instrument array in the wetland, but the low-frequency swell propagated to the subsequent section with limited energy loss. Across a spectrum, dissipation did not linearly follow incident energy, and the degree of non-linearity varied with the dominant wave frequency. A rigid-type vegetation model was used to estimate the frequency-dependent bulk drag coefficient. For a given spectrum, this drag coefficient increased gradually up to the peak frequency and remained generally at a stable value at the higher frequencies. This spectral variation was parameterized by employing a frequency-dependent velocity attenuation parameter inside the canopy. This parameter had much less variability among incident wave conditions, compared to the variability of the bulk drag coefficient, allowing its standardization into a single, frequency-dependent curve for velocity attenuation inside a canopy. It is demonstrated that the spectral drag coefficient predicts the frequency-dependent energy dissipation with more accuracy than the integral coefficient.     

Analysis of temporal and spatial characteristics of waves in the Indian Ocean based on ERA-40 wave reanalysis

Based on the 45-year (09/1957-08/2008) European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis (ERA-40) wave reanalysis dataset, this study analyzes interannual and interdecadal variabilities and intraseasonal oscillations of sea surface wind speed (WS), wind sea wave height (H^w), swell wave height (H^s) and significant wave height (H_s) in the Roaring Forties and tropical waters of the Indian Ocean, to determine swell propagation characteristics. The results show: (1) monthly variabilities of H^s in the Roaring Forties are in good agreement with those in tropical waters of the Indian Ocean; swell plays a dominant role in mixed waves throughout most of the Indian Ocean; and WS, H^w, H^s, and H_s exhibit a significant increasing trend over the 45-year study period. (2) H^s in the Roaring Forties and tropical waters of the Indian Ocean share a common period of 9.8–10.4 years on an interdecadal scale; and WS and H^s in the Roaring Forties and H^s in the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean share a common period of approximately 8 days (weekly oscillation) on an intraseasonal scale. (3) Swell of the Roaring Forties needs approximately 30 h to fully respond to the wind in this region. Approximately 84 h are required for H^s to propagate from the Roaring Forties to the tropical waters of the south Indian Ocean, while it takes approximately 132–138 h for H^s to propagate from the Roaring Forties to the tropical waters of the north Indian Ocean.     

Numerical simulations of wave–current flow in an ocean basin

Wave–current flow is a phenomenon that is present in many practical engineering situations. Over the past several decades, this type of flow has been increasingly investigated under controlled laboratory conditions. This paper presents a numerical study of wave–current flow in the ocean basin of the LabOceano (COPPE/UFRJ). A homogeneous multiphase model based on the RANS equations and the k–ɛ turbulence model implemented in ANSYS-CFX code were used. A cross section of the ocean basin was represented. A regular wave with a height of 0.08 m and a period of 1.80 s (i.e., a wave steepness of H/L = 0.016), propagating on favourable currents, was simulated. The behaviour of the free surface elevation over time and the streamlines along the basin for wave and wave–current flows were presented. The numerical results were compared to the non-viscous theory given by the Rayleigh equation applied to the problem of wave–current interaction. Good agreement was found between the wave length estimated by the numerical results and the analytical solutions, with a deviation of less than 2%.     

Wave climate scatter performance of a cycloidal wave energy converter

A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power P_W = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of P_G = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate.     

Late Holocene paleoceanography and climate variability over the Mackenzie Slope (Beaufort Sea,Canadian Arctic)

