Wave-induced setup of the mean surface over a sloping beach

A new theoretical approach for the wave-induced setup over a sloping beach is presented that takes into consideration the explicit variations of the surface waves due to bottom slope and viscosity. In this way, the wave forcing of the mean Lagrangian volume fluxes is calculated without assuming that the local depth is constant. The analysis is valid in the region outside the surf zone and is based on the shallow-water assumption. A novel approach for separating the viscous damping of the waves from the frictional damping of the mean flow is introduced, where the mean Eulerian velocity is applied in the bottom stress for the mean fluxes. In the case where the onshore Lagrangian mean transport is zero, a new formula is derived for the Eulerian mean free surface slope, in which the effects of bottom slope, viscous wave damping and frictional bottom drag on the mean flow are clearly identified. The analysis suggests that viscous damping of the waves and frictional dissipation of the Eulerian near-bed return flow could lead to setup outside the surf zone.     

Low frequency edge waves over a trench-ridge topography adjoining a straight coastline

Abstract

The possible interaction of trapped midoceanic boundary waves with a nearby coastline is examined by considering a step trench-ridge topography adjoining a semi-infinite straight coastline. The full dispersion equation, including the effect of the earth's rotation, is derived for long waves over this topography. It is shown that the presence of the coastline begins to have a significant effect on the behaviour of quasigeostrophic ridge waves whenever the wave length is greater than three times the ridge coastline separation.

As an example, the dispersion curves are presented for the topography of the Heceta Bank off the coast of Oregon and it is conjectured that the presence of this off-shore ridge may provide an explanation for the anomalous direction of propagation of the 0.1 c.p.d. shelf wave reported by Mooers and Smith (1968).     

Seasonal variations in wave-induced stress over global ocean based on China France Oceanography Satellite

Due to the scarcity of simultaneous observations on global-scale wind and wave spectra, there has been limited research on the characteristics of global wave-induced stress and wind stress with wave effects using observed wave spectra, particularly their seasonal variations. The China France Oceanography Satellite(CFOSAT) for the first time can simultaneously observe global sea surface wind and wave spectra, providing a solid data basis for investigating this difficult issue. In this study, the ...     

Ultramafic blocks from the ocean floor southwest of Australia

Samples dredged from the ocean floor near the junction of the Naturaliste Fracture Zone and the Diamantina Zone, 300 km southwest of Cape Leeuwin, Western Australia, contain 3- to 10-cm blocks of Cr-spinel lherzolites and Al-spinel-olivine clinopyroxenites. Both assemblages show textural evidence for deformation and recrystallization, with extensive development of kaersutite in one clinopyroxenite. The blocks are enclosed by clay and Fe-Mn oxide-rich fragmental material, which also contains a diverse detrital mineral suite and microfossils.Diopsides in the lherzolites are Na- and Cr-rich, with marked similarities to those of lherzolite nodules in alkaline basaltic suites. The Al- and Ti-rich diopsides of the clinopyroxenites are more magnesium than those of common pyroxene-rich nodules. The lherzolites are interpreted as upper mantle residues, while the clinopyroxenites probably represent partly recrystallized cumulates from high-temperature basaltic magmas traversing the lherzolite mantle. Both are thought to have been derived from an ultramafic body emplaced into the shallow crust near the Cretaceous/early Tertiary continent-ocean boundary off Australia.     

Coherent variations of the obliquity components in global ice volume and ocean carbon reservoir over the past 5 Ma

The Milankovi theory stresses that the summer insolation in the high northern latitudes that is dominated by the precession cycle controls the glacial/interglacial cycles in global climate change.If the climate system responds linearly to the external insolation forcing,the precession cycle of 23 or 19 ka should dominate the variations in the climatic proxy records.I performed spectral and evolutive cross spectral analyses on the high resolution benthic 18O and 13C records from the South China Sea and the North Atlantic,the proxies of global ice volume and ocean carbon reservoir respectively.I found that the obliquity instead of the eccentricity or the precession is the most marked cycle in the global ice volume and ocean carbon reservoir variations over the past 5 Ma.The analysis further reveals that only at the obliquity band instead of the eccentricity or the precession band does the global ice volume and ocean carbon reservoir display consistently high coherency and stable phase relationship over the past 5 Ma.The consistently positive or near-zero phases of the benthic 18O relative to the benthic13C at the obliquity band suggest that the global carbon cycle is involved in the polar ice sheet growth as an important internal feedback,not a determinative driving factor.The obliquity instead of the precession or the eccentricity takes the dominant role of driving the global climate change during the Pliocene and Pleistocene.     

