The timing and reproductive output of the commercial sea cucumber Holothuria scabra on the Kenyan coast

The sea cucumber Holothuria scabra is a widely distributed and economically important species that has been harvested in Kenya for decades. No previous studies have been carried out on the reproduction of this species in Kenya. Standard gonad index methods were used to analyze reproductive patterns of individuals collected monthly in 1998–1999, 2000–2001 and 2006–2007. Morphological characteristics, gonad tubule lengths and fecundity were also measured. Mean monthly gonad indices were significantly correlated between males and females indicating synchronous gonad development between the sexes. Gonad indices showed a biannual pattern that was consistent in all three years with a minor spawning event occurring between August and September and a major spawning event between November and December. The pattern of gonad growth showed significant variability between years and between months. Temporal changes in gonad growth correlated significantly with gonad tubule length and absolute fecundity. Monthly gonad indices also correlated significantly with monthly measurements of air temperature and light suggesting a possible role for both factors in timing gametogenesis and spawning. There was a shift in sex ratio from unity in the 1998–1999 and 2000–2001 samples to significantly more males in the 2006–2007 samples, as well as a significant reduction in mean sizes (body wall weight) and reproductive output (gonad index) which suggests that the reproductive success of this species is potentially negatively affected by fishing.     

Temporal variability in phytodetritus and megabenthic activity at the seabed in the deep Northeast Atlantic

We report a ten-year study of the abundance and activity of megabenthos on the Porcupine Abyssal Plain, northeast Atlantic, together with observations on the occurrence of phytodetritus at the deep-sea floor (4850 m). Using the Southampton Oceanography Centre time-lapse camera system, ‘Bathysnap’, we have recorded a radical change in the abundance and activity of megabenthos between the two periods of study (1991–1994 and 1997–2000). In 1991–1994, the larger megabenthos occurred at an abundance of c. 71.6/ha and were dominated by large holothurians. In addition, there were very substantial populations of smaller megabenthic ophiuroids (c. 4979/ha). Together, the total megabenthos are estimated to track over some 17 cm²/m²/d (exploiting 100% of the surface of the seabed in c. 2.5 years). In 1997–2000, the larger megabenthos increased to an abundance of c. 204/ha and were joined by exceptional numbers of a small holothurian species (Amperima rosea, 6457/ha) and ophiuroids (principally Ophiocten hastatum, 53,539/ha). The total megabenthos population was tracking at an estimnated rate of c. 247 cm²/m²/d (exploiting 100% of seabed in just 6 weeks). Coincident with these increases in the abundance and activity of the megabenthos, there were apparently no mass depositions of aggregated phytodetritus to the seabed in the summers of 1997–1999. Mass occurrences of phytodetritus had been noted during the summer months of the three years previously studied (1991, 1993 and 1994), with covering between 50 and 96% of the sediment surface. There is a statistically significant (p<0.02) negative correlation between maximum extent of this seabed cover of phytodetritus and seabed tracking by megabenthos. Additional studies [Lampitt et al., Progr. Ocean. 50 (2001)], indicate that there were no substantial changes in surface ocean primary productivity, in export flux, or in the composition of the flux that might otherwise account for the apparent absence of observable concentrations of phytodetritus during the summers of 1997–1999. We postulate that the marked increase in megabenthic tracking activity resulted in the removal (via consumption, disaggregation, burial etc.) of the bulk of the incoming phytodetrital flux during these years. A simple conceptual model, based on the apparent phytodetrital fluxes observed in 1991 and 1993, suggests that the megabenthos tracking rates estimated for 1997–1999 are sufficient to account for near-total removal of this flux. However, we are not able to estimate other processes removing phytodetritus (i.e. other elements of the benthos) that may also have increased between 1991–1994 and 1997–1999. Other independent studies [e.g. Ginger et al., Progr. Ocean. 50 (2001)] of flux constituents support the possibility that just a few species of megabenthos (e.g. A. rosea, and O. hastatum) could well have consumed a major proportion of the incoming flux and so substantially modified the composition of the organic matter available to other components of the benthos.     

