Modeling of storm-induced coastal flooding for emergency management

This paper describes a model package that simulates coastal flooding resulting from storm surge and waves generated by tropical cyclones. The package consists of four component models implemented at three levels of nested geographic regions, namely, ocean, coastal, and nearshore. The operation is automated through a preprocessor that prepares the computational grids and input atmospheric conditions and manages the data transfer between components. The third generation spectral wave model WAM and a nonlinear long-wave model calculate respectively the wave conditions and storm surge over the ocean region. The simulation results define the water levels and boundary conditions for the model SWAN to transform the storm waves in coastal regions. The storm surge and local tides define the water level in each nearshore region, where a Boussinesq model uses the wave spectra output from SWAN to simulate the surf-zone processes and runup along the coastline. The package is applied to hindcast the coastal flooding caused by Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, which hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1982 and 1992, respectively. The model results indicate good agreement with the storm-water levels and overwash debris lines recorded during and after the events, demonstrating the capability of the model package as a forecast tool for emergency management.     

渤、黄海天文潮—风暴潮相互作用及其对极值水位的贡献

基于Delft3D模型建立了中国渤、黄海风暴潮数值模型,选取1979—2020年影响该海域的93场风暴过程（包括台风、寒潮和温带气旋）,模拟了所产生的风暴增水和风暴潮总水位。采用泊松—皮尔逊复合极值分布理论,推算了渤、黄海对应不同重现期的极值水位;通过数值试验,对天文潮—风暴潮非线性相互作用对极值水位的贡献进行了量化分析。研究结果表明,渤海的莱州湾、渤海湾,以及黄海的江华湾、西朝鲜湾风暴增水最大,其中江华湾北侧和渤海湾西南侧的百年一遇风暴增水可达4 m;天文潮—风暴潮非线性相互作用在潮差较大、水深较浅的河口、湾顶区域更为显著,与耦合模型结果相比,非线性作用使极值水位值偏小,天文潮、风暴潮增水的线性叠加可显著高估极值水位,高估的幅值可达0.5~0.8 m。考虑重现期极值水位是海岸灾害防护工程的关键设计参数之一,对海岸构筑物的安全和建造成本影响极大,应重视天文潮—风暴潮非线性相互作用对重现期水位的影响。     

浪潮耦合的舟山渔港台风暴潮数值模拟

建立能精确模拟舟山渔港台风暴潮过程的浪潮耦合模型,对渔港防灾减灾具有重要意义。基于Delft3D中的FLOW和WAVE模块,在二重嵌套网格下建立风暴潮和波浪的耦合模型。以9711号台风Winnie为背景,验证耦合模型的可靠性,结果显示,风速、天文潮潮位、风暴潮潮位和有效波高的计算值与实测值吻合良好。利用风暴潮模型与耦合模型分别计算了舟山海域的风暴潮,分析了波浪对风暴潮潮位的抬升影响,定海和镇海站最大波浪增水分别为23 cm和34 cm,耦合模型的模拟精度要高于风暴潮模型。通过模拟9711号台风期间舟山渔港的风暴潮过程,分析了风暴潮的时空分布特征,并给出了浪潮耦合作用对于风暴潮时空分布的影响。     

A synchronously coupled tide–wave–surge model of the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been established in this study in order to investigate the effect of tides, storm surges, and wind waves interactions during a winter monsoon on November 1983 in the Yellow Sea. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM-Cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress generated by interactions between wind and waves is calculated using the WAM-Cycle 4 directly based on an analytical approximation of the results obtained from the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes of bottom friction factor generated by waves and current interactions are calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. The model simulations showed that bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient induced by combination of wave and current were increased in shallow waters of up to 50 m in the Yellow Sea during the wintertime strong storm conditions.     

Modeling of coupled tide–wave–surge process in the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions.     