Echo intensity data as a directional antenna for observing processes above sloping ocean bottoms

Relative ‘echo intensity’ data (dI) from a bottom-mounted four-beam 300 kHz acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) are used to infer propagation of vigorous processes above a continental slope. The 3- to 60-m horizontal beam spread and the 2-Hz sampling allow the distinction of different arrival times t _i , i = 1,..., 4, at different distances in the acoustic beams from sharp changes in dI-content associated with frontal non-linear and turbulent bores or ‘waves’. The changes in dI are partially due to variations in amounts of resuspended material carried by the near-bottom turbulence and partially due to the fast variations in density stratification (‘stratified turbulence’), as inferred from 1-Hz sampled thermistor string data above the ADCP. Such bores are observed to pass the mooring up to 80 m above the bottom, having typical propagation speeds c = 0.15–0.5 m s⁻¹, as determined from dI(t _i ). Particle speeds in the immediate environment of a bore amount to |u|_env=c ± 0.05 m s⁻¹, the equality being a necessary condition for kinematic instability, whilst the maximum particle speeds amount |u|_max = 1.2–2c. The dI-determined directions of up-, down- and alongslope processes are all to within ±10° of the ADCP’s beam-spread averaged current (particle velocity) data.     

Chemical and isotopic study of extraterrestrial particles from the ocean floor

We report chemical, mineralogic and Rb-Sr data on deep-sea spherules and on particles from an Antarctic Ocean core in which an excess Ir content has been identified.⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr compositions in the deep-sea spherules are determined to 1–2‰ and are in the range 0.730–0.757. The⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr compositions and the Sr concentrations are in the range observed for the majority of chondritic meteorites.⁸⁴Sr/⁸⁸Sr ratios are normal to within 1%. Extreme depletion of Rb relative to the chondritic abundance is found in the deep-sea spherules. These data support the inference based on chemical composition and mineralogy that the deep-sea spherules are produced by the ablation or heating of meteoroids in the Earth's atmosphere with substantial loss of Rb by volatilization. Most terrestrial sources for the deep-sea spherules can be excluded, based on the chemical composition and on the Sr isotopic composition. The results on vesicular, Ir-rich particles from the Antarctic Ocean core give⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr in the range 0.703–0.705 and within the range observed for ocean island basalts but significantly above mid-ocean ridge basalts (MORB). A crystalline basaltic particle from this core shows non-radiogenic⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr= 0.701 ± 0.001, in the range observed for MORB and basaltic achondrites. The Sr data on the vesicular particles do not provide positive support for an extraterrestrial provenance for these materials. The basaltic particles cannot reasonably be the primary source of the high Ir concentration and some other lithic component remains to be identified.     

Magmatic gases extracted and analysed from ocean floor volcanics

Magmatic gases extracted and analysed from basaltic rocks collected in the FAMOUS area near 36°50′ N in the Atlantic ocean show that the total amount of gas included in the samples varies between about 500 ppm to 1600 ppm. The main gaseous phases included in the various types of basalts consist of CO₂ (270–700 ppm), CO (150–800 ppm), HCl (100–1000 ppm), H₂ (0–50 ppm), SO₂ (up to 175 ppm), N₂ (up to about 213 ppm) and traces of hydrocarbons (up to about 24 ppm). The relative amount of CO, CO₂ and SO₂ varies with both the degree of crystallinity of the rock and with fractional crystallization and/or fractional melting. The glassy margin of pillow lavas have a higher CO/CO₂ ratio than the more crystalline interior. The most fractionated rocks of the series rich in clinopyroxene are depleted in the CO/CO₂ ratio and have a higher SO₂ content than do the most mafic end members rich in olivine. Early-formed olivine was crystallized in a reducing environment rich in CO and H₂ with respect to later formed mineral associations. It is likely that the carbon and sulfur oxidation is taking place at a relatively shallow depth during magmatic ascent or during volcanism. The ocean floor volcanics when compared to subaerial basalts are depleted in SO₂ and have on the average ten times more H₂.     

