Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

Modeling wave�Ccurrent bottom boundary layers beneath shoaling and breaking waves

The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.     

A pair of Langmuir cells in a laboratory tank (I) wind-only experiment

Three velocity components of subsurface flow, observed in a rectangular tank under the action of a constant wind speed, are measured systematically at mesh points distributed uniformly over a vertical cross-section of the tank. Measurements are carried out for two cases: 1) reference wind speedU _r =7.5 m/s and fetchF=10 m; and 2)U _r =10 m/s andF=25 m. A pair of Langmuir cells is observed for both cases; downwelling zones are found along both of the sidewalls and an upwelling zone in the centre of the tank. Near the water surface, the vertical momentum flux is dominated by the Reynolds stress resulting from small-scale turbulence, while over the entire cross-section except near the surface, the Reynolds stress due to the Langmuir cells dominates the vertical momentum flux. As the result of the occurrence of this Langmuir cells, the vertical momentum flux, which consists of both mean advection and small-scale turbulence, is markedly inhomogeneous in the spanwise direction; for example, the largest vertical flux of the order of the wind stress is observed in the downwelling zone near one sidewall, while at the centre of the tank, the vertical momentum flux occupies only 30% of the wind stress. This indicates that a pair of Langmuir cells plays more important role than small-scale turbulence in the mixing process in a greater part of the wind-wave tank.Address after April 1, 1992: Department of Civil Engineering, Hiroshima Institute of Technology, Miyake 2-1-1, Saeki-ku, Hiroshima 731-51, Japan.     

非线性流函数在实验风浪场计算中的应用

风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。     

Study of the Neutral Ekman Flow Using an Algebraic Reynolds Stress Model

A recently developed fully explicit algebraic model of Reynolds stress and turbulent heat flux in a thermally stratified planetary atmospheric boundary layer without stratification has been used for a numerical study of the Ekman turbulent boundary layer over a homogeneous rough surface for different dimensionless surface Rossby numbers. A comparative analysis has been conducted for a closure model of the transport term in the prognostic equation of turbulent kinetic energy dissipation including third-order moments. Dependences of the total wind rotation angle on the Rossby number have been obtained. The calculated vertical profiles of mean velocity, turbulent stress, turbulent kinetic energy, surface-friction velocity, and boundary-layer height agree satisfactorily with observational and earlier obtained LES data.     

Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor

INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents …     

风浪和海洋飞沫对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响

基于埃克曼理论,本文将波致应力和飞沫应力引入到海-气边界层的界面应力中,来研究海表面风浪和海洋飞沫对海-气边界层动量交换的影响,并得到修改后的埃克曼模型的理论解。波致应力是由风浪谱和波增长函数估计,并得到在中低风速下,波致应力、飞沫应力与湍流应力相比,对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响非常小。当风速高于25米/秒时,海洋飞沫通过飞沫应力对海-气界面应力的作用远高于波致应力,以至于波致应力可以忽略。海表面拖曳系数在高风速下,随着风速的增大而减小。通过采用风浪谱的不同波龄,得到海洋飞沫的产生会导致海-气边界层风速的增加。最后,理论解与现场的观察数据进行了对比。对比后的数据表明,在中高风速下,飞沫对海-气边界层的影响远大于表面风浪。     

On vertical velocity fluctuations and internal tides in an upwelling region off the west coast of India

Hourly fluctuations of vertical velocity in relation to components of flow and wind and temperature oscillations at a morring site in the shelf waters off the west coast of India are discussed. The vertical velocities were computed from a time series of vertical temperature profiles assuming that horizontal advection of temperature is negligible. The computed values at a depth of 40 m during the 72-h period of observation were of the order of 10⁻¹ to 10⁻²cm s⁻¹, with a mean value of −2·77 × 10⁻² cm s⁻¹ indicating a net upward movement of water. The computed vertical velocity showed fluctuations of about 2–3 h, in addition to weaker signals of about 12 h. Based on the spectral estimates, we speculate that these fluctuations of 2–3 h in the vertical velocity may be caused by the fluctuations in the along-shore wind. The oscillations of isotherms found in the temperaturedepth time series and the spectral estimates of temperature and cross-shore flow component showed a periodicity of about 12 h, which indicated the presence of semi-diurnal internal waves. The fact that these internal wave troughs were associated with the measured onshore flow suggested that the waves were propagating offshore. The computed stability parameters showed little evidence of instability or mixing. It was found that the isotherm troughs in the temperaturedepth time series at about 12-h period coincided with high vertical shear in the cross-shore direction and low values of Brunt Vaisälä frequency.     

