海滩冲流带高频振动地形动力过程分析

在粤东汕尾后江湾海滩冲流带布设2条观测剖面,共计6个观测点,对滩面冲流带在约一个潮周期内的高频振动进行了观测,取得采样频率分别为1min/次和6min/次的滩面数据各1组.结合同步观测的碎波带波浪潮汐数据,分析探讨了海滩高频振动特征.分析认为在涌浪条件下,滩面高频振动的日内变化主要受到潮位变化过程的控制,涨潮堆积,落潮侵蚀.利用交叉谱分析的结果表明滩面高程变化滞后于潮位变化.滩面下部比上部振动幅度大,变化复杂,滩角脊部比凹部活跃.波群对滩面高频振动有显著影响,特别是波高大于有效波高的波群.滩面高频振动没有表现出明显的泥沙逐渐向陆地堆积过程,有一定的振动周期.     

冲流带海滩高频振动探讨

在粤东汕尾寮嘴口岬间海滩冲流带设置两条剖面,利用2003年10月13日一个潮周期实测高频剖面数据(采样间隔为1min和6min),分析了海滩的高频振动特征。并结合同期实测碎波带水位波动,探讨了海滩高频振动的动力原因。分析表明,此海滩过程主要以堆积为主,并表现有显著周期的振动：其日内变化受潮汐控制,表现为涨潮堆积、落潮侵蚀;波能对海滩高频振动过程有着重要的影响。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.     

波浪作用下级配泥沙海滩滩面变化试验研究

砂质海滩的泥沙具有一定的级配,在波浪作用下,滩面泥沙粒径将发生分选,引起海滩质量变化。在水槽中用不同波高和周期的波浪分别对不同级配的沙滩进行作用,探究滩面在波浪外动力作用下的变化规律。结果表明：全级配沙滩在相同波高波浪作用下形成的沙坝型海滩滩型中,破波点向海的区域表层泥沙分选会随波浪周期增大变差;相同周期(T=1.68s)波浪作用下,全级配沙滩在大波高(H=13.2cm)和小波高(H=6.7cm)的波浪作用下分别形成沙坝型和滩肩型海滩,滩面泥沙分选变好;原始沙滩级配与滩面泥沙变化密切相关,同种波浪动力作用下,中细、粗中沙滩沙坝表层泥沙迎波面粗于背波面,粗细沙滩粗颗粒集中在沙坝和滩顶之间。     

振动模态分析法在单立柱海洋平台上应用

提出联合经验模态分解和二次时频分布的参数识别方法.将结构的响应信号用经验模态分解的方法分解为单频率响应的振动信号,进而计算模态频率和模态阻尼,用Choi-Williams分布计算模态振型.对单立柱海洋平台的计算表明,该方法能比较理想地识别出结构的模态参数,且具有较强的抗噪能力.     

粤东后江湾涨落潮下的碎波带波能与滩面地形时空变化分析

利用涌浪和处于陡滩面、滩面下陡坎和深槽海滩地形条件下的海滩碎波带压力波和滩面地形资料,对碎波带中的入射总波能、长重力波能及两者比值随潮位涨落的变化关系,碎波带动力因子与滩面地形之间的作用关系及典型相关和多维偏交叉谱关系等作了初步分析。结果表明,碎波带中的入射总波能与潮位涨落呈现出一致的变化规律;而碎波带中的长重力波能变化与潮位涨落变化趋势相反;碎波带各动力因子、滩面潜水位和碎波带波浪、潮位及滩面地形引起的滩面陡坎处破波点位置变动等因素的耦合作用,对滩面向海发育和滩面地形变化有重要影响。     

海滩碎波带波能振荡的多尺度分析

对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个测站的波面数据 ,通过小波变换方法计算了小波能谱 ,并作了显著性检验。结果表明 :( 1 )碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性 ;( 2 )在正常波况下 ,波能主要分布于风浪频域 ,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中 ,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势 ;( 3)在高能波况下 ,能量均向长重力波频带增加 ,在长重力波显著尺度 ,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系     

升压站海上运输振动监测系统设计与实现

海上升压站吊装、运输和安装作业是一项高风险的工程,每一步的决策都非常重要。实时振动监测不但可得到大量有价值的监测数据而且可对驳船所运输的升压站组块的各项指标实时监控,还能对随时可能发生的安全隐患进行提早预警,从而降低风险减小损失。文章以江苏滨海北H2海上升压站项目为例,对实时振动监测系统的设计思路进行了阐述,并对监测结果进行了分析。希望通过文章的设计思路及数据分析结果,为类似的海上升压站项目提供参考。     

基于高频观测数据的徐闻青安湾海滩对台风“贝碧嘉”的响应研究

风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣,目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测,获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明：(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛−雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径,增水稳定在0.38～0.5 m之间,而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m,再增加至0.56 m;(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀,形成水下沙坝,滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段,台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4;(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成：第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程;第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀,补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程;第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程;第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮,在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区,可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。     

Sediment suspension events in the inner surf and swash zone. Measurements in large-scale and high-energy wave conditions

The present study presents a database of hydrodynamic properties and suspended sediment concentration collected within the inner surf and swash zones aiming to improve the current understanding of the sediment dynamics occurring within the beach area closest to the shoreline.     

Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

海岸破碎带植物消浪数值模拟研究

沿海防浪林能形成柔性的植物消浪体系,可以有效降低风暴潮灾害。由于防浪林消浪效果受波浪、近岸水深及植物等多重因素的影响,消浪机理较为复杂,以往的系统研究成果较少。本文以立面二维自由面紊流模型为工具,建立了基于植物冠层特征的多孔介质模型,精细地模拟了破碎波对植物带的冲击,并与物理模型试验结果进行了对比验证,计算分析了植物带宽度、植物密度、滩地水深等因素对消浪效果的影响。     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

便携式高频地波雷达台湾海峡浪高观测

As an important equipment for sea state remote sensing, high frequency surface wave radar(HFSWR) has received more and more attention. The conventional method for wave height inversion is based on the ratio of the integration of the second-order spectral continuum to that of the first-order region, where the strong external noise and the incorrect delineation of the first- and second-order Doppler spectral regions due to spectral aliasing are two major sources of errors in the wave height. To account for these factors, two more indices are introduced to the wave height estimation, i.e., the ratio of the maximum power of the second-order continuum to that of the Bragg spectral region(RSCB) and the ratio of the power of the second harmonic peak to that of the Bragg peak(RSHB). Both indices also have a strong correlation with the underlying wave height. On the basis of all these indices an empirical model is proposed to estimate the wave height. This method has been used in a three-months long experiment of the ocean state measuring and analyzing radar, type S(OSMAR-S), which is a portable HFSWR with compact cross-loop/monopole receive antennas developed by Wuhan University since 2006. During the experiment in the Taiwan Strait, the significant wave height varied from 0 to 5 m. The significant wave heights estimated by the OSMAR-S correlate well with the data provided by the Oceanweather Inc. for comparison, with a correlation coefficient of 0.74 and a root mean square error(RMSE) of 0.77 m. The proposed method has made an effective improvement to the wave height estimation and thus a further step toward operational use of the OSMAR-S in the wave height extraction.     

经验模态与小波分解在光学遥感内波参数提取中的应用

内波遥感参数提取是利用遥感影像研究海洋内波的重要手段,通过提取内波的基本参数可以对海洋内波的生成与传播机制进行进一步的研究。提出了利用经验模态分解、小波分解与高阶多项式拟合从光学影像中提取内波半波宽度的方法。经验模态分解与小波分解对内波剖面数据进行尺度分解,根据归一化方差最大来提取内波分量;多项式拟合基于内波剖面的亮暗条纹变化完全由内波调制的假设,对数据进行拟合,并根据一阶导数来提取半波宽度。用南海北部东沙岛附近2004年7月10日的中-巴资源卫星(China-Brazil Earth Resources Satellite,CBERS)影像对方法进行了验证。结果表明,3种方法能较好地提取所需参数,获取的内波半波宽度具有较好的一致性;上述方法在处理非平稳及非线性遥感数据上,具有非常明显的优势。基于一维非线性内波理论,通过提取的内波半波宽度,辅以水深和混合层深度数据,反演了内波的振幅。     

On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash

Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation.     

基于高频地波雷达的多时间尺度海流研究

近海海流受多种动力过程及岸线岛屿的作用呈现空间和时间尺度上的复杂变化,而地波雷达由于其探测面积广、时间分辨率高的特点成为研究这些变化的有效手段。本文利用舟山海域多年高频地波雷达资料,通过潮流调和分析、低通滤波和相关性分析对该海域海流潮周期、极端事件、季节、年际尺度的动力过程进行了解译。研究表明,舟山海域属于正规半日潮,潮流运动形式以顺时针旋转流为主,流速大小在空间上为东北方向较大,往西南方向逐渐减小,并在近岸处得到增强。余流的年际变化并不显著,但存在着明显的季节变化,例如冬季为南向流,流速减小,空间分布上近岸较外海大,而夏季与之反向,为北向流,流速较大,空间分布较为均匀。进一步分析了风与余流之间的相关性,在大风期间,风与余流的速度相关系数在0.48～0.90之间,方向相关系数在0.55～0.68之间。极端事件发生时,速度、方向的相关系数分别高达0.92与0.91。总体而言,通过分析高频地波雷达数据能够较好地反映舟山海域海流的时空特征,为海洋灾害监测和污染物、藻华的输运研究提供依据。