A note on the amount of wave energy transmitted over nearshore sand bars

The wave energy loss as waves break on nearshore bars is an important geomorphological process as it controls the stability of the adjacent beaches and dunes. The effect is particularly important during storms as it serves to guard against severe shoreline erosion. Field measurements from Florida and Ireland of waves crossing both single and multiple bar bedforms, indicate that where bar-breaking occurs, between 78 and 99 per cent of wave energy may be dissipated from individual waves. However, a further 20 per cent energy may reach the shore if wave frequencies increase during the reformation process. This latter effect was not noted at the multiple bar site where spilling mode breakers dominate. The level of energy dissipation is related to the time taken to cross that section of the submerged bar below the critical depth, d < 1.28H. In the field this may be approximated by the ratio of wave speed to the width of the bar breaker zone.     

Reflection of an internal wave at an interface representing a rapid increase in viscosity

Abstract

Internal waves at high altitudes are greatly damped by the drastic increase in molecular viscosity and thermal diffusivity, resulting in important heating and other effects at those altitudes. Here we consider the case where this increase in viscosity is very rapid, idealized as an interface with inviscid flow in the lower layer and constant viscosity in the upper layer. The results show that waves are partially reflected by this interface, with a reflection coefficient that increases monotonically with an increase in the viscosity of the upper layer. This mechanism would have a significant impact on the vertical distribution of thermal energy at high altitudes.     

改进的二维数值波浪水槽在波浪破碎中的应用

Song和Banner（2002,简称SB02）利用二维数值波浪水槽（Drimer和Agnon开发,并被Segre改进,简称DAS）研究了深水及中等水深下波群破碎,并依据波群内部能量调制和演变特性提出一个新的波浪破碎阈值.本文利用两个DAS改进模型对SB02的波浪破碎结果进行检验和比较,并研究底面斜坡坡度对SB02破碎判据的影响,其中第一个改进模型（简称MDAS1）修正了DAS中某些积分的计算错误,第二个改进模型（简称MDAS2）在自由表面上用三阶元取代原来的线性元.研究表明： MDAS1和DAS的结果非常一致;而MDAS2和MDAS1相比,波浪临界破碎时的造波板振幅、破碎时刻和局部能量极大值的最大平均变化率δmax都会发生变化,但MDAS2仍然符合SB02提出的破碎阈值.由MDAS1模拟中等水深下波群在坡度为1∶500、1∶300、1∶150和1∶100斜坡上的破碎结果表明：随着斜坡变陡,波群的局部能量极大值μ增大,δmax在临界非破碎情况下微弱变小,在临界破碎情况下急剧增大,SB02提出的破碎阈值在中等水深下坡度小于1∶100的斜坡上仍然有效.     

Seasonal variations in internal wave energy in a Scottish sea loch

Near-continuous observations of an internal wave field were made over a period of 13 months at a location in Inchmarnock Water at the northern end of the Clyde Sea. This paper sets out to determine the seasonal form of the energy density of the internal wave field at this location based on the hypothesis that it varies smoothly throughout the year, being greater in summer than in winter. The mooring was maintained between June 1999 and July 2000 in 150-m water with seven deployments. Estimates of kinetic and potential energy density were derived from Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) and vertical temperature profiles respectively. Both were shown to vary on time scales less than 1 month with median values of mean kinetic energy (KE) density0.5 J m^–3 and for mean potential energy (PE) density0.01 J m^–3. The energy of the internal wave field was found to be continuous and without a clear seasonal form. Further, it was also always non-zero with intermittent peaks of much higher energy. In the late autumn the system experienced complete vertical overturning driven by local convective processes destroying the thermocline and causing a reduction in the overall KE density.Responsible Editor: Jens KappeubergOrginally presented as a poster at PECS 2002, Hamburg Germany     

Effects of chemical dispersants and mineral fines on crude oil dispersion in a wave tank under breaking waves

The interaction of chemical dispersants and suspended sediments with crude oil influences the fate and transport of oil spills in coastal waters. A wave tank study was conducted to investigate the effects of chemical dispersants and mineral fines on the dispersion of oil and the formation of oil-mineral-aggregates (OMAs) in natural seawater. Results of ultraviolet spectrofluorometry and gas chromatography flame ionized detection analysis indicated that dispersants and mineral fines, alone and in combination, enhanced the dispersion of oil into the water column. Measurements taken with a laser in situ scattering and transmissometer (LISST-100X) showed that the presence of mineral fines increased the total concentration of the suspended particles from 4 to 10microl l(-1), whereas the presence of dispersants decreased the particle size (mass mean diameter) of OMAs from 50 to 10microm. Observation with an epifluorescence microscope indicated that the presence of dispersants, mineral fines, or both in combination significantly increased the number of particles dispersed into the water.     

