Morphodynamic behaviour of a mixed sand–gravel ebb-tidal delta: Deben estuary,Suffolk, UK

The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 10⁶ m³ and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m². Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 10³ m³ yr^− 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes.     

A flood-dominated mesotidal inlet

Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier.     

A flood-dominated mesotidal inlet

Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier.     

Stratigraphic models for microtidal tidal deltas; examples from the Florida Gulf coast

Extensive vibracoring of both flood- and ebb-tidal deltas along the central Gulf Coast of the Florida peninsula reveals a strong overall similarity with subtle distinctions between flood and ebb varieties. Although the coast in question is microtidal, the inlets range from tide-dominated to distinctly wave-dominated. Both types of tidal deltas overlie a muddy sand interpreted to have been deposited in a back-barrier environment. The sharp contact at the base of the tidal delta sequence is typically overlain by a thin shell gravel layer. The ebb-tidal delta sequence is characterized by fine quartz sand with shell gravel in various concentrations; coarse and massive at the margins of the main ebb channel, and finer and imbricated at the marginal flood channels. The flood-tidal deltas are characterized by the same facies but with a small amount of mud. Shelly facies on the channels on flood deltas are not as well developed as on the ebb deltas. The combination of the stratigraphic sequence and the lithofacies make tidal deltas readily identifiable in the ancient record. The differences between flood and ebb varieties are subtle but consistent.     

Sequence of facies at a Holocene storm-dominated regressive barrier at Praia de Leste,southern Brazil

Along the coast at Praia de Leste, southern Brazil (25° 41’ S latitude), a positive sedimentary budget and a lowering of the sea level following the postglacial maximum has given rise to a progradational strandplain barrier that is 3–5 km wide. Sand quarries that lie 3.5 km from the present-day coastline have provided material from exceptional outcrops of 75% of the sequence of Holocene barrier facies. Five facies associations have been identified, which correspond to the inner shelf, the lower, middle and upper shorefaces, and the foreshore. The architecture of the facies shows a regressive sequence that overlies an erosional surface and downlapping Pleistocene sediments. At Praia de Leste, the facies association has a thickness of 14 m and is deposited between 2 m above and 12 m below mean paleo sea level. The barrier corresponds to a coastal environment that is characterised by medium to low wave energy under the additional influence of episodic storm events. The sequence at the Praia de Leste barrier differs from the sequence of clastic shoreline facies found elsewhere in two main ways. The first difference is the high content of fine sediment and plant debris, released at around the same time as the formation of the barrier from large estuarine systems, and the second is the predominance on the middle and lower shorefaces of swaley cross-stratified sand facies with abundant plant debris. We also describe two further characteristics of the barrier at Praia de Leste. First, the swaley cross-stratified sand represents a component of onshore transport that resulted in the accumulation of sediment transported from the shelf. Second, the beach step has been well preserved, thereby allowing the continuous tracing of seaward-dipping, low-angle cross-stratification to a sigmoidal cross-stratified beach-step sandy facies. Finally, we have herein been able to improve the precision of the sequence of formation of the depth of the facies, by making reference to paleo sea level during the formation of the barrier, rather than to present-day mean sea level.     

Fluxes and exchange of suspended sediment in tidal inlets draining a degraded mangrove forest in Kenya

