Modelling the Quaternary evolution of shore platforms and erosional continental shelves

A mathematical model was used to investigate the effect of glacially induced fluctuations in sea level on the evolution of wave‐cut shore platforms and erosional continental shelves during the Quaternary. The model used two deep‐water wave sets, which were used to calculate breaker height and depth, and the force of the waves at the waterline, according to the width and bottom roughness of the surf zone and the gradient of the submarine slope. The model also incorporated an erosional threshold related to the strength of the rocks, the number of hours each year in which the water level is at each intertidal elevation and the amount and persistence of the debris at the cliff foot. Most runs were made using a sea level model that consisted of 26 glacial cycles from 2 million to 0·9 million years ago, and nine, of approximately twice the amplitude and wavelength, in the last 0·9 million years. The model emphasized the dynamic association between the contemporary intertidal platform and the continental shelf. Both surfaces trend towards a state of static equilibrium under oscillating sea level conditions, when attenuated waves are unable to continue eroding the rock. If there has not been enough time to reduce the gradient of the shallower portions of the continental shelf, however, intertidal shore platforms can be in a temporary, though possibly long‐lasting, state of dynamic equilibrium. The model suggests that most platforms are, at least in part, inherited from one, or in many cases more, interglacial stages when sea level was similar to today's. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The formation of beaches on shore platforms in microtidal environments

Beaches are common features of many rocky shorelines and can be considered to be constrained by the underlying geology. In mesotidal to macrotidal areas the slope of the substrate and sediment supply are the primary factors in constraining the size and development of beaches on shore platforms. In microtidal settings it is not known if these factors are wholly responsible for determining the presence of beaches on shore platforms, nor the contribution of other factors such as hydrodynamics. The microtidal coast of Victoria, Australia, is surveyed in this study in order to quantify the morphological boundary conditions that constrain beach development on semi‐horizontal shore platforms. An ample sediment supply indicates that the underlying geology is controlling the presence and absence of beaches. Where beaches occur they always overlie a rock ramp which is the steepest part of the platform. The two most important morphological constraints were platform width and height both of which significantly correlated with beach volume. An elevational threshold exists at just over +1.0 m where beaches cannot accumulate. Below this threshold, platform width appears to be the principle constraining factor in beach accumulation. An evolutionary model is inferred which suggests that dissipation of wave energy associated with platform widening plays an important role in allowing beaches to accumulate. The model suggests beaches on platforms will be particularly sensitive to sea level rise. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Rock coast inheritance: an example from Galicia,northwestern Spain

A shore platform on the western coast of Galicia in northwestern Spain has been inherited from interglacial stages when sea level was similar to today. The wide, gently sloping intertidal platform is backed in places by supratidal rock ledges, and in other places by a steeper and narrower supratidal ramp. The gradient of the intertidal platform is consistent with the relationship between platform gradient and tidal range, but the slope of the ramp is much too high. The abandoned and degraded sea cliff is grass-covered along most of this coast, and the ledges and the ramp, which extend up to several metres above the highest tides, are covered by lichen and, in places, by salt-tolerant plants. Radiocarbon-dated sediments in the cliff, which range up to 36 000 years in age, lie on top of an ancient beach deposit. The former beach, remnants of which are found in situ on the ramp and rock ledges, as well as two caves that are filled with the dated sediments, are probably last interglacial in age. The morphological and sedimentary evidence suggests that the supratidal ramp and ledges were also formed during the last interglacial stage, whereas the wider intertidal platform is probably the product of several older interglacials, when sea level was generally similar to today. A general model is proposed for the inheritance of shore platforms in macro- and microtidal environments. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Wave transformation across a macrotidal shore platform under low to moderate energy conditions

