Shoreline change at an infinite jetty for wave time series

Future shoreline changes on a sandy beach with a structure such as a jetty or groin can be estimated when wave time series is known (i.e. sequence of wave height, period, and direction). This paper presents an extension of an existing solution (Pelnard-Considere, 1956) for the linearized partial differential equation for shoreline change at an infinite jetty where waves are time varying and when the angle of the shoreline is small with respect to the waves breaking at the shoreline. The novel solution provided in this paper allows the previous constant wave condition solution to be extended to the case where wave properties (i.e. wave direction, wave height, and wave period) are time varying. Example usage of the method presented shows that shorelines may be of different final plan form shape for time varying wave conditions even though the sediment transport along adjacent beaches is not spatially varying (i.e. spatially constant) from time step to time step. Although this difference in shape may have been known previously using numerical models, it could not be proved analytically. Reversals of wave height, period, and direction time series are shown to provide different final shoreline shapes even though the time series consists of the same waves although in different ordered time. The solution provided will allow one line numerical shoreline models to be tested using an analytic solution.     

Numerical investigation of the effect of seasonal variations of depthof-closure on shoreline evolution

The current study presents the effects of seasonal variations in the depth-of-closure(Dc)on shoreline evolution using a numerical,one-line shoreline model.Beach erosion of the southern beach of the Nha Trang Coast,which is located in south central of Vietnam,is selected as the study area.This study area is immensely influenced by the tropical monsoon climate that has a clear pattern of large waves in the northeast monsoon season and calm waves in the non-monsoon season.The analysis of the long-term measured shoreline variations from a video-camera system has found a strong correlation of these variations to the monsoon-dominated wave characteristics in the Nha Trang Bay.Therefore,a new approach for determining the depth-of-closure with consideration of the seasonal wave climate changes is purposed in the current study.By implementing this new approach into a numerical,one-line shoreline model,it is found that the seasonal variations of Dc appear to better describe the periodical shoreline evolution due to the monsoon-dominated wave characteristics for the Nha Trang Coast.Such important findings are considered to commonly apply for monsoon-dominated coastal regions in general.These findings are useful information not only for scientific readers but also for the coastal authorities and managers in order to make better countermeasure plans against this kind of erosion mechanism in the future.     

Variability in infragravity wave processes during estuary artificial entrance openings

Intermittently open/closed estuaries (IOCE) are wave-dominated estuaries with entrances that temporarily close to the ocean. Wave–current interactions play a major role in estuary entrance morphodynamics and influence the degree of energy transfer from the ocean into the lagoon. This study utilizes artificial entrance openings of multiple ICOE in Victoria, Australia, to capture continuous hydrodynamic and geomorphic data throughout the opening cycle. We illustrate that water level oscillations in the infragravity (IG) band) are present in the basin during open entrance conditions. IG waves were observed to propagate up to 1.8 km upstream of the mouth while the entrance was open. Our work identifies that changes in cross-sectional area, bed depth at the berm position, and offshore wave height control the magnitude of IG waves within the estuary basin. IG wave magnitude is also tidally modulated and increases with high tides when the nearshore water level is higher. Late during the drainage phase, waves were observed to track the margins of the channel, away from the thalweg, and reach the basin. IG wave energy was highest immediately after the basin had ceased draining and while channel dimensions at the mouth were within 10% of their maximum value. As the entrance aggrades, IG wave magnitude decreases in the absence of energetic offshore wave conditions. We relate the changes in IG wave magnitude and frequency to a six-stage conceptual model of the opening–closure sequence. Within the basin, IG wave energy, height and frequency were also consistently highest closer to the mouth and decreased with distance upstream. Our findings indicate that water level oscillations in the IG band are a persistent feature in IOCE and may be the norm rather than the exception in these systems. As IG waves were captured serendipitously as part of a larger field campaign, future work will focus on instrumenting IOCE to gain high-resolution data to quantify IG wave processes during entrance openings. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Formation events of shoreline sand waves on a gravel beach

