Ocean variability along the southern coast of Java and Lesser Sunda Islands

The sea surface height data from 1992 through 2012 in the Eastern Indian Ocean, the 6 sets of hydrographic data sparsely spanning 1990–2001 in water south of Java–Bali, and the 24 shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data across the Ombai Strait during 1997–2000 were used as a combined dataset to understand sea level and current variability along the southern coast of Java and Lesser Sunda Islands. The first two dominant empirical orthogonal function (EOF) modes capture combined seasonal with interannual and seasonal variability that account for 44.5 and 19.9 % of the total variances caused by El Niño Southern Oscillation and Indian Ocean Dipole events, and by the seasonal change of the Asian monsoon, respectively. The geostrophic current and ADCP data show that the eastward and westward currents are distinguishable via the vertical profiles of current velocity. The eastward-flowing South Java Current (SJC) is characterized by a large vertical shear and shallower diminishing depth of about 150 m and it is increased to 300 m in the presence of the Indian Ocean Kelvin Waves (IOKWs). In contrast, the westward current is dominated by the Indonesian Throughflow (ITF) with no vertical shear and has uniform current in the upper 300 m layer. The coastally trapped SJC and IOKWs are responsible for the eastward current. The SJC is not observed in the westward current because of non-existence of coastally trapped modes. The ITF and SJC generate persistent cyclonic (cold) and anticyclonic (warm) mesoscale eddies, respectively, in waters south of eastern Java.     

墨西哥湾波候统计特性分析

简要介绍了波候的概念,简述Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布及对数一正态分布的拟合方法,提出最大熵分布拟合有效波高、峰周期分布的新方法;选取半封闭海湾墨西哥湾内水深不同、地理位置不同的六个观测站一年的连续资料,以上述三种拟合方法对其有效波高,峰周期概率分布进行拟合,并与观测直方图进行比较检验,结果表明,在墨西哥海湾内,最大熵分布优于对数－正态分布,对数－正态分布优于Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布。     

Spatial and temporal variability of coastal storms in the North Atlantic Basin

Over the past three to four decades, there has been a growing awareness of the important controls exerted by large-scale meteorological events on coastal systems. For example, definitive links are being established between short-term (timescales of 5–10 years) beach dynamics and storm frequency. This paper assesses temporal variability of coastal storms (both tropical and extratropical) and the wave climatology in the North Atlantic Basin (NAB), including the Gulf of Mexico. With both storm types, the empirical record shows decadal scale variability, but neither demonstrates highly significant trends that can be linked conclusively to natural or anthropogenic factors. Tropical storm frequencies have declined over the past two or three decades, which is perhaps related to recent intense and prolonged El Niños. Some forecasts predict higher frequencies of tropical storms like that experienced from the 1920s to the 1960s to occur in coming decades. Results from general circulation models (GCMs) suggest that overall frequencies of tropical storms could decrease slightly, but that there is potential for the generation of more intense hurricanes. These data have important implications for the short-term evolution of coastal systems.

There is strong suggestion that extratropical systems have declined overall over the past 50–100 years, but that there is an increase in frequency of very powerful storms, especially at higher latitudes. Both ENSO and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) are shown to have associations with frequencies and tracking of these systems. These empirical results are in general agreement with GCM forecasts under global warming scenarios. Analyses of wave climatology in the NAB show that the last two to three decades have been rougher at high latitudes than several decades prior, but this more recent sea state is similar to conditions from about 100 years ago. The recent roughness at sea seems to be related to high NAO index values, which are also expected to increase with global warming. Thus, when coupled to an anticipated continued rise in global sea level, this trend will likely result in increasing loss of sediment from the beach-nearshore system resulting in widespread coastal erosion.     