The effect of wave-induced stress on current profiles

Current velocity profiles in the presence of non-breaking waves on a horizontal bottom are studied. Particular consideration is given to the derivations of measured current profiles from the standard logarithmic profiles near the mean water surface. The deviations are found to be due mainly to the wave-induced second-order stress which was generally neglected in the former models. The available experimental data indicate that the wave-induced second-order stress is a linear function of elevation and depends on the wave parameters, the current strength and the angle between the waves and the current. A semi-empirical model is developed and gives good agreements with experimental measurements of current profiles near the mean water surface.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers

The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.     

基于CESM1.2.2模拟的浪致混合对末次冰盛期和工业革命前气候的影响

海洋上层垂向混合在模式中发挥重要的作用,以往的研究表明垂向混合的不足使得模拟的海洋温度和混合层深度与观测存在显著偏差。前人提出一种修正方案,考虑波浪产生的垂向混合,将由表面风作用下产生的波浪这样一个实际物理过程的湍混合进行参数化,其结果被证实能够显著提高模式模拟和预报的准确性。本文首次将浪致混合引入海气耦合的古气候模式,基于末次冰盛期和工业革命前2种不同的气候条件,探究浪致混合在海气耦合模式中的作用。在不同气候背景下,由于风场强度的不同,导致末次冰盛期浪致混合的强度小于工业革命前,但2个气候时期都体现出中纬度混合强度最大的特点。将浪致混合加入到气候模式中,模拟结果表明：中纬度海域2个时期都出现海表面降温而次表层升温的现象,但末次冰盛期的表面降温强度弱于工业革命前状态;不同月份下的模拟结果显示,在南北半球的夏季,海洋表层温度的降温最为显著。中纬度海域海洋上混合层深度在年平均条件下2个气候背景时期都出现加深现象,但末次冰盛期的加深程度弱于工业革命前;不同月份下的模拟结果显示,在南北半球的冬季,混合层加深的变化达到极值。另一方面,在高纬度海域,末次冰盛期的海表面温度出现了显著升高,这是由于浪...     

Observation of oceanic structure around Tosa-Bae southeast of Shikoku

The hydrographic observations in the vicinity of a seamount, the Tosa-Bae, southeast of Shikoku have been carried out two times in summer of 1991 and 1992. The temperature, salinity fields are observed by CTD and velocity fields are measured by ADCP. Results of these observation are presented in this paper. It is shown that salinity maximum water at a depth of 100 m is confined to a southeastern are of the Tosa-Bae, however, salinity minimum water is found in northern side of the Tosa-Bae. This indicates the westward intrusion of less saline water over northern slope. A positive correlation is detected between the estimated Rossby height (fL/N) and the observed height of Taylor Column estimated from the vertical change in the isotherms and isohalines. Almost both heights give smaller value than representative depth of bottom topography of the Tosa-Bae, it is indicated that the topographic effect of the Tosa-Bae is not fully reached to the surface. From the correlations between the vertical difference of geostrophic flow and that of ADCP velocity, ageostrophic flow component is detected.     

Infrasound scattering from atmospheric anisotropic inhomogeneities

A model of anisotropic fluctuations forming in wind velocity and air temperature in a stably stratified atmosphere is described. The formation mechanism of these fluctuations is associated with the cascade transport of energy from sources of atmospheric gravity waves to wave disturbances with shorter vertical scales (than the scales of the initial disturbances generated by the sources) and, at the same time, with longer horizontal scales. This model is used to take into account the effects of infrasonic-wave scattering from anisotropic inhomogeneities of the effective sound speed in the atmosphere. Experimental data on the stratospheric, mesospheric, and thermospheric arrivals of signals (generated by explosion sources such as surface explosions and volcanoes) in the zones of acoustic shadow are interpreted on the basis of the results of calculations of the scattered infrasonic field in the context of the parabolic equation. The signals calculated with consideration for the fine structure of wind velocity and air temperature are compared with the signals observed in a shadow zone. The possibility to acoustically sound this structure at heights of both the middle and upper atmospheres is discussed.     

