淤泥质岸滩侵蚀堆积动力机制及剖面模式──以连云港地区淤泥质海岸为例Ⅰ

本文以江苏北部连云港地区（北起海州湾湾顶，南至废黄河口）同时存在的侵蚀和堆积两种淤泥质岸滩类型为研究对象，对近岸波浪和潮流的作用特征进行了定量的分析，给出了近岸波浪的分布特征，建立了两种岸滩上波浪的衰减模式，得到了波浪和潮流底切力在不同岸滩上的时空分布规律。由此指出在侵蚀型岸段，波浪是岸滩侵蚀的主要动力因子，潮流主要起运移扩散泥沙的作用；在堆积型岸段，潮流则是岸滩塑造的主要动力，波浪作用退居次要地位。     

试论植物在潮滩发育演变中的作用

根据１９８５－１９９１年对长江三角洲和苏北潮滩－潮沼系统中潮流和波浪观察、滩面高程量算、沉积物分析和人工海草试验，研究植物对潮滩动力和沉积的影响。结果表明，（１）植物可使底层流速降低２０％－６０％，使波浪能量大部分被吸收。（２）沼泽前缘存在侵蚀机制，而沼泽的主体则有明显的促淤现象；沼泽中的沉积速率可达光滩的９倍以上。（３）沼泽前缘沉积物有粗化现象，沼泽主体则是细化环境；沼泽是孢粉相对富集的场所；沼     

浪致近岸水位变化及流场的数值计算

本文探讨了单频波浪入射到具有复杂地形（缓变坡度）的近岸水域所导致的水位变化和近岸流场的数值计算问题。用了联合折射－绕射波浪场模型方程确定波要素，对一个模型海区和一个实际海区进行了实际计算。讨论了考虑和不考虑绕射效应的波浪场对水位变化及近岸流场的影响。数值计算结果表明，计算的水位变化和近岸流场都是（定性）合理的，岸坡水位最大升高达深水入射波高的１１．２％～１５．３％（以上）；考虑和不考虑绕射效应的波浪场对计算的水位变化和近岸流场都有影响，特别是对流速量值影响很大。     

汕头近岸区的台风波浪(一)实测记录的分析

作者选择了汕头近岸区某测点的台风（包括热带风暴和强热带风暴，下同）波浪从下列三个方面进行分析研究：（一）实测记录的分析；（二）后报台风波浪及其基本特征；（三）各种重现期台风波浪要素的确定。力图为该近岸区海岸工程设计中必须考虑的水动力参数提供依据。本文，着重分析了实测台风波浪能量的分布，给出台风过程波浪能量随频率和方向的变化；波浪能量的集中程度以及台风过程测点出现波高最大值时波浪能量随频率和方向的分布等。从实测资料的分析揭示台风波浪能量的结构。     

粤西水东单点系泊海域潮流和低频流特征

水东单点系泊海洋浮标站，设置在水东港附近，水深25m。利用波浪自记仪、ADCP流速剖面仪（座底）和CTD等，对水文（浪、流、潮、温、盐）和气象（海面风速和风向）进行综合观测，历时一年。其潮流特征为：表、中层流向出现最多的频率是：WSW。低频流出现频率最多的方向和潮流基本一致。10月～第二年4月的这7个月中，WSW出现率最高：表层平均出现频率52．1％，中层平均出现频率52．6％；而5～9月这5个月中，表层平均出现频率25．5％，中层平均出现频率21．3％。     

江苏如东西太阳沙及烂沙洋海域潮流泥沙数值模拟

基于不规则三角形网格有限差分法并考虑波浪及其破碎作用,建立了平面二维潮流场和泥沙场数学模型.该模型对有望建设成深水码头和深水航道的江苏如东西太阳沙和烂沙洋海域的潮流场和泥沙场进行了细化数值模拟.数值模拟结果表明：（1）本海区潮流基本上是顺深槽流动的往复流,潮流流速大,烂沙洋北水道和西太阳沙附近大潮涨落潮最大流速分别在2 m/s和1 m/s以上;（2）本海区的潮平均水体含沙量在0.5 kg/m^3以下,落潮含沙量大于涨潮含沙量;（3）小浪对水体含沙量影响很小,大浪作用下水体含沙量明显增加.     