A review of gravity wave saturation processes,effects, and variability in the middle atmosphere

This paper provides a review of our current understanding of the processes responsible for gravity wave saturation as well as the principal effects and variability of saturation in the lower and middle atmosphere. We discuss the theoretical and observational evidence for linear and nonlinear saturation processes and examine the consequences of saturation for wave amplitude limits, momentum and energy fluxes, the diffusion of heat and constituents, and the establishment of a near-universal vertical wavenumber spectrum. Recent studies of gravity wave variability are reviewed and are seen to provide insights into the significant causes of wave variability throughout the atmosphere.     

Simulation of irregular waves in an offshore wind farm with a spectral wave model

A numerical study of irregular waves in the Norwegian continental shelf wind farm (HAVSUL-II) was conducted using 3rd generation spectral wave models. The study was composed of two parts: the study of the effect of a single windmill monopile in the local incoming wave field using an empirical JONSWAP spectrum, and a wave hindcast study in the wind farm area using realistic incoming wave spectra obtained from large scale simulations for the 1991-1992 winter period. In the single windmill monopile study the SWAN wave model was used, while the hindcast study was conducted by successively nesting from a coarse grid using the WAM model up to a high-resolution (56 m) grid covering 26.2 km² of the HAVSUL-II windmill farm using the SWAN model. The effect of a single monopile on incident waves with realistic spectra was also studied. In the single windmill study the monopile was represented as a closed circular obstacle and in the hindcast study it was represented as a dry grid point. The results showed that the single windmill monopile creates a shadow zone in the down wave region with lower significant wave height (H_s) values and a slight increase of H_s in the up wave region. The effects of the windmill monopile on the wave field were found to be dependent on the directional distribution of the incoming wave spectrum and also on the wave diffraction and reflection. The hindcast study showed that the group of windmill monopiles may contribute to the reduction of the wave energy inside the offshore wind farm and that once the waves enter into the offshore wind farm they experience modifications due to the presence of the windmill monopiles, which cause a blocking of the wave energy propagation resulting in an altered distribution of the H_s field.     

A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach,Brazil: Prediction and inversion

The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.     

Modelling the wave phenomena in acoustic and elastic media with sharp variations of physical properties using the grid‐characteristic method

This paper introduces a novel method of modelling acoustic and elastic wave propagation in inhomogeneous media with sharp variations of physical properties based on the recently developed grid‐characteristic method which considers different types of waves generated in inhomogeneous linear‐elastic media (e.g., longitudinal, transverse, Stoneley, Rayleigh, scattered PP‐, SS‐waves, and converted PS‐ and SP‐waves). In the framework of this method, the problem of solving acoustic or elastic wave equations is reduced to the interpolation of the solutions, determined at earlier time, thus avoiding a direct solution of the large systems of linear equations required by the FD or FE methods. We apply the grid‐characteristic method to compare wave phenomena computed using the acoustic and elastic wave equations in geological medium containing a hydrocarbon reservoir or a fracture zone. The results of this study demonstrate that the developed algorithm can be used as an effective technique for modelling wave phenomena in the models containing hydrocarbon reservoir and/or the fracture zones, which are important targets of seismic exploration.     

超声反射法套管-地层环空间介质波阻抗反演方法与成像实例

针对套管井反射式超声波水泥固井质量检测问题,本文利用超声反射波频谱中套管共振透射窗内的复合反射系数,提出了定量反演套管-地层环空间内介质的波阻抗的方法. 利用复合反射系数中多个频率点的相移反正切函数主值,给出了波阻抗的计算公式,并把套管-地层环空间介质中波的相移的整、实特性作为波阻抗反演收敛的判据. 针对井下实际测井环境中超声换能器性能受温度和压力等的影响而发生变化,导致的声源波形（子波）和复合反射系数不确定的困难,提出了用井下原地（in situ）实测波形定量估计声源波形和复合反射系数的方法. 通过对合成数据的处理,分别考察了已知介质的声学和几何参数存在的偏差对套管-地层环空间内介质的波阻抗反演结果的影响. 本文对多组模型井检验数据进行了目的层介质的波阻抗反演与成像,成像结果与真实情况吻合,验证了反演方法的有效性. 最后对现场实测资料进行了套管-地层环空间内介质的波阻抗定量反演与成像.     