Statistics of Wind and Waves off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka, in the Eastern Tsushima Strait

The variability of the sea surface wind and wind waves in the coastal area of the Eastern Tsushima Strait was investigated based on the hourly data from 1990 to 1997 obtained at a station 2 km off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka. The annual mean wind speed was 4.84 m s⁻¹, with strong northwesterly monsoon in winter and weak southwesterly wind in summer. Significant wave heights and wave periods showed similar sinusoidal seasonal cycles around their annual means of 0.608 m and 4.77 s, respectively. The seasonal variability relative to the annual mean is maximum for wave heights, medium for wind speeds, and minimum for wave periods. Significant wave heights off Tsuyazaki turned out to be bounded by a criterion, which is proportional to the square of the significant wave period corresponding to a constant steepness, irrespective of the season or the wind speed. For terms shorter than a month, the significant wave height and the wave period were found to have the same spectral form as the inshore wind velocity: white for frequencies less than 0.2 day⁻¹ and proportional to the frequency to the −5/3 power for higher frequencies, where the latter corresponds to the inertial subrange of turbulence. The spectral levels of wave heights and wave periods in that inertial range were also correlated with those of the inshore wind velocity, though the scatter was large. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

The spectrum of subtidal variability in Chesapeake Bay circulation

The advent of long, continuous time series records of circulation in Chesapeake Bay has revealed the existence of large amplitude fluctuations within the subtidal range 0·03–0·6 cycles day⁻¹. These fluctuations represent direct and indirect response of the estuary to variations in wind stress, fresh water inflow, and coastal sea level. The fluctuations in circulation are accompanied by synchronous fluctuations in transportable properties such as salinity and temperature. A quantitative model is presented to explain this variability within the main stem of Chesapeake Bay in terms of a linear reponse to irregular, time-varying meteorological forcing. The model calculates transfer functions and energy spectra of laterally averaged transport, surface elevation, and salinity in two layers separated by a halocline, over the frequency band 0·03–0·6 cycles day⁻¹. Transfer functions between volume transport and wind stress obtained from one-month-long field experiments at three different cross sections in Chesapeake Bay are used to constrain model friction parameters. Using existing estimates for wind stress and coastal sea level energy spectra, energy spectra for volume transport and surface elevation are calculated as a function of longitudinal position. It is found that the observed volume transport spectrum at the mouth of the Bay can be explained quantitatively as the combined response to statistically indepentdent wind stress and sea level fluctuations. Variations in sea level account for 90% of the volume transport variance at the Bay mouth and dominate the volume transport spectrum below 0·375 cycles day⁻¹. In the upper Bay, longitudinal wind stress accounts for most of the variance. A maximum in the volume transport spectrum at 0·4 cycles day⁻¹, caused by a local maximum in the wind spectrum, is found at all upper Bay cross sections.     

波致应力的近似求解及其太平洋特征分析

基于波致应力计算中对海浪谱和波浪增长率公式的敏感性分析,选择适当的波致应力近似求解方法,计算和探讨了太平洋波致应力的时空分布特征。敏感性分析中,选择了4种常用的波浪增长率公式和3种经验解析海浪谱。推导了计算波致应力的单波公式,并将其与JONSWAP谱积分公式和Elfouhaily谱积分公式进行比较,同时使用了由风速和有效波高资料构造的Elfouhaily谱积分公式计算太平洋波致应力。结果表明:Belcher等(1993)的波浪增长率计算公式估算的波致应力与实验数据吻合度较好,同时适用ERA-interim数据;当波龄小于1.2时运用Elfouhaily谱积分公式更合适,当波龄大于1.2时运用单波公式更快速有效;太平洋的波致应力分布与风场之间存在明显的相关性;2009年1月、4月、7月和10月太平洋波致应力的季节性特征分析表明四个季节的西风带波致应力较其他地区都更强盛,而在时间变化上1月和10月为波致应力整体较为强盛的时期。     

The structure and dynamics of the Bottom Boundary Layer in shallow sea areas without tidal influence: an experimental approach