Kilometric-scale shoreline sand waves (KSSW) have been observed in the north-east flank of the Dungeness Cuspate Foreland (southeastern coast of the UK). They consist of two bumps separated by embayments with a 350–450-m spacing. We have analysed 36 shoreline surveys of 2-km length using the Discrete Fourier Transformation (DFT), from 2005 to 2016, and seven topographic surveys encompassing the intertidal zone, from 2010 to 2016. The data set shows two clear formation events. In order to test the role of high-angle waves on the KSSW formation, the 10-year wave series is propagated from the wave buoy located at 43 m depth up to a location in front of the undulations at 4 m depth using the SWAN wave model. The dominating SW waves arrive with a very high incidence angle (～ 80°) while the NE waves arrive almost shore normal. The ratio R, which measures the degree of dominance of high-angle waves with respect to low-angle waves, correlates well with the shoreline DFT magnitude values of the observed wavelength undulations. In particular, the highest R values coincide with the formation events. Finally, a linear stability model based on the one-line approximation is applied to the Dungeness profile and the 10-year propagated wave series. It predicts accurately the formation moments, with positive growth rates in the correct order of magnitude for wavelengths similar to the observed ones. All these results confirm that the shoreline undulations in Dungeness are self-organized and that the underlying formation mechanism is the high-angle wave instability. The two detected formation events provide a unique opportunity to validate the existing morphodynamic models that include such instability.     

A note on the amount of wave energy transmitted over nearshore sand bars

The wave energy loss as waves break on nearshore bars is an important geomorphological process as it controls the stability of the adjacent beaches and dunes. The effect is particularly important during storms as it serves to guard against severe shoreline erosion. Field measurements from Florida and Ireland of waves crossing both single and multiple bar bedforms, indicate that where bar-breaking occurs, between 78 and 99 per cent of wave energy may be dissipated from individual waves. However, a further 20 per cent energy may reach the shore if wave frequencies increase during the reformation process. This latter effect was not noted at the multiple bar site where spilling mode breakers dominate. The level of energy dissipation is related to the time taken to cross that section of the submerged bar below the critical depth, d < 1.28H. In the field this may be approximated by the ratio of wave speed to the width of the bar breaker zone.     

A comparison of reef‐protected environments in ­Western Australia: the central west and Ningaloo coasts

Variability in the regional setting and morphology of cuspate forelands on the west coast of Western Australia is examined in this paper. In accordance with this aim, principal differences in the geologic and geomorphologic setting of three prominent sites on the west coast were established and their association with historical changes and contemporary oceanographic processes was examined. The cuspate forelands investigated are Jurien Bay, Winderabandi Point and Turquoise Bay. The most significant differences in geologic setting are associated with the structure and location of an extensive offshore reef system. Morphologically, the reef alters from south to north, changing from a discontinuous ridge parallel to the shore along the central west coast, to a nearly continuous fringing reef at Ningaloo. The reefs vary in distance from the shore, being farthest in the south and closest in the north and they impound a series of inshore basins, or lagoons. The deeper southern basins are dominated by locally generated wind waves and wind‐generated currents. The shallower northern basins are most markedly affected by tidal currents and wave pumping across the reef flats. The large cuspate foreland at Jurien on the central west coast has undergone shoreline configuration change in response to changing phases of storminess as well as in response to a change in focus for sediment deposition as a result of offshore reef erosion. At Winderabandi Point on the Ningaloo coast, relict Pleistocene limestone has provided the focus for sedimentation and morphology has been controlled by a balance in refracted wave energy and nearshore currents driven by tidal and wave set‐up variability. At Turquoise Bay, where the lagoonal basin is most shallow and narrow, the morphology of the foreland suggests that it may at some stage have been migratory, but its present asymmetrical shape is maintained by strong northerly longshore drift and strong currents exiting the lagoon through a nearby gap in the reef crest. Fundamental differences between the two coastal regions include the structure of the offshore reef, processes driving flow of water within the lagoons and the role of storminess in evolution of coastal landforms. Although many questions regarding storm surge dynamics and landform change remain unanswered, this research provides a significant contribution to the understanding of the evolution of morphological systems in low‐wave‐energy protected environments. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Extreme wave event along the Guyana coastline in October 2005

