In-line response of vertical cylinders in regular and random waves

The in-line response of a vertical flexibly mounted cylinder in regular and random waves is reported.Both theoretical analyses and experimental measurements have been performed.The theoretical predictions are based on the Morison equation which is solved by the incremental harmonic balance method.Experiments are then performed in a wave flume to determine the accuracy of the Morison equation in predicting the in-line response of the cylinder in regular and random waves.The interaction between waves and vibrating cylinders are investigated.     

不同破碎波对沙质海床作用的实验研究

破碎波对近海海岸地形以及海岸建筑物影响强烈,通过物理模型实验对孤立波、规则波作用下破碎带的床面形态以及孔隙水压力进行分析。破碎波冲击海床,破碎处床面上形成沙坝和沙坑,与规则波相比,孤立波破碎时对床面的冲刷更加剧烈,床面形成的沙坝和沙坑尺度更大,且土体内孔隙水压力幅值也较大。同时研究了波面变化对孔隙水压力的影响,发现波面变化历时曲线与孔隙水压力历时曲线相似,与孔隙水压力梯度历时曲线更为相似,说明波面变化更能反映海床内部孔隙水压力梯度的变化。通过探讨波浪与海床之间相互耦合作用,发现破碎带地形变化使得波浪出现不同破碎类型,分析得出卷破波比崩破波作用下孔隙水压力幅值大。     

Prediction of breaking waves with neural networks

The height of a wave at the time of its breaking, as well as the depth of water in which it breaks, are the two basic parameters that are required as input in design exercises involving wave breaking. Currently the designers obtain these values with the help of graphical procedures and empirical equations. An alternative to this in the form of a neural network is presented in this paper. The networks were trained by combining the existing deterministic relations with a random component. The trained network was validated with the help of fresh laboratory observations. The validation results confirmed usefulness of the neural network approach for this application. The predicted breaking height and water depth were more accurate than those obtained traditionally through empirical schemes. Introduction of a random component in network training was found to yield better forecasts in some validation cases.     

Displacements induced by breaking waves on axially loaded cylindrical shells

Forced vibrations of the walls of a vertical cylindrical shell under the impact of a breaking wave are studied theoretically. The wave action is modelled as a pressure distribution which varies in time and space. A linear dynamic analysis of the transient response is carried out by means of the modal superposition technique, in which the static stresses are considered. The results show that in thin shells, the transient displacements could be of the order of the thickness of the shell. It is suggested that these large displacements could play an important role in eroding the buckling capacity of the structural component. The problem of limiting the dynamic displacements is discussed by interaction diagrams for static axial load-dynamic lateral pressure, and by examination of the confluence of shell and wave parameters for which the transient displacements do not exceed a given value.     

Harbor resonance induced by subaerial landslide-generated impact waves

Past studies of harbor resonance have mainly been restricted to the quasi-steady oscillations induced by steady wave conditions. This paper investigates the response of a rectangular harbor to subaerial landslide-generated impact waves based on physical models, in order to compare the oscillations induced by steady and transient waves. In response to steady incident waves, oscillations within the harbor need to experience a long process to obtain their maximum value before the input energy and the losses are balanced. Landslide-generated impact waves usually include components with solitary wave characteristics and also components with dispersive wave characteristics. Each component travels with a different celerity. Usually, solitary wave components propagate faster, and arrive in the harbor first. Oscillations attain their maximum status as soon as these components arrive. The subsequently arriving components with dispersive characteristics do not enhance the resonance oscillations. So the waves with solitary characteristics are considered to play an important role in harbor resonance. Numerical experiments, using the FUNWAVE model, were conducted in order to further verify these conclusions.     

潜堤上破碎波浪传播变形的数值模型及其验证

为模拟潜堤上破碎波浪传播时产生能量的耗散这一特性,在改进的具有四阶色散的Boussinesq水波方程中中入二阶紊动粘性项,建立了考虑波浪破碎的水波数学模型.在非交错网格下建立了有限差分数值模型,并利用三阶Adams-Bash forth格式预报、四阶Adams-Mouton格式校正对数值模型进行求解.通过数值试验,模拟...     