We investigate how waves are transformed across a shore platform as this is a central question in rock coast geomorphology. We present results from deployment of three pressure transducers over four days, across a sloping, wide (~200 m) cliff‐backed shore platform in a macrotidal setting, in South Wales, United Kingdom. Cross‐shore variations in wave heights were evident under the predominantly low to moderate (significant wave height < 1.4 m) energy conditions measured. At the outer transducer 50 m from the seaward edge of the platform (163 m from the cliff) high tide water depths were 8+ m meaning that waves crossed the shore platform without breaking. At the mid‐platform position water depth was 5 m. Water depth at the inner transducer (6 m from the cliff platform junction) at high tide was 1.4 m. This shallow water depth forced wave breaking, thereby limiting wave heights on the inner platform. Maximum wave height at the middle and inner transducers were 2.41 and 2.39 m, respectively, and significant wave height 1.35 m and 1.34 m, respectively. Inner platform high tide wave heights were generally larger where energy was up to 335% greater than near the seaward edge where waves were smaller. Infragravity energy was less than 13% of the total energy spectra with energy in the swell, wind and capillary frequencies accounting for 87% of the total energy. Wave transformation is thus spatially variable and is strongly modulated by platform elevation and the tidal range. While shore platforms in microtidal environments have been shown to be highly dissipative, in this macro‐tidal setting up to 90% of the offshore wave energy reached the landward cliff at high tide, so that the shore platform cliff is much more reflective. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hydrodynamic constraints and storm wave characteristics on a sub‐horizontal shore platform

Few studies of wave processes on shore platforms have addressed the hydrodynamic thresholds that control wave transformation and energy dissipation, especially under storm conditions. We present results of a field experiment conducted during a storm on a sub‐horizontal shore platform on the east coast of Auckland, New Zealand. Small (<0.5 m) locally generated waves typically occur at the field site, whereas during the experiment the offshore wave height reached 2.3 m. Our results illustrate the important control that platform morphology has on wave characteristics. At the seaward edge of the platform a scarp abruptly descends beneath low tide level. Wave height immediately seaward of the platform was controlled by the incident conditions, but near the cliff toe wave height on the platform was independent of incident conditions. Results show that a depth threshold at the seaward platform edge > 2.5 times the gravity wave height (0.05–0.33 Hz) is necessary for waves to propagate onto the platform without breaking. On the platform surface the wave height is a direct function of water depth, with limiting maximum wave height to water depth ratios of 0.55 and 0.78 at the centre of the platform and cliff toe, respectively. A relative ‘platform edge submergence’ (water depth/water height ratio) threshold of 1.1 is identified, below which infragravity (<0.05 Hz) wave energy dominates the platform energy spectra, and above which gravity waves are dominant. Infragravity wave height transformation across the platform is governed by the relative platform edge submergence. Finally, the paper describes the first observations of wave setup on a shore platform. During the peak of the storm, wave setup on the platform at low tide (0.21 m) is consistent with measurements from planar sandy beaches, but at higher tidal stages the ratio between incident wave height and maximum setup was lower than expected. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A proposed mechanism for storm beach sedimentation

One of the major problems of shingle beach dynamics is the method by which coarse gravel is transferred from beach face to storm beach, the latter often lying several metres above high spring tidal levels. The mechanism which is usually proposed, cites the action of plunging breakers as being central to this problem of sediment transfer. However, the nature of net residual fluid force of plunging breakers is deemed unsatisfactory for any substantial upbeach (onshore) sediment transport during storm conditions on gravel beaches. A mechanism is proposed by which high still water levels due to high astronomical tides, onshore storm force winds and allied wave surge, promote shoaling characteristics and beach profile changes which are conducive to spilling breaker development at tidal extremities. It is the net onshore fluid force vector of the spilling breaker overtopping the beach crest which may be the cause of extreme sedimentation events on the storm beach. An example of such sediment transfer is given for a known storm beach sedimentation event at Llanrhystyd gravel beach, West Wales, during February 1974. Process variables were monitored on several days allowing the use of an inshore breaker steepness criterion, to indicate positions in the tidal regime where plunging breakers give way to spilling forms. This example serves to suggest that more attention should be given to the nature and characteristics of shoaling waves, especially in respect of breaker type, when examining problems of shingle beach dynamics and sedimentation.     