Late Holocene paleoceanography and climate variability of the Southeastern Beaufort Sea (Canadian Arctic) have been investigated on the basis of sedimentary cores collected over the Mackenzie Slope. Piston, trigger and box cores were sampled at station 803 in 2004 aboard the CCGS Amundsen at 218 m water depth. The chronology of the piston core is constrained by 4 AMS-¹⁴C dates, as the sedimentation rate in the box core is assessed from ²¹⁰Pb data. We obtain a continuous composite sequence covering the last 4600 years, with a sedimentation rate of ~ 140 cm.kyr^? 1. Transfer functions (modern analogue technique) based on dinoflagellate cyst (dinocyst) assemblages were used to reconstruct the evolution of sea-surface conditions over the time period covered by the cores.Palynological data reveal that dinocyst assemblages are dominated by Operculodinium centrocarpum sensu lato (mean of 43.3%) throughout the core, with the accompanying taxa Brigantedinium spp. (19.6%), Islandinium minutum (15.6%) and cysts of Pentapharsodinium dalei (13.7%). Four zones have been established on the basis of dinocyst relative abundances. Dinocyst assemblage zone 1 (D1), from 4600 to 2700 cal years BP, is dominated by O. centrocarpum (mean of 49.0%). In zone D2 (2700–1500 cal years BP), the relative abundances of O. centrocarpum decrease (34.4%) in favour of the opportunistic, heterotrophic taxa Brigantedinium spp. (28.8%) and cysts of Polykrikos sp. var. arctic/quadratus (2.8%). Dinocyst zone D3 (1500–30 cal years BP or 450–1920 AD) is characterised by the high relative abundance of the peridinioid taxa I. minutum (19.9%). The last zone (D4), spanning from 1920 to 2004 AD, is again dominated by O. centrocarpum (44.5%), and shows low relative abundances of Brigantedinium spp. and cf. Echinidinium karaense.Quantitative reconstructions of past sea-surface parameters (August sea-surface temperature: SST, August sea-surface salinity: SSS, and duration of sea-ice cover) indicate relatively stable conditions over the last 4.6 kyr, with episodic cooling events (SST of ~ 1.5 °C below the modern value of 6 °C) that took place between 700 and 1820 AD. We associate the last and the longest of these cooling events (1560–1820 AD) with the Little Ice Age. Reconstructed SSS shows decadal oscillations since 1920 AD that we tentatively associate with the accumulation of freshwater by the Beaufort Gyre and the subsequent Great Salinity Anomalies. Our data suggest that similar salinity anomalies could have occurred ca. 1860 and 1790 AD.Stable isotopic data show a slight increase in δ¹³C values (from ~?27.1‰ at the base to ~?25.8‰ at the top) over the last 4.6 kyr that we associate with the gradual increase in atmospheric CO₂ concentration as recorded by Antarctic ice cores. Variations in the δ¹⁵N profile suggest variations in Pacific water influence from 4600 to ~ 1300 cal years BP, associated with centennial scale shifts of the Arctic Oscillation phases.     

Wave climate variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades

Ocean surface gravity waves play a major role in many engineering and environmental problems, both in the open ocean and in coastal zones. Therefore, it is essential to improve our knowledge on spatial and temporal variability of wave climate. This study aims at investigating this variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean (25°W–0°W and 30°N–60° N), using a 57-year hindcast (1953–2009) obtained with a spectral wave model forced with reanalysis wind fields. The hindcast analysis reveals firstly strong seasonal fluctuations of wave climate, with winters characterized by large and long-period waves of mean direction spreading from south-west to north-west, and summers characterized by smaller and shorter-period waves originating from norther directions. From northern (55°N) to southern (35°N) latitudes, the significant wave height (Hs) decreases by roughly 40%, the mean wave direction (Mwd) rotates clockwise by about 25% while the peak period (Tp) only grows by 5%. These three parameters also exhibit a strong inter-annual variability, particularly when winter-means (from 1st of December to 1st of April) are considered. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows spatially variable long-term trends, with a significant increase of Hs (up to 0.02 m yr^?1) and a counterclockwise shift of Mwd (up to ?0.1° yr^?1) at northern latitude, contrasting with a fairly constant trend for Hs and a clockwise shift of Mwd (up to +0.15° yr^?1) at southern latitudes. Long-term trends of Tp are less significant, with still a slight increase in the north-eastern part of the study area (up to +0.01 s yr^?1). Eventually, a comparison between the inter-annual variability of the winter-means of the three selected wave parameters and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) reveals: (1) a strong positive correlation between Hs and the NAO index at northern latitudes (correlation coefficient up to R = 0.91) and a significant negative correlation at southern latitudes (up to R = ?0.6); (2) no significant correlation for Mwd north of 40°N and a clear positive correlation southward of 40°N (up to R = 0.8) and (3) a northward increasing correlation for Tp (up to R = 0.8). Long-term trends for Hs, Mwd and Tp are finally explained by a significant increase in the NAO index over the studied period.     