Down-scaled regional ocean modeling system (ROMS) for high-resolution coastal hydrodynamics in Korea

A down-scaled operational oceanographic system is developed for the coastal waters of Korea using a regional ocean modeling system(ROMS).The operational oceanographic modeling system consists of atmospheric and hydrodynamic models.The hydrodynamic model,ROMS,is coupled with wave,sediment transport,and water quality modules.The system forecasts the predicted results twice a day on a 72 h basis,including sea surface elevation,currents,temperature,salinity,storm surge height,and wave information for the coastal waters of Korea.The predicted results are exported to the web-GIS-based coastal information system for real-time dissemination to the public and validation with real-time monitoring data using visualization technologies.The ROMS is two-way coupled with a simulating waves nearshore model,SWAN,for the hydrodynamics and waves,nested with the meteorological model,WRF,for the atmospheric surface forcing,and externally nested with the eutrophication model,CE-QUAL-ICM,for the water quality.The operational model,ROMS,was calibrated with the tidal surface observed with a tide-gage and verified with current data observed by bottom-mounted ADCP or AWAC near the coastal waters of Korea.To validate the predicted results,we used real-time monitoring data derived from remote buoy system,HF-radar,and geostationary ocean color imager(GOCI).This down-scaled operational coastal forecasting system will be used as a part of the Korea operational oceanographic system(KOOS) with other operational oceanographic systems.     

Experimental Study of Overtopping on Sea Dikes and Coastal Flooding Under the Coupled Processes of Tides and Waves

Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.

     

基于非结构网格的波流耦合数值模式研究

本文采用ADCIRC模型和SWAN模型, 建立了一个基于非结构化网格的波流耦合数值模式, 风浪计算和潮汐风暴潮计算均采用同一套三角网格, 对复杂岸线和建筑物布置均有较好的描述, 且避免了模型插值, 提高了计算效率和精度。利用该模型对渤海湾西南海域几次强风过程中的风浪和潮汐风暴潮进行了研究, 通过实测资料对该模型进行了验证, 结果表明该模式具有较高的精度, 能较好地描述风浪、潮汐风暴潮的传播演变及其相互作用, 可应用于风浪与潮汐风暴潮的模拟计算。     

The synchronous coupling of a third-generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model

The interaction of waves and currents is studied by the dynamical coupling of a third generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model. The coupling process of the two models is implemented synchronously. To estimate the effects of waves on the generation of storm surges, the theory of Janssen is used. The effects of the wave radiation stress on surge levels and the effects of storm-induced currents on waves are also investigated.The coupled wave and storm surge models have been tested by hindcasting two storm events in the northern South China Sea. The use of the Simth and Banke stress relation underestimates the surges by 10%. The inclusion of the radiation stress improves the accuracy of the computed results slightly by 2%. The introduction of a wave-dependent surface drag gives a significant improvement. The storm-induced currents clearly affect the wave characteristics at the peak stage. However, as far as the prediction of wave height is concerned, it is better not to consider the wave radiation stress in the storm surge model unless this is accompanied by a wave-dependent surface drag.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bar morphology on a macrotidal beach under low-energy wave conditions, North Lincolnshire, England

The morphological changes of multiple intertidal bars (ridges) on a macrotidal beach were examined under low-energy wave conditions during a spring-to-spring tidal cycle. The morphological response was coupled to the tidal water level variations and related residence times for swash processes and surf (breaking waves and bores) over the cross-shore profile. Spring tides induced a large spatial variation in water lines and small residence times for distinct processes. Neap tides narrowed the intertidal area and increased the time for certain processes to work on the sediment at one location. The observed morphological changes could be coupled to the stagnation of processes at a certain bar crest position. The action of surf (breaking waves and bores) played the major role in the onshore migration of the intertidal bars and the simultaneous erosion of the seaward flank. Swash action, responsible for the generation and migration of intertidal bars in microtidal settings, was not the dominant process in causing the observed morphological changes. Intertidal ridges on macrotidal beaches cannot be considered swash bars as suggested by most previous investigations into these morphological features.     

