Transformation of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

- Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.     

Experimental Study of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

Wave energy spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel in combination with irregular wave- maker. Fetch length is successfully extended and by "Relay" method the corresponding spectrum pattern and the wind velocity scale are obtained.     

Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water

The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data.     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

Nonlinear Wave Force on Pier Group in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the wave diffraction around the pier group inshallow water is studied in this paper. The formulas for calculating the nonlinear wave forces are also presented here. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted in the wave flume in The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering located in Dalian University of Technology. The range of the wave parameters in the experiments is characteristic wave period T g/d~(1/2) = 8.08- 22.86, characteristic wave height H/ d= 0.1 ~ 0.45. The results obtained from the experiments agree with the theoretical results quite well. It is shown that, in shallow water the nonlinear wave forces acting on a pier group are greater than those calculated by linear wave theory, the value of increment in wave force increases with the increases of the nonlinearity of the wave. In the wave range studied in this paper, the nonlinear wave force can reach over 4 times the force calculatecd by linear wave theory. Thus, it is suggested that, when Tg / d~(1/2)> 8, the wave force on the piers in the pier group in shallow water should be calculated by using the cnoidal wave theory.     

浅水潮波模式变分同化共轭码技术研究

以浅水潮波模式为例，详细讨论了共轭码技术的使用方法以及代码检验，并建立了海洋浅水模式的共轭模式。利用浅水潮波模式及其共轭模式进行了流速和水位的初始场优化试验。试验结果表明，初始场优化对于潮波系统数值模拟具有重要的作用，同时也说明利用共轭码技术可以有效地设计共轭模式，进行各种同化试验研究，显示了共轭码技术的诸多优点。     

变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算

深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。     

基于第三代浅水波浪模型的海区泥沙骤淤数值预报及工程应用

在简要介绍现有近岸波浪数值模型的基础上,对应用了最新波浪研究成果、适用于海岸、湖泊和河口地区的第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型的研究和应用进行了详细论述。通过该模型数值计算得到黄程山局部区域不同风向的有效波高分布,将模型与海区泥沙骤淤机理相结合,进而得到整个区域平均含沙量的分布,并数值预报近岸区域骤淤量随时间的变化,研究成果可为海区大风浪情况下骤淤预报提供理论指导,本文最后讨论了泥沙骤淤计算模型未来发展的趋势。     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

A Pull-Up Shallow Water Seismometer

An inexpensive Pull-Up Shallow Water Seismometer (PUSS) has been designed and built to conduct long range seismic refraction experiments in the North Sea and the continental shelf around Britain, with the particular goal of studying the crustal and lithospheric structure under the epeirogenic basin of the North Sea. Signals from a gimbal-mounted 3-component geophone and a hydrophone are frequency modulated and mixed with clock and flutter correction signals before being recorded on a standard speed cassette tape recorder, with one hour of recording time. A 100 hour programmable timer allows the interval between the time of reset of the clock and each shot window of optional 5 or 10 min duration, to be preselected. The PUSS is launched and recovered using a pull-up technique originally developed for current meters. The replay system is also described.In May 1976 sea trials of 5 PUSSes were conducted along a 200 km refraction line in the North Sea. The encouraging performance of the equipment resulted in the decision to build a further 10 units and to proceed with a 400 km refraction line planned for the summer of 1977.     

Model Tests Research on A Float-Over Barge in Shallow Water Under the Undocking Conditions

In this study, the Jinzhou 9-3 CEPD float-over installation project was investigated. During the undocking condition, the water depth of the motion path of the working barge gradually changed from 10.31 m to 9.41 m. The undocking clearance of the HYSY 228 is smaller than 1 m; therefore, the barge shows highly nonlinear hydrodynamic characteristics, and it is difficult to be accurately simulated by numerical analysis. Thus, it is necessary to obtain the hydrodynamic characteristics and laws of the float-over barge at different water depths by using tank model test, to provide some reference and guidance for float-over operations in shallow water.