中国近海及临近海域海浪的季节特征及其时间变化

利用1992年12月-2005年3月TOPEX卫星高度计资料,对中国近海波浪季节特征及其时间变化进行了分析。分析结果表明,冬季平均波高最大,台湾海峡、南海北部、中南半岛东南海域以及吕宋海峡外侧是冬季的大浪区;夏季平均波高最小;春、秋两季为过渡期。对冬季大浪所在区域波浪时间变化的研究表明,年变化是其主要时间变化特征,而季节内变化是该海区的另一重要特征,并且以5 a为周期的年际变化与ENSO事件有着很好的对应关系。     

Extreme significant wave height climate in the Gulf of Guinea

This article investigates spatio-temporal trends for different return periods of extreme significant wave height (SWH) in the Gulf of Guinea (GG), northeastern tropical Atlantic Ocean, based on a 37-year (1980–2016) wave hindcast. High-resolution reanalysis windfield datasets were used to force the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III. The wave hindcast information was validated using data gathered from the US National Data Buoy Center. The model performance was adequate. In a spatial analysis, the trends were less than 0.3 m decade^?1 in all parts of the GG, and were increasingly positive westwards, extending to the far western part of the GG; trends below 0.01 m decade^?1 dominated in the eastern part and some areas of the northern part of the gulf. Temporal analysis showed that the trends were negative in all cases. Spatio-temporal trends in the return periods for the 99th-percentile wave height were generally weak. Also, trends in the yearly, seasonal and monthly means of extreme SWH all generally increased from east to west in the GG. Furthermore, temporal trend analysis showed that extreme SWH exhibited an increasing trend of 0.0041 m y^–1 throughout the 37-year period; by season, it exhibited a declining trend of ?0.0005 m y^–1 in winter, and an increasing trend of 0.0048 m y^?1 in summer. The observed increasing positive trend of extreme SWH westward in the GG, however, suggests an increasing storminess towards the western part of the gulf, with potential implications for coastal flooding and erosion, and consequences for coastal structures.     

南海北部沿岸海域潮汐的调和分析

采用t_tide潮汐分析工具对南海北部的5个验潮站2009年全年的逐时潮高资料进行调和分析,计算出各站的调和常数,评估调和常数的准确性、稳定性,并总结了广东沿岸海域潮汐特征.利用对2009年逐时潮高的调和分析结果对2010年全年的潮高进行预测,将各站预测结果与同时间的实测数据进行全年和分季节进行比较,对预测结果与实测数据的残差进行统计分析.通过对残差的散点分布、概率分布、置信区间等统计结果进行分析,检验预测结果的准确性、稳定性和可靠性.结果表明：广东沿岸海域潮汐是以M2分潮为主,K1、O1、S2为次结合的潮汐机制,采用t_tide潮汐分析工具对南海北部潮高的预测结果与实测数据拟合较好,相位预测准确,潮高预测除在时间序列尾部（年尾）有些许较大的误差外,t_tide工具在南海北部潮汐预报中具有较高的准确性和稳定性.预测残差的整体服从正态分布,残差均值小于10-2m量级,方差最大为0.229 4,最小为0.173 2,95%置信区间长度小于10-2.各站季节分析主要分潮的离散度小于0.04的结果充分证明不同季节的分析区别不明显,3个月资料与整年资料的调和分析结果几乎一致,与所选取的季节资料几乎无关.虽然在预测值中,有极个别的残差将近1 m,但并不足以影响到预测的准确性.     

Hydrodynamic and sedimentary responses to two contrasting winter storms on the inner shelf of the northern Gulf of Mexico

Results are presented from the deployment of three bottom-mounted instrumentation systems in water depths of 6–9 m on the sandy inner shelf of Louisiana, USA. The 61-day deployment included nine cold front passages that were associated with large increases in wind speed. Two of the most energetic cold front passages were characterized by distinct meteorological, hydrodynamic, bottom boundary layer, and sedimentary responses and may potentially be treated as end-member types on a continuum of regional cold front passages. Arctic surges (AC storms) have a very weak pre-frontal phase followed by a fairly powerful post-frontal phase, when northeasterly winds dominate. Migrating cyclones (MC storms) are dominated by a strong low-pressure cell and have fairly strong southerly winds prior to the frontal passage, followed by strong northwesterly winds.