Amphipod prey of gray whales in the northern Bering Sea: Comparison of biomass and distribution between the 1980s and 2002–2003

The ampeliscid amphipod community in the Chirikov Basin of the northern Bering Sea was a focus of study during the 1980s because they were a major food for the Eastern North Pacific (ENP) population of gray whales Eschrichtius robustus. Information from the 1980s benthic investigations, published accounts of ENP gray whale population trends and the occurrence in 1999–2000 of an unusual number of gray whale mortalities prompted concern that the whale population may have exceeded the carrying capacity of its food base. Therefore, during two cruises per year between June and September, 2002 and 2003, we resampled the 20 stations occupied during the 1980s, to determine if there had been any significant changes in ampeliscid abundance and biomass. During 2002–2003, average ampeliscid dry weight biomass was about 28±10 g m⁻² (95% confidence interval), a decline of nearly 50% from maximum values in the 1980s. Amphipod length measurements indicated that the declines were due mainly to the absence of the larger animals (20–30 mm length). Two hypotheses were considered regarding the amphipod declines: gray whale predation and climate. Ampeliscid production (105 kcal m⁻² yr⁻¹) and gray whale energy requirements (1.6×10⁸ kcal individual⁻¹ yr⁻¹) indicated that as little as 3–6% of the current estimate of the ENP gray whale population could remove 10–20% of the annual ampeliscid production from the study site in 2002–2003, a finding consistent with the hypothesis that top-down control by foraging whales was the primary cause of the observed declines. A 10-yr time series of temperature near the bottom in the Bering Strait and northward transport did not reveal a consistent trend between 1990 and 2001, suggesting that climate influences were not the major cause of the observed declines. Arctic ampeliscids have slow growth rates and long generation times; therefore the ampeliscid community may require decades to recover to densities observed in the 1980s. Predicted warming trends in the northern Bering Sea could impact ampeliscid recovery by lowering primary production or altering the community composition of the benthos.     

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.     

Winter distribution of euphausiids (Euphausiacea) in the Barents Sea (2000–2005)

The purpose of the study is to analyze the state of the Barents Sea euphausiids populations in the warm period (2000–2005) based on the study of their structure dynamics and distribution under the influence of abiotic and biotic factors. For estimation of their aggregations in the bottom layer, the traditional method was used with the help of the modified egg net (0.2 m² opening area, 564 μm mesh size). The net is used for collecting euphausiids in the autumn–winter period when their activity is reduced, which results in high-catch efficiency. The findings confirmed the major formation patterns of the euphausiids species composition associated with climate change in the Arctic basin. As before, in the warm years, one can see a clear-cut differentiation of space distribution of the dominant euphausiids Thysanoessa genus with localization of the more thermophilic Thysanoessa inermis in the north-west Barents Sea and Thysanoessa raschii in the east. The major euphausiids aggregations are formed of these species. In 2004, the first data of euphausiids distribution in the northern Barents Sea (77–79°N) were obtained, and demonstrated extremely high concentrations of T. inermis in this area, with the biomass as high as 1.7–2.4 g m⁻² in terms of dry weight. These data have improved our knowledge of the distribution and euphausiids abundance during periods of elevated sea-water temperatures in the Barents Sea. The oceanic Atlantic species were found to increase in abundance due to elevated advection to the Barents Sea during the study period. Thus, after nearly a 30-year-long absence of the moderate subtropical Nematoscelis megalops in the Barents Sea, they were found again in 2003–2005. However in comparison with 1960, the north-east border of its distribution considerably shifted to 73°50′N 50°22′E. The portion of Meganyctiphanes norvegica also varied considerably—from 10% to 20% of the total euphausiids population in the warm 1950s–1960s almost to complete disappearing in 1970–1990s. The peak of this species’ occurrence (18–26%) took place in the beginning of warm period (1999–2000) after a succession of cold years. The subsequent reduction of the relative abundance of M. norvegica to 7% might have been mostly caused by fish predation during a period of low population densities of capelin. This high predation pressure may therefore have been mediated both by other pelagic fishes (i.e. herring, blue whiting, polar cod) but also by demersal fishes such as cod and haddock. Similar sharp fluctuations in the capelin stock (the major consumer of euphausiids) created marked perturbations in the food web in the Barents Sea in the middle 1980s and the early 1990s.     