The objective of the research is to analyze in detail the causes and consequences of the unusual event at the coast of Guyana (South America) during October 16–19, 2005. Several sea defense structures were damaged and flooding of low-lying areas occurred. A data analysis of offshore wave and water level characteristics shows an abrupt change in wave direction from east to almost north on October 16, 2005 and a sudden increase in the offshore peak period up to extreme values. The offshore significant wave height was also relatively high, and these wave characteristics coincided with springtide conditions. The long-wave periods and the sharp transition in wave direction indicate that this event is associated with swell waves generated by a depression far away. An analysis of hurricanes and depressions reveals that a severe depression in the Northern Atlantic Ocean during October 11–15 was the origin of this swell event. Numerical computations with SWAN have been carried out to investigate the propagation of the offshore wave characteristics towards the shoreline. The SWAN model includes wave damping due to the presence of soft mud deposits. A calibration of the parameters has been carried out using joint offshore and onshore wave data from November 2006. The numerical simulations of the event in October 2005 clearly demonstrate that the mud banks damp the wave heights, but have almost no effect on the peak period. The resulting waves at the steep sea walls can be classified as surging waves causing severe runup and overtopping. The obtained insights are translated into practical recommendations for the Guyana Sea and River Defence Division in Guyana to build a sustainable management and maintenance of the sea defenses in the future.     

Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths,and swash zones

The role of wave forcing on the main hydro-morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross-shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non-local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter-related subsystems of the nearshore – the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone – are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave-forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave–current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non-local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large-scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash–swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along-river-flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

Beach Morphodynamics influenced by an ebb‐tidal delta on the north Florida Atlantic coast

Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Wave-driven circulation patterns in the lee of groynes

Surf zone drifters and a current meter were used to study the nearshore circulation patterns in the lee of groynes at Cottesloe Beach and City Beach in Western Australia. The circulation patterns revealed that a persistent re-circulation cell was present in the lee of the groyne which was driven by changes in wave set-up resulting from lower wave heights in the lee of the groyne. The re-circulation consisted of a longshore current directed towards the groyne which was deflected offshore due to groyne resulting in a rip current along the groyne face. The offshore-flowing rip current and the incoming waves converged at the offshore extent of this circulation cell, with the deflection of the rip current parallel to the shoreline and then completing the recirculation through an onshore component. The Eulerian measurements revealed that 55% of the currents on the lee side of the groyne were directed offshore and that these currents had a maximum speed of 2 m s^?1. Spectral analysis of the wave heights and the currents revealed several corresponding peaks in the measured spectral densities with timescales between 12 s and 50 min. Numerical simulations of an idealised beach with a shore-normal groyne were conducted using a circulation model driven by waves, and confirmed the formation of a persistent eddy in the lee of the groyne. Sensitivity studies indicated that the incident wave angle, wave period, and especially the wave height controlled the circulation. The eddy vorticity, a measure of an eddy's strength, increased roughly proportional to an increase in the incident wave energy flux.     

Modeling shoreline sand waves on the coasts of Namibia and Angola

The southwestern (SW) coast of Africa (Namibia and Angola) features long sandy beaches and a wave climate dominated by energetic swells from the Southsouthwest (SSW), therefore approaching the coast with a very high obliquity. Satellite images reveal that along that coast there are many shoreline sand waves with wavelengths ranging from 2 to 8 km. A more detailed study, including a Fourier analysis of the shoreline position, yields the wavelengths (among this range) with the highest spectral density concentration. Also, it becomes apparent that at least some of the sand waves are dynamically active rather than being controlled by the geological setting. A morphodynamic model is used to test the hypothesis that these sand waves could emerge as free morphodynamic instabilities of the coastline due to the obliquity in wave incidence. It is found that the period of the incident water waves, T_p, is crucial to establish the tendency to stability or instability, instability increasing for decreasing period, whilst there is some discrepancy in the observed periods. Model results for T_p = 7–8 s clearly show the tendency for the coast to develop free sand waves at about 4 km wavelength within a few years, which migrate to the north at rates of 0.2–0.6 km yr^?1. For larger T_p or steeper profiles, the coast is stable but sand waves originated by other mechanisms can propagate downdrift with little decay.     

Stream function finite elements for nearshore current

This paper presents a finite element method for the analysis of nearshore current, which is mainly induced by surface waves. The analysis is divided into two parts, i.e., the analysis of wave and the analysis of currents. The basic equations are conservation of wave number, wave energy, momentum and continuity. The first two are for wave analysis and the last two for the current analysis. The wave angle is determined from the conservation law of wave number. Using the resulting wave angle and the conservation of wave energy, the distribution of wave height is derived. The radiation stress is derived from the wave angle and height. The nearshore current flow is obtained from the conservations of momentum and continuity including the radiation stress. All the numerical procedures are based on the finite element method. For the analysis of the wave angle and wave height, the incremental iteration method and logarithmic function formulation are employed. For the analysis of the current flow, the stream function formulation is used. From the numerical computations, it is seen that the finite element method presented in this paper is very valuable in practical applications. The method is applied to the analysis of the nearshore current flow of Twan Bay in Japan.     

