珊瑚礁海岸波流运动特性整体物理模型实验研究

根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁-潟湖-裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征.结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7％,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9％,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势...     

波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流分布及阻力特性试验

本文通过物理模型试验研究了波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流的分布特征以及阻力特性,分析了典型波浪工况下无潮流、正向潮流和反向潮流分别作用下平均流速、摩阻流速、阻力系数的沿礁变化规律。结果表明：无潮流时礁前斜坡及外礁坪上存在海底回流且在礁缘附近回流最强,在礁坪上冠层附近平均流表现为向岸流,且该流沿礁向海岸方向持续增大。相较于无潮流时,正向潮流作用下冠层内外均为向岸流,在礁坪上冠层内外的向岸流显著增大;反向潮流作用下冠层内外均为离岸流且在礁缘处达到最大,该离岸流在礁坪上逐渐减小然后趋于稳定。无潮流时礁坪上摩阻流速呈小幅波动;相较于无潮流时,正向潮流、反向潮流影响下礁坪上摩阻流速显著增大,其中正向潮流影响下增幅更大;无潮流时礁坪上水力粗糙度沿礁减小,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下水力粗糙度普遍有幅度不等的增加。三种工况下礁坪上的阻力系数均沿礁整体呈下降趋势,相较于无潮流时,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下礁坪上的阻力系数显著增大,且正向潮流作用时增幅更大。     

Suspended matter transport in coral reef waters of the Abrolhos Bank, Brazil

The coral reef system of the Abrolhos Bank, Brazil, is located between 10 and 65 km off the coast. Suspended particulate matter between the coast and the inner arc of the reef was mainly composed of kaolinite clay and reworked fossil carbonate fragments, resuspended from nearshore shoals. Strong permanent and tidal alongshore currents in the nearshore channel together with the geomorphological configuration of the inner arc formed an efficient hydrodynamic and topographic barrier to offshore transport of land-derived material. Most of the material was being transported alongshore. Suspended particulate matter between the inner and outer arcs was dominated by carbonate shells, coral fragments, and needle-shaped biogenic opal, and the reef system was in large part being dominated by the oligotrophic waters of the Brazil Current.     

An Analytical Solution for Nearshore Circulation Driven by Focused/Defocused Waves

An offshore shoal or bar refracts ocean surface waves and causes wave focusing/defocusing on the adjacent beach.Wave focal patterns characterized by alongshore variations in wave height, wave angle, and breaking location induce alongshore non-uniformities of wave setup and nearshore circulation, e.g., rip currents and alongshore currents, in the surfzone. A simplified analytic model for nearshore circulation generated by focused/defocused waves on a planar beach is developed and theoretical solutions are obtained using transport stream function and perturbations in alongshore distributions of wave height and wave angle at the breaker line. The analytic model suggests that alongshore currents are strongly affected by a pair of counter-rotating vortices generated shoreward of the wave focal zone. The vortices are persistent, and their strengths depend on the amplitudes of alongshore variations in wave height and wave angle. The alongshore gradient in wave height tends to intensify the vortices while the convergence of wave angle tends to weaken the vortices. Divergent flows associated with the vortices in the surfzone are intense,strengthening alongshore currents in the downstream of the wave focal zone and weakening alongshore currents or causing flows reversal in the upstream. Alongshore currents are modulated by rip currents associated with the wave focusing/defocusing patterns.     

2D Wave setup behind submerged breakwaters

In addition to reducing the incoming wave energy, submerged breakwaters also cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area, which is relevant to the whole shadow zone circulation, including alongshore currents and seaward flows through the gaps. This study examines such a leading hydraulic parameter under the simplified hypothesis of 2D motion and presents a prediction model that has been validated by a wide ensemble of experimental data. Starting from an approach originally proposed by Dalrymple and Dean [(1971). Piling-up behind low and submerged permeable breakwaters. Discussion note on Diskin et al. (1970). Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division WW2, 423–427], the model splits the rise of the mean water level into two contributions: one is due to the momentum flux release forced by wave breaking on the structure, and the other is associated with the mass transport process. For the first time, the case of random wave trains has been explicitly considered.     

Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

粤东及闽南近岸上升流对局地风场变化的响应

本文利用2010年6-7月的实测温盐、水位、海流等资料,结合风场数据,讨论了在台风影响较小的情况下,粤东及闽南近岸上升流对局地风场变化的响应特征,主要结论如下:（1）谱分析结果显示,沿岸风、水位、海流、近底层水温均具有3.5～4.0 d、5.0～5.5 d、8.3～9.0 d的波动周期,沿岸风的变化引起上升流强度在3～9 d周期上的波动;（2）上升流对局地风场变化的响应过程如下:利于上升流产生的局地风场发生变化时,沿岸风作用下产生的Ekman输运促使的上升流区水位的下降幅度发生改变,随即向岸方向的压强梯度力也发生变化,进而导致沿岸流及近底层向岸流的增强或减弱,而近底层向岸流强度的改变又会引起近底层水温的变化;（3）相关分析及交叉谱分析的结果表明,沿岸风的变化将在3 d以内影响上升流区近底层水温。以34 m向岸流代表近底层向岸流,则“沿岸风-水位-近底层向岸流-近底层水温”这一过程的响应时间依次为24 h、7 h、27 h左右。     

Circulation

Low-frequency current and temperature variability on the southeast US continental shelf during summer conditions of weak wind forcing and vertical stratification was found to be similar in many aspects to previous findings for winter, when stronger wind forcing and vertical homogeneity prevails. Subtidal variability in the outer shelf is dominated by the weekly occurrence of Gulf Stream frontal eddies and meanders. These baroclinic events strongly affect the balance of momentum in the outer shelf, but not at mid-shelf. A negative alongshore sea level slope of order −10⁻⁷ is required to balance mean along-shelf momentum at the shelf edge, similar to oceanic estimates, and can contribute to the observed northward mean flow over the shelf.Low-frequency flow at mid-shelf and coastal sea level fluctuations appear to occur as a forced wave response to local alongshore wind stress events that are coherent over the shelf domain. Momentum balances indicate a trapped wave response similar to the arrested topographic wave found in the mid-Atlantic Bight (CSANADY, 1978). Density driven currents from river discharge do not appear to be significant at mid-shelf. Cold, subsurface intrusions of deeper, nutrient rich Gulf Stream waters can occasionally penetrate to mid- and inner-shelf regions north of Cape Canaveral, causing strong phytoplankton and zooplankton responses. These events were observed following the simultaneous occurrence of upwellings from northward winds and Gulf Stream frontal eddies at the shelf break during periods when the Stream was in an onshore position. Subsurface Gulf Stream intrusions to mid-shelf occur only during the summer, when the shelf is vertically stratified and cross-shelf density gradients do not present a barrier as in winter.     

