Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.     

Hydrodynamics identities and wave-drift force of a porous body

In the present study, hydrodynamic interactions between water waves and porous bodies are investigated. Various hydrodynamic identities, such as the Haskind relation, Bessho-Newman relation etc., are systematically re-examined. Some of these identities, such as the symmetry of added mass and damping and the Haskind-Hanaoka relation, are still valid for porous bodies even without modification to the identities. However, when energy dissipation due to porosity is involved, appropriate supplementation is required to properly consider porous effects. In addition, the calculation of wave drift forces acting on a porous body is formulated either by pressure integration or using momentum conservation as basis. We conclude that porosity dissipation makes a more substantial contribution to wave drift forces than does conventional dissipation created by scattered and radiated waves.     

Variations in turbulent energy dissipation and water column stratification at the entrance of a tidally energetic strait

We observed tidal currents, turbulent energy dissipation and water column stratification at the entrance of a narrow strait (Neko Seto) in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan, using a free-falling turbulent microstructure profiler (TurboMAP) and acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The variation in turbulent energy dissipation at the entrance of the strait was not at quarter-diurnal frequency but at semi-diurnal frequency; turbulent energy dissipation was enhanced during the ebb tide, although it was moderate during the flood tide. This result is consistent with the results of Takasugi (1993), which showed the asymmetry of tidal energy loss during a semidiurnal tidal cycle using control volume analysis. It is suggested that significant turbulent energy dissipation is generated in the strait, which influences the properties of water outside the strait when tidal currents flow out from the strait.     

双平板式透空堤消能效果评价方法

双平板式透空堤具有较为优越的消浪性能备受专家学者关注。目前关于其消浪性能的评价多采用透射波高法开展,仅考虑波高一个参数。本文采用透射波高法、波浪能量法和波能流法分别对平板式透空堤的消能效果进行评价,结果表明,综合考虑波高、水深和周期三个参数的波能流法更加全面与深入。探讨了双平板式透空堤迎浪向与背浪向处波能流的主要影响因素,结果表明,相对板宽、位置参数和波高大小对波能流的影响较板间距和潜深更加显著。     

Distribution of bottom stress and tidal energy dissipation in a well-mixed estuary

Estimates of area-averaged tidal bottom stress are made for four channel segments of the Great Bay Estuary, N.H. Current and sealevel measurements are used to estimate acceleration and pressure gradient terms in the equation of motion, while the equation of motion itself is used to infer the remaining stress term. Dynamic terms, bottom stress values, friction coefficients and energy dissipation rates are estimated for each site. The analysis shows that while throughout the estuary the principal force balance is between the frictional stress and the pressure gradient forcing, RMS values of total bottom stress range from 2·67 to 10·38 Nm^?2 and friction coefficients vary from 0·015 to 0·054. Both stress and energy dissipation are largest in the seaward portion of the estuary with an order of magnitude decrease in dissipation at the most inland site.These distributions of stress and energy dissipation are consistent with cotidal charts of the principal semi-diurnal tidal constituent (M₂) which indicate that the estuary is composed of a highly dissipative more progressive tidal wave regime seaward and a less dissipative standing wave regime landward.     

An evaluation of wave propagation simulations over a barred beach with a Boussinesq-type model

The FUNWAVE model is used for simulating simulation of monochromatic and irregular wave propagation in a channel with a bar-trough profile. FUNWAVE is based upon the extended Boussinesq equations. The study aims to analyze the model's performance when simulating shoaling, wave breaking and nonlinear interactions that are present in nearshore wave propagation. For that, high-order time domain statistics (root mean-square wave height, skewness, asymmetry and the kurtosis) of the model simulations and of the observations were compared along the whole channel. Also, a frequency domain analysis including standard spectral analysis and the bispectrum was carried out in selected points of the flume. The evaluation included the role of the wave breaking internal model parameters. The main conclusion is that, in general, the one-dimensional version of FUNWAVE simulates quite well the nonlinear transformation of a wave over a bottom with a bar-tough profile, for both regular and irregular wave conditions. The model reproduces the transformation of the wave shape, specially the increasing sharper wave crests and flatter troughs and also the lack of vertical symmetry with crests pitching forward, as it propagates along the domain. However, some differences persist after wave breaking, mainly due to the nature of the wave-breaking module. In this module, the energy dissipation is induced by the increase of viscosity, a rather simple mechanism, without the modification of the wave shape. Also, the energy dissipation develops in a smooth way which is appropriated for spilling breaking waves, but not for plunging breaking waves where the dissipation starts more abruptly.     