Diets of short-tailed shearwaters in the southeastern Bering Sea

In the late 1990s, the southeastern Bering Sea exhibited a number of anomalous conditions, including a major die-off of short-tailed shearwaters (Puffinus tenuirostris), a trans-equatorial migrant that constitutes a major portion of the marine bird biomass in the southeastern Bering Sea. As part of a larger study of the ecological role of the inner or structural front over the southeastern Bering Sea shelf, in 1997–1999, we collected short-tailed shearwaters to determine diet composition. In spring 1997, we found that short-tailed shearwaters were consuming predominately the euphausiid Thysanoessa raschii, a diet expected on the basis of past studies. However, in subsequent years, short-tailed shearwater diets in spring contained increasingly larger proportions of fish, in particular, sandlance (Ammodytes hexapterus), as well as other species of euphausiids (T. inermis in 1999). In summer and fall collections, short-tailed shearwater diets were more varied than in spring, and included both fish (age-0 gadids, 21–35% by weight) and a wider variety of euphausiid species (T. inermis and T. spinifera). In summer and fall, crab zoea (August 1998) and copepods (August 1999) were eaten by shearwaters collected while feeding within the inner front. Diets in 1997–1999 were broader than those found in previous studies of short-tailed shearwaters over the inner shelf and Bristol Bay, which had documented diets composed almost solely of T. raschii. Our data are consistent with the hypothesis that euphausiids were less available to short-tailed shearwaters foraging over the middle and coastal domains of the southeastern Bering Sea in 1997–1999 than has previously been true. Our results are also consistent with hypothesis that the inner front can affect the availability of prey to shearwaters.     

Distribution of whitemouth croaker (Micropogonias furnieri, Desmarest 1823) larvae in the Río de la Plata estuarine front

Whitemouth croaker (Micropogonias furnieri) larvae obtained and hydrographic data collected in the Rio de la Plata estuary (35°S–56°W) between 1987 and 2000 were used to explore the early life stages spatial and temporal distribution patterns and their relation to oceanographic features. The spatial distribution, restricted to a band in the inner part of the estuary, coincided with the bottom salinity front and the maximum turbidity zone (MTZ, turbidity front). Larvae were present during the warmest months (October through May) within a range of 14–24.5 °C temperature and 0.9–33 salinity. A vertically stratified sampling performed in the region where the largest abundance was found (December 2005 and March 2006) was used to test the hypothesis that larvae retention occurs in the bottom salinity front.The vertically stratified sampling showed larvae throughout the water column with high predominance in the river–estuary transition zone. A positive correlation between abundance and the bottom salinity horizontal gradient was found. The size analysis showed that the largest individuals (>10 mm SL), probably undergoing the settlement process, inhabited near the bottom and that the smallest (<10 mm SL) were present in the whole water column. Length distribution along the front showed no trend.Results support the estuarine retention hypothesis of previous studies on whitemouth croaker gravid females, eggs distribution and outcomes from a numerical simulation model. Retention in the salinity front/MTZ would allow larvae to benefit from food accumulation in the region, the high turbidity level provide shelter against predators and retention in the estuary secure closeness to the main nursery ground.     

On the stability of the Soya Warm Current

The stability of the Soya Warm Current is examined, in an attempt to explain the mechanism of the formation of the wave-like pattern seen in satellite infrared imagery in summer. A linear stability theory is applied to barotropic shear flows over a realistic bottom topography. Effects of bottom friction are also taken into consideration. For this current in summer, when volume transport is greatest, the possibility of barotropic instability is suggested. The most unstable waves obtained in this study have wavelengths of 60–80 km, periods of about 1. 5 days, and phase velocities of 45–55 cm sec^–1, which is in good agreement with observations.     

