波浪在陡坡上的传播变化

利用数值方法和物理模型分析以反射为主的陡坡上波浪传播变形特征。数值方法采用标记单元法,为处理倾斜反射边界对斜坡前波浪运动的影响,提出了“台阶镜像法”。通过１：１．５光滑斜坡上物理模型试验,分析了不完全立波的运动特性,说明强反射光滑陡坡坡前波浪运动呈明显的立波状态,它与直墙反射的主要判别是坡前第一波节点和腹点位置向岸推移。本试验得到的波浪反射、爬高和回落特征值与港口工程规范给定结果接近。     

考虑波能耗散的近岸波浪传播数学模型

基于考虑能耗的定常缓坡方程，推导得出包含波能耗散的近岸水域波浪传播变形数学模型，并用所得模型对浅水中波浪的传播进行了计算，将计算结构与Berkhoff的实验数据进行比较，表明二者吻合很好。该数学模型能较好地解决波浪在浅水中的传播变形问题。     

波致海底缓倾角无限坡滑动稳定性计算分析探讨

波浪作用下海底无限坡滑动稳定性计算的极限平衡法中,忽略了坡体水平向应力状态的影响,为此,针对波浪作用下海底缓倾角无限边坡的特点,提出直接基于滑动面处土体应力状态的滑动稳定性计算方法(简称应力状态法),并分析了其适用范围。对具体算例的分析表明,应力状态法计算得出的安全系数大于极限平衡法的安全系数,且随着滑动面深度的增加、土体泊松比以及边坡坡角的增大,两种计算方法得出的安全系数的差异会逐渐增大;对于波浪作用下的海底缓倾角无限边坡,在失稳时极可能沿具有一定厚度的滑动带而不是单一的滑动面而滑动,且波致最大剪应力所在的深度,常常不是斜坡体最易失稳滑移的深度。     

波浪在陡坡上的传播变形

利用数值方法和物理模型分析以反射为主的陡坡上波浪传播变形特性。数值方法采用标记单元法,为处理倾斜反射边界对斜坡前波浪运动的影响,提出了“台阶镜像法”。通过1：1．5光滑斜坡上物理模型试验,分析了不完全立波的运动特性,说明强反射光滑陡坡坡前波浪运动呈明显的立波状态,它与直墙反射的主要差别是被前第一波节点和腹点位置向岸推移。本试验得到的波浪反射、爬高和回落特征值与港口工程规范给定结果接近。     

近底管线上的波浪力

本文利用物理模型试验,同步测试了近水底管线在波浪作用下的水平力和外力,并应用莫里逊公式、二阶斯托克斯波理论,按最小二乘原理统计了水平力系数C_D和C_M,分析了它们与KC数间的关系,提出了经验式。本文重点探讨了升力过程线的计算模式,采用傅氏级数法分析了实测升力过程线,提出了五阶升力系数及其相应的初相位值与KC数的经验关系式,从而,首次提出了计算升力和合力过程线的方法。文中还通过实例,比较了力过程线的实测值和计算值,讨论了最大合力值及其相位特征等。     

波浪作用下海底管线的物理模型实验研究

本文进行了海底管线受波浪力作用的两种不同比尺的物理模型实验，得出了水平力系数Ｃｆｘ和垂直力系数Ｃｆｚ随ＫＣ数和Ｒｅｄ数的变化曲线，并对比了不同比尺物理模型实验的结果。结果对比表明，比尺对波浪力的影响是不可忽略的。     

波浪在珊瑚礁及台阶式地形上的传播

波浪在水深剧变地形上传播与在缓变地形上传播相比，变形规律有很大不同。本文结合珊瑚礁地形，对波浪在台阶式水深剧变地形上的传播的研究进展了综述，指出了一些存在的问题及进一步研究的方法。     

基于改进缓坡方程的波浪传播数值模拟

用变分原理导出考虑底坡一阶导数平方项和二阶曲率项影响的缓坡方程,对传统缓坡方程作了改进,提高波浪在海底地形变化剧烈、水深较浅时数值模拟精度。数值计算与已有实验室试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟有剧烈变化的海底地形的波浪传播,比传统缓坡方程模型计算结果在精度上有明显提高。     

波浪对海底管线作用的物理模型实验及数值模拟研究

利用物理模型实验，测量了海底管线在波浪作用下的水平力和升力，并应用Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ方程及流函数理论，按最小二乘原理得出ＣＤ和ＣＭ以及ＣＬ，讨论了它们与ＫＣ，Ｒｅ之间隙比ｅ／Ｄ的关系。本文带应用边界拟合坐标及二维流场的大涡模拟法，模拟了与实验相同工况下海底管线的受力及流场情况，并把物理模型实验和数值模拟的结果进行了比较。     

A three-point method for estimating wave reflection of obliquely incident waves over a sloping bottom

A three-point method for estimating wave reflection is proposed to account for monochromatic oblique incident waves propagating over a sloping beach. The amplitudes of reflected wave and incident wave are separated using wave amplitudes measured at three fixed wave gauges with a distance. The applicability of the theory is verified by comparing the simulated results with the available theoretical, numerical and experimental results for the estimation of wave reflection. The sensitivity is also tested to provide a more accurate prediction of the reflection coefficient.     