Wave-tide-surge coupled simulation for typhoon Maemi

The main task of this study focuses on studying the effect of wave-current interaction on currents, storm surge and wind wave as well as effects of current induced wave refraction and current on waves by using numerical models which consider the bottom boundary layer and sea surface roughness parameter for shallow and smooth bed area around Korean Peninsula. The coupled system (unstructured-mesh SWAN wave and ADCIRC) run on the same unstructured mesh. This identical and homogeneous mesh allows the physics of wave-circulation interactions to be correctly resolved in both models. The unstructured mesh can be applied to a large domain allowing all energy from deep to shallow waters to be seamlessly followed. There is no nesting or overlapping of structured wave meshes, and no interpolation is required. In response to typhoon Maemi (2003), all model components were validated independently, and shown to provide a faithful representation of the system’s response to this storm. The waves and storm surge were allowed to develop on the continental shelf and interact with the complex nearshore environment. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for prediction of the typhoon surge. The result show that it is important to incorporate the wave-current interaction effect into coastal area in the wave-tide-surge coupled model. At the same time, it should consider effects of depth-induced wave breaking, wind field, currents and sea surface elevation in prediction of waves. Specially, we found that: (1) wave radiation stress enhanced the current and surge elevation otherwise wave enhanced nonlinear bottom boundary layer decreased that, (2) wind wave was significantly controlled by sea surface roughness thus we cautiously took the experimental expression. The resulting modeling system can be used for hindcasting (prediction) the wave-tide-surge coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula.     

Underwater video reveals decreased activity of rocky intertidal snails during high tides and cooler days

Nearly all of our understanding of rocky inter‐tidal ecology comes from studies conducted at low tide. To study inter‐tidal organisms at high tide, we anchored waterproof digital GoPro^® video cameras in wave‐exposed tidepools and recorded the daytime movements of the black turban snail, Tegula funebralis, over the tidal cycle between May and August 2012 near Bodega Bay, California. Overall, snails moved more quickly and presumably foraged more during low tides and on days with warmer air and perhaps water temperatures. This is similar to other ectotherms that exhibit increased metabolic rates, movement and foraging in warmer conditions. Snails also moved less during flood and high tides, may have moved downward in tidepools at flood tides, and showed evidence of reduced activity on days with larger waves. This inactivity and refuge seeking may have been a strategy to avoid dislodgment by waves. Analysis of snail trajectories showed foraging bouts indicated by alternating zig‐zagging and straight movement. There was no effect of temperature, wave height, or tidal phase on distribution of snail turning angles, suggesting that they may have foraged consistently but moved faster during warm conditions and low tides, thereby grazing a larger area. This is one of few direct recordings of inter‐tidal organisms on wave‐exposed rocky shores during high tide. The methods used here are easily transferable to other studies, which are needed to increase our understanding of behaviors that structure rocky shore communities during high tide.     

Biogeochemical patterns in the Atlantic Inflow through the Strait of Gibraltar

The effects of tidal forcing on the biogeochemical patterns of surface water masses flowing through the Strait of Gibraltar are studied by monitoring the Atlantic Inflow (AI) during both spring and neap tides. Three main phenomena are defined depending on the strength of the outflowing phase predicted over the Camarinal Sill: non-wave events (a very frequent phenomenon during the whole year); type I Internal wave events (a very energetic event, occurring during spring tides); and type II Internal wave events (less intense, occurring during neap tides).During neap tides, a non-wave event comprising oligotrophic open-ocean water from the Gulf of Cádiz is the most frequent and clearly dominant flow through the Strait. In this tidal condition, the inflow of North Atlantic Central Water (NACW) provides the main nutrient input to the surface layer of the Alboran Sea, supplying almost 70% of total annual nitrate transport to the Mediterranean basin. A low percentage of active and large phytoplankton cells and low average concentrations of chlorophyll (0.3–0.4 mg m⁻³) are found in this tidal phase. Around 50% of total annual phytoplankton biomass transport into the Mediterranean Sea through the Strait presents these oligotrophic characteristics.In contrast, during spring tides, patches of water with high chlorophyll levels (0.7–1 mg m⁻³) arrive intermittently, and these are recorded concurrently with the passage of internal waves coming from the Camarinal Sill (type I internal wave events). When large internal waves are arrested over the Camarinal Sill this implies strong interfacial mixing and the probable concurrent injection of coastal waters into the main channel of the Strait. These processes result in a mixed water column in the AI and can account for around 30% of total annual nitrate transport into the Mediterranean basin. Associated with type I internal wave events there is a regular inflow of large and active phytoplankton cells, transported in waters with relatively high nutrient concentrations, which constitutes a significant supply of planktonic resources to the pelagic ecosystem of the Alboran Sea (almost 30% of total annual phytoplankton biomass transport).     