波浪掀沙、潮流输沙的数值模拟

在淤泥质海岸上,促使岸滩演变的基本动力过程是波浪掀沙、潮流输沙.它与岸滩演变、港口回淤、航道淤积、闸下淤积等许多问题有关.本文重点介绍波浪掀沙、潮流输沙及海底演变过程,论述其数值模拟的数学理论即各种动力因素的控制方程及地形演变方程,论述波浪掀沙、潮流输沙的物理过程.通过理论分析与实践验证,并确定模拟演变过程的几个重要参数,如潮流底部剪切应力、波浪潮流共同作用下的底部剪切应力、风对水面的剪切应力以及波浪剩余动量流等,为正确的模拟提供了可靠的依据.文章通过应用实例说明此模拟是正确的,可应用于该领域内的各种复杂问题.     

岬间海湾滨面带波浪结构和外观统计特征

对中等波能条件下收集的粤东两个岬间海湾滨面带4个站点的波浪数据作了滨面带波面、波包和长重力波的基本特征的分析，得到如下主要结果：（1）滨面带波谱由多峰频构成，从海向岸波高增大，波周期减小，谱宽度加大，谱尖度减小；（2）入射波群性较强，表征入射波群性的相对均方根群高与谱宽度无关；（3）长波振幅与波浪能量增大，其形成主要与组成波间的非线性相互作用有关。     

方形网箱水平波浪力的迭加计算和实验验证

采用小直径圆柱体绕流理论和网渔具理论为基础的经验水动力计算法，分别考虑网箱框架是刚性体、网衣和绳索是柔性体的特征，结合正弦波理论对方形网箱及其构件受到的水平波浪力特性进行了分析研究，理论给出了波浪力迭加计算法，并把计算结果与小尺度的网箱水槽实验进行对比验证。结果表明，计算数值与试验数据较接近，平均误差率在15％以内。网箱水平波浪力呈周期性、不对称变化，在波浪周期小于0.72s时，主要以框架的波浪力为主，反之以网衣的为主。在波长为0.8m、周期为0.72s、水深为0.7m、波高为68.3mm情形下，计算结果显示网箱的框架尺寸和形状及其系泊、布局的选择应根据实际海况而定，网箱高度可适当增加，当设置水层下降深度相对于网箱高度比率为20％-40％，时，波浪力峰值下降相对率达68.03％-88.20％，表明可以较大程度地降低其波浪力。     

论波浪,水流与淤泥质底床的相互作用

本文对波浪，水流与淤泥质底床三者之间相互作用的一系问题的研究现状和成果进行了扼要的评述，包括以下几个方面：１）水流与淤泥质底床的相互作用；２）波浪与淤泥质底床的相互作用，３）波浪与水流的相互作用（刚性床面），４）流流与淤泥质底床的相互作用，在此基础上提出它的研究方法和前沿课题。     

Diurnal shelf waves off Hamada on San'in Coast

The tidal current data observed off Hamada on San'in coast have shown the diurnal tidal currents to be larger than the semidiurnal ones by a factor of 5–8, although the ratio (K₁+O₁)/(M₂+S₂) for the tidal heights at Hamada is 1.3. Furthermore, the diurnal currents are found to be more remarkable on the shelf slope than on the shelf. We consider such diurnal current features as being due to the vortical mode waves, and show that the broad shelf and steep shelf slope off San'in coast allow 1st-mode interior shelf waves (ISWs) at a diurnal-period. Using a simple shelf model, it is shown that ISWs occur in response to the seaward component of diurnal tidal oscillations on the shelf and their propagation originates from the western entrance of the Tsushima Straits.     

Shelf waves with diurnal tidal frequency at the Greenland shelf edge

Tidal analysis was carried out on current measurements at a “cross-shelf” transect off Greenland at 71°N. The diurnal tides manifest themselves mainly as a barotropic continental shelf wave, travelling southward along the shelf slope. This follows from the amplitude distribution of the diurnal tidal components and from the rotation sense of the tidal ellipses at different cross-slope locations, as calculated with simple two-dimensional models. The well organized cross-slope pattern of the velocity amplitudes is absent in observations further north near 75°N. These observations suggest that the local vanishing of the group velocity, which is caused by topography, is of importance for the existence and local amplification of these continental shelf waves with diurnal tidal frequency.     

