Water waves within a porous medium on an undulating bed

Water wave refraction–diffraction within a porous medium on an undulating seabed is considered based on linear wave theory. Using the model of wave-induced flow within a porous medium and Galerkin eigenfunction expansions, refraction–diffraction equations for surface waves are derived. With these equations, the wave reflection from a porous structure on a sloping beach is investigated and numerical results of reflection coefficients are obtained. A comparison between the present results with those in the literature is made for a special case and the agreement is satisfactory. This structure can be viewed as an idealized model of rubble-mound seawalls along coastlines.     

Distributions of freak wave heights measured in the North Sea

We present a statistical analysis of some of the largest waves occurring during 793 h of surface elevation measurements collected during 14 severe storms in the North Sea. This data contains 104 freak waves. It is found that the probability of occurrence of freak waves is only weekly dependent on the significant wave height, significant wave steepness and spectral bandwidth. The probability does show a slightly stronger dependency on the skew and kurtosis of the surface elevation data, but on removing the contribution to these measures from the presence of the freakwaves themselves, this dependency largely disappears.Distributions of extreme waves are modelled by fitting Generalised Pareto distributions, and extreme value distributions and return periods are given for freak waves in terms of the empirical fitted parameters. It is shown by comparison with these fits that both the Rayleigh distribution and the fit of Nerzic and Prevosto severely under-predict the probability of occurrence of extreme waves. For the most extreme freak wave in our data, the Rayleigh distribution over-predicts the return period by about 300 times when compared to the fitted model.     

杭州湾北部实测波浪特征

为了解杭州湾北部波浪特性,利用杭州湾北部一年实测波浪资料,统计分析该地区的波参数变化特征,运用回归分析获得波参数之间的相关关系,并用谱参数及波谱形态分析了实测波浪频谱的变化特性。结果表明,与杭州湾南部海域波浪特性明显不同之处是热带气旋对本观测水域波浪的影响强度大于冬季季风的影响强度,较大波浪主要由热带气旋引起,并且路径相似的热带气旋在杭州湾南、北部测点引起的最大波浪其参数较为接近。研究水域常浪向分布在东东北至东南向,强浪向主要分布在东东北方向。研究成果可为河口海湾相关工程的设计建造和沿海防灾减灾提供重要参考。     

Effect of sampling rate on wave height statistics

This paper examines the effects of digital processing, and therefore discretisation or sampling, of sea surface elevations that are, in reality, continuous. Using random linear wave theory, probability distributions for the measured (as opposed to actual) wave amplitudes and heights have been obtained which are conditional on the sampling rate. It is shown that with low sampling rates there are significant departures from the usual Rayleigh distribution. Rates of 1 Hz or less may lead to significant underestimation of the probability of very large waves. An analysis of full-scale measurements obtained from a platform in the North Sea supports these results.     

Variations in the Baltic Sea wave fields

The surface waves in the Baltic Sea are hindcast with the spectral wave model HYPAS during a 12-month period. The model results show a strong temporal and spatial variation in the wave field due to the physical dimensions of the different basins and the predominant wind field. The highest waves in the area are found in the outer part of Skagerrak, as well as in the central and southern parts of the Baltic Proper. To get significant waves above 6 m high, strong winds (15–20 m/s) must have been blowing for 6 to 24 h from a favourable direction over a deep area.     

黄海潮波系统下的GOCI反演及OSU模式海表流场数据适用性研究

黄海呈现独有的地形条件,且该海域的潮波运动独具特征。本文利用静止海洋水色成像仪（Geostationary Ocean Color Imager, GOCI）遥感反演和俄勒冈州立大学（Oregon State University,OSU）潮流模式分别获取了黄海海域的海表流场,基于该海域独特的潮波系统提出并识别潮波干涉区,进而对GOCI反演的流场做潮流提取,并对两种潮流数据作分区可用性评价,通过实测的漂流浮标数据验证评估。结果表明：利用GOCI反演和OSU潮流模式获取的海表流场具有一定程度的可靠性,GOCI反演的海表流场的流速平均相对大小误差值为0.77,OSU潮流模式获取的海表流场流速平均相对大小误差值为0.49;在靠近潮波干涉区的黄海中部海域,GOCI潮流数据与实测数据在方向上的一致性要优于OSU潮流数据,两者平均角度误差值分别为48.45°和63.10°;在远离潮波干涉区的黄海近岸海域,OSU潮流数据与实测数据在速度大小和方向上的一致性要优于GOCI潮流数据。     