This study focuses on sediment exchange in the degraded Mwache mangrove forest wetland located in southern Kenya. It involved measurement of total and particulate organic suspended sediment concentrations (TSSC and POSC), tidal water elevation and current velocities. Results showed that in the heavily degraded backwater zone mangrove forest, the ebb and flood tide total sediment fluxes were of same order of magnitude, however, flood tide sediment fluxes were slightly higher than the ebb ones. In the moderately degraded frontwater zone mangrove forest, the flood tide sediment fluxes were more than 50% higher than the ebb tide fluxes. The peak net sedimentation in the highly degraded backwater zone was 4 g m⁻² tide⁻¹ but that in the moderately degraded frontwater zone was 63 g m⁻² tide⁻¹. In the frontwater zone of the mangrove forest, the peak instantaneous ebb tide sediment flux was 3206 kg tide⁻¹ equivalent to 35.6 g m⁻² tide⁻¹ and the flood one 8574 kg tide⁻¹ (95 g m⁻² tide⁻¹). The peak instantaneous flood and ebb tide particulate organic sediment (POS) fluxes in the frontwater zone mangrove forest were 1316 kg tide⁻¹ (15 g m⁻² tide⁻¹) and 587 kg tide⁻¹ (6.5 g m⁻² tide⁻¹), respectively. The peak ebb and flood tide sediment fluxes in the backwater mangrove forest were 3206 kg tide⁻¹ (36 g m⁻² tide⁻¹) and 3305 kg tide⁻¹ (36.7 g m⁻² tide⁻¹), respectively. In case of POS fluxes in the backwater zone mangrove forest, the peak flood period POS flux was 969 kg tide⁻¹ (10.7 g m⁻² tide⁻¹) while the ebb period one was 484 kg tide⁻¹ (5.4 g m⁻² tide⁻¹). In both highly degraded backwater and moderately degraded frontwater zone of the mangrove forest, there is net import of sediments. However, the net import is relatively lower in the backwater zone forest where the trapping efficiency is 27%. In the moderately degraded frontwater zone of the mangrove forest, the sediment trapping efficiency is 65%. The net sediment import occurs mainly in periods of high river discharge in both neap and spring tides, but occurs only in spring tides during dry season. The net accretion rates in the backwater and frontwater zone mangrove forests are 0.25 and 3.5 cm year⁻¹, respectively.     

Atmospheric nitrogen deposition to the Mullica River-Great Bay Estuary

Measurements of nitrate and ammonium in precipitation and associated with aerosols were conducted at Rutgers University Marine Field Station in Tuckerton, New Jersey from March 2004 to March 2005 to characterize atmospheric nitrogen deposition to the Mullica River-Great Bay Estuary. The arithmetic means of nitrate and ammonium concentrations for precipitation samples were 2.3 mg L⁻¹ and 0.42 mg L⁻¹, respectively. Nitrate and ammonium concentrations in aerosol samples averaged 3.7 μg m⁻³ and 1.6 μg m⁻³, respectively. Wet deposition rates appeared to vary with season; the highest rate of inorganic nitrogen deposition (nitrate + ammonium) occurred in the spring with an average value of 1.33 kg-N ha⁻² month⁻¹. On an annual basis, the total (wet and dry) direct atmospheric deposition fluxes into the Mullica River-Great Bay Estuary were 7.08 kg-N ha⁻² year⁻¹ for nitrate and 4.44 kg-N ha⁻² year⁻¹ for ammonium. The total atmospheric inorganic nitrogen directly deposited to the Mullica River-Great Bay Estuary was estimated to be 4.79 × 10⁴ kg-N year⁻¹, and the total atmospheric inorganic nitrogen deposited to the Mullica River watershed was estimated to be 1.69 × 10⁶ kg-N year⁻¹. Only a fraction of the nitrogen deposited on the watershed will actually reach the estuary; most of the nitrogen will be retained in the watershed due to utilization and denitrification during transport. The amount of N reaching the Mullica River-Great Bay Estuary indirectly is estimated to be 5.07 × 10⁴ kg-N year⁻¹, approximately 97% is retained within the watershed. This atmospheric nitrogen deposition may stimulate phytoplankton productivity in the Mullica River-Great Bay ecosystem.     

Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

Population ecology and habitat preferences of juvenile flounder Platichthys flesus (Actinopterygii: Pleuronectidae) in a temperate estuary

