Gravity-wave-induced pressure fluctuations in the deep ocean

We establish a mathematically consistent theory of the pseudo-sound pressure fluctuation in the deep ocean induced by nonlinearly interacting random plane waves on the surface. In the process, a new set of the second-order perturbation equations is derived and power-correlation coefficients between random plane waves are introduced. A phenomenological model is adopted for wind pressure which excites the surface waves consisting of wind-driven sea and swell. By solving the first-order- and the second-order-perturbation equations with this wind pressure as the excitation, we obtain an expression for the pressure fluctuation and its power spectral density in the gravity-wave regime. It is concluded that only the swell part of the surface waves generates the pressure fluctuation and the spectral density is modified by the power correlation coefficient.     

Measurement of the parameters of internal and swell waves by a side-looking radar

A procedure for computing the parameters of internal and swell waves based on the radiopanorama of the sea surface obtained from on board a ship in the side-looking regime using the dispersion equation is suggested. Compared with the procedure of ref. 1, it simplifies the methods of measurements. Specific examples of computing the swell and internal wave parameters using radiopanoramas of the sea surface are considered which support the efficiency of the procedure suggested.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

太平洋涌浪分布特征及其对海-气边界层的影响

本文对海-气边界层波致风机制的相关理论进行了阐述,并利用ERA-40再分析资料给出了太平洋谱峰速度、波龄、波陡等描述涌浪和波致风机制物理量的年际和季节空间分布特征。分析表明:东太平洋赤道地区等海域涌浪速度最大且涌浪由南向北传播明显;太平洋波边界层高度基本呈现出东高西低的分布形势;波致风机制主要发生在赤道热带海域,北半球夏季波致风机制偏强,冬季偏弱,南半球反之;北半球北部海域夏季更易发生波致风机制,赤道附近海域相反;南海为风浪与涌浪组成的混合浪,对其波候等相关研究有必要分开进行讨论。     

Influence of the type of sea waves on the backscattered radar cross section at medium incidence angles

We consider the influence of the sea surface state on the backscattered radar cross section and the accuracy of the wind speed retrieval from the scatterometer data. We used a joint set of radars and buoys to determine the type of sea waves. Three types of sea waves were distinguished: developing wind waves, fully developed wind waves, and mixed sea. It is shown that the retrieval error of the near surface wind speed using a one-parameter algorithm is minimal in the case of fully developed wind waves. We compared these data with the results of radio-altimeter data analysis and showed that in both cases underestimation of the retrieval wind speed exists for developing wind waves and overestimation occurs for mixed sea. A variety of swell parameters (length of the dominating wave, swell height, swell age) significantly influence the backscattered radar cross section, leading to a growth in the mean square error of the retrieved wind speed during vertical sounding (radio-altimeter data), and only slightly influence the mean square error of the scatterometer data (medium incidence angles). It is necessary to include the information about the parameters of sea waves in the algorithms and take into account the regional wave properties to increase the accuracy of wind speed retrieval.     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

赤道海洋波致Lagrange余流的弱非线性动力学模型及其解

基于一个连续层化赤道海洋波动的弱非线性动力学系统,推导并建立了由最低阶Ｌａｇｒａｎｇｅ余流体现的包含波致、风生等效应在内的热带海洋余环流基本方程组,经分析发现,零阶赤道以动自身的非线性耦合可产生一阶余流,其量级对于热带上层海洋准定常环流而言是不可忽略的。波致环流的产生紧缩联系于Ｌａｇｒａｎｇｅ轨迹运动与波流的非线性耦合效应,所导出的最低阶赤道波致Ｌａｇｒａｎｇｅ余 一般解具有与零阶波动不同的垂直与     

Buoy observations of the influence of swell on wind waves in the open ocean

The influence of longer (swell) on shorter, wind sea waves is examined using an extensive database of directional buoy measurements obtained from a heave-pitch-roll buoy moored in deep water in the South Atlantic. This data set is unique for such an investigation due to the ubiquitous presence of a young swell component propagating closely in direction and frequency with the wind sea, as well as a longer, opposing swell. Our results show, within the statistical limits of the regressions obtained from our analysis when compared to measurements in swell free environments, that there is no obvious influence of swell on wind sea growth. For operational purposes in ocean engineering this means that power-laws from fetch limited situations describing the wind sea growth can be applied in more realistic situations in the open sea when swell is present.     

Internal flow structure of short wind waves

For wind waves generated in a wind-wave tunnel, the surface pressure and also the pressure distribution along the internal streamlines were calculated from the measured internal velocity field. In distinct waves, with wave height comparable with or larger than the mean, the surface pressure is found to vary drastically in a narrow region around the crest, showing a dominant minimum near the crest. On the other hand, the pressure distribution along the streamline shows systematic variations that are nearly in phase with the streamline profile. It is shown that the occurrence of the pressure in phase with the streamline profile is linked with the internal vorticity distribution, especially with the presence of a high vorticity region below the crest described in Part I of this study. As a result of the occurrence of such pressure variations, the dispersion relation is modified by about 10% from that for linear irrotational waves. It is argued from the present measurements that the dispersion relation and also the energy transfer from wind into wind waves are strongly affected by the internal vortical structure so that the assumption of irrotational gravity waves cannot be applied to the wind waves being studied.     