A mathematical model of calculating local tsunami wave source constraints and propagation

This paper presents a local tsunami simulation, including the initial displacement field model of tsunami source and tsunami wave propagation model. We deduced the tsunami wave equation; applied the ma...     

Dynamics of long spatial nonlinear waves in an ocean with a density jump and a gently sloping bottom

This paper deals with the modeling of the propagation of three-dimensional gravitational perturbations of small but finite amplitudes in shallow two-layered water in basins with a gently sloping bottom. A single integral-differential evolution equation is derived that takes into account the long-wave contributions of the inertia of liquid layers and surface tension and the weak nonlinearity of the disturbances, as well as the nonstationary water shear srtess at the bottom. A numerical implementation of the model equation that allows us to adequately describe the processes considered is suggested. The transformations of spatial solitary perturbations in the pycnocline of basins with different bottom topographies are presented.     

A two-point method for estimating wave reflection over a sloping beach

This work presents a frequency-domain method for estimating incident and reflected waves when normally incident waves’ propagating over a sloping beach in a wave flume is considered. Linear wave shoaling is applied to determine changes of the wave amplitude and phase due to variations of the bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated using wave heights measured at two fixed wave gauges with a distance. The present model demonstrates a high capacity of estimating reflection and shoaling coefficients from synthetic wave-amplitude data. Sensitivity tests for the present model due to measurement errors of wave amplitudes and distance of two probes can more accurately predict the reflection coefficients. The measurement error of wave amplitude affects more significantly than measurement error of distance of two probes on calculating reflection coefficient of waves over a sloping bed.     

A new model for surface wave propagation over undulating topography

A new model is presented for the propagation of monochromatic surface waves over a region of arbitrary, one-dimensional bottom topography. The smoothly varying bed profile is divided into a series of shelves separated by abrupt steps. The wave fields on either side of each step are related by a “transfer matrix”, and the propagation of waves along the shelf between adjacent steps is described by a “rotation matrix”. Starting from a point where the surface wavefield is known, the step by step application of the appropriate combination of these matrices allows computation of the wavefield over the region of interest. If the individual steps are small then the transfer matrix reduces to a simpler plane-wave form, with considerable savings in computational effort. Comparisons are made with an exact potential solution for single and double steps in order to investigate the accuracy and validity of the matrix method. Finally, the model is applied to the case of wave reflection by fixed sinusoidal bottom undulations, and good agreement is found between its predictions and existing laboratory data.     

A simple mathematical model of a floating breakwater

A simple mathematical model, based on the solution of the two-dimensional problem of a vertical floating plate and on rigid body dynamics, is used to investigate the influence of different characteristics (such as mass, draft and anchoring) on the breakwater performance. The results include information about the transmission coefficient as well as about the plate displacement and anchoring forces, as functions of the plate and incident wave parameters.     

A spectral model for unidirectional nonlinear wave propagation over arbitrary depths

A weakly-nonlinear and dispersive wave equation recently developed by the authors is used for formulating a spectral-type unidirectional wave propagation model describing spectral transformations of narrow-band waves travelling over arbitrary depths. The essential characteristics of the model equation are recapitulated first and then the spectral domain representation in terms of spatially varying harmonic amplitudes is presented. The resulting evolution equations are used to simulate the experiments concerning harmonic generation in shallow water and nonlinear random wave transformations over a submerged bar. Furthermore, the spectral model predictions are compared with the field measurements in nearshore with satisfactory results.     

A three-dimensional wave field over a bidirectionally periodic ripple bottom

For gravity wave trains propagating over an arbitrary wavy bottom, a perturbation expansion is developed to the second order so that the Bragg resonance effect of the ripple bottom on the free-surface wave can be analyzed. Both the resonant and non-resonant cases are treated and the singular behavior at resonance is avoided. This theory is successfully verified by reducing to simpler situations. Then, the analytical results for the special case of a unidirectional sinusoidal bottom are compared with experimental data for validation.     

Wave propagation over a deformable sea floor

The propagation of water waves over a deformable bottom is examined theoretically for the case where the soil beneath the water is regarded as an elastic solid. Equations are given for calculating wave speeds, soil displacements and stresses, and water motion and pressure. Detailed wave-speed solutions are worked out for the case of an incompressible soil. The effects of soil inertia are included in the analysis, and it is shown that such effects cannot generally be ignored without committing serious error.     

Weak dependence of the SWAN wave model on hydrodynamic properties of sea bottom

The third generation of the SWAN wave model is modified by the incorporation of new resistance laws for hydrodynamically rough, incompletely rough (smoothly rough), and smooth underlying surfaces. A modified model is used to determine the functional dependences of wave parameters (such as the dimensionless energy of waves and the dimensionless spectral peak frequency) on a dimensionless fetch. The results of calculations are compared to the experimental data obtained in Lake George (northeastern Australia), which has a nearly constant depth and extended, nearly rectilinear segments of coast. The SWAN model is shown to depend weakly on hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom: distinctions arising from changes in hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom are smaller than the variances of experimental estimates.