     

Refraction-Diffraction Model for Irregular Wave and Directional Spectrum Considering Current

- A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented based on the time series concept, by a typical frequency and its deviation part. Numerical results, compared with those of laboratory experiments, demonstrate that new set of irregular mild slope equation with current is of good adaptability.     

基于COS-2S模型的ADCP海浪方向谱估计

美国RD公司声学多普勒流速剖面仪(ADCP)使用的波向估计算法是迭代的最大似然算法(IMLM),IMLM可以准确估计出主浪向,但波向估计结果在主浪向以外其他方向上存在由噪声带来的能量分布,使得估计结果变得不准确。设计了基于COS-2S模型的波向估计方法,模型中只含有主波向,算法在准确估计主波向同时有效去除其他方向上噪声带来的能量分布。将一种混合遗传算法(HGA)代替遗传算法(GA)应用到波浪模型的参数求解中,HGA相对GA收敛更快,可有效找出全局最优解。仿真分析和实测数据表明,HGA和IMLM都能准确估计出波浪的主浪向,但HGA可有效去除主浪向以外其他方向上噪声带来的能量分布,HGA比IMLM更加适用于海洋各种噪声存在条件下的测量环境。     

Wave Reflection Coefficient Spectrum

1 .IntroductionWavereflectionfromstructuresisanimportantfactorforthedesignofthestructures .Therehavebeenmanyresearchesonwavereflectionwithregularwavesandmonochromaticirregularwaves .Miche( 1 951 )proposedanon dimensionalMichenumberMfornormallyincidentirregularwavesconsideringwavebreakingbecauseofthedeepeningofwavesteepnessontheslopeofbreakwaters .ThereflectioncoefficientisproportionaltoM ,i.e .,Kr ∝M =4g( 2π) 5/ 2tan5/ 2 α(Hsf2p) ( 1 )wheregisthegravitationalacceleration ,Hsthesignifican…     

Simulation of Wetting and Drying Processes in A Depth Integrated Shallow Water Flow Model by Slot Method

A particular porosity method named ＂slot method＂ is implemented in a depth-integrated shallow water flow model （DIVAST） to simulate wetting and drying processes. Discussed is the relationship between the shape factors of the ＂slot＂ and the preset depth used in ＂wetting-drying＂ algorithm. Two typical tests are conducted to examine the performance of the method with the effect of the shape factors of the ＂slot＂ being checked in detail in the first test. Numerical results demonstrate that： 1 ） no additional effort to improve the finite difference scheme is needed to implement ＂slot method＂ in DIVAST, and 2） ＂slot method＂ will simulate wetting and diying processes correctly if the shape factors of the ＂slot＂ being selected properly.     

A 3-D Numerical Model for the Calculation of Water Wave Transformation in Large Area

Based on the integral equation transformed from three dimensional Laplace equation and by the adoption of the division manner of sub- region boundary element method, the numerical computations of the velocity potential of each sub-region are given considering the continuity conditions of potential and normal derivatives at the interface of sub-regions. Therefore, computation of wave deformation in offshore flow field is realized. The present numerical model provides a good solution for the application of boundary element method to the calculation of wave deformation in large areas.     

海底散射模型对浅海混响的影响研究

对于混响预报,散射强度是一个相当重要的物理量。在波束位移射线简正波理论的基础上推导了浅海混响模型,仿真比较了负跃层浅海情况四种海底散射模型对应的混响衰减曲线,结果表明海底散射模型对浅海混响的影响较为显著。     

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th     

基于ARMA模型的海浪功率谱估计方法研究

针对经典功率谱估计方法的一些缺点,对随即海浪过程进行了ARMA谱估计的仿真研究,仿真的结果表明ARMA功率谱估计方法在分辨率、平滑和偏差等方面更加有效。     

非匀质波场波向响应模式

本文基于波能平衡方程,通过考虑波浪传播项,即［Ｃｇ（ｆ,θ）Ｅ（ｆ,θ）］ ≠０ ,理论上导出了非匀质波场波向对变风向的响应模式;研究了波场非匀质性对波向响应的影响;导出了有限风区波浪产生的非匀质情形下平均波向与无因次风区的关系;同时还进行了某些讨论。