国内裂流研究进展

裂流是我国华南沿海地区较为频发的一种自然灾害。本文从国内裂流发生概况、裂流的研究历史以及研究进展等方面对裂流作出阐述,并与国外研究裂流的方法进行了对比。介绍了国外在现场观测运用的方法和设备、国内自研究裂流以来开展的物理模型试验、数值模型以及评价裂流风险的方法。展望了未来国内裂流的研究趋势。     

边缘波的实验室模拟

边缘波是由水体边缘所限制的沿岸周期波浪运动。它与近岸过程有关，且是折射受限制的重力汉，而重力波的水平长度的尺度变化从几厘米到几公里。其周期同入射风浪或更长一点的边缘驻波，是形成近岸环流流型、海滩嘴以及新月坝的重要因子。前进边缘波可以在形成平行海滩的对岸沙坝中起着作用，这些推测是很难使用现场资料来试验的，原则上只是得到少量实验室试验的验证。本文评述了这些试验的结果以及特殊问题。     

中国东部边缘海潮波系统形成机制的模拟研究

以三维高精度潮波数值模拟为基础,动用系统分析方法和地理信息系统技术,对影响中国东部边缘海潮波系统的因素,包括入射潮波、科氏力、海区地形、岸线形状及底摩擦等,进行了模拟试验。结果表明,它们对潮波系统的模式有不同程度的作用,其中科氏力的有无、岸线形态的变化和水下地形的巨变化对潮波系统有重要影响。研究认为,中国东部边缘海潮波系统是一个海－潮相互作用的整体;在一定的入射潮波条件下,该区的海区条件、特别是岸     

任意水深变化水域非线性波数值模拟

为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布。并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型。     

气压生波的数值模似

目前海岸工程实验室中几乎都采用推板或摇板式生波机产生实验研究所需要的波浪。对于波浪、潮流、泥沙模型而言,这种生波机有两个缺点：一是妨碍潮流、泥沙的运移,二是产生二次反射使波浪场失真。是向水面喷压气体的气压装置来产生波浪,用于波浪、潮流、泥沙模型,可以避免上述两个缺点。本文通过数值模拟,认为这种方法是可行的。     

南海北部a波和b波的生成与传播特征的数值研究

本文基于真实地形、潮汐的高分辨率三维MITgcm海洋环流模式,对南海北部a波（大振幅波列形式）和b波（孤立子形式）的生成与传播特征进行了数值研究。首先,我们总结和分析了这些波动的生成与传播特征。然后我们计算了吕宋海峡的能量收支。能量的生成在一天内有三个极大值,其中最大值对应a波的生成。吕宋海峡西边界的能通量一天内有两个极大值,较大的那个对应a波的生成而另一个对应b波的生成。我们设计了敏感性试验来探究吕宋海峡东西海脊对a、b波的生成和传播造成的影响。通过对比敏感性实验和标准试验的结果,发现对于a波的生成东海脊必不可少,但西海脊几乎没有影响。西海脊削弱了a波的振幅但未对a波波速造成明显的影响。b波来自于从东海脊生成的扰动信号。西海脊加强了这个扰动信号但减慢了它的传播速度。     

畸形波数值模拟和定点生成

采用David L等人提出的数值模拟产生畸形波的方法,以Longuet-Hinggins模型为基础,利用一个基本波列和一个瞬态波列线性叠加模拟波面,在很短的波列中得到畸形波,从而使模拟畸形波的效率提高。得到的畸形波畸形程度较高,并且可以控制畸形波出现的时间和地点。用该方法模拟实测畸形波并与其进行对比验证,结果表明模拟产生的畸形波和实测畸形波吻合良好。以此方法为基础,在实验室内物理产生畸形波将更加具有可操作性。     