Interpretation of a deep electromagnetic sounding of the ocean floor near the Californian coast

Amplitude and phase curves of magnetotelluric (MTS) and gradient magneto-variational (MVS) soundings in the period range 0.5–24 h obtained by Cox, Filloux and Larsen are interpreted. After some corrections the results of both kinds of sounding are practically the same. These results indicate high-conductivity oceanic asthenosphere at the 70–170-km depths.     

A forest floor model for heat and moisture including a litter layer

Forest soils are often covered with a litter that influences the rate of mass and energy transfer between the soil and the air above, thereby modifying the temperature and moisture fields in the soil. The presence of a litter should therefore be accounted for in forest SVAT models, especially when long-term simulations are to be performed. A heat and moisture litter model has been developed by adding two dynamical equations to a force-restore type soil model. The experimental data used for the model validation was collected in a pine forest canopy in the South-West of France, that was part of the Euroflux network. The model is tested and validated over a two-year period. It is shown to provide a fairly good simulation of soil and litter moisture, soil and litter temperature and turbulent fluxes measured above the forest floor. It is also shown that simulations without the litter layer are unable to reproduce all these variables simultaneously. We then perform a sensitivity analysis to the parameters whose values are either uncertain or likely to be variable in time and space, such as the litter thickness, the rainfall fraction intercepted by the litter or the maximum value of the surface resistance. A threshold value of the litter moisture used in the surface resistance parameterisation turns out to be the most critical parameter. Further work is needed to investigate the possible relationships between the various parameters describing the litter, but the present litter model can already be used in combination with other forest SVAT models.     

Geoelectromagnetic and geothermic investigations in the Ihlara Valley geothermal field

The Ihlara Valley is situated within a volcanic arc that is formed by the collision of the eastern Mediterranean plate system with the Anatolian plate. In this study we will present data from a reservoir monitoring project over the Ihlara-Ziga geothermal field, located 22 km east of Aksaray, in central Anatolia.Although identified geothermal resources in the Ihlara Valley are modest, substantial undiscovered fields have been inferred primarily from the volcanic and tectonic setting but also from the high regional heat flow (150–200 mWm⁻²) on the Kir ehir Massif.In 1988 and 1990, geoelectromagnetic surveys were undertaken by MTA-Ankara to confirm the presence of a relatively shallow (≈ 0.5–1 km), hydrothermally caused conductive layer or zone. CSAMT and Schlumberger resistivity data show good correspondence with each other, and 2-D geoelectric models are also in harmony with geologic data and gravity anomalies.The depth of the resistive basement, which is interpreted as Paleozoic limestone, is 200–250 m in the western part and increases eastward (≈ 600–750 m). This may imply N-S-oriented normal faulting within the survey area. The parameters of the top layer are a resistivity of 25 to 95 ohm m and a thickness of between 100 and 250 m. The thickness of the conductive tuffs between the top layer and the basement, whose resistivity is about 4–5 o hmm, also increases eastward (from 100 to 450 m). The apparent resistivity maps for the frequencies between 32 and 2 Hz reveal a localized low resistivity anomaly to the east of Belisirma.     

利用多年卫星测高资料研究南海上层环流季节特征

利用10年高精度卫星测高海面高异常网格资料,联合EGM96稳态海面地形模型,构成南海海域合成海面地形的时间序列,并计算了各个时期的南海表层地转流场. 利用卫星跟踪漂流浮标观测结果与相应时期南海地转流场进行对比验证,结果显示本文结果可以很好地反映南海海域一些中小尺度的环流特征. 根据南海各季节多年平均表层环流场结构,对南海环流周年变化规律和季节特征进行了初步的探讨. 研究结果表明,南海表层环流始终处在不断演变过程之中,在时间和空间上都表现出明显的多尺度特征.     