Trade-wind waves and mud dynamics on the French Guiana coast,South America: Input from ERA-40 wave data and field investigations

The South American coast between Brazil and Venezuela is affected by longshore migrating mud banks derived from the fine-grained Amazon sediment discharge. Onshore mud migration prevails over shallow ‘bank’ areas alternating alongshore with deeper ‘inter-bank’ areas. The transport on the inner shelf, and attachment to the shoreline, of this migrating mud has been attributed mainly to wind waves. However, the lack of in situ data on waves hampers understanding of the relationship between waves and mud dynamics. A 44-yr record (1960–2004) of the ERA-40 wave dataset generated by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used, in conjunction with field investigations in French Guiana, to define both event-scale and longer-term patterns of mud mobilisation induced by waves. The ratio H₀³ / T², combining wave height H and period T, and the angle of wave incidence α, were singled out as the most relevant parameters for describing wave forcing. Typical ‘bank’ and ‘inter-bank’ profiles and corresponding mud densities, and a 3-month record of changes in the thickness of the fluid mud layer in an estuarine navigation channel were monitored by echo-sounding from October 2002 to January 2003. An 80-day record of bed-level changes in the intertidal zone was obtained from August to November 2004 using a pressure transducer. The results on the wave regime of French Guiana confirm a distinctly seasonal pattern, and highlight an increase in H₀³ / T² over the 44-yr period related to an increase in trade-wind velocities determined from corresponding trends in Atlantic wind pseudo-stress off the South American coast. Wave forcing over bank areas leads to the liquefaction of a 1–3 m-thick layer of mud that is transported onshore (and alongshore by the longshore component of wave energy). The episodic nature of high wave energy events generally results in the formation of mud bar features from the shoreward mobilisation of gel-like fluid mud. The effect of waves on mud is particularly marked following long periods of low energy, and especially at the onset of the high wave energy season (October to May), when even moderate wave energy events can lead to significant mobilisation of mud.Significant phases of increased wave energy are attended by higher long-term (annual) rates of longshore mud bank migration but the correlation is rather poor between the wave forcing parameter H₀³ / T² and migration rates because stronger wave forcing is generally associated with low angles of wave incidence. This suggests a complementary role of other hydrodynamic mechanisms, such as geostrophic and tidal currents, in longshore mud bank migration.     

Florida Current transport variability: An analysis of annual and longer-period signals

More than forty years of Florida Current transport estimates are combined to study annual and longer-term variability in this important component of the MOC and subtropical gyre. A detailed analysis with error estimates illustrates the difficulties in extracting annual and longer time scale variability given the strong higher frequency energy present. The annual cycle represents less than 10% of the total Florida Current transport variance in a 16 yr segment of the record, while interannual (13–42 month) variability represents only 13% of the total and periods longer than 42 months represents less than 10% of the total. Given the observed high frequency variability of the Florida Current, in order to get a monthly mean that is accurate to within 0.5 Sv (one standard error level) more than 20 daily observations are needed. To obtain an estimate of the annual climatology that is “accurate” to within 20% of its own standard deviation, at least 24 yr of data is needed. More than 40 observations spread throughout a year are required to obtain an annual mean that is accurate to within 0.5 Sv. Despite these daunting data requirements, there is sufficient data now to evaluate both the annual cycle of the Florida Current transport with a high degree of accuracy and to begin to determine the longer period transport variability. Comparison of the Florida Current, NAO and wind stress curl records shows that a recently described Sverdrup-based mechanism explains a significant fraction of the long-period variability primarily during the 1986–1998 time window, with other mechanisms clearly dominating before and after.     