The European flounder Platichthys flesus is a widely distributed epibenthic species and an important component of demersal fish assemblages in the European Atlantic coastal waters. In Portuguese estuaries, this species reaches high densities, especially in Minho estuary (NW Iberian Peninsula, Europe), potentially playing an important role in the system's ecology. In this context, the population structure, production and the habitat use of juvenile P. flesus were investigated. Sampling took place monthly, from February 2009 until July 2010 along the entire estuarine gradient (5 sampling stations distributed in the first 29 km from the river mouth, with S1 located near the river mouth, S2 inside a salt marsh, S3 in a salinity transition zone, while S4 and S5 were located in the upper estuary). Flounder's density varied significantly among sampling stations and seasons (two-way PERMANOVA: p < 0.001), with the majority of the individuals being found during the spring (30.1%) and in S3 and S4 (72.6%). Males and females presented an even distribution, with a higher proportion of males observed during summer. Fish length also differed among sampling stations and seasons (two-way PERMANOVA: p < 0.001), with larger fishes being found in S1 during the autumn (168.50 ± 59.50 mm) and the smallest in S4 during the spring (33.80 ± 3.12 mm). Size classes associated differently with environmental variables, with larger juveniles being more abundant in the downstream areas of the estuary, whereas smaller juveniles were related to higher water temperatures, suggesting a habitat segregation of P. flesus of different sizes. The fish condition of P. flesus in Minho estuary was higher than in other systems, probably due to the dominance of juveniles on the population. Also, the densities found in this estuary were up to 32 times higher than in other locations, suggesting that Minho estuary is an important nursery area for the species. The estimated secondary production of P. flesus was lower than previous studies acknowledged in the system (0.037 g.WWm^− 2.year^− 1), indicating that the production estimates of this species in estuaries can vary considerably depending on of several factors such as the sampling year and strategy, population and fish size.     

Distribution and transport of suspended sediments off the Yellow River (Huanghe) mouth and the nearby Bohai Sea

Hydrological and sedimentological investigations were carried out off the Yellow River (Huanghe) mouth and the nearby Bohai Sea during August–September 2007 to examine the distribution and transport of suspended sediments. Our data witnessed that suspended sediments from the Yellow River mouth primarily extend southerly and southeasterly during the flood season. High suspended sediment concentration (SSC) occurs as turbid plume on both sides of the river mouth, where it can reach >20 mg l^?1 in the surface water and >40 mg l^?1 in the bottom water. Accordingly, salinity varies from 25 to 29 psu, mean grain size (Dmz) is >200 μm, and volume concentration (VC) is >100 μl l^?1. High SSC was concentrated in the river mouth area as two muddy patches, i.e. the North Mud and South Mud, consisting mostly of fine-grained silt and clayey silt sediments. Our results have verified the larger extent of the South Mud than that of the North one, implicating south- and southeastward sediment dispersal paths that prevail near the river mouth area. The existing anti-clockwise and clockwise flows in the river mouth area were synthesized as the major hydrodynamics responsible for forming the two muddy patches. Tidal and residual currents are considered as the key hydrodynamic factors controlling the sediment distribution and transport in the region.     

Wave–current interaction in a river and wave dominant estuary: A seasonal contrast

The dynamic feature of the Modaomen Estuary (ME) in the Pearl River Delta in southern China has been the subject of extensive research. In previous studies, wave–current interaction (WCI) was often neglected due to its complexity. This study uses a coupled hydrodynamic module TELEMAC-2D and wave propagation module TOMAWAC in the TELEMAC-Mascaret modeling system to quantify the effects of WCI on the hydrodynamics in the ME. The coupled wave and current modeling system was well validated against the field measurements at selected locations. The model results show that WCI varies with the seasonal change in runoff in the ME. The effect of waves on the currents is insignificant during the wet season with a current change of no more than 0.07 m/s; but, in contrast, the currents have a noticeable effect on waves. However, during the dry season, the interactions of waves and currents on each other are found to be equally significant. When wave model and current model are coupled, the velocity could increase up to a maximum of 0.30 m/s and decrease up to a maximum of 0.17 m/s. WCI is greatly affected by the propagation directions of wave and current in both seasons. Generally, wave height decreases and current increases for a following wave and current; wave height increases and current decreases for an opposing wave and current. The effects of waves on currents change with the tide. Changes are larger during neap tide than during spring tide, and stronger during ebb tide than during flood tide.     