Distributions and upward fluxes of particulate matter near bottom in the southeastern Bering Sea Shelf

Time-series measurements of temperature, salinity, suspended matter and beam attenuation coefficient () were measured at four hour intervals for about two days in June/ July 1982 in the middle shelf region and the coastal region of the southeastern Bering Sea. Current meters were also moored at the same locations.Depth-time distributions of indicated that profiles of suspended matter resulted from a combined process of resuspension of underlying sediments and sinking of suspended particles. Average-values for all measurements for particles revealed that the upward transport of particles due to resuspension formed a boundary layer, with a thickness apparently related to scalar speed. The average-profiles of the particle volume concentration were assumed to result from a balance between the sinking and diffusive flux of particles under a steady state, and the upward fluxes were calculated. Within the boundary layer, values of the upward fluxes of particulate organic matter linearly decreased with the logarithm of distance from the bottom. Fluxes of organic carbon at the upper edge of the boundary layer were 0.375 gC·m^–2·day^–1 in the middle shelf region (18 m above the bottom, bottom depth=78m) and 0.484gC·m^–2·day^–1 in the coastal region (25 m above the bottom, bottom depth=33m), and fluxes of nitrogen in both regions were 0.067 gN·m^–2·day^–1. The flux of organic carbon obtained in the middle shelf region (18 m above the bottom) agreed approximately with the flux (0.416 gC·m^–2·day^–1) calculated by substituting primary production data into the empirical equation of Suess (1980).     

Seasonal Investigations of Dissolved Organic Carbon Dynamics in the Tamar Estuary, U.K.

A high temperature catalytic oxidation (HTCO) technique was used to measure dissolved organic carbon (DOC) during seasonal surveys of the Tamar Estuary, U.K. At the time of the programme, the field of DOC analysis had been plagued by numerous analytical difficulties. However, using thorough calibration of the analytical systems and the systematic analysis of an internal reference material, a valuable estuarine DOC data set was produced. The range of DOC concentrations observed (478–110 μM C) is consistent with the published data for riverine and coastal sea waters respectively. The Tamar Estuary is a freshwater DOC-dominated system, with strong correlation between lateral DOC distribution and salinity. However, mixing behaviour was not strictly conservative. During tidal cycle studies at a fixed station, DOC concentrations appeared to be uncoupled from salinity, and were inversely related to turbidity. It is concluded that tidally-induced resuspension of bottom sediments provided the dominant control mechanism for DOC concentration. The Tamar Estuary shows contrasting behaviour to the larger, more heavily impacted, Severn Estuary. Hence it is likely that the behaviour of DOC in estuaries cannot be classified as typical per se, but is a function of the natural and anthropogenic characteristics of the catchment and hydrology.     

Effects of temperature on the vegetative cell liberation of seven species of red-tide algae from the bottom mud in Osaka Bay

Mud samples were collected from the eastern coast of Osaka Bay from April 1984 to August 1985 and were incubated atin situ mud temperatures to examine the effects of temperature on the liberation of seven species of red-tide algae. Skeletonema costatum appeared extensively over a wide temperature range of 9–25°C. The percentage of liberation of benthicHeterosigma akashiwo cells tended to decrease with decreasing temperature, but this species also showed high percentages of liberation (40–100 %) in April whenin situ mud temperatures were still low (9.5–10°C). Germination of benthicHeterocapsa triquetra cells was active at temperatures lower than 10°C but was inhibited to below 20% at temperatures higher than 21°C. This indicates that the supply of vegetativeHeterocapsa cells from bottom muds to seawaters becomes inactive from summer to early autumn. The optimum temperature range for the liberation of benthicChattonella sp. cells was 16–21°C. ForProrocentrum micans, Prorocentrum minimum, andProrocentrum triestinum, no vegetative cells were released from bottom mud at any of the temperatures examined (9–25°C).Field observations on the population dynamics of vegetative cells conducted from April to September 1984 revealed that a close link exists between liberation ofS. costatum andH. triquetra and their blooms in the waters of Osaka Bay. On the basis of these findings, the ecological role of benthic cells in initiating red tides in Osaka Bay is discussed.     

Ocean Color Satellite Imagery and Shipboard Measurements of Chlorophyll a and Suspended Particulate Matter Distribution in the East China Sea

Satellite-derived ocean color data of Coastal Zone Color Scanner (CZCS) on board the Nimbus-7 and Ocean Color and Temperature Scanner (OCTS) on board the Advanced Earth Observing Satellite (ADEOS) are jointly used with historical in situ data to examine seasonal and spatial distributions of chlorophyll a (Chl-a) and suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations in the East China Sea. Ocean color imagery showed that Chl-a concentrations on the continental shelf were higher than those of the Kuroshio area throughout the year. Satellite-derived Chl-a concentrations are generally in good accordance with historical in situ values during spring through autumn (although no shipboard in situ measurement was conducted at nearshore areas). In contrast, ocean color imagery in winter indicated high Chl-a concentrations (4–10 mg m^–3) on the continental shelf where bottom depth was less than 50 m when surface water was turbid (2–72 g m^–3 of SPM at surface), while historical in situ values were usually less than 1 mg m^–3. This suggests that resuspended bottom sediment due to wind-driven mixing and winter cooling is responsible for the noticeable overestimation of satellite-derived Chl-a concentrations. The algorithm for ocean color needs to be improved urgently for turbid water.     