半封闭海湾共振周期计算与研究

三门湾海域水波共振现象较为显著,容易引发海洋灾害。针对三门湾这一典型半封闭海湾,分别从理论推导和数值模拟两方面研究了三门湾的共振周期。研究发现:理论推导结果可以用于对海湾整体共振周期的粗略估计,数值模拟结果更加精确,也能充分反映海湾内不同水域的共振特征。数值模拟结果表明,三门湾内各水域普遍存在3~4个共振周期模态,湾内各水道第一模态和第三模态共振周期数值解与理论值较为接近,石浦水道与外海相联通,共振周期不显著。三门湾内各水域共振周期第一模态对应的振幅最大,然后依次递减,但湾顶的青山港、蛇蟠水道第二模态共振周期及对应的振幅值与第一模态相差较小,基本呈现双峰结构。共振振幅由湾外向三门湾顶部逐渐增加,尤其是湾顶处振幅增益比较显著。通过本研究可以为三门湾的防灾减灾提供科学依据。     

一个新的非恒定型不规则波缓坡方程

缓坡方程由Ｂｅｒｋｈｏｆ所推导并在规则波折射绕射问题的研究上有着广泛的应用。然而对于不规则波折射绕射问题研究，缓坡方程还处于发展研究阶段，本文采用Ｐａｄｅ近似并仿Ｋｕｂｏ方法对缓坡波动方程进行了推导，得到了一个含有时间高阶导数项的不规则波缓坡方程，随即采用ＷＫＢ方法对这个不规则波的缓坡方程进行了简化，推导出一个较为实用的含有一阶时间导数的不规则波缓坡的波动方程。通过数值手段对所推导的不规则波缓坡方程进行了数值模拟，其结果与物模实验较为一致     

数值模拟生成畸形波的一种新方法

通过理论分析和数值模拟,结果证明利用Longuet-Hinggins模型可以得到包含畸形波的随机波列,但在组成波的初相位随机分布的条件下,畸形波发生的概率很低且其畸形程度较小。调整组成波的初相位,增加具有相同初相位的组成波个数,可增大畸形波发生的概率,而且所得畸形波的畸形程度也相应增大。将模拟得到的畸形波与实测畸形波进行了比较,发现它们的波形很相似,表明这种模拟方法是可行有效的。     

Disintegration of linear edge waves

It is demonstrated that offshore wavenumbers of edge waves change from imaginary wavenumbers in deep water to real wavenumbers in shallow water. This finding indicates that edge waves in the offshore direction exist as evanescent waves in deep water and as propagating waves in shallow water. Since evanescent waves can stably exist in a limited region while propagating waves cannot, energy should be released from nearshore regions. In the present study, the instability region is predicted based on both the full water wave solution and the shallow-water wave approximation.     

Resonance three-wave interactions of stokes edge waves

Nonlinear three-wave interactions of Stokes edge waves propagating both in one direction and in opposite directions along a uniformly sloping shelf are considered. In the cases when only the lowest four modes participate in interaction, the synchronism conditions are determined and interaction coefficients are calculated. It is shown that the interaction coefficients of unidirectional edge-wave modes can vanish for certain triads. The spatiotemporal dynamics of a triad of edge waves is investigated. In addition, expressions are given for the resonance interaction coefficients of edge waves over the bottom of an arbitrary profile.     

Interpretation of edge waves observations on Shikotan Island

The observations of short-period edge waves and accompanying morphological features of the coast line in the Dimitrov Bay on Shikotan Island on August 11, 2005, are presented. The wave field characteristics and form of the coastline are interpreted within the frameworks of the exact solutions of three-dimensional nonlinear equations for the waves propagating over a flat sloping bottom.     

南海北部东沙群岛西部海域的海底沙波与内波的研究进展

南海北部外陆架和上陆坡分布着大量的各种类型的深水沙波,经过统计,这些沙波的活动性十分迥异,有着不同于浅水沙波的运移机制。基于国内外对该地区沙波研究成果的总结,指出天文潮、风暴潮等因素均不可能造成海底沙波的持续运动。南海北部同时是世界上内波活动最频繁的区域,与沙波活动区存在空间一致性。经过本文的综述分析,南海北部频发的内波可以造成海底的强流,是造成该海域海底沙波活动的主要原因,未来应在此框架理论下,进行相关证实研究。     