Tide and surge dynamics along the Iberian Atlantic coast

The eastern Atlantic barotropic dynamics (in a region spanning from 20° N to 48° N and 34° W to 0°) are studied through numerical modelling and in situ measurements. The main source of data is the tidal gauge network REDMAR, managed by Clima Marítimo (Puertos del Estado). The numerical model employed is the HAMSOM, developed both by the Institut für Meereskunde (Hamburg University) and Clima Marítimo.In this paper, tidal and storm surge dynamics are studied for the region, focusing particularly on the nonlinear transfer of energy between the different forcings.The results of tidal simulations show good agreement between semidiurnal harmonic components and the values obtained from the tidal gauges (both coastal and pelagic) and current metres. The nonlinear transfers of energy from semidiurnal to higher order harmonics, such as M4 and M6, were mapped. Those transfers were found to be important in only two areas: The French continental shelf in the Bay of Biscay and the widest part of the African shelf, south of Cabo Bojador. The modelled diurnal constituents show larger relative differences with measurements than semidiurnal harmonics, especially in data concerning the phase.A method to isolate the nonlinear transfers of energy between tidal and atmospheric forcing during a storm surge was developed. These transfers were found to be significant in the same areas where tidal nonlinear activity was present. The effect of short period wind generated waves on sea surface elevation was also investigated. The magnitude of the spatial derivatives of radiation stress was compared with wind-induced stress. As a result of this comparison, we found the inclusion of a forcing term that depends on radiation stress in ocean model simulations at this scale and resolution to be not essential. The effect of computing wind-induced stresses, with a formulation that explicitly depends on sea state, was also explored by means of a coupled run of the HAMSOM and the spectral wave model WAM for a storm surge event in the Spanish coast. This formulation was not found to be an improvement over a classical parameterisation which only depends on wind fields.     

Transition of Tidal Waves from the East to South China Seas over the Taiwan Strait: Influence of the Abrupt Step in the Topography

Observations of tidal waves between the East and South China Seas (ECS and SCS) over the Taiwan Strait (TS) suggest that the diurnal tides simply appear as one southward-propagating wave from the ECS to the SCS through the TS. The semidiurnal tides, however, behave differently in that they appear as a southward-propagating Kelvin wave in the western TS and a nearly standing wave in the eastern TS, and then diminish rapidly over the shallow shoal in the southern TS. A smaller-domain model, with sea-level boundary conditions derived from a larger-domain tidal model, was first used to simulate tides in the TS to an overall percentage of accuracy of about 90%. Subsequent numerical experiments and theoretical analysis revealed that the southward-propagating semidiurnal tides to be impeded and then reflected as they arrive at an abrupt, deepened step in the topography of the southern TS. This reflection enhances the amplitudes of the incident semidiurnal tides and contributes to the formation of a nearly standing wave in the eastern TS. The southward-propagating diurnal tides in the TS are connected by the diurnal tides in the northern SCS when the amplitudes of the two tide systems are comparable and their phases nearly equal at the step. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

The effect of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation in Charleston Harbor during Hurricane Hugo 1989

The effects of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal regions are examined by using a three-dimensional (3-D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3-D storm surge and inundation modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton ocean model (POM), whereas the wave modeling component is based on the third-generation wave model, simulating waves nearshore (SWAN). The results indicate that the effects of wave-induced surface, bottom, and radiation stresses can separately or in combination produce significant changes in storm surge and inundation. The effects of waves vary spatially. In some areas, the contribution of waves to peak storm surge during Hurricane Hugo reached as high as 0.76 m which led to substantial changes in the inundation and drying areas simulated by the storm surge model.     