Real-time geophysical measurements on the deep seafloor usingsubmarine cable in the southern Kurile subduction zone

A permanent real-time geophysical observatory using a submarine cable was developed and deployed to monitor seismicity, tsunamis, and other geophysical phenomena in the southern Kurile subduction zone. The geophysical observatory comprises six bottom sensor units, two branching units, a main electro-optical cable with a length of 240 km and two land stations. The bottom sensor units are: 1) three ocean bottom broadband seismometers with hydrophone; 2) two pressure gauges (PGs); 3) a cable end station with environmental measurement sensors. Real-time data from all the undersea sensors are transmitted through the main electro-optical cable to the land station. The geophysical observatory was installed on the continental slope of the southern Kurile trench, southeast Hokkaido, Japan in July 1999. Examples of observed data are presented. Sensor noises and resolution are mentioned for the ocean bottom broadband seismometers and the PGs, respectively. An adaptable observation system including very broadband seismometers is scheduled to be connected to the branching unit in late 2001. The real-time geophysical observatory is expected to greatly advance the understanding of geophysical phenomena in the southern Kurile subduction zone     

The hydrography and biology of a bloom of the coccolithophorid Emiliania huxleyi in the northern North Sea

In June/July 1994 a study was made of a small bloom of the coccolithophorid Emiliania huxleyi in an area of the North Sea to the east of the Shetland Islands. Observations on the hydrography of the study area indicated the bloom was associated with Atlantic water and was confined to an area in which a stable shallow mixed layer had formed. There was no evidence to suggest association of horizontal physical structure with the bloom development. High cell densities of >1– cells dm⁻³, together with low concentrations of PIC (<50 μg dm⁻³) and detached liths (2– liths cm⁻³) indicated that the bloom was studied at an early stage of development. Biochemical and physiological observations indicated active growth was taking place. The results presented are discussed in comparison with previous studies carried out in both oceanic and shelf seas.     

Dense infaunal assemblages on the continental slope off Cape Hatteras, North Carolina

Unusually dense assemblages of benthic infaunal invertebrates have been discovered in continental slope sediments off Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. Densities were highest on the upper slope, ranging from 24,055 to 61,244 (X¯=46,255) individuals m⁻² in nine samples taken at a 600-m site in 1984 and 1985, and from 15,522 to 89,566 (X¯=37,282) individuals m⁻² in single samples at 15 stations over a wider depth range of 530 to 1535 m in 1992. A lower slope station at 2000 m sampled six times in 1984–1985 and again in 1992, had densities consistently higher than 8500 individuals m⁻². Species richness and diversity are consistently lower on the Cape Hatteras slope than at other locations off North Carolina and elsewhere in the western North Atlantic. The 1992 studies indicated that the upper slope infaunal assemblages (600m) were dominated by oligochaetes, while the middle slope assemblages (800–1400 m) were dominated by the polychaeteScalibregma inflatum. This latter depth range could be defined into two assemblages based upon suites of less abundant species. At depths of 1500–2000 m, a lower slope assemblage dominated by various deposit feeding polychaetes and oligochaetes was found. Results from the 1984–1985 studies suggest seasonal or year-to-year patterns in the dominance ofS. inflatum andCossura longocirrata. Unusually high sedimentation rates and organic carbon flux have been recorded from the slope off Cape Hatteras and may account for the high infaunal productivity in the area. Most of the dominant infaunal organisms are species more typical of shallow, coastal habitats rather than deep-sea species that dominate other areas of the U.S. Atlantic continental slope. Parallel investigations regarding the nature of organic matter in the Cape Hatteras sediments have revealed a mixture of both marine and terrestrially derived carbon, only a small percentage of which is composed of the smaller molecular weight polyunsaturated fatty acids more typical of continental slope sediments. It is likely that the high percentage of refractory organic matter would favor the survival of preadapted shelf species over those from adjacent slope environments.     