A numerical experiment on nearshore circulation in standing edge waves

The unsteady shallow-water vorticity equation dominating nearshore flow on a gently sloping plane beach has been solved by using the implicit finite difference technique under the assumption of constant viscosity over the flow field. The result of computation showed that pairs of nearshore circulation cells are generated through the nonlinear effect of flow in the boundary layer formed by the run-up movement of a standing edge wave along a shoreline and the paired cell has the spacing of half a wavelength of the edge wave. When the leaky-mode standing wave of Lamb with the same wave period as the edge wave and the wave crest parallel to a shoreline was superposed on the edge wave field, the alongshore spacing of circulation cell doubled and seaward flow in the cell concentrated in the narrow zone like a ‘rip current’. Although no effect of breaking waves is considered in the computation, such a mechanism may also generate some kinds of nearshore circulation systems observed in a sea.     

Progress of internal waves along submarine canyons

Alternating up- and downcanyon currents with velocities up to 50 cm/sec are found in submarine canyons. These alternations have patterns that usually can be matched between adjacent stations in the same canyon, even where separated by as much as 16 km. The matching of curves from adjacent stations is obtained by time shifts. In 20 out of 23 comparisons, the patterns were best fitted by shifting so that a later time of arrival is indicated for the upcanyon station. This indicates that internal waves (mostly tidal in period) are advancing up the submarine canyons or rarely downcanyon. Because the data come from canyons off California, the East Coast of the United States, and the Hawaiian Islands and include depths to as much as 3,500 m, it is suggested that these canyon internal waves may be worldwide. The exceptional downcanyon advances appear to be the result of unusual canyon bathymetry, perhaps combined with unusual tides.     

The effect of the Airy phase during the propagation of edge waves

Peculiarities of the edge wave evolution a great distance away from the source are considered. It is shown that waveguide dispersion may result in discrimination of the region in a wave train corresponding to the Airy phase. The effect of the discrimination of the Airy wave in the remote zone for the model of a step-like shelf is compared with real edge waves (using the marigrams of tsunami observed in the Sea of Japan in 1983).Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Shelf waves with diurnal tidal frequency at the Greenland shelf edge

Tidal analysis was carried out on current measurements at a “cross-shelf” transect off Greenland at 71°N. The diurnal tides manifest themselves mainly as a barotropic continental shelf wave, travelling southward along the shelf slope. This follows from the amplitude distribution of the diurnal tidal components and from the rotation sense of the tidal ellipses at different cross-slope locations, as calculated with simple two-dimensional models. The well organized cross-slope pattern of the velocity amplitudes is absent in observations further north near 75°N. These observations suggest that the local vanishing of the group velocity, which is caused by topography, is of importance for the existence and local amplification of these continental shelf waves with diurnal tidal frequency.     

On the nonlinear interactions in triads of edge waves on the sea shelf

We study nonlinear three-wave interactions between edge waves propagating in the same direction over the shelf step. The conditions of synchronism are determined and the coefficient of interaction is computed for the cases where the waves of the five lowest modes participate in the interaction. The space-time dynamics is studied by analyzing, as an example, a single triad of edge waves. The possibility of interaction of edge waves in the regions with actual topography is demonstrated. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 3, pp. 3–19, May–June, 2008.     

Water levels in a dual-basin harbour in response to infragravity and edge waves

Seiche modes in a compound harbour (an “Outer Harbour” connected both to the sea and to an “Inner Harbour”) were studied using water level data and a numerical model. A variety of harbour oscillations are present, with periods up to 67 min. Periods longer than 25 min exceed resonant modes of the harbour. This paper addresses the characteristics and causes of the open-basin modes. The dual harbour open-basin mode is modified by constriction at the connection between harbours, by partial reflection at the antinode, and by the geometry of the entrance. The single-harbour open-basin mode excites the dual harbour closed-basin mode, which has nearly the same period. This forcing moves the closed-basin antinode and slightly changes the modal period, but the coupling permits the amplitude to increase through the closed-basin resonance. The water level response to wind stress is weak, but significant residual currents can occur, which take the form of clockwise gyres in each basin. Energetic peaks in the water level spectrum at 26, 35, and 67 min are shown to correspond to possible edge waves on the local shelf. The work has practical implications to port design, e.g. towards minimisation of ship ranging while at anchor.