T年重现期波高的最大熵估计

本文在最大熵原则的基础上,通过解一条件变分问题,导出一种由观测数据估计T年（常用的有50a或100a）重现期波高的新方法.本文导出的概率密度函数为f4（H）=αH^γe^-βH4,式中参量α、β、γ可以由年极值波高H的1～4阶分布矩（Hm^-,m=1,2,3,4）显式地表示出来.其具有如下的优越性：（1）参量中包含了H的3阶和4阶分布矩,适用于描述不确定性很大的海浪的重现期波高;（2）符合最大熵原则,即其信息熵最大,从而特别适用于重现期波高的估计;（3）形式简单且其参量容易由已知观测数据确定,便于理论和实际应用.作者对两个水文观测站的实测数据,分别使用该方法,及一些现有常用的方法计算其50、100a重现期波高.比较计算结果表明该方法非常接近于皮尔逊-Ⅲ方法和龚贝尔方法的结果.     

碟形浮标观测方向波谱误差分析及修正

改进了方向波谱的分析方法及噪声谱经验公式，使本法随测波环境及仪器特性自动修正经验参值，更易于实际应用。基于Maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method，由时域及频率域上的浮标动力反应数值计算，推求反应增益因子及相位延迟项，并进一步将其导入方向波谱计算，使其能修正资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟不一致及主波向误差。经数值仿真验证，该方法的确能消减因资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟及对主波向估算所造成之影响。应用花莲现场观测资料验证改良之主波向估算方法，得出是否考虑波浪运动与浮标运动间之振幅响应因子及相位延迟因子，所得之主波向的差异介于0－12℃之间。     

多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响,目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响,基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解,结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法,建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型,同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析,结果表明,方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响,且不同位置处的影响并不相同,在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算,可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。     

On the measurement of directional wave spectra at the southern Brazilian coast

The detailed reconstruction of the directional spectrum of wind waves from measurements of the wave field is an essential requirement for several applications, including the numerical modeling of wave evolution. Three reconstruction techniques that provide estimates of the directional distribution function D(f,θ), given the one-dimensional frequency spectrum, are compared using data from a coastal locality at the southern Brazilian coast. The techniques are the maximum entropy method (MEM), the Fourier Expansion Method using a cos² type function (FEM_cos) and the Fourier Expansion Method using a sech type function (FEM_sech). The main patterns of the wave climate at the study site are qualitatively assessed. Three main sea states, including swell, transition between local sea and swell, and directionally bimodal wind sea, are identified. Time series from three events associated with the main sea states provide test cases for inter comparison of the three reconstruction techniques. Maximum entropy estimates of D(f,θ) provide results that are more consistent than those obtained from the two FEM techniques in all cases considered.     

海浪方向谱估计方法的比较

分别利用数值模拟和实测资料对目前被认为分辨力较高的最大似然法(MLM)、扩展本征矢方法(EEV)、扩展最大滴方法(EMEP)以及贝叶斯方法(BDM)等四种海浪方向谱估计方法的可靠性进行了分析,从不同频率、不同噪声水平和不同方向集中度三个角度检验其再现性、稳定性和实用性,结果表明MLM、EEV和BDM大致给出相同的方向分布,其中BDM的再现性最好,但实用性逊于MLM和EEV,EMEP由于稳定性差,不适用于实测资料的分析.     

最大熵原理应用于海浪波高分布的研究

利用最大熵原理从理论上推导出波高的最大熵分布,在此基础上研究了状态参量对波高分布和波高熵的影响。影响最大熵分布的因子是平均波高和状态参量,不同海况对应的状态参量是不同的。利用波高实测资料,得出3种不同海况下的最大熵分布,通过比较发现最大熵分布很好地符合实测数据。把最大熵分布与目前广泛应用的瑞利分布作了比较,结果表明,最大熵分布有2个优点：没有对波高作出任何限制性假定和能够描述不同海况下的波高分布。     

基于最大熵原理的非瑞利海浪波高的统计分布

本论文在最大熵原理的基础上,通过解一个条件变分问题导出一种适用于描述非瑞利海浪波高H统计分布的概率密度函数fn(H)=αHre-βHn,用实验室风浪槽中不同风速下和不同风区处实测的36组风浪波高数据对上述概率密度函数进行验证,并与至今仍被广泛应用的瑞利波高概率密度函数加以比较.结果显示瑞利概率密度函数显著地偏离实验数据,而上述概率密度函数则与各组实测波高分布均符合良好.     

Application of the four models of directional spectra in the Bohai Sea

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A method of determining dominant wave direction from multiparameter hydrological gauge measurements and its application

Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology,the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity.By using the well-known "PUV method", the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained.The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ "Wave-Rider" directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.     