舟山本岛南部附近海域潮汐潮流特征分析

文章基于沈家门长期潮位站、长峙岛临时潮位站的观测资料和对舟山本岛南部海域多个站位实测的潮流基础数据,采用调和分析法对潮汐潮流进行特征分析。舟山本岛南部附近海域潮汐类型属于规则半日潮,潮差变化和日不等现象明显,有一定的潮汐浅海作用。潮流类型属于以往复流为主的规则半日浅海潮流,实测潮流中涨落潮流速不等、历时不等现象显著,最大流速、平均流速均是大潮大于小潮,涨潮流历时长于落潮流历时,潮流变化主要受协振波所控制,流向在涨落潮方向波动。     

Tidal observations on the West Coast,South Island,New Zealand

Harmonic tidal constants, calculated from sea surface elevation observations at Jackson Bay on the West Coast of the South Island, are consistent with available semi‐diurnal and diurnal tidal phase distributions. Current observations taken over a 111 day period at mid‐depth in 1505 m of water on the southern flank of the Challenger Plateau and over a 240 day period in 1430 m of water on the South Island western coast continental slope, are subject to tidal analysis. At both sites there is a component of energy flux directed across the isobaths and only at the northern site for the M2 tide is the phase consistent with a dominant progressive barotropic tide. The successive 30 day harmonic constants at the southern continental slope site exhibit a trend in the M2 tidal ellipse speed and ellipticity suggesting the presence of a regular internal tide. Superposition of ‘internal tidal’ and barotropic tidal flows, as prescribed from progressive‐ and standing‐wave elevations, to fit the observations indicates that the ‘internal tide’ is probably associated with the first baroclinic mode. At the current‐meter depths the speeds of the ‘internal tide’ for the M2 tide are about the same as the barotropic speeds, whereas, the S2 ‘internal tide’ speeds are larger than those of the barotropic tide. The consistency of the trend in ellipse parameters lends support to the theoretical progressive trapped barotropic tidal flows being a good approximation to the actual barotropic tide. Some support for the hypothesis that the S2 tide on the West Coast of New Zealand has a substantial standing wave contribution is given by the northern observations, where the ratio of the S2: M2 internal tidal ellipse current amplitudes are substantially larger than the ratio of the elevations, the internal tide being generated by across‐isobath flows.     

象山港牛鼻山水道潮流场的高频地波雷达观测与分析

作为LORCE计划中构建高频地波雷达观测网的试点,面向象山港牛鼻山水道,在六横岛郭巨山和白马礁各设置了1台OSMAR S50高频地波雷达。在2台雷达合成表面流场有效区域的中间地带,利用Valeport旋桨式海流仪和ADCP定点开展了周日连续观测,以验证高频地波雷达合成表面流场的精度。对比定点流场和高频地波雷达对应数据发现,两者变化相关性较好,高频地波雷达在该点获得的流场有较高精度。借助SCHISM建立的区域模型结果,检验了高频地波雷达数据大面上的可用性。比较发现,观测和模拟值在大的趋势上是一致的：牛鼻山水道为规则半日潮流海域,M2是主要分潮,分潮M2和K1以往复流为主;涨潮时外海海水先通过牛鼻山水道流向象山港内,一段时间后再流向佛渡水道;落潮时象山港内海水率先经牛鼻山水道流出至外海,随后佛渡水道海水再逐渐流入牛鼻山水道。     

A 2D-numerical modeling of the generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait

The wide presence of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the northern South China Sea (SCS) has been confirmed by both Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images and in situ observations. These ISWs are believed being generated over the varying topography in the Luzon Strait. They typically propagate westwards into the SCS with a diurnal or semidiurnal period. Their generation sites are, however, not yet solidly identified. To obtain a clear picture of the ISWs, we designed numerical experiments to analyze the generation and propagation of the ISWs in the Luzon Strait using a 2-dimensional non-hydrostatic model. The model current is forced by barotropic or baroclinic currents imposed at open boundaries. The experiments show that the tidal current serves as a kind of triggering force for the ISWs over the submarine ridges in the strait. Under the forcing of tidal currents, depressions are formed near the ridges. The ISWs then split from the depressions through a process different from lee-wave generation mechanism. The appearance of the ISWs is influenced by the strength and period of the forcing current:the ISWs are more likely to be generated by a stronger tidal current. That is why the ISWs in the Luzon Strait are frequently observed during spring tide. Compared with diurnal tidal current, the ISWs generated by semidiurnal tidal current with the same amplitude is much more energetic. It is partly because that the wave beams in diurnal frequency have a larger angle with the vertical direction, thus are more likely to be reflected by the topography slope. The impact of the Kuroshio to the ISWs is also analyzed by adding a vertical uniform or shear current at boundaries. A vertically uniform current may generate ISWs directly. On the other hand, a vertically shear current, which is more realistic to represent the Kuroshio branch, seems to have little influence on the generation process and radiating direction of the ISWs in the Luzon Strait.     

南麂岛附近海域潮汐和潮流的特征

以2008年冬季在浙江近海南麂岛附近投放的4个底锚系观测的水位和流速资料为依据,分析了潮汐和潮流特征。水位谱分析结果显示半日分潮最显著,全日分潮其次;近岸的浅水分潮比离岸大。水位调和分析结果表明:潮汐类型均为正规半日潮,近岸处的平均潮差大于3m,最大可能潮差大于6m,潮汐呈现出显著的低潮日不等和回归潮特征。流速谱分析结果显示半日分潮流最强,全日分潮流其次,且比半日分潮流小得多;近岸浅水分潮流比远离岸显著。流速调和分析结果表明:潮流类型均为正规半日潮流,靠近岸的两个站浅水分潮流较显著;最显著的半日分潮流是M2分潮流,其最大流速介于0.32～0.48m/s之间,全日分潮流均很弱,最大流速小于0.06m/s。M2分潮流均为逆时针旋转,椭圆率越靠近海底越大;最大分潮流流速分布为中上层最大、表层略小、底层最小;最大分潮流流速方向的垂向变化很小,底层比表层略为偏左;最大分潮流流速到达时间随深度的加深而提前,底层比中上层约提前30min。潮流椭圆的垂向分布显示这里的半日分潮流以正压潮流为主;日分潮流则表现出很强的斜压性。     

海平面上升导致渤、黄、东海潮波变化的数值研究Ⅰ——现有的渤、黄、东海潮波的数值模拟

采用球面潮波运动基本方程,利用开边界强迫水位条件和考虑天体引潮力,对渤、黄、东海现有的潮波进行数值模拟。模拟包括19个理论系数最大的分潮波,其中半日潮波10个,全日潮波9个,对如此多数目的分潮波进行模拟是第一次尝试。模拟结果与实测资料作了比较。根据模拟获得的调和常数绘制了同潮图,并对潮波运动进行了讨论和分析。     

琼州海峡夏季三塘潮流谱分析和余流特征研究

无论潮流矢量是反时针旋转(f>0)还是顺时针旋转(f<0),全日潮谱峰都高于半日潮谱峰。2个半日潮周期分别为12、12.4h;2个日潮周期分别为23.9和25.8h;在半日潮和全日潮分量中,反时针分量是主要的:顺时针的半日潮能谱只有反时针的84%;顺时针的日潮能谱只有反时针的65%;浅水分潮6.2、8h和超过24h的3、4.2和5.5d等也有明显表现,但是都未通过显著性检验;夏季余流流速在5～10cm/s范围内变化,方向以南偏西为主。造成这种现象的首要的因素是夏季琼州海峡水交换基本态势和三塘附近海底地形,风对流向变化也有重要影响。     

Observed and modelled tidal currents in the New Zealand region

Tidal currents derived from current meter measurements are compared with the output from a barotropic tidal model of the New Zealand region. For the semi‐diurnal constituents there was very good agreement for the M₂ tide and good agreement for the S₂ tide. For the diurnal constituents (K_l, O_l) it was found that as the amplitude of the constituents decreased so did both the model/observation agreement and the accuracy of the observed tidal ellipse parameters. Consequently it was not possible to decide whether differences arose through shortcomings in the model or in the data. However, the overall performance of the model as a prognostic tool for ocean tidal current simulation appears to be good.