On barotropic and baroclinic tides over an arbitrary sloping topography

Some theoretical concepts about the frictionless dynamics of propagation of the barotropic tide over two-dimensional continental slopes of arbitrary shape are developed. A numerical procedure which generalizes the exact solution obtained over a rectilinear sloping topography is given. This technique can be applied to compute the harmonic components of the barotropic tide everywhere over sloping bottom contours of any shape. It permits in particular the avoidance of discontinuities at the boundaries of rectilinear-continental-slope profiles. The barotropic tidal results are used afterwards to calculate the barotropic forcing for the generation of internal tides. Numerical experiments are performed to study the interaction between the tide and some typical sloping topographies. A three-layered model is used for this purpose. Results are compared with those previously obtained over a rectilinear continental slope.     

The computation of the free barotropic oscillations of a global ocean model including friction and loading effects

A set of 61 normal modes with periods between 7.8 and 133.1 h has been calculated, using a 1° model of the global ocean, including the Arctic Ocean. The model explicitly considers frictional forces and ocean self-attraction and loading effects. The latter effects have generally been taken into account by parameterization, but for some modes the effects have also been considered fully. Due to friction, the computed eigenfrequencies are complex, exhibiting also the varying dissipative properties of the modes and their dependence on the distribution of potential and kinetic energies over the oceanic regions. In detail, gravity modes having periods less then 80 h and dominating the semi-diurnal and the diurnal tides, topographically controlled vorticity modes with periods longer than diurnal, and two planetary vorticity modes with periods of 96.8 and 119.4 h have been identified. These planetary vorticity modes have their energies distributed over Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, while the other modes with periods longer than 80 h, as vorticity modes, have their energies concentrated on topographic structures of restricted extension. The modes are discussed with respect to their wave properties, e.g., concerning quasi-standing-wave resonances and to the appearance of Kelvin waves of different orders and trapped by different coastlines. In particular, the relevance of specific modes for the development of the fields of the most important semi-diurnal and diurnal tidal constituents is investigated.     

联合卫星测高和模式资料研究海水热含量变化

本文在考虑洋底压力变化的情况下,利用2003~2008年融合多颗卫星的测高资料估计了全球和中国近海的海水热含量变化.顾及洋底压力(OBP)变化以及热膨胀系数随海水深度变化的影响,提出的改进方法提高了对中高纬度地区热含量变化的估算精度.在OBP变化较为明显的北太平洋区域I(30°N~50°N,170°E~190°E)、南印度洋区域II(40°S~60°S,100°E~120°E)和南太平洋区域III(40°S~60°S,100°W~120°W),改进方法的均方差较传统方法分别降低了16.3%、60.5%和48.4%.同时研究表明,卫星测高的精度以及盐度变化是影响中高纬度地区热含量估计精度的重要因素.在中国近海地区,东海和黄海的热含量主要表现为周年变化;南海区域的热含量除周年变化外,还存在半周年项和年际变化项,且南海的海水热含量近年有增加的趋势.     

Short-period fluctuations in the atmospheric electric field over the ocean

Fluctuations of short period in the atmospheric electric field were studied through the measurements of electric field and space charge density on the Mid-Pacific Ocean. The amplitude of fluctuation is about one third of the mean electric field, and the period mainly ranges from 2 to 5 min. The fluctuations are considered to be under the influence of spatial and temporal variation of space charge layer that possibly originates from the electrode effect above the sea surface. The unit of electrical irregularities in the atmosphere above the ocean has horizontal scale of the order of 1.5 km and indicates a tendency to become large as the wind speed increases. The vertical scale of space charge layer is estimated at several tens meters.     