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

Impact pressure of breaking waves on vertical and sloping walls

Laboratory tests are conducted to measure the impact pressures of breaking waves on vertical, 5° forward, and 5, 10, 20, 30, and 45° backward sloping walls. The base structure of the wall has a foreshore slope of . Regular waves are used throughout the experiments for all wall angles. The maximum impact pressures on the wall are shown to satisfy the log-normal probability distribution. It is found from the present experiments that the impact pressures and resulting forces on sloping walls can be greater than those on a vertical wall. On the seven different walls tested, the maximum impact pressures occur most frequently slightly below the still-water level. The pattern of the impact pressure history does not change with the slope of the wall, and as the probability of maximum impact pressure decreases, the pressures around the peak pressure region of the impact pressure histories remain longer.     

Dynamic pressure distribution on large circular cylinders caused by wind generated random waves

A technique has been developed to evaluate the dynamic pressures on cylindrical structures due to irregular waves based on McCamy and Fuchs linear diffraction theory and principle of superposition. Experiments have been conducted in Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras to examine the dynamic pressures excited by irregular waves on circular cylinders of large diameter. The pressures around the cylinder at representative locations were measured and compared with calculated pressures. The spectral density functions computed from pressure time series measured in the laboratory agree well with the calculated pressure spectral densities. The agreement is good and encouraging.     

基于高阶边界元的三维数值波浪港池--波浪破碎的模拟

在势流理论的框架内,采用高阶边界元方法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日法,实现了对三维波浪破碎过程的数值模拟.数值模型使用可调节时间步长的基于二阶显式泰勒展开的混合欧拉-拉格郎日时间步进来求解自由表面的演化过程.在所使用的边界元方法中,采用16节点三次滑移四边形单元来表示,这种单元在单元内具有高阶的精度同时在单元之间具有良好的连续性.给出了孤立波的传播和周期性非线性波浪沿缓坡传播的计算结果,表明数值模型具有良好的稳定性.     

Modelling ocean waves in ice-covered seas

Over the past decade there has been a rapid growth of interest in wave propagation through ice covers. This paper summarizes the author’s observation of the modeling efforts on this topic. Models can be theory-based, data-driven, or a combination of the two. A pure data-driven model relies on a large amount of observations and is only becoming available recently. Theory-based models on the other hand have a long history. They are always a simplified version of the reality. As our knowledge grows, theories become more complicated. A theory for waves-in-ice that captures all possible processes does not exist. However, when integrated with observation through calibration, these combined theory + data-based models may be used with some confidence. In this paper, different models, their basic concepts, their calibration and validation are discussed. The present theory-based models do not have the correct spectral attenuation trend as observed from field or laboratory experiments. Hence, through calibration they may fit different parts of the wave spectra but not all. Pure data-driven models can reproduce the correct trend, but its dependability outside the situation where the data are collected is uncertain. In addition to offering tools to forecast waves-in-ice, these model building and validating efforts point to missing mechanisms that should be carefully studied. Despite the many challenges towards building a satisfactory general waves-in-ice model, significant progress has been made for models that work reasonably well in the marginal ice zone. We anticipate much more data will become available in the coming years to help us improve the existing models.     

透空式水平板波浪上托力冲击压强试验研究

首先对以往波浪作用下透空式平板上托力研究进行了回顾,在此基础上,通过系列模型试验,对波浪上托力产生的机理进行了详细的分析和论述,认为透空式平板下波浪上托力主要由一个迅速上升的冲击压强和一个缓慢变化的压强构成,其中冲击压强通常远大于缓变压强,起主导作用,影响其大小的最直接因素为几何因素(即波浪冲击角)、动力因素(包括波高、波速等)和空气垫层因素,由此通过对各影响因素的分析,得到最大冲击压强计算公式,大量试验资料表明,该公式与实验值有着较好的一致性。     

Laboratory study of deep-water breaking waves

In an attempt to elucidate the mechanics of deep-water wave breaking, a variety of breaking waves, including spilling and plunging waves, of different length scales and geometries was studied. The waves were generated through wave-wave interactions using wave packets with constant-steepness components, constant-amplitude components, and also components following the Pierson-Moskowitz distribution. Wave steepening prior to breaking were found to cause an increase in the high frequency spectral slope of the wave spectrum. The slopes were correlated to the type of breaking and the intensity of the breaking. The energy loss through breaking varied with the spectral characteristics of the wave packet. On the other hand, it was also noted that, irrespective of the wave packet, the losses were from the higher frequency end of the first harmonics.     