The turbidity maxima of the northern Jiangsu shoal-water in the Yellow Sea,China

The Yellow Sea general circulation model coupled to a sediment transport model with and without surface waves was implemented to study sediment distribution and resuspension in the northern Jiangsu shoal-water (NJSW) in March and April 2006–2008. With surface wave, the general features of model simulated turbidity maxima agreed well with the MODIS remote sensing data. Without wave, the turbidity maxima moved offshore with much reduced suspended sediment concentration (SSC). This demonstrated that surface waves played a dominant role over the tides to form the turbidity maxima in the region. The study also found that NJSW exported sediments to the Yellow Sea and East China Sea through offshore and southern boundaries. As March and April 2008 was a wind anomalous year with a decreased wind speed over last three years, the wind generated waves in the region were also reduced, leading to lower sediment resuspension and SSC in that year.     

The influence of quasi resonant internal waves on the radar imaging mechanism of shallow sea bottom topography

During previous field experiments in the North Sea it was often assumed that the water column in such shallow coastal tidal waters is vertically well mixed and stratification was neglected when discussing the Normalized Radar Cross Section modulation caused by the sea floor. In this paper the influence of quasi resonant internal waves with the sea bed on the radar imaging mechanism of submarine sand waves itself is investigated. In situ data of the tidal current velocity and several water quality parameters such as sea surface temperature, fluorescence, and beam transmittance were measured in the Southern Bight of the North Sea in April 1991. Simulations of the total NRCS modulation caused by sand waves and internal waves as a function of the current gradient or strain rate induced by the internal wave current field at the sea surface have been carried out using the quasi-steady approximation and linear internal wave theory. As a first approximation the strain rate depending on stratification was calculated using the two-layer model. These simulations demonstrate that at least a density difference between the two layers of the order of Δρ ≈ 1 kg m^–3 is necessary for a sinusoidal thermocline to effect the total NRCS modulation considerably. The NRCS modulation as a function of wind friction velocity has been calculated independently and is discussed with regard to the strain rate of the surface current field caused by the superimposed imaging mechanisms of sand waves and internal waves. It turned out that the existence of a surface roughness-wind stress feedback mechanism cannot be excluded.     

Experimental method to measure surface signature generation by seabottom undulations

An experimental method to investigate submarine bedform signatures at the sea surface is described. The study area was the Lister Tief in the German Bight of the southeastern North Sea, a semienclosed tidal basin with asymmetric and very large sand waves. In-situ and remote measurements of surface roughness were obtained simultaneously. An X-band wave monitoring radar, an oceanographic multisensor sea surface buoy, an acoustic Doppler current profiler, and a standard echo sounder were operated on and from board a research vessel while drifting along the tidal channel     

秋末寒潮大风作用下南黄海西部流场及温、盐度变动特征分析

1983年11月中美首次在南黄海西部开展水文和地质联合调查,该调查共设5个浮标站和54个CTD站,其中CTD站所获的温、盐度和溶解氧、透光度资料早已有过一些报道,并获得了一些有益的结论(丁宗信等,1986;熊庆成等,1986;赵保仁等,1986)。但对这次调查所取得的浮标测流资料尚未有人进行认真的分析研究,也未曾报道过。这次测流还是比较成功的,所揭示的现象使人感到振奋,而且这也是迄今在南黄海西部使用浮标最多、时间最长的一次浮标阵测流工作。 本文试图结合1983年11月调查时的海上风速和沿岸水位变化进行综合分析,并对那里的环流状态提出一些初步看法,以利于对南黄海西部水域的海流变动特征和生成机制进行更深入的研究。     