Effects of mesoscale phytoplankton variability on the copepods Neocalanus flemingeri and N. plumchrus in the coastal Gulf of Alaska

The copepods Neocalanus flemingeri and N. plumchrus are major components of the mesozooplankton on the shelf of the Gulf of Alaska, where they feed, grow and develop during April–June, the period encompassing the spring phytoplankton bloom. Satellite imagery indicates high mesoscale variability in phytoplankton concentration during this time. Because copepod ingestion is related to food concentration, we hypothesized that phytoplankton ingestion by N. flemingeri and N. plumchrus would vary in response to mesoscale variability of phytoplankton. We proposed that copepods on the inner shelf, where the phytoplankton bloom is most pronounced, would be larger and have more lipid stores than animals collected from the outer shelf, where phytoplankton concentrations are typically low. Shipboard feeding experiments with both copepods were done in spring of 2001 and 2003 using natural water as food medium. Chlorophyll concentration ranged widely, between 0.32 and 11.44 μg l⁻¹ and ingestion rates varied accordingly, between 6.0 and 627.0 ng chl cop⁻¹ d⁻¹. At chlorophyll concentrations<0.50 μg l⁻¹, ingestion is always low, <40 ng cop⁻¹ d⁻¹. Intermediate ingestion rates were observed at chlorophyll concentrations between 0.5 and 1.5 μg l⁻¹, and maximum rates at chlorophyll concentrations>1.5 μg l⁻¹. Application of these feeding rates to the phytoplankton distribution on the shelf allowed locations and time periods of low, intermediate and high daily feeding to be calculated for 2001 and 2003. A detailed cross-shelf survey of body size and lipid store in these copepods, however, indicated they were indistinguishable regardless of collection site. Although the daily ingestion of phytoplankton by N. flemingeri and N. plumchrus varied widely because of mesoscale variability in phytoplankton, these daily differences did not result in differences in final body size or lipid storage of these copepods. These copepods efficiently dealt with small and mesoscale variations in their food environment such that mesoscale structure in phytoplankton did not affect their final body size.     

Short-term environmental variability in cold-water coral habitat at Viosca Knoll,Gulf of Mexico

The Lophelia pertusa community at Viosca Knoll (VK826) is the most extensive found to date in the Gulf of Mexico. As part of a multi-disciplinary study, the physical setting of this area was described using benthic landers, CTD transects and remotely operated vehicle observations. The site was broadly characterised into three main habitats: (1) dense coral cover that resembles biogenic reef complexes, (2) areas of sediment, and (3) authigenic carbonate blocks with sparse coral and chemosynthetic communities. The coral communities were dominated by L. pertusa but also contained numerous solitary coral species. Over areas that contained L. pertusa, the environmental conditions recorded were similar to those associated with communities in the north-eastern Atlantic, with temperature (8.5–10.6 °C) and salinity (～35) falling within the known species niche for L. pertusa. However, dissolved oxygen concentrations (2.7–2.8 ml l^?1) and density (σ_Θ, 27.1–27.2 kg m^?3) were lower and mass fluxes from sediment trap data appeared much higher (4002–4192 mg m^?2 d^?1). Yet, this species still appears to thrive in this region, suggesting that L. pertusa may not be as limited by lower dissolved oxygen concentrations as previously thought. The VK826 site experienced sustained eastward water flow of 10–30 cm s^?1 over the 5-day measurement period but was also subjected to significant short-term variability in current velocity and direction. In addition, two processes were observed that caused variability in salinity and temperature; the first was consistent with internal waves that caused temperature variations of 0.8 °C over 5–11 h periods. The second was high-frequency variability (20–30 min periods) in temperature recorded only at the ALBEX site. A further pattern observed over the coral habitat was the presence of a 24 h diel vertical migration of zooplankton that may form part of a food chain that eventually reaches the corals. The majority of detailed studies concerning local environmental conditions in L. pertusa habitats have been conducted within the north-eastern Atlantic, limiting most knowledge of the niche of this species to a single part of an ocean basin. Data presented here show that the corals at VK826 are subjected to similar conditions in temperature, salinity, and flow velocity as their counterparts in the north-east Atlantic, although values for dissolved oxygen and density (sigma-theta: σ_Θ) are different. Our data also highlight novel observations of short-term environmental variability in cold-water coral habitat.     

Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow

New experiments were carried out in the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel of WL|Delft Hydraulics (scale 1:1) using asymmetric 2nd-order Stokes waves. The main aim was to gain a better understanding of size-selective sediment transport processes under oscillatory plane-bed/sheet-flow conditions. The new data show that for uniform sand sizes between 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm, measured net transport rates are hardly affected by the grain size and are proportional to the third-order velocity moment. However for finer grains (D = 0.13 mm) net sand transport rates change from the ‘onshore’ direction into the ‘offshore’ direction in the high velocity range. A new measuring technique for sediment concentrations, based on the measurement of electro-resistance (see [McLean, S.R., Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M. and Hassan, W.N.M., 2001. Sediment transport measurements within the sheet flow layer under waves and currents. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ISSN 0733-950X]), was developed further for the improved measurement of sediment dynamics inside the sheet-flow layer. This technique enabled the measurements of particle velocities during the complete wave cycle. It is observed that for long period waves (T = 12.0 s), time-dependent concentrations inside the sheet-flow layer are nearly in phase with the time-dependent flow velocities. As the wave period decreases, the sediment entrainment from the bed as well as the deposition process back to the bed lags behind the wave motion more and more. The new data show that size-gradation has almost no effect on the net total transport rates, provided the grain sizes of the sand mixture are in the range of 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm. However, if very fine grains (D = 0.13 mm) are present in the mixture, net total transport rates of graded sand are generally reduced in comparison with uniform sand with the same D₅₀. The transport rates of individual size fractions of a mixture are strongly influenced by the presence of other fractions in a mixture. Fine particles in sand mixtures are relatively less transported than in that uniform sand case, while the opposite occurs for coarse fractions in a mixture. The relative contribution of the coarse grains to the net total transport is therefore larger than would be expected based on their volume proportion in the original sand mixture. This partial transport behaviour is opposite to what is generally observed in uni-directional (e.g. river) flows. This is caused by vertical sorting of grain sizes in the upper bed layer and in the sheet flow and suspension layers. Kinematic sorting is believed to be responsible for the development of a coarse surface layer on top of a relatively fine sub-layer, providing in this way a relatively large flow exposure for the coarser sizes. Furthermore fine grains are suspended more easily than coarse grains to higher elevations in the flow where they are subject to increasing phase-lag effects (settling lags). The latter also leads to reduced net transport rates of these finer sizes.     

Analytical investigation of hydrodynamic performance of a dual pontoon WEC-type breakwater

Based on the linear potential flow theory and matching eigen-function expansion technique, an analytical model is developed to investigate the hydrodynamics of two-dimensional dual-pontoon floating breakwaters that also work as oscillating buoy wave energy converters (referred to as the integrated system hereafter). The pontoons are constrained to heave motion independently and the linear power take-off damping is used to calculate the absorbed power. The proposed model is verified by using the energy conservation principle. The effects of the geometrical parameters on the hydrodynamic properties of the integrated system, including the reflection and transmission coefficients and CWR (capture width ratio, which is defined as the ratio of absorbed wave power to the incident wave power in the device width). It is found that the natural frequency of the heave motion and the spacing of the two pontoons are the critical factors affecting the performance of the integrated system. The comparison between the results of the dual-pontoon breakwater and those of the single-pontoon breakwater shows that the effective frequency range (for condition of transmission coefficient K_T < 0.5 and the total capture width ratio η_total > 20%) of the dual-pontoon system is broader than that of the single-pontoon system with the same total volume. For the two-pontoon system, the effective frequency range can be broadened by decreasing the draft of the front pontoon within certain range.     

