Fluctuations of peak energy and peak frequency of local wavelet energy spectrum for wind waves

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论风浪的局域结构──Ⅰ.风浪的局域结构与局域小波能谱

基于小波变换,引入了能刻画风浪局域结构的局域小波能谱。论述了风浪的整体结构与局域结构。指出了在不同时间尺度上,风浪具有不同的局域化特征。提出了风场演化过程中整体的共振在线性相互作用是否存在的质疑。     

稳定风浪场谱特征量间的关系

风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。     

风浪局域小波谱峰的涨落

将湍流研究中已得到有效应用的局域小波能谱概念引入到风浪研究.分析了实验室不同风速下风浪的局域小波能谱.结果表明,局域小波谱峰值存在着显着的涨落,涨落的方差随风速的增加而增大.这不仅体现了风浪的局域结构,还意味着通常风浪谱的应用中除了要考虑平均意义下的频谱峰值外,还必须考虑局域小波谱峰值的涨落方差.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

论风浪的局域结构──Ⅱ.风浪局域小波能谱的性质及应用

引入了局域小波能谱的局域间歇性度量,分析了不同风速下的风浪资料,结果表明,局域小波能谱可依局域频率分为三部分。风浪的群性在三维局域小波能谱图像下显示得更为明显,与风浪有关的一切性质都是局域的,包括风浪的群性。讨论了局域小波谱峰值与谱峰频率的涨落,指出了前者在工程设计中的重要意义,并发现了后者与风浪破碎有关的两种非线性现象。     

利用SWAN波浪模式研究北部湾海域台风浪场的波浪方向谱特征

以高精度再分析风场为驱动,利用SWAN模式模拟了台风“达维”Damrey（2005）经过北部湾海域时的波浪场。通过与实测的风和波浪实测对比发现,波浪后报结果与实测结果符合较好。文章给出了台风浪期间波高、周期、波长和波向等要素的分布特征,讨论了以台风眼为中心不同海域的波浪方向谱特征。本文最后分析了台风期间实测波浪能谱的变化特征。     

Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.     

Is the wind wave frequency spectrum outdated

This paper presents a detailed examination of the practice of using the frequency spectrum to characterize wind waves. In particular, the issue of stationarity and Gaussian random process in connection with wind wave studies is addressed. We describe a test for nonstationarity based on the wavelet spectrum. When this test is applied to wind wave time series, the results significantly diverge from those expected for a Gaussian random process, thus casting critical doubts on the conventional concept of the wind wave frequency spectrum.     

基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型

海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。     

CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves——Ⅰ. Spectrum of waves in growing phase

Owing to the fact that the wind speed and direction of typhoon vary rapidly with time and space in typhoon fetch; the nearer to the typhoon eye the greater the wind velocity, and the shorter the wind fetch the smaller the wind time,as a result,the more difficult for the wind wave to fully grow. Hence.in typhoon wave numerical calculation it is impossible to use the model for a fully grown wave spectrum. Lately, the author et at. presented a CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves, where a model for the growing wave spectrum was set up (see Eq. (2) in the text). The model involves a parameter indicating the growing degree of wind wave, i. e. ,the mean wave age β. When βvalue is small, the wave energy is chiefly concentrated near the peak frequency, so that the spectral peak gets high and steep; with the increase of β the spectral shape gradually gets lower and gentler; when β=Ⅰ, the wave fully grows, the growing spectrum becomes a fully grown P-M spectrum. The model also shows a spect     

风浪槽内风浪外频谱谱形的一些特征

利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。     

南麂海域大浪与大风的分布关系

本文根据南麂海洋站１９８３～１９８９年实测风和浪的资料，分析了大风和大浪的关系。结果表明：大浪日、大风日各月出现次数不匀。风浪大浪日及涌浪大浪日出现比率分别占５６％和４４％。各向大浪波高均值变化幅度不大。各向大浪波高极值却有较大差异。风浪Ｈ１／１０波高为１．５～２．０ｍ、当风速为１１～１３ｍ／ｓ时，大浪出现频率最高。本文还给出了波龄较大的风浪大浪波高与大风风速的经验关系。基于不同类型的台风路径，得到了本区从Ｈ１／１０波高为１．５ｍ以上时台风中心的位置。利用此结果可以预报本区大浪出现的时间。     