On the basis of measurements taken during this study, AC storms are expected to have a lower average significant wave height than MC storms and are dominated by short-period southerly waves subsequent to the frontal passage. Currents are weak and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but become very strong and southwesterly following the passage. Sediment transport rate during AS storms was not as high as during MC storms, and the mean and overall direction tended to be southwesterly to westerly, with low-frequency flows producing easterly transport, and wind-wave flows producing southeasterly transport.

MC storms had the most energetic waves of any storm type, with peaks in significant wave height occurring during both the pre- and post-frontal phases. The wave field during MC storms tended to be more complex than during AS storms, with an energetic, northerly swell band gradually giving way to a southerly sea band as the post-frontal phase progressed. Currents during MC storms were moderate and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but became much stronger and southeasterly during the post-frontal phase. Shear velocity was high during both the pre- and post-frontal phases of the storm, although sediment transport was highest following the frontal passage. Mean and overall sediment transport was directed southeasterly during MC storms, with low-frequency and wind-wave flows producing northerly transport. In summary, the data sets presented here are unique and offer insight into the morphosedimentary dynamics of mid-latitude, micro-tidal coasts during extratropical storms.     

江苏近岸海域水位变化特征分析

基于江苏沿海连云港、吕四两个测点的验潮站多年的观测资料以及AVISO卫星高度计资料,利用统计分析方法和潮汐调和分析方法研究江苏沿海地区的海洋水位变化特征。结果表明:江苏沿海海平面和潮差均呈上升趋势,海平面上升速度达3.35 mm/a,高于全球和区域海平面的上升速度;对采样间隔为1 h的潮位连续观测数据作调和分析,各验潮站主要半日分潮的振幅呈上升趋势,全日分潮的振幅呈下降趋势,S_a分潮的周期性变化与El Nino现象有关。     

Seasonal variability of the sea surface height in the East China Sea along the China coast: A model study

The phase of the sea surface height annual variation in the East China Sea along China’s continental coast is delayed from that in the open ocean area, most probably because of seasonal strong monsoon winds. To elucidate this mechanism, we conducted an idealized model experiment using a rectangular shallow ocean with a sloped seafloor forced by southward blowing winds. We obtain a locally confined high SSH near the western boundary found in the East China Sea. The delay of the phase of the sea surface height (SSH) along the China coast can be interpreted as follows. The SSH of the East China Sea is high over large areas in September and low in March due to the expansion/contraction of seawater, which is attributable to the sea surface heat flux. However, near the continental boundary SSH becomes high in January and low in July under the influence of a monsoon winds. The phase delay along the continental boundary should appear by superposing these two time series with a phase difference near the boundary.     

Inter- and intra-estuarine fish assemblage variability patterns along the Portuguese coast

Estuaries along the Portuguese coast differ considerably in terms of their structure, geomorphologic and hydrologic characteristics. They play an important ecological role for different fish species, namely acting as important nursery areas. The fish assemblages of nine estuaries of the Portuguese coast were investigated in order to evaluate their main inter- and intra-estuarine variability patterns. Fish sampling surveys were conducted in May and July 2006, covering the full estuarine gradient. The different saline areas in each estuary were mapped using a Geographic Information System and fish assemblages’ were described and compared using a functional guilds approach. Generalized linear models were used to relate fish species richness to geomorphologic, hydrologic and environmental characteristics of the estuaries considered and correspondence analyses were performed to evaluate similarities in fish assemblages’ structure. At a large scale, river flow was the most important factor explaining the variability in species richness in estuaries along the Portuguese coast. At a regional scale, different abiotic factors explained the occurrence and abundance of fish species in the estuaries. Nonetheless, the overall role of the estuary was strongly related with the dominant saline zone within each estuary.     