The long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and the wave height (wind wave, swell, mixed wave)in global ocean during the last 44 a

Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)reanalysis wave data(ERA-40),the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and(wind wave,swell,mixed wave)wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5×1.5 during the last 44 a is analyzed.It is discovered that a majority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend(2–8 cm/decade),the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height(SWH)has good consistency with that of the swell wave height.The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly concentrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies,high latitude of the North Pacific,Indian Ocean north of 30 S,the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters,and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific,Juan.Fernandez Archipelago,the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters.The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed.Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave,the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore,and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore,and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.     

Taylor-Görtler vortices expected in the air flow on sea surface waves—I

Taylor-Grörtler vortices are longitudinal vortices resulting from a centrifugal instability. They are generated in the flow having a curved streamline with an increasing velocity in the direction of decreasing curvature.It is shown that the air flow above wind waves and swells also satisfies locally the condition of the centrifugal instability. Numerical calculations indicate the possibility of generation of Taylor-Görtler vortices on the trough of sea waves. For example, when a wind of about 12.2 m/s at 10-m level is blowing over sea waves of the wave length of 15 m like the swell, the critical water wave height beyond which the vortices may be generated is about 0.5 m, and the critical wave length and the height of center of the generated vortices are about 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively. Further, about the relations between the generation of vortices and wind waves, it is shown that the condition of their generation is satisfied at the trough of waves for early stages of the wave generation.In conclusion, it is expected that the Taylor-Görtler vortices change the wind profile along the sea surface, and also, play some part in the growth of wind waves, especially in the formation of their three dimensional structure.     

Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method

A method for generating waves in Boussinesq-type wave models is described. The method employs a source term added to the governing equations, either in the form of a mass source in the continuity equation or an applied pressure forcing in the momentum equations. Assuming linearity, we derive a transfer function which relates source amplitude to surface wave characteristics. We then test the model for generation of desired incident waves, including regular and random waves, for both one and two dimensions. We also compare some model results with analytical solution and available experiment data.     

Modulational instability of two crossing waves in the presence of wind flow

In this study, we investigate modulational instability in the presence of wind flow in a situation where sea states crossed over water with a finite depth. It is assumed that the wind flows in a specific direction to produce angles with two directions of propagation by two wave systems with the same carrier wave number and same frequency. The evolution equations considered in this study represent a balance among the effects of wind forcing, dispersion, and nonlinearity at the lowest order. These evolution equations are used to study the stability of the uniform wave solution in crossing seas. We show that in the presence of wind flow, the uniform waves grow super-exponentially. We also demonstrate that the region of asymptotic instability in the perturbed wave number plane is larger than that in the absence of wind flow.     

Impact of swell on simulations using a regional atmospheric climate model

When long, fast swell waves travel in approximately the same direction as the wind, the surface stress is reduced compared with under wind-sea conditions. Using measurements from the Östergarnsholm site in the Baltic Sea, new expressions of the roughness length were developed for wind sea and swell. These new expressions were implemented in the RCA3 regional climate model covering Europe. A 3-year simulation and two case studies using the wavefield from the ECMWF reanalysis (ERA-40) were analysed using the improved formulations. Wind-following swell led to a significant reduction of mean wind stress and heat fluxes. The mean surface layer wind speed was redistributed horizontally and the marine boundary layer cooled and dried slightly. This cooling was most pronounced over North Sea and the Norwegian Sea (almost 0.2 °C annually on average) whereas the drying was most pronounced over the Mediterranean Sea (almost 0.4 g kg⁻¹). Somewhat less convective precipitation and low-level cloudiness over the sea areas were also indicated, in particular over the Mediterranean Sea. The impact on the atmosphere, however, is significantly locally greater in time and space.     

浙江中部三门湾波浪特征统计分析

为了研究浙江中部三门湾海域的波浪特征,本文基于AWAC波浪观测仪在该海域进行了连续1年的观测,对观测得到的波浪参数进行了统计分析、线性回归分析,同时研究分析了三门湾海域受台风影响时,波浪参数和波浪谱的变化情况,探讨了波浪变化的原因.研究表明,三门湾海域常浪向和强浪向均为E向,地形是主导因素;显著波高绝大部分在0.8 m...     