Drowned coralline algal dominated deposits off Lanai,Hawaii; carbonate accretion and vertical tectonics over the last 30 ka

We present detailed bathymetry, remotely operated vehicle (ROV) and submersible observations, and sedimentary and radiocarbon age data from carbonate deposits recovered from two submerged terraces at − 150 m (T1) and − 230 m (T2) off Lanai, Hawaii. The tops of the terraces are veneered by relatively thin (< 5 m) in situ accumulations of coralline algal nodule, coralgal nodule, Halimeda and a derived oolitic facies deposited in intermediate (30–60 m) to deep fore-reef slope settings (60–120 m). The data are used to develop a sedimentary facies model that is consistent with eustatic sea-level variations over the last 30 ka. Both nodule facies on T1 and T2 initiated growth 30–29 ka following a fall in sea level of ∼50 m and increase in bottom currents during the transition from Marine Isotope Stage 3 to 2. The nodules accreted slowly throughout the Last Glacial Maximum when sea-level was relatively stable. Drowning occurred during the early deglaciation (17–16 ka) and was marked by the complete drowning of coralline algal nodules facies on T2 and incipient drowning of coralgal facies on T1. Abrupt sea-level rise during the middle deglaciation, perhaps associated with global meltwater pulse 1A (14–15 ka), finally drowned the coralgal facies on T1, which in turn was overlain by a deep-water Halimeda facies or an oolitic facies derived from upslope. Our data indicates that Lanai has experienced relatively little vertical tectonic movement over the last 30 ka. Using paleobathymetric data derived from the sedimentary facies, age vs. depth relationships, and published sea-level curves, we estimate that Lanai could be either slowly uplifting or subsiding, but at rates < 0.1 m/kyr (uplift) or < 0.4 m/kyr (subsidence) over this 30 kyr period.     

Fish settlement in the ocean vs. estuary: Comparison of pelagic larval and settled juvenile composition and abundance from southern New Jersey,U.S.A.

To describe the larval and juvenile fish fauna and to evaluate the relative contribution of the ocean and the estuary as settlement areas for benthic species, we compared the composition and abundance of larval fish supply to that of recently settled juvenile fishes in both ocean and an adjacent estuary habitats in southern New Jersey. The study was conducted from May to November 1992 in the Great Bay–Little Egg Harbor estuary (<1–8 m sampling depth) and on the adjacent inner continental shelf in the vicinity of Beach Haven Ridge (8–16 m). During the study more larvae nearing settlement (postflexion) were captured in the estuary than in the ocean. Settlement occurred earlier in the estuary than in the ocean perhaps under the influence of earlier, seasonal warming of estuarine waters. There appeared to be two spatial patterns of settlement in the study area based on the dominant species (n = 17) represented by a sufficient number of individuals (n ≥ 25 individuals). There were species that primarily settle in the estuary, as represented by both estuarine residents (n = 3) and transients (n = 4), and those that settle in both the estuary and the ocean (n = 10). However, there were no species whose larvae were present in the estuary yet settle in the ocean. The fact that many of the species settle in both the estuary and the ocean indicates an overlap between these habitats because, at least for some species, these habitats may function in the same way. Further resolution of fish settlement patterns, and its influence on recruitment will need to rely on synoptic comparisons between estuaries and the ocean over multiple years.     

The ebb-tidal delta model of shoreface ridge origin and evolution: Appraisal and applicability along the southern North Sea barrier island coast—a discussion

The ebb-tidal delta model of McBride and Moslow is the most comprehensive on the morphogenesis and distribution of shoreface ridges along the US Atlantic seaboard to date. This discussion evaluates the applicability of the above model to the southern North Sea barrier island coast. Results indicate that the characteristics of the North Sea shoreface-connected ridge sediments display a genetic relationship with those of the inlet ebb delta as implied by the ebb-tidal model. By contrast, ridge orientation is not well accounted for by lateral inlet migration and shoreline recession as suggested by the model. A possible reason for the aforementioned discrepancy is discussed.     

