Placer Deposits of Southern Tamil Nadu Coast, India

Exploration for placer deposits, especially for ilmenites, has been undertaken systematically in the southern coast of Tamil Nadu, India. On the basis of drainage network. Coastal landforms, lithology, and neotectonics, the study area has been grouped into five sectors: Mandapam, Valinokkam, Tuticorin, Manappad, and Kanyakumari. Ilmenites are abundant in Kanyakumari (Max. 53.39 wt%) and Tuticorin (Max. 20.88 wt%) sectors, negligible in Manappad (Max. 0.60 wt%) and Valinokkam (Max. 3.88 wt%) sectors and absent in the Mandapam sector. The abnormal enrichment of ilmenites in the Kanyakumari sector in the absence of any drainage network points to the possibility of a relict source. Literary and scientific evidence corroborates the existence of an Eastern Gondwana land called Lemuria, South of Kanyakumari which was later submerged in the Flandrian transgression. The association of other heavy minerals with ilmenites like overgrown and outgrown zircon supplements the idea of a longer stay of ilmenites in the depositional basin. Ilmenites from these fossil strandlines must have been reworked by the present day coastal processes and deposited in favorable bay-like NE-SW coastal configurations in Kanyakumari-Kuttankuli and Kallar-Vaippar regions under high energy wave conditions. The present study has disclosed the enrichment of ilmenites up to 1 m in depth in the above two zones which can be commercially exploited. The present study also calls for confirming part of the lost continent called Lemuria or Eastern Gondwana by systematic scientific investigations.     

Placer Deposits of Southern Tamil Nadu Coast,India

Exploration for placer deposits, especially for ilmenites, has been undertaken systematically in the southern coast of Tamil Nadu, India. On the basis of drainage network. Coastal landforms, lithology, and neotectonics, the study area has been grouped into five sectors: Mandapam, Valinokkam, Tuticorin, Manappad, and Kanyakumari. Ilmenites are abundant in Kanyakumari (Max. 53.39 wt%) and Tuticorin (Max. 20.88 wt%) sectors, negligible in Manappad (Max. 0.60 wt%) and Valinokkam (Max. 3.88 wt%) sectors and absent in the Mandapam sector. The abnormal enrichment of ilmenites in the Kanyakumari sector in the absence of any drainage network points to the possibility of a relict source. Literary and scientific evidence corroborates the existence of an Eastern Gondwana land called Lemuria, South of Kanyakumari which was later submerged in the Flandrian transgression. The association of other heavy minerals with ilmenites like overgrown and outgrown zircon supplements the idea of a longer stay of ilmenites in the depositional basin. Ilmenites from these fossil strandlines must have been reworked by the present day coastal processes and deposited in favorable bay-like NE-SW coastal configurations in Kanyakumari-Kuttankuli and Kallar-Vaippar regions under high energy wave conditions. The present study has disclosed the enrichment of ilmenites up to 1 m in depth in the above two zones which can be commercially exploited. The present study also calls for confirming part of the lost continent called Lemuria or Eastern Gondwana by systematic scientific investigations.     

我国海啸灾害及预警现状与建议

本文给出了海啸定义及其它有关概念与术语,简要给出了我国及全球的海啸灾害.全面介绍了我国海啸监测能力、预警现状、研究成果以及有关国际合作的情况,重点介绍了我国自主研制的海啸数值模式,利用该模式我们模拟了2004年12月26日发生在印度洋大海啸以及假想的发生在我国南海的海啸对周边国家的影响.对海啸预警中存在的问题及未来急需开展的工作,作者也将一一给予阐述.     

海啸波数值模拟的研究现状

介绍海啸特点及主要分布状况,对比现在常用的海啸模拟数学模型,并分析数值模拟海啸的研究中存在的问题及研究进展,最后提出对未来进行精确的海啸数值模拟研究的一些展望。     

Erosion and sedimentation in Kalpakkam (N Tamil Nadu, India) from the 26th December 2004 tsunami

Laterally extensive sand sheets deposited by the 26th December 2004 Asian tsunami provide a valuable modern analogue for comparison with wash over deposits of unknown origin. In many places on the east coast of India, distinct deposits of marine sand drape the landscape and overlie the muddy soils of the coastal plain. This paper discusses detailed measurements of coastal topography, tsunami flow height, and deposit thickness made at Kalpakkam, India. Five transects were examined in detail to assess the sedimentology and spatial distribution of the tsunami deposit. Near the mean water line, the tsunami eroded approximately 10–25 cm of sand from the beach and berm. At Kalpakkam the sand sheet deposited by the tsunami begins 25 m from the shore extending 420 m inland where it becomes thin and patchy approximately 30 m from the limit of inundation. In some cases, the deposit consists of 2 to 4 normally graded units, with coarse sand near the base and fine sand at the top, a characteristic observed in many tsunami deposits worldwide. In many places, the deposits also contain numerous thin laminated units, a characteristic usually associated with storm over wash. The presence of the laminated beds is indicative of the complexity of tsunami sedimentation on the coast. Such observations are essential to the formation of definitive facies models for palaeo-overwash studies that are capable of distinguishing between sediments deposited by storms or tsunami.     