云南宾川盆地及周边地震波走时的季节性变化和可能的物理机制

基于背景噪声自相关方法, 本文计算了云南宾川盆地及周边区域地震波在四个频段的相对走时变化(dt/t), 发现存在比较显著的年变和半年变特征, 最大变化幅度从0.1~0.2 Hz(7 km左右深度最敏感)的±0.8%逐渐降低至1.0~2.0 Hz(对应1 km以浅介质)的±0.05%.噪声源季节性变化可能是dt/t周期性起伏的一个潜在因素, 但雨水和温度与其有更直接的关联性.其中雨水渗透产生的介质孔隙压变化是年变和半年变的重要贡献因素; 而温度起伏产生的介质热力学形变, 主要对一定深度范围(3 km左右最敏感)的介质有明显的年变影响.不同频段走时变化存在幅度差异和不同步, 可能和各频段敏感核的深度范围以及水与热力学形变从地表向深部渗透/传播过程有关.研究表明, 环境因素对地下介质的地震波走时有较为显著的影响, 区分出它们的贡献, 才能更可靠地评估地震构造应力或人文生态环境的变化.

     

新疆库尔勒地区秋季下平流层重力波特性

利用2011年秋季无线电探空数据,采用矢端曲线法首次分析了新疆库尔勒地区下平流层重力波特征参量,得到36组准单色重力波的结果.结果统计显示：库尔勒秋季下平流层重力波垂直波长、水平波长平均值分别为2.8 km和580 km,固有频率平均值为1.74f.垂直传播方向以上传为主,约占78%,其中下传重力波水平波长较短,固有频率较高.水平传播方向以西北和东南为主,各占1/3,其中上传（下传）重力波水平传播方向以西北（东南）居多,这与热带低纬站点和其他中纬站点观测结果不同.与其他站点比较,库尔勒地区最小,中高纬地区水平波长、垂直波长随纬度增加大致有减小的趋势,库尔勒地区偏离这一趋势,波长偏大.     

A new laboratory technique for determining the compressional wave properties of marine sediments at sonic frequencies and in situ pressures

We describe a new laboratory technique for measuring the compressional wave velocity and attenuation of jacketed samples of unconsolidated marine sediments within the acoustic (sonic) frequency range 1–10 kHz and at elevated differential (confining – pore) pressures up to 2.413 MPa (350 psi). The method is particularly well suited to attenuation studies because the large sample length (up to 0.6 m long, diameter 0.069 m) is equivalent to about one wavelength, thus giving representative bulk values for heterogeneous samples. Placing a sediment sample in a water‐filled, thick‐walled, stainless steel Pulse Tube causes the spectrum of a broadband acoustic pulse to be modified into a decaying series of maxima and minima, from which the Stoneley and compressional wave, velocity and attenuation of the sample can be determined. Experiments show that PVC and copper jackets have a negligible effect on the measured values of sediment velocity and attenuation, which are accurate to better than ± 1.5% for velocity and up to ± 5% for attenuation. Pulse Tube velocity and attenuation values for sand and silty‐clay samples agree well with published data for similar sediments, adjusted for pressure, temperature, salinity and frequency using standard equations. Attenuation in sand decreases with pressure to small values below Q^?1 = 0.01 (Q greater than 100) for differential pressures over 1.5 MPa, equivalent to sub‐seafloor depths of about 150 m. By contrast, attenuation in silty clay shows little pressure dependence and intermediate Q^?1 values between 0.0206–0.0235 (Q = 49–43). The attenuation results fill a notable gap in the grain size range of published data sets. Overall, we show that the Pulse Tube method gives reliable acoustic velocity and attenuation results for typical marine sediments.     