Experimental study of interactions between multi-directional focused wave and vertical circular cylinder,part II: Wave force

We describe experiments with multi-directional focused waves interacted with a vertical circular cylinder in a 3D wave basin. The focus of this study is on the run-up of multi-directional focused waves, wave forces, and wave pressures on the cylinder. Part I, the study on wave run-up, has already been presented by Li et al. (2012). In this paper, the analysis of the wave force on the vertical cylinder is presented.In this experiment, a cylinder with 0.25 m in diameter was adopted and different wave parameters, such as focused wave amplitude, peak frequency, frequency bandwidth and directional spreading index, are considered. The model scale k_pa (k_p is the wave number corresponding to peak frequency, a is the radium of the cylinder) varies from 0.32 to 0.65. The maximum forces of multi-directional focused wave on cylinder were measured and investigated. The results showed that the wave parameters have a significant influence on the wave force, and that the spatial profile of the surface of multi-directional focused wave can also affect its force on the cylinder, which is different from two-dimensional wave. In addition, the ‘secondary loading cycle’ phenomenon was also observed and discussed. In our experiments, the ‘secondary loading cycles’ occur when kA > 0.36 for all cases. While in some referred small scale experiments, the secondary load cycles are observed even for kA = 0.2, when the waves are longer enough. To larger model scale, the pronounced secondary load cycle occurs with larger wave steepness waves.     

Variability of chlorophyll and primary production in the Eastern North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre: potential factors affecting phytoplankton activity

Size-fractionated chlorophyll-a and carbon incorporation rates were determined on a series of 13 cruises carried out from 1992 to 2001with the aim of investigating the patterns and causes of variability in phytoplankton chlorophyll and production in the Eastern North Atlantic Subtropical Gyral Province (NASE). Averaged (±SE) integrated chlorophyll-a concentration and primary production rate were 17±1 mg m⁻² and 253±22 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹. Small-sized cells (<2 μm) formed the bulk of phytoplankton biomass (71%) and accounted for 54% of total primary production. A clear latitudinal gradient in these variables was not detected. By contrast, large seasonal variability was detected in terms of primary production, although integrated phytoplankton biomass, as estimated from chlorophyll-a concentration, remained rather constant and did not display significant changes with time. Variability in primary production (PP) was related mainly to variability in surface temperature and surface chlorophyll-a concentration. The control exerted by surface temperature was related to nutrient availability. By contrary, euphotic-zone depth, depth of maximum concentration of chlorophyll-a and integrated chlorophyll-a did not contribute significantly to the high variability in primary production observed in this oligotrophic region.     

Surface wave predictions in weakly nonlinear directional seas

We have employed laboratory and numerical experiments in order to investigate propagation of waves in both long and short-crested wave fields in deep water. For long-crested waves with steepness, ϵ = k_ca_c = 0.1 (a fairly extreme case), reliable prediction can be performed with the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation up to about 40 characteristic wavelengths. For short-crested waves the accuracy of prediction is strongly reduced with increasing directional spread.     

Spatial and temporal variability of POC in the northeast Subarctic Pacific

Particulate organic carbon (POC) concentrations from 0 to 1000 m were quantified in size-fractionated particulate matter samples obtained by the multiple unit large volume in situ filtration system (MULVFS) in 1996 and 1997 along the 1600 km long “line P” transect from continental slope waters near southern Vancouver Island to Ocean Station PAPA (OSP, 50°N, 145°W). Regression of in situ POC vs. beam attenuation coefficient, c, from a simultaneously deployed 1-m pathlength SeaTech transmissometer gave slope, intercept and r² values of 6.15±0.19×10⁻⁵ m⁻¹ (nmol C l⁻¹)⁻¹, 0.363±0.003 m⁻¹, and 0.951 (n=145), respectively. This result agreed within several percent of calibrations obtained from two 2600-km-long transects of the equatorial Pacific in 1992 (Bishop, 1999). Data from other, more frequently deployed transmissometers were standardized against the 1-m instrument, and the combined optical data set was used to document POC variability at finer spatial and temporal scales than could be sampled directly using either conventional water bottle casts or MULVFS. Published bottle POC vs. c relationships show much more variability and remain problematic. Along the line P transect in the salinity-stratified upper 100 m, POC isolines shoaled from winter to summer in concert with seasonal stratification. At the same time, POC was progressively enriched in subeuphotic zone waters to depths greater than 500 m. Near-surface POC fields sampled in the winter time showed strong temporal POC variability over time scales of days as well as between years. POC concentrations at OSP in February 1996 were higher than those found at any other time of year. Less variability was found along line P in other seasons. In May 1996, kilometer-scale spatial variability of POC at OSP was small; dawn vs. dusk variations of c were used to calculate 0–100 m POC turnover times shorter than 6 d. Calculations also suggest that 25–50% of primary productivity was expressed as dissolved organic carbon at OSP in May 1996.     