南极冰盖物质平衡最新研究进展

探明南极冰盖物质平衡状况,对研究全球变暖背景下海平面变化具有重要意义,也是南极冰川学的重要基础工作.在ITASE计划(International Trans Antarctic Scientific Expedition)和ISMASS计划(Ice Sheet MassBalance and Sea Level)的指导下,各国科学家对南极几个主要流域进行了大范围的实地观测,获取了一些重要成果.此外,由于极地测高卫星和重力卫星的应用,南极冰盖整体物质平衡状况评估在近期得到长足发展.无论是实地研究还是卫星遥感,都有其局限性,两者结合可以弥补各自的缺陷,是未来研究的主要发展方向,但目前仍未引起足够的重视.因此,本文综述了南极冰盖物质平衡研究的最新研究进展,将有关研究分局域和洲际尺度进行了介绍,并对国内的研究提出建议.     

Coccolith chemistry reveals secular variations in the global ocean carbon cycle?

The mismatch between the 100 and 400 k.y. components of Pleistocene climate and the relative power of those terms from the eccentricity of the Earth's orbit remains a challenge to the Milankovitch hypothesis. Coccolithophores have the potential to respond to parameters of orbital forcing other than insolation, and, as a critical component of the ocean carbon cycle, can act to modify the climate response. The first direct comparison of coccolith fraction Sr/Ca, alkenone abundance and automated coccolithophore counts, shows that CF Sr/Ca is largely driven by changing production of bloom species, with unusually high Sr/Ca ratios. The periods of high CF Sr/Ca and high bloom production mark periods of high global coccolithophore production, which correlate inversely with the low amplitude 100 and higher amplitude 400 k.y. eccentricity orbital frequency. ∼ 400 k.y. cycles of coccolithophore bloom production correspond to periods of enhanced carbonate accumulation in some parts of the ocean, deep ocean dissolution in others, positive shifts in global ocean δ¹³C, and acmes of Gephyrocapsa caribbeanica and Emiliania huxleyi. The link between production of coccolithophore blooms and eccentricity may be due to orbital control of silica leakage from the Southern Ocean, to the orbitally defined inverse correlation between insolation and growing season length and the asymptotic growth response to these parameters, or to changes in nutrient input from weathering. During the Pleistocene, the eccentricity induced coccolithophore acmes have no apparent influence on atmospheric carbon dioxide (pCO₂) due to the shift towards small bloom coccolithophores, or to coupling with increased diatom productivity, or the ballast effect of the calcium carbonate rain, such that Pleistocene climate has no significant variance at the largest amplitude eccentricity forcing of 400 k.y. Coccolithophores and their influence on the carbon cycle may act as a filter between the incident orbital forcing and resultant climate.     

Oblique surface wave propagation over a small undulation on the bottom of an ocean

The problem of oblique water wave diffraction by small undulation of the bottom of a laterally unbounded ocean is considered using linear water wave theory. A perturbation analysis is employed to obtain the velocity potential, the reflection and the transmission coefficients up to the first order in terms of integrals involving the shape functions c(x) representing the bottom undulation. Finite cosine transform is used to find the first order potential, and this potential is utilised in obtaining the first order reflection and transmission coefficients. Some particular forms of the shape function representing an exponentially damped undulation, a single hump and a patch of sinusoidal ripples are considered and the integrals for the reflection and transmission coefficients are evaluated. For the exponentially damped undulation, it is observed that the reflection ceases much before transmission while for the single hump, reflection and transmission go hand in hand up to a certain value of the wavenumber, after which they vanish. For the patch of sinusoidal ripples having the same wavenumber, the reflection coefficient up to the first order is found to be an oscillatory function in the quotient of twice the component of the wavenumber along x-axis and the ripple wavenumber. When this quotient becomes one, the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and free surface, and the reflection coefficient becomes a multiple of the number of ripples. High reflection of the incident wave energy occurs if this number is large. Also, when a patch of ripples having different wavenumbers is considered the same result follows. Known results for the normal incidence are recovered as special cases for the patch of sinusoidal ripples. The theoretical observations are shown computationally.