Modeling hurricane waves and storm surge using integrally-coupled,scalable computations

The unstructured-mesh SWAN spectral wave model and the ADCIRC shallow-water circulation model have been integrated into a tightly-coupled SWAN + ADCIRC model. The model components are applied to an identical, unstructured mesh; share parallel computing infrastructure; and run sequentially in time. Wind speeds, water levels, currents and radiation stress gradients are vertex-based, and therefore can be passed through memory or cache to each model component. Parallel simulations based on domain decomposition utilize identical sub-meshes, and the communication is highly localized. Inter-model communication is intra-core, while intra-model communication is inter-core but is local and efficient because it is solely on adjacent sub-mesh edges. The resulting integrated SWAN + ADCIRC system is highly scalable and allows for localized increases in resolution without the complexity or cost of nested meshes or global interpolation between heterogeneous meshes. Hurricane waves and storm surge are validated for Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, demonstrating the importance of inclusion of the wave-circulation interactions, and efficient performance is demonstrated to 3062 computational cores.     

铁山湾内天文潮对风暴潮水位的影响研究

作为半封闭狭长海湾,铁山湾受风暴潮灾害的影响较为严重。根据多年观测资料和数值模型对铁山湾内的风暴潮水位特征进行了研究。观测资料表明海湾内风暴潮峰值水位受天文潮相位影响较为显著,然后基于ADCIRC风暴潮模型和1409号“威马逊”台风参数,定量评估了天文潮对风暴潮水位的影响。模拟结果表明当考虑天文潮作用时,会显著提高模拟结果精度,然后通过数值实验研究了风暴潮与不同相位天文潮相互作用时的水位变化特征。数值实验结果表明天文潮-风暴潮相互作用引起的非线性水位在涨潮阶段不明显,在高潮位时非线性水位达到负值最大;在落潮时达到正值最大。风暴潮增水峰值由于受到这种非线性效应的影响,在高潮位时数值最小。海湾内非线性作用要远大于外部,非线性效应越强,总水位峰值相对于天文潮高潮位的延迟时间也就越长。     

渤海的潮波系统及其变迁

采用二维非线性潮波微分方程对渤海M_2、S_2、K_1、O_1四个分潮进行数值模拟,得出四个分潮的潮波图,椭圆长短轴图,同潮流时图以及潮汐、潮流性质图和S_2与M_2、K_1与O_1的迟角差图。依此可以系统地了解渤海潮波系统的分布变化规律。依据30～40年代测得的渤海海图以及假设数十年后渤海的岸形对渤海进行数值模拟,从而了解过去和现在渤海潮波的变化情况,以及对未来潮波的变化作出判断。计算表明,从30年代到70年代以来,渤海南部的半日分潮波发生了很大的变化,而日分潮的潮波变化较小。     

The influence of tides,wind and waves on the redistribution of nourished sediment at Terschelling,The Netherlands

A calibrated morphodynamic model of the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands [Grunnet, N.M., Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., 2004. Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Eng. 51/7, 581–607], comprising the island and its two adjacent tidal inlet systems, is applied to identify the relative contribution of tides, wind and waves to the cross-shore and alongshore redistribution of a 2 Mm³ nourishment supplied to the nearshore zone along the island. Several model simulations with varying combinations of horizontal and vertical tide, wind and wave forcing were designed to investigate the effect of each individual forcing on a large spatio-temporal scale (order of kilometres and months, respectively). As expected, stirring and transport by waves and wave-induced currents are predicted to be by far the dominant contributor to the net sediment transport along the coast of Terschelling. Because of the strong obliquity of the winds and the relatively small tidal currents in front of the island (≈ 0.5 m/s), alongshore wind-driven currents increase sediment transport rates and horizontal tides virtually have no net transport capacity. This motivated a local model of the study area along the closed coast of Terschelling, not including tidal inlets and further simplifying tidal boundary definitions by omitting the horizontal tides: morphodynamic simulations of the local model show virtually identical results as the larger model predictions. The reduction in complexity in setting up a local model instead of a regional model coupled with the corresponding significant reduction in computational time points to an increasing applicability of complex process-based models.