孤立波与升沉水平板相互作用数值模拟研究

合理的刚度和潜深设计可以使升沉水平板获得优异的消浪性能。基于考虑流体黏性的二维不可压缩Navier-Stokes方程,以高阶紧致插值CIP(constrained interpolation profile)方法求解方程对流项,采用VOF(volume of fluid)方法重构自由液面,构建二维数值波浪水槽。采用试验数据验证模型后,研究孤立波与升沉水平板相互作用,分析相对刚度K*、相对潜深d/h、相对波高H/h对于升沉板的消浪性能和运动响应的影响,揭示升沉板对孤立波的消浪机理。研究表明:在孤立波通过时,升沉板会经历一个先上升后下降的运动,随后非线性自由振动,板下方水体近似均匀流动,且水流的垂向流动与板的垂荡方向一致;升沉板主要通过不对称涡旋脱落、浅水变形、波浪反射与辐射波转化等方式消耗孤立波能量;一定条件下,采用最优相对刚度K*=4.0和最优相对潜深d/h=0.52可以取得良好的消浪效果,此时透射系数最小,同时升沉板的运动响应在合理的范围内。     

Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker

The characteristics of turbulence created by a plunging breaker on a 1 on 35 plane slope have been studied experimentally in a two-dimensional wave tank. The experiments involved detailed measurements of fluid velocities below trough level and water surface elevations in the surf zone using a fibre-optic laser-Doppler anemometer and a capacitance wave gage. The dynamical role of turbulence is examined making use of the transport equation for turbulent kinetic energy (the k-equation). The results show that turbulence under a plunging breaker is dominated by large-scale motions and has certain unique features that are associated with its wave condition. It was found that the nature of turbulence transport in the inner surf zone depends on a particular wave condition and it is not similar for different types of breakers. Turbulent kinetic energy is transported landward under a plunging breaker and dissipated within one wave cycle. This is different from spilling breakers where turbulent kinetic energy is transported seaward and the dissipation rate is much slower. The analysis of the k-equation shows that advective and diffusive transport of turbulence play a major role in the distribution of turbulence under a plunging breaker, while production and dissipation are not in local equilibrium but are of the same order of magnitude. Based on certain approximate analytical approaches and experimental measurements it is shown that turbulence production and viscous dissipation below trough level amount to only a small portion of the wave energy loss caused by wave breaking. It is suggested that the onshore sediment transport produced by swell waves may be tied in a direct way to the unique characteristics of turbulent flows in these waves.     

Acoustic-gravity waves in a nonadiabatic atmosphere

The effect of a real departure of the atmosphere from the adiabaticity condition on the generation and dissipation of acoustic-gravity waves (AGWs) throughout the entire height of the atmosphere up to the mesopause (≈90 km) is studied. The results of solving the derived dispersion equation can be helpful in the formation of boundary conditions during simulation of the propagation of wave disturbances in the thermosphere and above. Unlike an adiabatic model, in a nonadiabatic model of the atmosphere, the frequencies (the roots of the dispersion equation) are complex and waves attenuate in some atmospheric layers, whereas other layers are unstable with respect to the onset of the corresponding AGW modes. As the height increases, the phase velocities of both acoustic and gravity branches of AGWs decrease and dissipation is enhanced. It is shown that macroscopic flows, along with periodic disturbances, are generated in a nonadiabatic atmosphere.     

潜堤上破碎波浪传播变形的数值模型及其验证

为模拟潜堤上破碎波浪传播时产生能量的耗散这一特性,在改进的具有四阶色散的Boussinesq水波方程中中入二阶紊动粘性项,建立了考虑波浪破碎的水波数学模型.在非交错网格下建立了有限差分数值模型,并利用三阶Adams-Bash forth格式预报、四阶Adams-Mouton格式校正对数值模型进行求解.通过数值试验,模拟...     

Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.     

废轮胎多孔隙消波结构物特性之初期研究

基于废旧轮胎再利用及研发简易且低廉的施工方法与维护成本,本研究以规则波水工模型试验研究提出应用于港口码头的多孔隙弹性帷幕的初步理念。利用模型车轮胎以模块化方式组装成弹性帷幕后安装于码头前壁,研究多种周期波浪作用及不同消波室纵深对波浪反射率的影响。实验结果表明,简单的单一消波室多孔隙弹性帷幕对短周期波浪的消波效果较显著,消波室纵深较大者反射率较低,但可能引致水体振荡,后续可再强化消波室的消能效果。未来如能妥善研究废旧轮胎应用于多孔隙弹性帷幕消波结构物的施工与维修方法,除可缓解废旧轮胎处理给环境带来的压力外,也提供一种可用于简易渔港的施工简单、维修容易且资源再利用的消能结构物,该工程技术亦可输出至发展中国家,符合可持续发展观。     