1957～2002年南海—北印度洋海浪场波候特征分析

利用ERA-40海表10 m风场驱动第三代海浪数值模式WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ,得到南海—北印度洋1957年9月至2002年8月的海浪场,并分析其波候(风候)特征.研究发现如下主要特征:(1)该海域的波高波向、风速风向受季风影响显著;(2)北印度洋大部分海域的海表风速呈显著性逐年线性递增趋势,大约0.01～0.02 m/(s·a),南海线性递增的区域则较少,有效波高呈显著性逐年线性递增的区域主要集中在低纬度中东印度洋(约0.003～0.006 m/a)、索马里附近海域(大约0.002～0.005 m/a)、南海大部分海域(约0.002～0.004 m/a),线性递减的区域主要集中在孟加拉湾海域(约-0.002 m/a);(3)Nino3指数与南海—北印度洋的海表风场、浪场存在密切的关系;(4)南海—北印度洋的海表风速与有效波高存在5.2a左右的共同周期,南海的海表风速、有效波高还存在2.0a左右的共同周期,北印度洋的海表风速、有效波高还存在26.0a的长周期震荡.     

单突堤后的波浪绕射

波浪绕射现象是确定港域掩护状况的主要因素,在设计港口防波堤工程时必须予以考虑,以便根据港口使用要求,选择最佳的外堤布置方案,确保船舶作业安全并节省工程投资。防波堤工程可有各种不同布局,其中最常见的一种为单突堤。其它如岛堤、双突堤,从计算堤内水域波况的观点着眼,在一定条件下其性质亦属于单突堤一类。因此,研究单突堤后的波浪绕射规律具有较普遍的实际意义。     

一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定波向的方法

船用X波段雷达被广泛应用于海洋表面波观测和研究。本文给出了一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定主波传播方向的方法。X波段雷达图像中的海浪信号具有明显的尺度性和方向性。同时,curvelet变换作为一种同时具备尺度分辨率和方向分辨率的数学变换,能够对一幅雷达图像在不同尺度、不同方向和不同位置上进行分析。对一幅雷达图像进行curvelet分解并获得curvelet系数后,波浪信号主要集中在某些特定尺度和方向的curvelet系数中,从而我们可以获得带有 方向模糊的波传播方向。进而,通过计算几幅连续采集图像的互相关系数可以消除 方向模糊。同步观测的雷达图像和浮标数据证明了该方法的有效性。     

Quantitative backscatter measurements with a long-range side-scansonar

It is shown that useful relative backscatter strengths can be calculated from GLORIA long-range side-scan sonar data using a simple acoustic model. The calculation was performed on GLORIA side-scan sonar data collected during 1987 in the southern Indian Ocean. GEOSECS hydrographic information was used to access the effects of refraction (ray bending and aspherical spreading signal losses). Sea Beam bathymetry was used to correct the effective insonified area and compute the grazing angle. A major difficulty in performing this calculation over the terrain chosen (mid-ocean ridge topography) was one of adjusting navigation so that small features in Sea Beam and GLORIA data matched. Preliminary results show a 10-dB falloff in backscatter strength with decreasing grazing angle (10°-40°) at 6.5 kHz over what must presumably be a rough surface (extruded basalts and breccias)     

欧洲北海海域波高区间分布概率研究

为了研究欧洲北海海域的波高全区域概率分布情况,从而为海洋平台等海洋浮式结构物的选址和结构设计提供依据。首先基于Global Waves Statistics(GWS)提供的实测数据,确定典型计算工况的发生概率;同时考虑实测数据中极端波浪环境下的数据缺失导致大波高分布概率偏小的问题,利用三参数Weibull分布确定不同重现期下的极值风速,作为典型计算工况的补充。以不同风速、风向的定常风场为输入项,利用第三代海浪数值模型SWAN模型,对北海全区域波高进行数值模拟。将数值模拟的稳态形式依照各工况的发生概率进行归一化累加处理,认为其结果可以表征全区域的波高概率分布情况。以波高概率分布的计算结果为依据,分析北海海域波浪环境的统计学特征,发现有效波高为7 m以上的大波高频发区在北海北部区域有大范围分布;有效波高4～5 m为北海东北区域的多发海况,极端海况下的有效波高主要分布于7～14 m区间,在地形突变区域的波高发生显著变化。     