Modeling drift currents in a shallow basin with allowance for variations in tangential stresses induced by wind waves

A coupling model for calculating wind-driven currents and waves in a shallow basin with allowance for current-wave interactions is introduced. The model is constructed on the basis of the three-dimensional σ-coordinate model of currents [3] and the SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) spectral wave model [4]. The effect of waves on currents is taken into account in the coefficients of surface and bottom friction through roughness parameters. Results of combined modeling of stationary fields of currents and waves generated by spatially homogeneous wind are correlated with the corresponding results of separate modeling for a cylindrical basin of constant depth and the water area of Lake Donuzlav (the northwestern coast of the Crimea). The allowance for the effect of waves during calculation of tangential wind stresses in the model of currents is shown to be among major factors intensifying water circulation and forming spatial inhomogeneities of the vortex type. In addition, some cases of local decreases in tangential wind stresses are revealed; they appear when the lake is penetrated from the side of the open sea by relatively long waves, which significantly decrease the roughness of the water surface.     

The Behaviour of LNG Carrier Moored to a Jetty Exposed to Waves,Swell,Unsteady Wind and Current

—Most terminals for tankers are piers and sea islands,while other types include single pointmoorings and multiple-buoy moorings.The LNG and LPG carrier moored to the jetty is a very commonterminal for transfer of gas in open seas.It is important to estimate the motions and line tensions of theLNG carrier when it moors to a jetty in metocean environment.Normally,the motions of the LNG carrierwould be restricted by the loading arm,which is connected to LNG carrier＇s manifold.An example of125,000m~3 LNG carrier moored to a jetty exposed to a set of environment conditions is given.Amathematical model which is based on the equations of motion in the time domain is used to the analysisof LNG moored to an offshore jetty exposed to waves,swell,wind and current.By means of a time do-main computer program TERMSIM computations are carried out to determine and optimize the lay-outand/or orientation of the jetty and mooring gear in terms of forces in mooring lines and fenders and theenvelope of motions of the loadi     

2016年苏北近海风场和波浪场多时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用高分辨率的大气和波浪数值模式,模拟了2016年苏北近海的风场和波浪场,并与卫星高度计资料、散射计风场、再分析资料以及实测浮标资料进行了比较,验证了模式的准确性。基于这套模式结果,系统地分析了江苏近海的风场和波浪场的多时间尺度变化:季节变化、日变化以及季节内变化(台风、寒潮)。分析结果表明:苏北近海海域的风速、有效波高和涌浪在冬季和秋季较大、春季和夏季较小;冬季盛行西北风,常浪向为西北向,夏季盛行东南风,常浪向为东南向。风场和波浪场还具有显著的日变化特征,且日变化存在季节变化规律,离岸越近海域日变化特征越明显。同时,江苏近海还会经历季节内尺度的强天气过程的影响,比如台风和寒潮。     

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied.     

Atmospheric frontal gravity waves observed in satellite SAR images of the Bohai Sea and Huanghai Sea

In the satellite synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images of the Bohai Sea and Huanghai Sea, the authors observe sea surface imprints of wave-like patterns with an average wavelength of 3.8 km. Comparing SAR observations with sea surface wind fields and surface weather maps, the authors find that the occurrence of the wave-like phenomena is associated with the passing of atmospheric front. The authors define the waves as atmospheric frontal gravity waves. The dynamical parameters of the wave packets are derived from statistics of 9 satellite SAR images obtained from 2002 to 2008. A two-dimensional linear physical wave model is used to analyze the generation mechanism of the waves. The atmospheric frontal wave induced wind variation across the frontal wave packet is compared with wind retrievals from the SAR images. The CMOD-5 (C-band scatterometer ocean geophysical model function) is used for SAR wind retrievals VV (transmitted vertical and received vertical) for ENVISAT and HH (transmitted horizontally and received horizontally) for RADARSAT-1. A reasonable agreement between the analytical solution and the SAR observation is reached. This new SAR frontal wave observation adds to the school of SAR observations of sea surface imprints of AGWs including island lee waves, coastal lee waves, and upstream Atmospheric Gravity Waves (AGW).     

Modulation of short wind waves by a long surface wave: a mechanism for feedback with an air flow

The paper concentrates on the evolution of a spectrum of short wind waves (SW) along the profile of a long surface wave (LW). Short wave spectral variations are considered in the relaxation approximation. The SW spectrum is modulated by the orbital velocities of long waves and by the variations of wind stress along the LW profile. The latter effect occurs due to wind flux perturbations induced by both the long wave proper and variations of the sea surface roughness induced by the SW modulations. To describe this effect, a feedback mechanism is introduces—the growth of energy of short waves results in the larger roughness of the sea surface, thereby contributing to the local wind stress, which facilitates, in turn, the growth of short waves. With moderate and strong winds being involved, this effect (aerodynamic feedback) is shown to be dominant in the short wave spectrum modulation. The mechanism becomes more efficient with intensification of the wind and decreasing of the long waves' frequency. Results of model calculations are in agreement with the known experimental data. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.