Dynamics at an elongated,intermediate depth seamount in the North Atlantic (Sedlo Seamount, 40°20′N, 26°40′W)

Observations from a five-mooring array deployed in the vicinity of Sedlo Seamount over a 4-month period, together with supporting hydrographic and underway ADCP measurements, are described. Sedlo Seamount is an elongated, intermediate depth seamount with three separate peaks, rising from 2200 m water depth to summit peaks between 950 and 780 m depth, located at 40°20′N, 26°40W. Currents measured in depth range 750 and 820 m – the layer close to the summit depth of the shallowest southeast peak – showed a mean anti-cyclonic flow around the seamount, with residual current velocities of 2–5 cm s⁻¹. Significant mesoscale variability was present at this level, and this is attributed to the weak and variable background impinging flow. Stronger, more persistent currents were found at the summit mooring as a result of tidal rectification and some weak amplification. Below 1300 m, currents were extremely weak, even close to the seabed. Time series of relative vorticity for the depth layer 750–820 m showed persistent anti-cyclonic vorticity except for two periods of cyclonic vorticity. A mean relative vorticity of −0.06f (f=the local Coriolis frequency) was calculated from a triangle of current meters located at the flanks of the seamount. Modelling results confirmed that anti-cyclonic flow above the seamount was likely due to Taylor Cone generation driven by a combination of steady impinging and tidally rectified flow. The closed circulation pattern over the seamount was found to extend to ∼150 m above the summit level, consistent with simple idealised theory and the supporting hydrographic observations. At shallower depths (<500 m) model simulations predicted a predominantly cyclonic recirculation most likely controlled by topographic steering along the zonal axis of the seamount. There was some indication of flow reversal at these depths from Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) measurements carried out at one hydrographic survey. The model results were in good agreement with observations at the seamount summit, but were unable to reproduce the mesoscale variability patterns recorded in shallower layers. Kinetic energy patterns derived from the model revealed high variability in the oceanic far field downstream of the seamount summit probably as a result of complex flow interaction along the chain of seamount peaks. Possible impacts of the flow dynamics on the biological functioning at Sedlo Seamount and its surroundings are discussed.     

Offshore wind farm impacts on surface waves and circulation in Eastern Lake Ontario

A coupled wave and hydrodynamic model was applied to the Kingston Basin of eastern Lake Ontario, a region with bathymetric variability due to channels and shoals, to assess the potential impacts on surface waves and wind-driven circulation of an offshore wind farm. The model was used to simulate a series of storm events with time-varying wind forcing and validated against wave, current and water level observations. The wind farm was simulated by adding semi-permeable structures in the surface wave model to represent the turbine monopiles, and by adding an energy loss term to the fluid momentum equations in the hydrodynamic model to represent the added drag of the monopiles on the flow. The results suggest that the wind farm would have a small influence on waves and circulation throughout the wind farm area, with spatial variability due to focussing of wave energy and re-direction of the flow. Overall, the results indicate that the wave height in coastal areas will be minimally affected with changes in significant wave height predicted to be < 3%. Larger changes to the strength of circulation occur inside the wind farm region with localized changes in current magnitude of up to 8 cm s^− 1. The results of this study may help to understand the impacts of future offshore wind farms and other offshore structures in the Great Lakes.