Spectral wave data assimilation for the prediction of waves in the North Sea

Spectral observations from pitch-and-roll buoys have been assimilated in a North Sea wave model, in order to study their impact on the wave analysis and forecast. The assimilation is based on Optimal Interpolation (OI) of a limited number of characteristic spectral parameters. In a case study, the propagation of the corrections through the model domain is followed, and it is clarified for which wave conditions the data assimilation has the largest influence on the forecast: this is especially the case for swell waves with long travel times between the assimilation site and the location where validation is carried out. A 1-year test has been carried out in which an analysis and subsequent forecast were produced four times a day. From a statistical analysis of the results a modest but systematic improvement of the 12-h forecast is found. When only swell cases are selected, the impact is more pronounced. It is argued that for shelf seas like the North Sea, more progress is to be expected from extension of the ‘conventional' observations network (buoys and wave radars) than from satellite measurements.     

Late Devonian rifting in the central North Sea: Evidence from altered felsic volcanic rocks in the Embla oil field

In the Embla oil field on the northern flank of the Mid North Sea High, the central North Sea, multiple quartz porphyric volcanic beds at ca. 4600 m depth form part of a volcano-sedimentary interval above the Caledonian basement as interpreted from seismic data. Zircon U–Pb laser ablation ICPMS date one bed to 374 ± 3 Ma, indicating that the volcanic rocks and interbedded sediments are early Famennian and correlate to the Buchan Formation. The volcanic rocks have been extensively clay and carbonate altered in a near-surface environment, but high field strength element data show that the protoliths were alkali rhyolites, yielding intra-plate signatures in tectonic discrimination diagrams. Famennian quartz porphyric volcanic rocks have also been reported from well A17-1 on the southern flank of the Mid North Sea High. The Famennian volcanism on the northern and southern flanks testify to an active magmatic environment in the central North Sea in the early Famennian, supporting the existence of a late Devonian proto-Central Graben rift extending northwards into the central North Sea. The rift is likely an early example of strain localisation to a zone of reduced crustal strength along the Caledonian suture between Avalonia and Baltica.     

Infragravity waves with internal wave characteristics in the south of the Bohai Sea of China

The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves.     

A Model for Nonlinear Irregular Waves in Coastal Area

Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results.     

Atmospheric frontal gravity waves observed in satellite SAR images of the Bohai Sea and Huanghai Sea

In the satellite synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images of the Bohai Sea and Huanghai Sea, the authors observe sea surface imprints of wave-like patterns with an average wavelength of 3.8 km. Comparing SAR observations with sea surface wind fields and surface weather maps, the authors find that the occurrence of the wave-like phenomena is associated with the passing of atmospheric front. The authors define the waves as atmospheric frontal gravity waves. The dynamical parameters of the wave packets are derived from statistics of 9 satellite SAR images obtained from 2002 to 2008. A two-dimensional linear physical wave model is used to analyze the generation mechanism of the waves. The atmospheric frontal wave induced wind variation across the frontal wave packet is compared with wind retrievals from the SAR images. The CMOD-5 (C-band scatterometer ocean geophysical model function) is used for SAR wind retrievals VV (transmitted vertical and received vertical) for ENVISAT and HH (transmitted horizontally and received horizontally) for RADARSAT-1. A reasonable agreement between the analytical solution and the SAR observation is reached. This new SAR frontal wave observation adds to the school of SAR observations of sea surface imprints of AGWs including island lee waves, coastal lee waves, and upstream Atmospheric Gravity Waves (AGW).