聚焦波作用下透水潜堤消波特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压数值计算模型,本文系统研究了聚焦波作用下透水潜堤的消波特性,通过设置合理的计算工况,详细分析了波高、堤顶水深、谱峰周期、孔隙率以及堤顶宽度5种因素对透水潜堤消波特性的影响。与此同时,本文将透水潜堤的计算结果同不透水潜堤的计算结果进行了对比分析。计算结果表明:透水潜堤对聚焦波的消减作用要强于不透水潜堤,从而说明,透水潜堤能更有效地降低畸形波对海岸基础设施的影响;波高和堤顶水深是影响潜堤消波特性的重要因素,随入射波高增加、堤顶水深减小,透水潜堤对波浪的消减作用逐渐增强。透水潜堤对长周期波浪的消波效果较差。在本文考虑的孔隙率范围内,孔隙率越大,透水潜堤消波效果越好;当孔隙率为0.4,堤顶宽度为0.612 5 m时,透水潜堤可消减54%的入射波能,比不透水潜堤对入射波能的消减增加36.1%。本文研究结果可为进一步认识透水潜堤的消波特性和海岸防护工程设计提供相应的参考。     

Features of Profiles for Currents,Momentum Flux,and a Turbulence Dissipation Rate in Wind-Wave Channel

Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - Vertical profiles of the mean horizontal currents U(z), the vertical momentum fluxes τ(z), and the turbulence kinetic-energy dissipation rates (TKE...     

海底接驳盒装置的散热结构设计及其热分析

针对海底接驳盒装置的散热方式及结构进行了研究探讨.基于热传导散热机理,设计了一种圆柱内壁面结合螺杆顶紧的散热结构,使接驳盒装置的散热效率有所提高.针对所设计的散热结构进行了不同温度下不同发热功率下的仿真实验,得到了相对应的最高温度曲线.还进行了水箱接驳盒装置的散热实验,与所得有限元仿真数据进行了横向对比,进一步确定了所设计散热结构的合理性.     

Evaluation of a high-resolution wave hindcast model SWAN for the West Mediterranean basin

This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient C_ds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with C_ds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.     

Observing spectral characteristics over a continental shelf and slope in the South China Sea

Using in situ measurement data from May-June, 1998, and data from the Asian seas international acoustics experiment （ASIAEX） from 2001 in the South China Sea （SCS）, the spectral density function and the dissipa- tion spectrum function are estimated. In the inffa-gravity wave （IGW） band, the power spectra of velocity （u, v, w） are universal functions with respect to characteristic frequencies, which correspond to the peak fre- quencies of the dissipation spectrum （PFDS）. This suggests that high-frequency internal waves in the IGW band have similar dynamical characteristics. In addition, the evolution of these characteristic frequencies is explored and its highest value is 8.8 cph （cycles per hour, 1 cph=2.778× 10-3 Hz）.     

Energy budget of surface waves in the global ocean

Mechanical energy input from atmosphere and losses from wave-breaking dissipation of sea surface waves are estimated by a direct scheme. This scheme is based on the integration in the wavenumber space of the wind input and breaking dissipation source functions of the MASNUM wave model. The global amount of wind energy input, averaged in 2005, is about 57 TW, and the wave-breaking dissipation summed in deep-water is about 33 TW, over a half of the wind energy input. The residual may be dissipated by beach processes. Global distributions of the energy input and breaking dissipation concentrate in the westerlies of the Southern Hemisphere.     

夏季长江口及其邻近海域湍流特征分析

利用2019年7月在长江口科学考察实验研究夏季航段(NORC2019-03-02)中获得的MSS90L湍流剖面仪的直接观测数据,本文计算并分析了该断面的湍动能耗散率ε和垂向湍扩散系数K_Z的分布情况。湍动能耗散率的大小为1.72×10?10～2.95×10?5 W/kg;垂向湍扩散系数的大小为3.24×10?7～4.55×10?2 m2/s。湍动能耗散率和垂向湍扩散系数的分布相似,均为上层最强,底层次之,中层最弱。上层由于风应力的作用,使得湍动能耗散率和垂向湍扩散系数较大;温跃层处层化较强,抑制了湍动能的耗散和垂向上的湍混合。盐度锋面的次级环流会促使低盐水团脱离,锋面引起的垂向环流会加强海洋的湍混合。低盐水团与外界的能量交换较少,湍动能耗散率较弱。长江口海区存在明显的上升流和下降流,它们是由锋面的次级环流产生的;上升流和下降流的存在促进湍动能的耗散与湍混合。     

风廓线雷达结合RASS反演湍流耗散率的方法

为探索反演湍流耗散率的最优方法,促进湍流规律和机理研究以及相关方法的业务化应用,文章根据风廓线雷达和无线电-声探测系统的探测原理,选取实例数据,通过虚温计算的布维频率和大气湍流引起的谱宽反演湍流耗散率。研究结果表明:该方法较为有效和简便,适用于加装无线电-声探测系统的风廓线雷达;湍流耗散率并不完全随高度增加而递减,而存在某高度层内湍流较强的现象;湍流耗散率与大气稳定度相互影响。