The role of beach morphology on coastal cliff erosion under extreme waves

Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with H_s = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm^‐1 compared with 9 kWm^‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Sea stack formation and the role of abrasion on beach‐mantled headlands

Sea stacks are common and striking coastal landforms, but few details are known about how, how quickly, and under what conditions they form. We present numerical and analytical models of sea stack formation due to preferential erosion along a pre‐existing headland to address these basic questions. On sediment‐rich rocky coasts, as sea cliffs erode and retreat, they produce beach sediment that is distributed by alongshore sediment transport and controls future sea cliff retreat rates. Depending on their width, beaches can encourage or discourage sea cliff erosion by acting either as an abrasive tool or a protective cover that dissipates wave energy seaward of the cliff. Along the flanks of rocky headlands where pocket beaches are often curved and narrow due to wave field variability, abrasion can accelerate alongshore‐directed sea cliff erosion. Eventually, abrasion‐induced preferential erosion can cut a channel through a headland, separating it from the mainland to become a sea stack. Under a symmetrical wave climate (i.e. equal influence of waves approaching the coastline from the right and from the left), numerical and analytical model results suggest that sea stack formation time and plan‐view size are proportional to preferential erosion intensity (caused by, for example, abrasion and/or local rock weakness from joints, faults, or fractures) and initial headland aspect ratio, and that sea stack formation is discouraged when the sediment input from sea cliff retreat is too high (i.e. sea cliffs retreat quickly or are sand‐rich). When initial headland aspect ratio is too small, and the headland is ‘rounded’ (much wider in the alongshore direction at its base than at its seaward apex), the headland is less conducive to sea stack formation. On top of these geomorphic and morphologic controls, a highly asymmetrical wave climate decreases sea stack size and discourages stack formation through rock–sediment interactions. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach

Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.     

Spatial variability in beach biogeomorphology in a tropical archipelago

Beaches of tropical island coasts exhibit high levels of diversity in composition and form in comparison with their continental counterparts. To investigate the nature and origin of this diversity, individual beach morphology and sedimentology was investigated in the British Virgin Islands (BVI), a Caribbean archipelago of > 60 high volcanic and low reef islands. The islands exhibit a diversity of orientations (some facing the Atlantic and some the Caribbean), elevation and gradient, rock type and wave energy. An examination of 100 beaches in the archipelago revealed a first-order division into sand (70 beaches) and coral rubble (30 beaches). These beaches occur in seven planform types (determined by the antecedent geological framework) and are further subdivided according to shoreface type (seagrass, sandy shoreface, or reef). Mainland-attached headland-embayment beaches are the most common form of sand beach while coral rubble beaches usually occur as barriers that enclose salt ponds and wetlands. Among sand beaches, carbonate content is greatest on Atlantic-facing beaches, and coral rubble beaches are more common on Caribbean-facing beaches. Grain size characteristics on sandy beaches are highly variable and range from fine to very coarse sands while coral rubble beaches range up to boulder-sized clasts. The local source material is a primary determinant of sediment composition. The local factors such as the underlying geology, source and availability of sediments are the primary determinants of beach form, composition and texture in the BVI. Oceanographic and climatic conditions such as the prevailing easterly trade winds and waves which seasonally range in direction from east-northeast to southeast as well as beach orientation to Atlantic- or Caribbean-facing waves also contribute to the variability, but in a secondary role. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Submarine platform development by erosion of a Surtseyan cone at Capelinhos,Faial Island,Azores