Circulation and multiple-scale variability in the Southern California Bight

The oceanic circulation in the Southern California Bight (SCB) is influenced by the large-scale California Current offshore, tropical remote forcing through the coastal wave guide alongshore, and local atmospheric forcing. The region is characterized by local complexity in the topography and coastline. All these factors engender variability in the circulation on interannual, seasonal, and intraseasonal time scales. This study applies the Regional Oceanic Modeling System (ROMS) to the SCB circulation and its multiple-scale variability. The model is configured in three levels of nested grids with the parent grid covering the whole US West Coast. The first child grid covers a large southern domain, and the third grid zooms in on the SCB region. The three horizontal grid resolutions are 20 km, 6.7 km, and 1 km, respectively. The external forcings are momentum, heat, and freshwater flux at the surface and adaptive nudging to gyre-scale SODA reanalysis fields at the boundaries. The momentum flux is from a three-hourly reanalysis mesoscale MM5 wind with a 6 km resolution for the finest grid in the SCB. The oceanic model starts in an equilibrium state from a multiple-year cyclical climatology run, and then it is integrated from years 1996 through 2003. In this paper, the 8-year simulation at the 1 km resolution is analyzed and assessed against extensive observational data: High-Frequency (HF) radar data, current meters, Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP) data, hydrographic measurements, tide gauges, drifters, altimeters, and radiometers. The simulation shows that the domain-scale surface circulation in the SCB is characterized by the Southern California Cyclonic Gyre, comprised of the offshore equatorward California Current System and the onshore poleward Southern California Countercurrent. The simulation also exhibits three subdomain-scale, persistent (i.e., standing), cyclonic eddies related to the local topography and wind forcing: the Santa Barbara Channel Eddy, the Central-SCB Eddy, and the Catalina-Clemente Eddy. Comparisons with observational data reveal that ROMS reproduces a realistic mean state of the SCB oceanic circulation, as well as its interannual (mainly as a local manifestation of an ENSO event), seasonal, and intraseasonal (eddy-scale) variations. We find high correlations of the wind curl with both the alongshore pressure gradient (APG) and the eddy kinetic energy level in their variations on time scales of seasons and longer. The geostrophic currents are much stronger than the wind-driven Ekman flows at the surface. The model exhibits intrinsic eddy variability with strong topographically related heterogeneity, westward-propagating Rossby waves, and poleward-propagating coastally-trapped waves (albeit with smaller amplitude than observed due to missing high-frequency variations in the southern boundary conditions).     

Modeling wave�Ccurrent bottom boundary layers beneath shoaling and breaking waves

The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.     

The relative contribution of processes driving variability in flow, shear, and turbidity over a fringing coral reef: West Maui, Hawaii

High-frequency measurements of waves, currents and water column properties were made on a fringing coral reef off northwest Maui, Hawaii, for 15 months between 2001 and 2003 to aid in understanding the processes governing flow and turbidity over a range of time scales and their contributions to annual budgets. The summer months were characterized by consistent trade winds and small waves, and under these conditions high-frequency internal bores were commonly observed, there was little net flow or turbidity over the fore reef, and over the reef flat net flow was downwind and turbidity was high. When the trade winds waned or the wind direction deviated from the dominant trade wind orientation, strong alongshore flows occurred into the typically dominant wind direction and lower turbidity was observed across the reef. During the winter, when large storm waves impacted the study area, strong offshore flows and high turbidity occurred on the reef flat and over the fore reef. Over the course of a year, trade wind conditions resulted in the greatest net transport of turbid water due to relatively strong currents, moderate overall turbidity, and their frequent occurrence. Throughout the period of study, near-surface current directions over the fore reef varied on average by more than 41° from those near the seafloor, and the orientation of the currents over the reef flat differed on average by more than 65° from those observed over the fore reef. This shear occurred over relatively short vertical (order of meters) and horizontal (order of hundreds of meters) scales, causing material distributed throughout the water column, including the particles in suspension causing the turbidity (e.g. sediment or larvae) and/or dissolved nutrients and contaminants, to be transported in different directions under constant oceanographic and meteorologic forcing.     

A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast

A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile.     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

Effects of reef morphology variations on wave processes over fringing reefs

Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical atolls fringed by coral reefs are susceptible to coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the infragravity (IG) wave is the dominant component of shoreline run-up compared to the sea and swell (SS) wave and the wave-induced setup. To better understand both the SS and IG wave dynamics over a fringing reef with various morphologies, a series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume based on an idealized fringing reef profile. The shoreline responses of waves to different reef morphologies with/without the reef crest, the lagoon and the reef surface roughness were examined. IG wave resonance on the reef flat was identified by a spectral analysis of the shoreline wave records. Subsequently, a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations was validated by the experimental data. The model was then applied to investigate the impacts of varying reef morphologic features (fore-reef slope, reef-crest width, lagoon width, and reef roughness coefficient) on the shoreline wave motions.     

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...     