Temporal variations of gas compositions of fumaroles in the Tatun Volcano Group,northern Taiwan

Hydrothermal activity is common in the Tatun Volcano Group of northern Taiwan. Helium isotopic compositions of fumarolic samples show that mantle component occupies more than 60% in the previous study. Along with recent seismic results, a magma reservoir is inferred to have existed beneath the area of Da-you-keng, where fumarolic venting is the most active in Tatun Volcano Group. Progressive increases of HCl concentrations and SO₂/H₂S ratio in fumaroles from Da-you-keng have been observed since August 2004. The HCl concentration changed from almost the detection limit to thousands of ppm, even up to 30,000 ppm. SO₂/H₂S ratios varied from almost 0 to 3; hence SO₂ became the dominated S species in this area. These variations were accompanied by rising temperature of fumaroles in the Tatun Volcano Group, especially in the area of Da-you-keng (from boiling point to 131 °C). Meanwhile, ³He/⁴He ratios showed a decreasing trend but returned to normal values shortly thereafter. We propose two possible processes, 1) new magma supply and 2) recent opening of fractures in local area, to explain these observations. Based on the change of ³He/⁴He ratio and lack of ground deformation, we consider the latter might be more plausible.     

Beach erosion as a function of variations in the sediment budget,Sandy Hook,New Jersey,U.S.A.

Many of the world's beaches have recently been eroding, even on progradational landforms. This study uses the sediment budget approach to identify and rank the causes of the hazard along Sandy Hook spit where the primary recreational beach has been eroding at about 10 m/yr since 1953 and 23 m/yr in the 1970s. Large spatial variations in longshore sediment transport are found to result from differences in refracted wave energies and intersegmental sediment transport. Erosion results from a 60 per cent deficit (-270,000 m³/yr) in the sediment budget that is primarily caused by (1) refraction induced locally high waves that increase the transport rate by 100,000 m³, and (2) shore protection structures that have lessened the longshore sediment inputs by an additional 100,000 m³/yr. A storm index is presented to analyse secular climatic variation. It suggests that the annual sediment transport rate may vary by as much as ±50 per cent about the mean and that recently, above normal storm wave energies are responsible for about 60,000 m³/yr of the budget deficit. Rising sea levels and storm overwash each account for only about one per cent of the sediment loss. Pulses of sediment, induced by accelerated erosion at the feeder beach locale of spit segments, are found to move downdrift. They alter the geomorphology of the spit through episodic extensions of the spit segments with lag times exceeding one year per segment.     

Future evolution of a tidal inlet due to changes in wave climate, Sea level and lagoon morphology (Óbidos lagoon, Portugal)

Tidal inlets are extremely dynamic, as a result of an often delicate balance between the effects of tides, waves and other forcings. Since the morphology of these inlets can affect navigation, water quality and ecosystem dynamics, there is a clear need to anticipate their evolution in order to promote adequate management decisions. Over decadal time scales, the position and size of tidal inlets are expected to evolve with the conditions that affect them, for instance as a result of climate change. A process-based morphodynamic modeling system is validated and used to analyze the effects of sea level rise, an expected shift in the wave direction and the reduction of the upper lagoon surface area by sedimentation on a small tidal inlet (Óbidos lagoon, Portugal). A new approach to define yearly wave regimes is first developed, which includes a seasonal behavior, random inter-annual variability and the possibility to extrapolate trends. Once validated, this approach is used to produce yearly time series of wave spectra for the present and for the end of the 21st century, considering the local rotation trends computed using hindcast results for the past 57 years. Predictions of the mean sea level for 2100 are based on previous studies, while the bathymetry of the upper lagoon for the same year is obtained by extrapolation of past trends. Results show, and data confirm, that the Óbidos lagoon inlet has three stable configurations, largely determined by the inter-annual variations in the wave characteristics. Both sea level rise and the reduction of the lagoon surface area will promote the accretion of the inlet. In contrast, the predicted rotation of the wave regime, within foreseeable limits, will have a negligible impact on the inlet morphology.     