Future wave climate over the west-European shelf seas

In this paper, we investigate changes in the wave climate of the west-European shelf seas under global warming scenarios. In particular, climate change wind fields corresponding to the present (control) time-slice 1961–2000 and the future (scenario) time-slice 2061–2100 are used to drive a wave generation model to produce equivalent control and scenario wave climate. Yearly and seasonal statistics of the scenario wave climates are compared individually to the corresponding control wave climate to identify relative changes of statistical significance between present and future extreme and prevailing wave heights. Using global, regional and linked global–regional wind forcing over a set of nested computational domains, this paper further demonstrates the sensitivity of the results to the resolution and coverage of the forcing. It suggests that the use of combined forcing from linked global and regional climate models of typical resolution and coverage is a good option for the investigation of relative wave changes in the region of interest of this study. Coarse resolution global forcing alone leads to very similar results over regions that are highly exposed to the Atlantic Ocean. In contrast, fine resolution regional forcing alone is shown to be insufficient for exploring wave climate changes over the western European waters because of its limited coverage. Results obtained with the combined global–regional wind forcing showed some consistency between scenarios. In general, it was shown that mean and extreme wave heights will increase in the future only in winter and only in the southwest of UK and west of France, north of about 44–45° N. Otherwise, wave heights are projected to decrease, especially in summer. Nevertheless, this decrease is dominated by local wind waves whilst swell is found to increase. Only in spring do both swell and local wind waves decrease in average height.     

Wind-wave transformations in an elongated bay

In order to determine wave transformations in an elongated bay, a numerical solution was used to interpret yearlong records of bottom pressure and wind velocity obtained at the mouth and head of Concepción Bay, on the Gulf of California side of the Baja California peninsula. Observed wind waves were predominantly produced by southeastward winds in the winter and north–northwestward winds in the summer. Typical mean wave periods at the bay entrance were between 3 and 5 s. In contrast, the waves at the head of the bay had predominant periods <3 s. The energetic long-period swell waves were dissipated somewhere in the bay as they were not observed at the head of the bay. This study centered in identifying the effects that caused swell waves to attenuate in the bay. The ‘Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN)’ model was used to determine the cause for such wave attenuation. Model results showed that swell waves were attenuated because of the combined effects of bottom friction, wave breaking, whitecapping, refraction and wave blocking by the coastline. Most of the attenuation (close to 90%), however, was caused by wave blocking owing to the change of coastline orientation of the bay. This wave blocking mechanism should therefore be explored further in embayments of complex coastline morphology.     

Waves and tides responsible for the intermittent closure of the entrance of a small, sheltered tidal wetland at San Francisco, CA

Crissy Field Marsh (CFM; http://www.nps.gov/prsf/planyourvisit/crissy-field-marsh-and-beach.htm) is a small, restored tidal wetland located in the entrance to San Francisco Bay just east of the Golden Gate. The marsh is small but otherwise fairly typical of many such restored wetlands worldwide. The marsh is hydraulically connected to the bay and the adjacent Pacific Ocean by a narrow sandy channel. The channel often migrates and sometimes closes completely, which effectively blocks the tidal connection to the ocean and disrupts the hydraulics and ecology of the marsh. Field measurements of waves and tides have been examined in order to evaluate the conditions responsible for the intermittent closure of the marsh entrance. The most important factor found to bring about the entrance channel closure is the occurrence of large ocean waves. However, there were also a few closure events during times with relatively small offshore waves. Examination of the deep-water directional wave spectra during these times indicates the presence of a small secondary peak corresponding to long period swell from the southern hemisphere, indicating that CFM and San Francisco Bay in general may be more susceptible to long period ocean swell emanating from the south or southwest than the more common ocean waves coming from the northwest. The tidal records during closure events show no strong relationship between closures and tides, other than that closures tend to occur during multi-day periods with successively increasing high tides. It can be inferred from these findings that the most important process to the intermittent closure of the entrance to CFM is littoral sediment transport driven by the influence of ocean swell waves breaking along the CFM shoreline at oblique angles. During periods of large, oblique waves the littoral transport of sand likely overwhelms the scour potential of the tidal flow in the entrance channel.     

Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing

There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (H_s/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<H_s/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (H_s/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s^‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand: Observations of nearshore sediment segregation and oceanic storms

Nearshore regions act as an interface between the terrestrial environment and deeper waters. As such, they play important roles in the dispersal of fluvial sediment and the transport of sand to and from the shoreline. This study focused on the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand, and the processes controlling the dispersal of sediment from the main source, the Waipaoa River. Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in water shallower than 15 m were observed from April through mid-September 2006. This deployment afforded observations during 3-4 periods of elevated river discharge and 5 dry storms.Similar wind, river discharge, wave, current, and turbidity patterns were characterized during three of the wet storms. At the beginning of each event, winds blew shoreward, increasing wave heights to 2-3 m within Poverty Bay. As the cyclonic storms moved through the system the winds reversed direction and became seaward, reducing the local wave height and orbital velocity while river discharge remained elevated. At these times, high river discharge and relatively small waves enabled fluvially derived suspended sediment to deposit in shallow water. Altimetry measurements indicated that at least 7 cm was deposited at a 15 m deep site during a single discharge event. Turbidity and seabed observations showed this deposition to be removed, however, as large swell waves from the Southern Ocean triggered resuspension of the material within three weeks of deposition. Consequently, two periods of dispersal were associated with each discharge pulse, one coinciding with fluvial delivery, and a second driven by wave resuspension a few weeks later. These observations of nearfield sediment deposition contradict current hypotheses of very limited sediment deposition in shallow water offshore of small mountainous rivers when floods and high-energy, large wave and fast current, oceanic conditions coincide.Consistently shoreward near-bed currents, observed along the 10 m isobath of Poverty Bay, were attributed to a combination of estuarine circulation, Stokes drift, and wind driven upwelling. Velocities measured at the 15 m isobath, however, were directed more alongshore and diverged from those at the 10 m isobath. The divergence in the currents observed at the 10 and 15 m locations seemed to facilitate segregation of coarse and fine sediment, with sand transported near-bed toward the beach, while suspended silts and clays were exported to deeper water.     

Backshore coarsening processes triggered by wave‐induced sand transport: the critical role of storm events

Spatial backshore processes were investigated through field observations of topography and median sand grain size at a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. A comparison of the backshore profile and cross‐shore distribution of the median sand grain size in 1999 and 2004 revealed an unusual sedimentary process in which sand was coarsened in a depositional area in the 5‐year period, although sediment is generally coarsened in erosional areas. In support of these observations, monthly spatial field analyses carried out in 2004 demonstrated a remarkable backshore coarsening process triggered by sedimentation in the seaward part of the backshore during a storm event. In order to elucidate mechanisms involved in the backshore coarsening process, thresholds of movable sand grain size under wave and wind actions (a uniform parameter for both these cases) in the onshore and offshore directions were estimated using wave, tide, and wind data. The cross‐shore distributions of the estimated thresholds provided reasonable values and demonstrated a coarsening mechanism involving the intermediate zone around the shoreline under alternating wave and wind actions as a result of which coarse sand was transported toward the seaward part of the backshore by large waves during storms and then toward the landward part by strong onshore winds. The 5‐year backshore coarsening is most certainly explained by repetition of short‐term coarsening mechanisms caused by wave‐induced sand transport occurring from the nearshore to the intermediate zone. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd     

Physical processes around a cuspate foreland:: implications to the evolution and long-term maintenance of a cape-associated shoal

Understanding across-margin transport has long been recognized as crucial for wise management of our coastline and shelf waters. Issues related to sewage outfalls, nutrient and pollutant dispersal, carbon export, and shoreline sediment budgets all require an understanding of these processes. Across-margin transport of water and sediment at cuspate foreland headlands has been largely unrecognized, and the processes responsible for this export unappreciated. We examined physical process on Cape Lookout Shoal, a cape-associated shoal on the North Carolina continental shelf, through numerical modeling and field observations of near-bottom currents. The cuspate foreland setting of the northern South Atlantic Bight has been previously characterized as wave-dominated with a principal alongshore directed sediment transport and physical circulation forced by wave and wind-driven currents along the inner and mid-shelf. Our findings instead suggest that a seaward-directed, tidal-driven headland flow many play a significant role in the direction of net sediment transport on the shoal and ultimately its location and long-term maintenance. The shoal's location relative to the promontory-induced residual eddies and the region of active deposition differs from traditionally held ideas on sedimentary processes at headland-related sand banks. In addition, the headland flows may also serve as a first-order mechanism for rapidly exporting nearshore and estuarine waters to the outer-shelf.