基于潜标测量的海洋环境噪声谱特性分析

利用海洋环境噪声测量潜标系统对南海典型海域开展了为期3个月的海洋环境噪声测量,16通道海洋环境噪声测量系统每小时测量两分钟噪声信号。数据处理结果表明,800~5 000Hz范围内,噪声谱与风速相关性最好,且风速越大相关性越好,噪声谱与风速的相关性好于与浪高的相关性。风关噪声谱级在海水中部基本不随接收深度发生变化,但由于测量水听器阵长度未能覆盖整个水深,因此未给出海面和海底处谱级变化规律。在400Hz以上的高频段整个风速范围内噪声谱级都随风速发生变化,且噪声谱级与对数风速具有很好的线性关系。     

Estimation of Wind Wave Frequency Spectra by Use of the Arcsine Law

In the present study,the surface elevation of wind waves oberved in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrum by use of the method of the arcsine law(MAL).The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL,presented by Yu and Lan(1979),uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation.66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan.Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra.Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method.The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.     

海浪外观统计与内部结构关系的数值研究

基于数值模拟的三维随机海面,从时间域和空间域两个角度对海浪的外观特征和内部结构间的关系进行了研究,得出了一些在工程应用上有参考价值的结果.文章认为,将波面看作是若干随机正弦波叠加的海浪结构模型,用于描述平稳、均匀和窄谱的海况时,其频谱分析结果与外观统计结果基本上是一致的;但是,当海面处于谱宽度较大的风浪或混合浪状态时,一些频谱分析结果必须经过修正才能应用.同一海况下,海面波动的时间过程和沿主波向的空间分布是明显不同的.当海面有突发性大浪时,外频谱能够很好地反映不平稳海况,而频谱则把这种不平稳性平滑了.文章着重讨论了波长和波陡的计算、频谱和外频谱的差异.     

具有A.K.Fung 海谱的粗糙海面电磁散射的微扰法研究

运用微扰法研究了平面电磁波入射随机粗糙面的电磁散射问题,得到了具有A.K.Fung海谱的粗糙海面散射截面的数学表达式,进一步得出了不同极化状态下散射系数的计算公式.通过数值计算得到了双站和单站两种情形下散射系数随散射角、风速、入射波频率变化的曲线,讨论了粗糙面高度起伏均方根、海水温度、风速、入射波频率对散射系数的影响,...     

Modulation of short wind waves by a long surface wave: a mechanism for feedback with an air flow

The paper concentrates on the evolution of a spectrum of short wind waves (SW) along the profile of a long surface wave (LW). Short wave spectral variations are considered in the relaxation approximation. The SW spectrum is modulated by the orbital velocities of long waves and by the variations of wind stress along the LW profile. The latter effect occurs due to wind flux perturbations induced by both the long wave proper and variations of the sea surface roughness induced by the SW modulations. To describe this effect, a feedback mechanism is introduces—the growth of energy of short waves results in the larger roughness of the sea surface, thereby contributing to the local wind stress, which facilitates, in turn, the growth of short waves. With moderate and strong winds being involved, this effect (aerodynamic feedback) is shown to be dominant in the short wave spectrum modulation. The mechanism becomes more efficient with intensification of the wind and decreasing of the long waves' frequency. Results of model calculations are in agreement with the known experimental data. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

基于海面多普勒谱模型的海浪反演精度分析

Microwave remote sensing is one of the most useful methods for observing the ocean parameters. The Doppler frequency or interferometric phase of the radar echoes can be used for an ocean surface current speed retrieval,which is widely used in spaceborne and airborne radars. While the effect of the ocean currents and waves is interactional. It is impossible to retrieve the ocean surface current speed from Doppler frequency shift directly. In order to study the relationship between the ocean surface current speed and the Doppler frequency shift, a numerical ocean surface Doppler spectrum model is established and validated with a reference. The input parameters of ocean Doppler spectrum include an ocean wave elevation model, a directional distribution function, and wind speed and direction. The suitable ocean wave elevation spectrum and the directional distribution function are selected by comparing the ocean Doppler spectrum in C band with an empirical geophysical model function(CDOP). What is more, the error sensitivities of ocean surface current speed to the wind speed and direction are analyzed. All these simulations are in Ku band. The simulation results show that the ocean surface current speed error is sensitive to the wind speed and direction errors. With VV polarization, the ocean surface current speed error is about 0.15 m/s when the wind speed error is 2 m/s, and the ocean surface current speed error is smaller than 0.3 m/s when the wind direction error is within 20° in the cross wind direction.     

Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth

The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h