Interaction of cnoidal waves with an array of vertical concentric porous cylinders

An array of large concentric porous cylinder arrays is mounted in shallow water exposed to cnoidal waves. The interactions between waves and cylinders are studied theoretically using an eigenfunction expansion approach. Semi-analytical solutions of hydrodynamic loads and wave run-up on each cylinder are obtained using first approximation to cnoidal waves. The square array configuration of four-legged identical concentric porous cylinder is investigated in present study. Numerical results reveal the variation of dimensionless wave force and wave run-up on individual cylinder with angle of incidence, porosity parameter, spacing between outer and inner cylinders, spacing between concentric porous cylinders and wave parameter. Different mechanism of wave force is found under different range of scattering parameter.     

Scour below pipelines and around vertical piles in random waves

An approach by which the scour depth and scour width below a fixed pipeline and scour depth around a circular vertical pile in random waves can be derived is presented. Here, the scour depth formulas by Sumer and Fredsøe [ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 116 (1990) 307] for pipelines and Sumer et al. [ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 114 (1992) 599] for vertical piles as well as the scour width formula by Sumer and Fredsøe [The Mechanics of Scour in the Marine Environment, World Scientific, Singapore, 2002] for pipelines combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process are used to derive the cumulative distribution functions of the scour depths and width. Comparisons are made between the present approach and random wave scour data. Tentative approaches to related random wave scour cases are also suggested.     

可控深水破碎波的实验室生成方法研究

实验室一般采用波浪聚焦方法生成深水破碎波,通过各组分波浪的波幅叠加生成一个波高显著增大的大波,使其波陡超过极限波陡发生破碎。利用该方法生成深水破碎波浪的破碎次数通常并不唯一,导致波浪破碎后的流场特征不明显;造波参数不易于选取导致研究工况的设置难度大,直接影响深水破碎精细化实验的效果和效率。本文采用聚焦波理论计算波面,并利用上跨零点法定义的波高和波长计算理论波陡,结合物理模型实验统计波浪沿程破碎次数与剧烈程度,研究以JONSWAP谱为造波输入谱型时,聚焦波幅、谱峰频率、频宽等造波输入参数对于波浪破碎情况的影响,从而建立深水波浪破碎次数与造波输入参数之间的近似定量关系,为实验造波参数的选取提供参考,提高实验效率。     

Surface tension effects on energy dissipation by small scale,experimental breaking waves

Much of the existing knowledge about breaking waves comes from physical model experiments scaled using Froude's law. A widely held assumption is that surface tension effects are not significant at typical laboratory scales and specifically for waves longer than 2 m. Since, however, smaller wavelengths are not untypical in small to medium scale laboratory facilities, a consideration of surface tension effects is indeed important. Although some emphasis has been given in the past, little is known regarding the importance of surface tension following impingement of the breaking-wave crest and especially on the overall energy dissipation by laboratory breaking waves.     

可渗透海床单桩孤立波破碎波浪力数值研究

当波浪传播至近岸浅水区时易发生破碎,波浪破碎后水体直接拍击单桩结构,其波浪作用力显著增大,可能导致结构失稳破坏。首先建立包括斜坡海床的数值波浪水槽,并与已有研究进行对比验证。进而开展考虑斜坡海床可渗透性的孤立波数值模拟,分析孤立波传播与浅水化破碎特征,着重研究竖直单桩上破碎波浪力的特性,及其与单桩位置、海床渗透率的关联性。数值研究发现:对于低渗透率海床,随着单桩位置由深水向岸线位置变动,其所受波浪力先增后减,所受波浪力最大的桩体位置随海床渗透率增加而从波浪破碎点前方移动至破碎点后1D处,而在高渗透率海床上不同位置处桩体所受波浪力均较小;随海床渗透率等梯度增加,海床消波作用逐渐增强,波浪破碎进程延缓,波浪破碎点向岸线方向加速移动,单桩上破碎波浪力呈整体下降趋势,但可能因波浪破碎点的位置变动导致部分位置桩体所受波浪力异常增大。     

Theoretical and experimental study of breaking wave on sloping bottoms

This paper studies the continuous evolution of breaking wave for the surface water waves propagating on a sloping beach. A Lagrangian asymptotic solution is derived. According to the solution coupled with the wave breaking criteria and the equations of water particles motion, the wave deformation and the continuous wave breaking processes for the progressive water waves propagating on a sloping bottom can be derived. A series of experiments are also conducted to compare with the theoretical solution. The results show that the present solution can reasonably describe the plunging or spilling wave breaking phenomenon.