WEST: A northern California study of the role of wind-driven transport in the productivity of coastal plankton communities

The “Wind Events and Shelf Transport” (WEST) program was an interdisciplinary study of coastal upwelling off northern California in 2000–03. WEST was comprised of modeling and field observations. The primary goal of WEST was to better describe and understand the competing influences of wind forcing on planktonic productivity in coastal waters. While increased upwelling-favorable winds lead to increased nutrient supply, they also result in reduced light exposure due to deeper surface mixed layers and increased advective loss of plankton from coastal waters. The key to understanding high levels of productivity, amidst these competing responses to wind forcing, is the temporal and spatial structure of upwelling. Temporal fluctuations and spatial patterns allow strong upwelling that favors nutrient delivery to be juxtaposed with less energetic conditions that favor stratification and plankton blooms. Observations of winds, ocean circulation, nutrients, phytoplankton and zooplankton off Bodega Bay and Point Reyes (38°N) were combined with model studies of winds, circulation and productivity. This overview of the WEST program provides an introduction to the WEST special issue of Deep-Sea Research, including the motivation for WEST, a summary of study components, an integrative synthesis of major research results to-date, and background on conditions during field studies in May–June 2001 (the upwelling period on which this special issue is focused).     

Installation of ocean bottom bases for observation of seafloor crustal movement

Abstract

Ocean bottom bases (OBBs) have been installed on both sides of the axis of the Sagami Trough east of the Izu Peninsula, central Japan, as the first step toward long‐term geodetic and geophysical observations at the plate boundary (subduction zone). The OBB is a platform for seafloor measurements; otherwise it is difficult to find an appropriate place for precise seafloor measurements in the subduction zones. It is made of a nonmagnetic concrete block of size 1100 × 1100 × 500 mm. It was lowered from a ship using a winch wire and installed on a predetermined place with its position being monitored by an acoustic transponder system and a 30‐kHz bottom pinger with an accuracy of about 2 m.

It was confirmed later during the divings on board the submersible Shinkai 2000 that the OBB was installed on a flat mud bottom in normal condition. No change has been recognized in the installation condition in 3 years; the OBB is stable enough to be used for acoustic range measurements on the seafloor as well as for several geophysical measurements.

The resolution of seafloor range measurement can be improved by two orders by using phase measurement techniques with the aid of pulse compression. Precise acoustic range measurement of the order of 10^?5 is feasible under the following conditions: two‐way measurements between the two OBBs installed on the slope facing each other with angles larger than 1.5°. Correction is necessary for the effect of long‐term temperature variation.     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model of estuarine circulation with an application to Southampton Water, UK

A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model has been developed to simulate water mass circulation in estuarine systems. This model is based on the primitive equation in Cartesian coordinates with a terrain-following structure, coupled with a Mellor–Yamada 2.5 turbulence scheme. A fractional-step method is applied and the subset of equations is solved with finite volume and finite element methods. A dry–wet process simulates the presence of the tidal flat at low water. River inputs are introduced using a point-source method. The model was applied to a partially mixed, macrotidal, temperate estuary: Southampton Water, UK. The model is validated by comparisons with sea surface elevation, ADCP measurements and salinity data collected in 2001. The mean spring range 2(M₂ + S₂) and the mean neap range 2(M₂ − S₂) are modelled with an error relative to observation of 12 and 16%, respectively. The unique tidal regime of the system with the presence of the ‘young flood stand’ corresponding to the slackening conditions occurring at mid flood and ‘double high water’ corresponding to an extension of the slackening conditions at high tide is accurately reproduced in the model. The dynamics of the modelled mean surface and bottom velocity closely match the ADCP measurements during neap tides (rms of the difference is 0.09 and 0.01 m s⁻¹ at the bottom and at the surface, respectively), whereas at spring the difference is greater (rms of the difference is 0.25 and 0.20 m s⁻¹ at bottom and surface, respectively). The spatial and temporal variation of the degree of stratification as indicated by salinity distributions compares well with observations.