江苏小庙洪牡蛎礁的地貌-沉积特征

利用卫星影象和野外实地勘察资料对江苏小庙洪牡蛎礁的地貌-沉积特征进行分析。结果表明，该牡蛎礁发育在强潮淤泥质潮坪上，造礁牡蛎主要是近江牡蛎和长牡蛎，表层的鲜活牡蛎为褶牡蛎。牡蛎礁区海水属盐度较高(27—30)的半成水，含沙量较大，为0．2—0．3g／L。活体牡蛎堆积体顶面高于周围潮间下带滩面1．0—1．5m。潮流较强，多在0．5—2．0m／s。海岸剖面可分为4个带，即礁后潮间带、潮沟、礁体生长带及礁前斜坡带。由于处于海岸侵蚀段，礁后潮坪缺失潮上带和大部分的潮间上带。礁后潮坪主要以粗粉砂为主，礁后潮沟冲淤变化较大，故礁体生长带时而为一沙洲，时而又与岸滩相连。礁体生长带分布在潮间下带，可看到独立的斑状礁体、带状礁体和大面积环状礁体群。环状礁的微地貌可以划分为礁塘(泻湖)、塘口和塘沟、塘口三角洲、礁墙和礁平台等。     

Study on Influences of Fringing Reef on Harbor Oscillations Triggered by N-Waves

Influences of topographic variations of the offshore fringing reef on the harbor oscillations excited by incident Nwaves with different amplitudes and waveform types are studied for the first time. Both the propagation of the Nwaves over the reef and the subsequently-induced harbor oscillations are simulated by a Boussinesq-type numerical model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The present study concentrates on revealing the influences of the plane reef-face slope,the reef-face profile shape and the lagoon width on the maximum runup, the wave energy distribution and the total wave energy within the harbor. It shows that both the wave energy distribution uniformity and the total wave energy gradually increase with decreasing reef-face slope. The profile shape of the reef face suffering leading-elevation Nwaves(LEN waves) has a negligible impact on the wave energy distribution uniformity, while for leading-depression N-waves(LDN waves), the latter gradually decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. The total wave energy always first increases and then decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. In general, the total wave energy first sharply decreases and then slightly increases with the lagoon width, regardless of the reef-face width and the incident waveform type. The maximum runup subjected to the LEN waves decreases monotonously with the lagoon width. However, for the LDN waves, its changing trend with the lagoon width relies on the incident wave amplitude.     

Alongshore Sediment Transport Near Tidal Inlets of Chilika Lagoon; East Coast of India

ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.     

青岛附近夏季风和海面坡度对沿岸流的影响

根据1999—2001年月平均海面高度资料讨论了青岛和胶州湾附近海面高度的年变化。结果表明：各验潮点夏季的海面高度普遍高于冬季的海面高度,具有明显的季节变化。此外,夏季胶州湾口外的海面高度低于胶州湾内的海面高度,表现为由北向南下倾的海面坡度。同时说明了形成这利海面坡度的原因。文章还利用动力学原理探讨了夏季风和海面坡度的动力作用,及其对月平均海流的影响,强调指出了夏季风和海面坡度所产生的压强梯度力的重要性。     

Summer Monsoon and Annual Variability of Sea Surface Slope and Their Effects on Alongshore Current near Qingdao

Based on the monthly mean sea level data obtained from 3 years‘ (1999--2001) tide-gauge measurements, the annual variability of the sea level near Qingdao and Jiaozhou Bay is studied and discussed in this paper. Results show that the sea surface height at all the tide gauges becomes higher in summer than that in winter,with an obvious seasonal variability. Furthermore the sea surface height measured at a short distance outside the bay is lower than that in the bay, showing a sea surface slope downward from north to south. The reasons for the formation of the slope are explained as well. The dynamic action of the summer monsoon and the sea surface slope, and their effects on the monthly mean current are studied by means of dynamics principles. The importance of the summer monsoon and the pressure gradient generated by the sea surface slope, with their effects on the alongshore current, is pointed out and emphasized in this paper.