Erosion of volcanic islands ultimately creates shallow banks and guyots, but the ways in which erosion proceeds to create them over time and how the coastline retreat rate relates to wave conditions, rock mass strength and other factors are unclear. The Capelinhos volcano was formed in 1957/58 during a Surtseyan and partly effusive eruption that added an ~2.5 km² tephra and lava promontory to the western end of Faial Island (Azores, central North Atlantic). Subsequent coastal and submarine erosion has reduced the subaerial area of the promontory and created a submarine platform. This study uses historical information, photos and marine geophysical data collected around the promontory to characterize how the submarine platform developed following the eruption. Historical coastline positions are supplemented with coastlines interpreted from 2004 and 2014 Google Earth images in order to work out the progression of coastline retreat rate and retreat distance for lava- and tephra-dominated cliffs. Data from swath mapping sonars are used to characterize the submarine geometry of the resulting platform (position of the platform edge, gradient and morphology of the platform surface). Photographs collected during SCUBA and ROV dives on the submarine platform reveal a rugged surface now covered with boulders. The results show that coastal retreat rates decreased rapidly with time after the eruption and approximately follow an inverse power-law relationship with coastal retreat distance. We develop a finite-difference model for wave attenuation over dipping surfaces to predict how increasing wave attenuation contributed to this trend. The model is verified by reproducing the wave height variation over dipping rock platforms in the UK (platform gradient 1.2° to 1.8°) and Ireland (1.8°). Applying the model to the dipping platform around Capelinhos, using a diversity of cliff resistance predicted from known lithologies, we are able to predict erosion rate trends for some sectors of the edifice. We also explore wider implications of these results, such as how erosion creates shallow banks and guyots in reef-less mid-oceanic archipelagos like the Azores. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Late Holocene seacliff retreat recorded by 10Be profiles across a coastal platform: Theory and example from the English Channel

We explore a new method for documenting the long-term retreat rate of seacliffs based on measurements and modeling of ¹⁰Be concentration transects across present-day shore platforms. The proposed forward numerical model relies on a scenario of sea-level rise since the last deglaciation, and predicts the shape of ¹⁰Be concentration transects as a function of prescribed cliff recession and vertical coastal platform downwearing rates. Two independent transect features allow fitting the long-term recession rate model to field observations: a sharp ¹⁰Be concentration drop predicted at the former stationary location of the cliff during the last glacial period ∼100 ka ago, and a characteristic dome shape whose magnitude is directly related to the recession rate of the cliff. A retreating chalk cliff site from the English Channel coast of France, at Mesnil-Val, where the 7 m tidal range broadly exposes the shore platform, was selected to test the proposed method. Although retreat rates were too high to pinpoint the predicted ¹⁰Be concentration drop at the last glacial cliff position, the ¹⁰Be concentration of the flints sampled across the shore platform is consistent with the expected dome shape. When modeled using the proper tidal range and proposed Holocene sea-level rise history, the ¹⁰Be data yield a cliff retreat rate since the mid-Holocene of 11–13 cm/yr. This is consistent with a 30-year-long measurement record, strongly supporting the utility of the ¹⁰Be method.     

Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms

Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence, characteristics and behaviour of IGWs on rock platform coasts. Data was collected using a cross‐shore array of pressure transducers during a 22 hour experiment on Oraka shore platform and a 36 hour experiment at Rothesay Bay shore platform. A low pass Fourier filter was used to remove gravity wave frequency oscillations, allowing separate analysis of IGWs and the full wave spectrum. Offshore IGW heights were measured to be 7 cm (Oraka) and 9 cm (Rothesay Bay), which were 21% (Oraka) and 7.5% (Rothesay Bay) the height of incident wave height. At the cliff toe, significant IGW height averaged 15 cm at Oraka and 13 cm at Rothesay Bay. This increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling of 40 to 55% over the last 50–60 m before the cliff toe, respectively. Shoaling across the platform was quantified as the change in IGW height from the platform edge to cliff toe, resulting in a maximum increase of 1·88 and 2·63 on Rothesay Bay and Oraka platforms. IGW height at the cliff toe showed a strong correlation with incident wave height. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Greater IGW shoaling was also observed on the wider (Oraka) shore platform. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Embryo dune development drivers: beach morphology,growing season precipitation,and storms