Ocean variability North of New Guinea derived from TRITON buoy data

We investigated variability in the ocean surface-subsurface layer north of New Guinea using Triangle Trans-Ocean Buoy Network (TRITON) buoys at 2°N, 138°E and 0°N, 138°E during the period from October 1999 to July 2004. Both North and South Pacific waters were observed below the subsurface at these stations. The variability in the subsurface waters was particularly high at 2°N, 138°E. Clear interannual variability occurred near the surface; the water type differed before and after onset of the 2002–03 El Niño. Before summer 2001, water that appeared to be advected from the central equatorial Pacific occupied the near surface layer. After autumn 2001, waters advected by the New Guinea Coastal Current were observed near the surface. Intraseasonal and seasonal variations were also observed below the subsurface. With regard to seasonal variability, the salinity of the subsurface saline water, the South Pacific Tropical Water, was generally high during the boreal summer-autumn, when the New Guinea Coastal Undercurrent was strong. Intraseasonal fluctuations on a scale of 20 to 60 days were also seen and may have been associated with intrinsic oceanic variability, such as ocean eddies, near the stations. Ocean variability in the thermocline layer between 100 and 200 m greatly affects the surface dynamic height variability; water variability before 2001 and variability in the pycnocline depth after 2002 are important factors affecting the thermocline.     

Shoreline changes and beach-sand sorting along the northern Sinai coast of Egypt

 Changing shoreline positions along the Sinai coast of Egypt were determined by comparing aerial photographs and historical charts with present-day conditions. The analyses identify longshore patterns wherein erosion along a protruding stretch of the coast gives way to accretion in an adjacent major embayment. This pattern defines two coastal subcells consisting of source/sink couplets. There is a general correspondence between the mineral variation, grain sizes of beach sand, and the patterns of shoreline changes. Associated with erosion/ accretion shoreline change is a selective transport of different minerals according to their densities and grain sizes. Two heavy-mineral groups were obtained by applying Q-mode factor analysis on the heavy-mineral data. These two groups are influenced by transport processes, including sediment provenance from different sources: eroded Nile delta west of Sinai, relict sediments from the former Nile distributaries, and sediment supply by land valleys and from wind-blown sand. Received: 2 June 1995 / Revision received: 29 May 1996     

Monthly mean sea level variability along the west coast of southern Africa

Principal components analysis was used to examine monthly data on sea level obtained from tide-gauge records from the west coast of southern Africa over the period 1957—1975. After a simple correction had removed the effect of local atmospheric pressure, this statistical analysis revealed the structure of nearshore ocean variability over time periods of months to years. The first principal component, accounting for over 55 per cent of the variability in monthly mean sea level, was a near uniform rise and fall everywhere along the west coast of southern Africa. The spectrum of this large-scale structure showed a strong interannual trend, which correlated well with long-term trends of temperature anomaly over the entire South-East Atlantic, and a high-frequency term, which could not be resolved at a time period of one month. The second principal component showed the contrasting response of the northern and southern sites on a seasonal scale, and it could be correlated with seasonal wind data. These results compared well with similar analysis carried out in the North Pacific Ocean.     

北部湾白龙半岛邻近海域沉积物中放射性核素含量水平

2016年在北部湾白龙半岛邻近海域采集了表层沉积物,用高纯锗γ能谱仪测量了沉积物中放射性核素的活度.沉积物中40K、210Pb、226Ra、228Th、228Ra、238U和137Cs比活度分别为354±125、89.2±41.2、32.40±9.38、49.2±14.7、42.8±12.6、48.3±20.2和0.74±0.33 Bq/kg.白龙半岛邻近海域沉积物238U、232Th、226Ra含量水平与我国其他近岸海域的含量水平接近,40K、137Cs含量低于我国其他近岸海域的含量.由沉积物放射性核素活度计算的平均γ辐射吸收剂量(D)和平均年有效剂量当量(AEDE)都与世界平均水平相当,镭当量比活度(Raeq)远低于UNSCEAR建议的最低限值.     