Actinian dominated intertidal mudflats: A new case of an extraordinary rare phenomenon from Southern Chile

Generally, estuarine intertidal mudflats constitute important nurseries for fish and foraging grounds for coastal birds by providing a plenitude of mollusks, worms, and crustaceans as prey, which in turn mostly feed on suspended and benthic microalgae, bacteria, and detritus. Despite the high productivity of such habitats, pronounced variability in both salinity and temperature results typically in low diversity. The only sea anemone reported from estuarine mud is the edwardsiid Nematostella vectensis Stephenson, 1935. It occurs widely in the northern hemisphere, and occasionally in extremely high density. Here we document another sea anemone from estuarine mud and muddy sand found in Southern Chile which has similar ecological attributes. Taxonomic confusion has impeded the reporting on this small but prominent member in a macrozoobenthic assemblage, the brooding Anthopleura hermaphroditica (Carlgren, 1899; Anthozoa: Actiniidae). It differs from N. vectensis by the presence of symbiotic algae. Average density under poly- to euhaline conditions in mud and muddy sand at around mid tide level was about 3 actinians per cm². An average abundance of 11,000 m^? 2, a biovolume of 487 cm³ m^? 2, and a biomass of 35.5 g dry organic weight m^? 2 were found in mud and muddy sand in two surveys 20 years apart. The mean fishing area of fully expanded individuals covers 42 ± 25 mm², corresponding to a circular area with a diameter of 7.3 ± 5.7 mm. Preliminary experiments indicate that associated benthos may be relegated to life below surface by the net of tentacles above the sediment. As no predators on A. hermaphroditica could be found on the mudflat, the success of this mixotrophic sea anemone may entail a trophic dead end.     

Carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide photoproduction quantum yields in the Delaware Estuary

Photochemical mineralization of dissolved organic matter (DOM) plays an important role in the cycling of carbon in estuarine systems. A key to modeling this process is knowledge of apparent quantum yields (AQYs) for the photochemical products. Here we determined spectral AQYs for carbon dioxide (CO₂) and carbon monoxide (CO), the main products of DOM photomineralization, along the main axis of the Delaware Estuary. Apparent quantum yields for CO₂ photoproduction were determined shipboard using a multi-spectral irradiation system. Carbon monoxide AQYs were determined in stored samples by employing a narrow band spectral irradiation system. A single AQY spectrum described carbon dioxide photochemical production within the estuary whereas CO AQY spectra varied with salinity, suggesting different precursors and mechanisms for the production of these two species. CO₂ AQYs were used along with shipboard measurements of DOM absorbance and solar irradiance to calculate photoproduction rates. Calculated CO₂ photoproduction rates agreed with directly measured rates (2 to 4 μM CO₂ d^? 1) within experimental error, supporting the further development and use of AQYs to calculate regional-scale photochemical fluxes.     

Inter-cohort differences in spatial and temporal settlement patterns of young-of-the-year windowpane (Scophthalmus aquosus) in southern New Jersey

The timing and location of settlement of two cohorts (spring and fall) of windowpane (Scophthalmus aquosus) were identified based on collections from 64 sampling locations along a corridor from the lower estuary, through the inlet, and on to the adjacent inner continental shelf in southern New Jersey. Spatio-temporal patterns of settlement during 1989–1998 were determined based on capture location and timing, and eye migration stage. Spring-spawned windowpanes were collected in estuarine, inlet and ocean habitats as larvae, during settlement, and after settlement. Densities of spring-spawned larvae (∼2–10 mm standard length (SL)) peaked in May in all habitats (estuary, inlet, and ocean). Initial settlement of spring-spawned windowpane occurred during May in the inlet and ocean when fish had grown to ∼7–8 mm SL (mid-point of eye migration), but fish did not appear in demersal estuarine collections until June when they were larger and more developmentally advanced (∼24–32 mm SL; post-eye migration). A transitional settlement period, comprised of a progressive habitat shift from pelagic to demersal habitats, is proposed for the spring cohort to explain the observed patterns. Fall-spawned fish of all developmental stages and sizes were virtually absent from estuarine collections. Fall-spawned larval (∼2–10 mm SL) densities peaked in October in inlet and ocean habitats and fish began settling there during the same month at sizes similar to the spring cohort (∼7–8 mm SL). This research confirms that there are important cohort-specific and life-stage dependent differences in young-of-the-year (YOY) windowpane habitat use in southern New Jersey and perhaps in other east coast US estuaries. These differences may affect the overall contribution that each cohort makes to a given year class and thus, may have an important role in determining the recruitment dynamics of this species.     

