Simplified Method and Improved Solution for Deriving Fifth Order Stokes Wave

As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave de-rived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious,the two equations are simplified into one equation for deter-mining d/L,i.e.,f(H,T,d/L)=0.According to this simplified method,three cases of the solution forthe Skjelbreia equations have been found:one accurate solution;more than one accurate solution and noaccurate solution(but there exists the optimum approximate solution in the area of satisfying Skjelbreiaequations).As to the case of more than one accurate solution,the reasonable solution can be judged fromthe method of variational principle,by means of which an optimum solution improved from the solutionof Skjelbreia equations in the area of satisfying the original mathematical equations of non-vortex andnonlinear wave theory,i.e.,the optimum fifth order Stokes wave,is given.     

深水Stokes漂流公式的一种新形式

本文在未将Stokes波的势函数参数β的前提下使用近似解迭代方法重新推导了Stokes波的水质点的轨迹方程。在具体推导中发现水平位移与垂向位移在作近似解迭代时，收敛于精确解的速度是不相同的，垂向位移在一次迭代后即与精确解非常近似，而对于水平位移必须做二次迭代才能达到较好的精度。由二次迭代的水平位移方程即可获得Stokes漂流公式的一种新式，该形式表明，在三阶精度下Stokes漂流与所在深度的水质点的振幅A的平方成正比。运用由垂向位移方程解得的振幅与参数β的关系式可证明经典Stokes漂流公式可以看作是新漂流公式在特定坐标系下的特定垂直断面处的结果。     

调制Stokes波列长期演化过程中的熵值分析

深水Stokes波列的不稳定调制演化与实际海面的瞬变性、波浪破碎、畸形波等海洋现象密切相关,且波列在长期演化的过程中,演化特性会随着时间尺度的增加而改变,前人的研究多是针对其空间分布特性,对于波列内部能量的分布和变化趋势尚不清楚,因此引入熵的概念用于描述调制Stokes波列长期演化过程中任意时刻波浪场中不同频率波浪能量分布的均匀性。通过高阶谱方法数值模型,模拟了不同初始波陡条件下调制Stokes波列波数谱熵值的长期演化,给出不同阶段初始波陡和熵的关系,并将稳定状态熵值及谱形与典型海浪谱进行对比分析,发现调制Stokes波列长期演化的波数谱熵值和谱形均趋向实测JONSWAP谱,表明其经过长期演化发展,谱变宽变连续,波场内的能量分布趋向均匀并保持动态的平衡,同时也更加趋近于真实海浪。     

An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed

The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated.     

Effects of Wave Breaking on Freak Wave Generation in Ramdom Wave Train

The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index, AI=Hmax/Hs, being used to characterize the freak waves, and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurence in deep water is larger than that in shallow water.     

Unified Water Gravity Wave Theory and Improved Linear Wave

- Based on Least Square Method, this paper presents variational principle for handling various water gravity wave theories and the unified water gravity wave theory was given. By using this variational principle of unified water wave theory, two kinds of improved linear waves were derived. The first one uses the same boundary conditions which were applied to derive 5-order Stokes wave. The second one uses the accurate boundary conditions (Eqs. 11 and 12). The two improved linear waves were compared with the existing linear wave.     

波浪水槽中随机波的模拟

根据线性系统理论,首先由给定的靶谱模拟海浪信号,再把此信号转换为造波控制输入信号,最后在水槽中指定的截面处产生具有给定靶谱的随机波。这种模拟方法已在青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室的大型水槽中实现,并取得良好的效果。     

Effects of Wave Breaking on Freak Wave Generation in Random Wave Train

The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index,AI=Hmax/Hs,being used to characterize the freak waves,and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in breaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in ...     

Probabilistic Distribution of the Maximum Wave Heigh

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio. The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height. Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the variable cannot be easily defined. In this study, however, it can be derived from the relationship between the maximum and significant waves in a nonbreaking environment. Some examples are shown to validate the derived probability density function for the wave ratio parameter. By introducing the wave height ratio into reliability analysis of caisson breakwater, the maximum wave height can be used as an independent and primary random variable, which means that the risk of caisson failure during its lifetime can be evaluated realistically.     

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec     

破碎波群的显著特征指标

群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。     

Dependence of Wave Height Distribution on Spectral Width and Wave Steepness

In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.     

Determining the Onset and Strength of Unforced Wave Breaking in A Numerical Wave Tank

A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra: constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.     

基于海浪谱的海浪视景仿真技术

海浪的视景仿真有重要的应用背景与军事意义。文中围绕如何解决海浪的实时视景仿真问题,讨论了基于海浪谱的不同浪级波面的仿真模型,并讨论了海浪的实时视景仿真实现技术。这些模型与技术对于提高海浪仿真实时性与真实性有一定的参考价值。     

Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Wavelengths and Distribution of Wave Steepness

-A joint probability density is derived for wavelengths and wave heights.It is asymmetric anddepends only on the spectral bandwidthεdefined by Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins(1956).After that atheoretical probability density for wave steepness is obtained.It tends to Rayleigh distribution asε→0.Acomparison between theorethal steepness distribution and laboratory experiment result shows good agree-ment.     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions

Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.     

新型波浪采集系统平台设计

主要介绍了新型波浪采集系统的设计思想与主要参数，采集、存储、运算和电源控制部分的结构与组成，以及各部分的特点和关键技术。     

Information System for Ocean Wave Resources and Its Application to Wave Power Utilization

An information system for ocean wave resources and its application to wave power utilizationare indtroduced.It can manage,analyze and process the data in the monthly report of ocean wave observa-tion records of the State Ocean Administration,and can provide various kinds of curves and numericalcharacters of statistics.This system has been put into utility in Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion(GIEC),the Chinese Academy of Sciences since 1996.An application example is given of theinverstigation and analysis on ocean wave resource of the Nan Ao Island,Guangdong Province,where a100 kW onshore OWC(oscillating water column)wave power station will be built.The wave power distri-bution is obtained in different wave directions for different wave periods.It is found that 70 percent of thewave power comes from the direction of ENE,and more than 95 percent of the wave power is related withdirection E.The average wave power density is about 3 kW/m,and more than 80 percent of the wavepower is distributed in the     

波场非匀质性对波向对变风向响应的影响

本文基于波能平衡方程，通过考虑波的传播项，即，研究波场非匀质性对波向对变风向的响应的影响。导出的结果表明，响应的时间尺度可由３部分表示：１．匀质情形响应的贡献；２．波能分布非匀质性的影响；３．平均波向分布非匀质性的影响。在理论上，它暗示波场的非匀质性在波向响应中起着实质性的作用；在实际情况下，对匀质和平稳风场，波场的非匀质性总是使响应时间尺度减少这一事实进行了讨论。