For development of embryo dunes on the highly dynamic land–sea boundary, summer growth and the absence of winter erosion are essential. Other than that, however, we know little about the specific conditions that favour embryo dune development. This study explores the boundary conditions for early dune development to enable better predictions of natural dune expansion. Using a 30 year time series of aerial photographs of 33 sites along the Dutch coast, we assessed the influence of beach morphology (beach width and tidal range), meteorological conditions (storm characteristics, wind speed, growing season precipitation, and temperature), and sand nourishment on early dune development. We examined the presence and area of embryo dunes in relation to beach width and tidal range, and compared changes in embryo dune area to meteorological conditions and whether sand nourishment had been applied. We found that the presence and area of embryo dunes increased with increasing beach width. Over time, embryo dune area was negatively correlated with storm intensity and frequency. Embryo dune area was positively correlated with precipitation in the growing season and sand nourishment. Embryo dune area increased in periods of low storm frequency and in wet summers, and decreased in periods of high storm frequency or intensity. We conclude that beach morphology is highly influential in determining the potential for new dune development, and wide beaches enable development of larger embryo dune fields. Sand nourishment stimulates dune development by increasing beach width. Finally, weather conditions and non‐interrupted sequences of years without high‐intensity storms determine whether progressive dune development will take place. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Stacks and notches at Hopewell Rocks,New Brunswick,Canada

Spectacular rock formations have developed in coarse, poorly sorted conglomerates and arkosic sandstones at Hopewell Rocks in the Bay of Fundy, which has the largest tidal range in the world. The average gradient of the shore platform is 3.2°, although it varies because of slight differences in rock hardness. Schmidt Rock Test Hammer measurements show that the rock is generally no more resistant in 16 stacks and in one stack-arch than in the adjacent platform and cliff. Most stacks, arch-tunnels and caves in this area result from dissection of the rock mass along prominent, well-spaced joint planes. Old photographs suggest that the stacks at Hopewell Rocks may have developed in the last 100 to 250 years. Notches are ubiquitous at the cliff foot, and they are responsible for the characteristic mushroom-shaped appearance of the stacks. Although there is no consistent relationship between the depth of notches on the seaward and landward sides of the stacks, the notches are at higher elevations on the seaward side. The deepest part of most notches is a little below the mean high tidal level, although several are up to 1 or 2 m below it, especially on the landward side of stacks. Stack morphology and notch depth change in a fairly predictable manner through time, as the stacks become increasingly isolated from the cliff. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Sea‐cliff retreat and shore platform widening: steady‐state equilibrium?

We challenge the notion of steady‐state equilibrium in the context of progressive cliff retreat on micro‐tidal coasts. Ocean waves break at or close to the abrupt seaward edge of near‐horizontal shore platforms and then rapidly lose height due to turbulence and friction. Conceptual models assume that wave height decays exponentially with distance from the platform edge, and that the platform edge does not erode under stable sea‐level. These assumptions combine to a steady‐state view of Holocene cliff retreat. We argue that this model is not generally applicable. Recent data show that: (1) exponential decay in wave height is not the most appropriate conceptual model of wave decay; (2) by solely considering wave energy at gravity wave frequencies the steady‐state model neglects a possible formative role for infragravity waves. Here we draw attention to possible mechanisms through which infragravity waves may drive cliff retreat over much greater distances (and longer timescales) than imaginable under the established conceptual model. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A wave tank experiment on the erosional mechanism at a cliff base

A laboratory experiment using a two-dimensional wave tank was designed to investigate the mechanism of erosion at a cliff base by waves armed with rock fragments. The experiment was performed under constant wave conditions by systematically changing the amount of beach sand at the foot of steep model cliffs of the same slope and strength. Cliff erosion occurred when the beach material at the cliff/beach junction was moved by waves. Turbulence created by bores rushing up on the beach mobilized the sand and exerted a mechanical shearing force on the cliff face using the sand as an abrasive. The analysis of results indicated that the effect of the abrasive doubled when the cliff/beach junction was located above Still Water Level (SWL) as compared to when it was below SWL. The assailing force of the sediment-laden water masses was proportional to the square of the bore speed immediately in front of the cliff face. The factor of proportionality is related to the quantity of beach sand entrapped in the turbulent fluid.     

Links between wave forcing,offshore islands and a macro‐tidal headland‐bound bay beach

Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.