Assessing tectonic and climatic causal mechanisms in foreland‐basin stratal architecture: insights from the Alborz Mountains,northern Iran

The southern foreland basin of the Alborz Mountains of northern Iran is characterized by an approximately 7.3‐km‐thick sequence of Miocene sedimentary rocks, constituting three basin‐wde coarsening‐upward units spanning a period of 10⁶ years. We assess available magnetostratigraphy, paleoclimatic reconstructions, stratal architecture, records of depositional environments, and sediment‐provenance data to characterize the relationships between tectonically‐generated accommodation space (A) and sediment supply (S). Our analysis allows an inversion of the stratigraphy for particular forcing mechanisms, documenting causal relationships, and providing a basis to decipher the relative contributions of tectonics and climate (inferred changes in precipitation) in controlling sediment supply to the foreland basin. Specifically, A/S > 1, typical of each basal unit (17.5–16.0, 13.8–13.1 and 10.3–9.6 Ma), is associated with sharp facies retrogradation and reflects substantial tectonic subsidence. Within these time intervals, arid climatic conditions, changes in sediment provenance, and accelerated exhumation in the orogen suggest that sediment supply was most likely driven by high uplift rates. Conversely, A/S < 1 (13.8 and 13.8–11 Ma, units 1, and 2) reflects facies progradation during a sharp decline in tectonic subsidence caused by localized intra‐basinal uplift. During these time intervals, climate continued to be arid and exhumation active, suggesting that sediment supply was again controlled by tectonics. A/S < 1, at 11–10.3 Ma and 9‐6–7.6 Ma (and possibly 6.2; top of units 2 and 3), is also associated with two episodes of extensive progradation, but during wetter phases. The first episode appears to have been linked to a pulse in sediment supply driven by an increase in precipitation. The second episode reflects a balance between a climatically‐induced increase in sediment supply and a reduction of subsidence through the incorporation of the proximal foreland into the orogenic wedge. This in turn caused an expansion of the catchment and a consequent further increase in sediment supply. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A modelling study of the latitudinal variations in the nighttime plasma temperatures of the equatorial topside ionosphere during northern winter at solar maximum

Latitudinal variations in the nighttime plasma temperatures of the equatorial topside ionosphere during northern winter at solar maximum have been examined by using values modelled by SUPIM (Sheffield University Plasmasphere Ionosphere Model) and observations made by the DMSP F10 satellite at 21.00 LT near 800 km altitude. The modelled values confirm that the crests observed near 15° latitude in the winter hemisphere are due to adiabatic heating and the troughs observed near the magnetic equator are due to adiabatic cooling as plasma is transported along the magnetic field lines from the summer hemisphere to the winter hemisphere. The modelled values also confirm that the interhemispheric plasma transport needed to produce the required adiabatic heating/cooling can be induced by F-region neutral winds. It is shown that the longitudinal variations in the observed troughs and crests arise mainly from the longitudinal variations in the magnetic meridional wind. At longitudes where the magnetic declination angle is positive the eastward geographic zonal wind combines with the northward (summer hemisphere to winter hemisphere) geographic meridional wind to enhance the northward magnetic meridional wind. This leads to deeper troughs and enhanced crests. At longitudes where the magnetic declination angle is negative the eastward geographic zonal wind opposes the northward geographic meridional wind and the trough depth and crest values are reduced. The characteristic features of the troughs and crests depend, in a complicated manner, on the field-aligned flow of plasma, thermal conduction, and inter-gas heat transfer. At the latitudes of the troughs/crests, the low/high plasma temperatures lead to increased/decreased plasma concentrations.     

洱海南部近岸微囊藻原位增殖的季节变化及影响因子

2017年7月—2018年4月在洱海南部近岸开展了4个季度的野外调查,利用细胞分裂频率法研究微囊藻原位增殖的季节变化及影响因子,结果显示:微囊藻细胞分裂频率的变化范围为6.13%～29.23%,白天显著大于夜间,但两个点位间和表中底3层间的差异均不显著;经计算,微囊藻原位生长速率的均值为(0.36±0.06)d^-1,总体高于其它有相关研究的湖泊。同时,微囊藻细胞分裂频率和原位生长速率具有显著的季节变化,表现为冬季最大(1月,19.65%±4.10%、(0.39±0.01)d^-1),秋季(10月,14.48%±4.73%、(0.36±0.02)d^-1)和夏季(7月,12.77%±3.81%、(0.37±0.07)d^-1)次之,春季(4月,10.37%±2.64%、(0.30±0.06) d^-1)最小,其中营养盐浓度的作用不明显,而地表太阳辐射和水温等影响较大。进一步分析发现,除地表太阳辐射外,影响细胞分裂频率昼夜变化的其它因子具有一定的季节异质性。研究结果可为深入研究洱海微囊藻水...