This report describes extensive investigations of the near bottom layer of the Western Baltic (Mecklenburg Bight, Darss Sill and Arkona Basin) which were conducted over a 5 year period to determine the typical structure, vertical thickness, vertical turbulence structure, and spatial and temporal variability of this water mass with regard to the area's particular hydrographic conditions. Series of vertical profiles were obtained using the microstructure profiler MSS86, which is capable of measuring high resolution profiles of temperature, conductivity, current shear, light attenuation and pressure down to the seafloor. The near bottom current structure was simultaneously measured with conventional current metres at fixed depths. A typical vertical density structure of the near bottom layer was found. At all investigation sites the Bottom Boundary Layer was separated from the overlying water mass by a well pronounced thermohaline pycnocline. A homogeneous water layer was situated above the bottom with a mean thickness of 2.2 m and typical variation between 0.5 and 3.5 m. The thickness of both the homogeneous layer and of the near bottom layer vary considerably. It is suggested that horizontal advection is responsible for these fluctuations in thickness. The variation in thickness of the Homogeneous Layer is independent of the local mean current velocity, wind speed and energy dissipation rate. Over periods of about 2 days the thickness of the Homogeneous Layer is determined by the average wind speed. The Bottom Boundary Layer shows its own characteristic dynamic, which is largely decoupled from that of the remaining water body. A logarithmic layer was generally not resolved by the current measurements. From dissipation rate measurements, the wall layer was determined to be 0.9 m thick. There was no significant correlation between the dissipation rate and the local wind speed, or between the dissipation rate and local mean current u₁₀₀. This means that any simple parameterisation relating u₁₀₀ or friction velocity to the locally produced turbulence and consequently to the resuspension of sediment is probably not applicable to shallow sea areas with properties like the Western Baltic. The investigation of sediment concentration in the BBL illustrates the importance of local effects combined with advection. The sediment stratified layer covers only the bottom most 50 cm.     

地形和风速影响下的海气相互作用大涡模拟研究

当水流经过海洋地形时,水流的不稳定性会引起垂向混合并伴随大量湍流过程。针对传统海气耦合模式缺少在湍流尺度上讨论海洋地形与风速对海气相互作用影响的问题,使用并行大涡模拟海气耦合模式(the parallelized large eddy simulation model, PALM)在5 m/s的背景风场下,引入理想立方体地形,对比有无地形的影响;设置地形边长为L,高为3L (其中大气部分高L), L与水深H之比为L/H=1/2;然后保持地形条件不变。设置5、10和15 m/s三种风速,讨论风速对小尺度海气相互作用的影响。研究表明:地形在大气部分减弱顺风向速度,增强侧风向速度,影响0～5L的高度区域,而对垂向作用较小;无地形条件下湍流垂向涡黏系数K_m在-0.3L时,水深达到最大值0.024 m²/s,有地形条件下K_m在-0.8L时,达到最大值为0.16 m²/s,地形的存在使得上层海洋混合加强, K_m最大值增加1个数量级。随风速增大海洋和大气中的净热通量、淡水通量和浮力通量都相应...     

Combined tidal and wind driven flows and bedload transport over a flat bottom

The combined tidal and wind driven flow and resulting sediment transport in the ocean over a flat bottom at intermediate water depth has been investigated, using a simple one dimensional two-equation turbulence closure model. This model has been verified against field measurements of a tidal flow in the Celtic Sea. The tidal velocity ellipses and the time series of the horizontal velocity components at given elevations above the bottom are well predicted through the water column although there are some deviations between the predicted and measured velocities near the bottom due to the uncertainty of the bottom roughness. For the combined tidal and wind driven flows the velocity profiles, turbulent kinetic energy profiles and surface particle trajectories are predicted for weak and strong winds. Furthermore, the bottom shear stress and the resulting bedload transport have been predicted; the parts of the particle trajectories in the close vicinity of the bottom where the bedload transport exists are displayed. Finally, the direction and magnitude of the surface drift, the depth-averaged mean velocity and the mean bedload transport are given, and the effect of the bottom roughness on the sea surface drift is investigated.     

An investigation of the velocity field under regular and irregular waves over a sand beach

Near-bed horizontal (cross-shore) and vertical velocity measurements were acquired in a laboratory wave flume over a 1:8 sloping sand beach of finite depth. Data were acquired using a three-component acoustic Doppler velocimeter to measure the velocity field close to, but at a fixed distance from the bed. The near-bed velocity field is examined as close as 1.5 cm above a trough and crest of a ripple under three different types of wave forcing (Stokes waves, Stokes groups, and irregular waves). Although both horizontal and vertical velocity measurements were made, attention is focused primarily on the vertical velocity. The results clearly indicate that the measured near-bed vertical velocity (which was outside the wave-bottom boundary layer) is distinctly nonzero and not well predicted by linear theory. Spectral and bispectral analysis techniques indicate that the vertical velocity responds differently depending on the location over a ripple, and that ripple-induced effects on the velocity field are present as high as 4–8 cm above the bed (for vortex ripples with wavelengths on the order of 8 cm and amplitudes on the order of 2 cm). At greater heights above the bed, the observed wave-induced motion is adequately predicted by the linear theory.