锁相波浪场入、反射波方向谱及反射系数估算

通过数模波浪和物模实验，比较分析了估算多向不规则入射波与反射波相互叠加的锁相波浪场方向分布和反射系数方向分布的改进的贝叶斯估计法MBDM和扩展的最大似然法MMLM的性能。数模试验检验了不同波浪条件、不同波浪测量系统和结构物的不同反射特性等情况下的估算结果，同时还比较了两种分析方法的计算速度和稳定性，结果显示，对于波浪的方向分布估计，MBDM优于MMLM，对于反射系数的方向分布估计以及计算速度和稳定性，MMLM优于MBDM。     

一种新的非线性波浪周期概率分布

在最大熵原则的基础上,通过解一条件变分问题,导出一种新的适用于描述非线性波浪周期T统计分布的概率密度函数.这种概率分布有如下的优越性:(1)该分布的参数是由无因次周期的m(m为正数)阶分布矩得出,从而周期的信息熵达到最大,故适用于描述波浪周期的非线性;(2)该分布有4个参数,从而更能符合最大熵原则;(3)该分布形式简单...     

Estimation of multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measurements

In this paper a technique is discussed for analyzing multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measuring methods. The technique is illustrated for measurements, made with a three-dimensional acoustic current meter in the southern part of the North Sea.The examples given are discussed in the light of the meteorological situation prior to and during the time of recording. The method can be used for the separation of sea and swell, which is of importance for the calculation of wave loads on structures as will be shown finally.     

Modelling of multipeaked directional wave spectra

An approach for modelling of multipeaked directional wave spectra is proposed. For model identification, a numerical optimization technique that uses the random linear search algorithm is applied. This technique allows the fitting of spectral models to measured or hindcast data. The HIPOCAS hindcast data for North Atlantic are used for an application study.     

A maximum-entropy compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas

A new compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas is proposed on the basis of the maximum-entropy principle.The new model is formed by nesting a discrete distribution in a continuous one,having eight parameters which can be determined in terms of observed data of typhoon occurrence-frequency and extreme wave heights by numerically solving two sets of equations derived in this paper.The model is examined by using it to predict the N-year return-period wave height at two hydrology stations in the Yellow Sea,and the predicted results are compared with those predicted by use of some other compound distribution models.Examinations and comparisons show that the model has some advantages for predicting the N-year return-period wave height in typhoon-affected sea areas.     

Directional spread parameter at intermediate water depth

The characteristics of directional spread parameters at intermediate water depth are investigated based on a cosine power ‘2s' directional spreading model. This is based on wave measurements carried out using a Datawell directional waverider buoy in 23 m water depth. An empirical equation for the frequency dependent directional spreading parameter is presented. Directional spreading function estimated based on the Maximum Entropy Method is compared with those obtained using a cosine power ‘2s' parameter model. A set of empirical equations relating the directional spreading parameter corresponding to the peak of wave spectrum to other wave parameters like significant wave height and period are obtained. It shows that the wave directional spreading at peak wave frequency can be related to the non-linearity parameter, which allows estimation of directional spreading without reference to wind information.     

On the determination of directional wave spectra for practical applications

The performance of various directional instruments for practical oceanographic and coastal engineering applications is examined. The emphasis is put on the application of conventional current meters equipped with high resolution pressure sensors and three element arrays. Two simulation techniques have been used to produce input data with known frequency spectrum and known directional spreading. The directional spreading is determined by the maximum likelihood method and the resulting spreading is compared with the input spreading. The performance of a conventional current meter equipped with a high resolution pressure sensor depends on the width of the directional spreading of surface waves and on the frequencies under consideration. Even for very narrow directional spreading, the current meter response is acceptable for practical applications and for shallow water deployment. In general, the current meter directional response does not depend on the direction of the incident waves. The spatial array of three wave staffs deployed in shallow water shows a similar performance to that of the current meters when the dimension of the spatial array is of the order of 1 m. This performance also does not depend on the direction of the incident waves.     

墨西哥湾波候统计特性分析

简要介绍了波候的概念,简述Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布及对数一正态分布的拟合方法,提出最大熵分布拟合有效波高、峰周期分布的新方法;选取半封闭海湾墨西哥湾内水深不同、地理位置不同的六个观测站一年的连续资料,以上述三种拟合方法对其有效波高,峰周期概率分布进行拟合,并与观测直方图进行比较检验,结果表明,在墨西哥海湾内,最大熵分布优于对数－正态分布,对数－正态分布优于Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布。     

Satellite-based RAR performance simulation for measuring directional ocean wave spectrum based on SAR inversion spectrum

Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.     

Application of Maximum Entropy Principle to Studying the Distribution of Wave Heights in A Random Wave Field

Based on the maximum entropy principle, a probability density function (PDF) is derived for the distribution of wave heights in a random wave field, without any more hypothesis. The present PDF, being a non-Rayleigh fonu, involves two parameters: the average wave height H^- and the state parameter γ. The role of γ in the distribution of wave heights is examined. It is found that γ may be a certain measure of sea state. A least square method for determining γ from measured data is proposed. In virtue of the method, the values of γ are determined for three sea states from the data measured in the East China Sea. The present PDF is compared with the well known Rayleigh PDF of wave height and it is shown that it much better fits the data than the Rayleigh PDF. It is expected that the present PDF would fit some other wave variables, since its derivation is not restricted only to the wave height.