基于实测资料的南海海浪周期关系研究

海浪周期在海洋工程设计中有着重要作用,而不同的海洋工程设施在设计时所选用的周期参数也不同,因此不同周期间的换算关系也就显得尤为重要。本文利用南海北部油气田区1 a的实测海浪周期数据,研究了其谱峰周期、有效周期、跨零周期和最大波高周期等的相互关系,并与相关规范和文献研究结果进行对比,给出了南海海浪周期间的关系式,从而为海洋工程设计提供了支持,也为南海海浪周期关系研究提供了参考。     

琼州海峡内潮流场对冬季风浪场影响的数值研究

利用COAWST数值模式就琼州海峡内潮流场对冬季风浪场的影响进行了研究。经实测数据验证,模型可较好的刻画海峡内的强潮流场。选定东、西向最大潮流时刻为典型案例分别就水位场及潮流场对波浪场的作用展开探讨。在琼州海峡东口处,西向最大潮流时刻下的正水位场增加了承载波浪运动的有效水深,有利于波浪能量的西向传播,进而使得当地有效波高增加。东、西向最大潮流均有利于琼州海峡东口处有效波高的增大,但前者主要通过流致辐聚效应实现,而后者主要经由流致波数位移生效。通过流致折射作用,东向（西向）最大潮流可在海峡中轴线以北的海区引起谱峰波向的逆时针（顺时针）旋转,而在以南的海区触发顺时针（逆时针）旋转。     

北部湾年极值波浪与设计波浪估算的研究

本文基于海上与其附近沿岸台站短期观测资料的分析,建立了两种关系:一种是海上的风速与浪之间的关系;另一种是海上与岸站两地风速之间的关系.通过这些关系,用岸站观测的风速资料可以得到海上的年极值波浪.采用 P—Ⅲ型、Gumbel 和 weibull 方法分别估算海上的设计波浪,结果彼此之间有较大的差异。选用柯尔莫哥洛夫(Kolmogoroff)适合度方法检验表明,估算设计波浪的波高用 P—Ⅲ型方法最好,而估算设计波浪的周期用 Weibull 方法最好。     

Upwelling variability along the southern coast of Bali and in Nusa Tenggara waters

Spatial and temporal variation of upwelling along the southern coast of Bali and in the Nusa Tenggara waters — Indonesia was studied by using satellite image data of sea surface temperatures and chlorophyll-a from September 1997 to December 2008. This study clearly reveals annual upwelling in the regions from June to October, associated with the southeast monsoon cycle, with the sea surface temperature (chlorophyll-a concentration) being colder (higher) than that during the northwest monsoon. In addition, this study also shows that the upwelling strength is controlled remotely by ENSO and IOD climate phenomena. During El Niño/positive IOD (La Niña/negative IOD) periods, the Bali — Nusa Tenggara upwelling strength increases (decreases).     

山东半岛北岸不同生境潮间带浮游细菌多样性研究

通过提取山东半岛北岸不同类型潮间带海水样品的总DNA,构建16S r DNA文库,利用群落相似性分析(ANOSIM)和非度量多维尺度转换排序(NMDS),探究潮间带类型对浮游细菌群落结构的影响,并对比了与近海浮游细菌群落结构的差异。分析结果显示,浮游细菌的丰度及多样性受到潮间带类型的影响,烟台养马岛泥滩、石滩、辛安河沙滩、黄河三角洲碱蓬区和天鹅湖海草区以变形菌门占优势,而黄河三角洲米草区以拟杆菌门为优势菌,其中,天鹅湖海草区浮游细菌的丰富度和多样性最高。潮间带海水中浮游细菌的组成与近海存在显著差异,潮间带浮游细菌的丰度及多样性均显著高于近海。推测季节因素、植被类型、有机质来源可能是造成潮间带不同生境与近海浮游细菌多样性差异的重要因素。