Short-term variation in behavior of allochthonous particulate organic matter accompanying changes of river discharge in Ise Bay,Japan

The composition and behavior of allochthonous particulate organic matter (POM) in the northern part of Ise Bay, Japan were investigated to elucidate the short-term variation in POM accompanying changes in river discharge. The behavior of POM was significantly regulated by hydrographic conditions, but behavior was different in the upper layer versus the middle and lower layers. The former showed simple dynamics controlled by the river plume, while the latter showed complex dynamics because of changes in river discharge and subsequent variation in estuarine circulation. During normal discharge, the contribution of riverine materials to POC in the surface water within the bay was negligible because most riverine organic matter is deposited before flowing into the bay. During high discharge, on the other hand, the contribution of riverine organic matter to total POM increased to 50% at ∼10 km from the river mouth. Though riverine organic matter loads increased, the total amount of POC decreased around the river mouth due to flushing of phytoplankton. After river discharge, the contribution decreased rapidly.The behavior of POM in the middle and lower layers differed from that in the surface layer. At normal discharge, the influence of riverine organic matter was weak. During high discharge, high flooding temporarily weakened the bottom inflow, resulting in heavier riverine organic matter distributed from the river mouth to mid regions within the bay in the lower layer. The maximum contribution of riverine organic matter to total POM was estimated to be ∼60% around 25 km from the river mouth. After high discharge, riverine POM in the lower layer was pushed to the bay head by enhanced estuarine circulation and was uplifted to the middle layer. The behavior of riverine POM dynamically changed in relation to river discharge, and exerted a significant influence on bottom water conditions in the bay.     

Estimating extreme water levels with long-term data by GEV distribution at Wusong station near Shanghai city in Yangtze Estuary

In this study, a 91-year data set at the Wusong Station near Shanghai City in Yangtze Estuary has been used to estimate the 100-year Annual Maximum Water Level (AMWL). The performances of four common distribution models have been evaluated. The GEV model provides the best estimates of an AMWL. It results in the minimum difference (0.04 m) compared to the observed 92-year AMWL, with the high correlation coefficient (0.99) and minimum root-mean-square-error (0.045 m) value. Predictions from other distribution models cause non-negligible deviations, underestimating the 92-year AMWL by 0.57, 0.38, and 0.15 m for Weibell, Lognormal, and Gumbel distribution models, respectively. In order to examine the effects of a shorter data set, a 59-year data set was investigated. Model predictions using 59-year data set underestimates the observed 60-year AMWLs. By comparing to the 100-year AMWL estimated by the GEV distribution, using the 91-year data set, results using the shorter 59-year data set lead to underestimates of the 100-year AMWL by 0.78 m for Weibull, 0.58 m for Lognormal, 0.38 m for Gumbel, and 0.39 m for GEV distributions. Therefore, one should be cautious when estimating the 100-year AMWL if the data set covers a period much shorter than 100 years. Selecting an appropriate distribution model can improve prediction accuracy.     

Anthropogenic influences on shoreline and nearshore evolution in the San Francisco Bay coastal system

Analysis of four historical bathymetric surveys over a 132-year period has revealed significant changes to the morphology of the San Francisco Bar, an ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of San Francisco Bay estuary. From 1873 to 2005 the San Francisco Bar vertically-eroded an average of 80 cm over a 125 km² area, which equates to a total volume loss of 100 ± 52 million m³ of fine- to coarse-grained sand. Comparison of the surveys indicates the entire ebb-tidal delta contracted radially, with the crest moving landward an average of 1 km. Long-term erosion of the ebb-tidal delta is hypothesized to be due to a reduction in the tidal prism of San Francisco Bay and a decrease in coastal sediment supply, both as a result of anthropogenic activities. Prior research indicates that the tidal prism of the estuary was reduced by 9% from filling, diking, and sedimentation. Compilation of historical records dating back to 1900 reveals that a minimum of 200 million m³ of sediment has been permanently removed from the San Francisco Bay coastal system through dredging, aggregate mining, and borrow pit mining. Of this total, ∼54 million m³ of sand-sized or coarser sediment was removed from central San Francisco Bay. With grain sizes comparable to the ebb-tidal delta, and its direct connection to the bay mouth, removal of sediments from central San Francisco Bay may limit the sand supply to the delta and open coast beaches.