Numerical Simulation of Extreme Sea Levels for the Tamil Nadu (India) and Sri Lankan Coasts

Numerical modeling of extreme sea levels associated with tropical cyclones in the Indian seas has been confined to the northern part of the Bay of Bengal (north of Tamil Nadu). However, limited attempts have been made for modeling of surges along the Tamil Nadu and Sri Lankan coasts. Although, very rarely, cyclones form south of 10°N, there are some instances of severe cyclonic storms hitting these areas and causing widespread destruction to life and property. Keeping this in view, a suitable location-specific, high-resolution, numerical model has been developed for the prediction of storm surges in these regions with a grid resolution of 3 km. Using the model, numerical experiments are performed to simulate the storm surge associated with the 1964 Rameswaram cyclone, the 1978 Batticaloa cyclone, the 1992 Tuticorin cyclone, the 1993 Karaikal cyclone, and the 1994 Madras cyclone. During the years 1964, 1978, and 1992, the cyclones struck both Sri Lanka and Tamil Nadu coasts, while in 1993 and 1994, the cyclones struck only the Tamil Nadu coast. It is found that the computed sea surface elevations are in close agreement with the available observations/estimates.     

Numerical Simulation of Extreme Sea Levels for the Tamil Nadu (India) and Sri Lankan Coasts

Numerical modeling of extreme sea levels associated with tropical cyclones in the Indian seas has been confined to the northern part of the Bay of Bengal (north of Tamil Nadu). However, limited attempts have been made for modeling of surges along the Tamil Nadu and Sri Lankan coasts. Although, very rarely, cyclones form south of 10°N, there are some instances of severe cyclonic storms hitting these areas and causing widespread destruction to life and property. Keeping this in view, a suitable location-specific, high-resolution, numerical model has been developed for the prediction of storm surges in these regions with a grid resolution of 3 km. Using the model, numerical experiments are performed to simulate the storm surge associated with the 1964 Rameswaram cyclone, the 1978 Batticaloa cyclone, the 1992 Tuticorin cyclone, the 1993 Karaikal cyclone, and the 1994 Madras cyclone. During the years 1964, 1978, and 1992, the cyclones struck both Sri Lanka and Tamil Nadu coasts, while in 1993 and 1994, the cyclones struck only the Tamil Nadu coast. It is found that the computed sea surface elevations are in close agreement with the available observations/estimates.     

Historical tsunami in the Makran Subduction Zone off the southern coasts of Iran and Pakistan and results of numerical modeling

Tsunami hazard in the Makran Subduction Zone (MSZ), off the southern coasts of Iran and Pakistan, was studied by numerical modeling of historical tsunami in this region. Although the MSZ triggered the second deadliest tsunami in the Indian Ocean, among those known, the tsunami hazard in this region has yet to be analyzed in detail. This paper reports the results of a risk analysis using five scenario events based on the historic records, and identifies a seismic gap area in western Makran off the southern coast of Iran. This is a possible site for a future large earthquake and tsunami. In addition, we performed numerical modeling to explain some ambiguities in the historical reports. Based on the modeling results, we conclude that either the extreme run-up of 12–15 m assigned for the 1945 Makran tsunami in the historical record was produced by a submarine landslide triggered by the parent earthquake, or that these reports are exaggerated. The other possibility could be the generation of the huge run-up heights by large displacements on splay faults. The results of run-up modeling reveal that a large earthquake and tsunami in the MSZ is capable of producing considerable run-up heights in the far field. Therefore, it is possible that the MSZ was the source of the tsunami encountered by a Portuguese fleet in Dabhul in 1524.     

Wave Dispersion Study in the Indian Ocean-Tsunami of December 26, 2004

A numerical study which takes into account wave dispersion effects has been carried out in the Indian Ocean to reproduce the initial stage of wave propagation of the tsunami event that occurred on December 26, 2004. Three different numerical models have been used: the nonlinear shallow water (nondispersive), the nonlinear Boussinesq, and the full Navier-Stokes aided by the volume of fluid method to track the free surface. Numerical model results are compared against each other. General features of the wave propagation agreed very well in all numerical studies. However some important differences are observed in the wave patterns, i.e., the development in time of the wave front is shown to be strongly connected to the dispersion effects. Discussions and conclusions are made about the spatial and temporal distribution of the free surface reaffirming that the dispersion mechanism is important for tsunami hazard mitigation.     

海啸预警与第四纪古海啸沉积记录研究进展

海啸对人类的生命和财产安全构成巨大的威胁,2004年12月26日苏门答腊特大海啸的发生,引起了国际社会对海啸预警问题的重视,并进一步认识到古海啸沉积研究的重要性.介绍了国际上对海啸预警和古海啸沉积研究的进展,重点综述古海啸沉积的研究现状、研究方法与识别标志.最近20年来,研究者们着重对滨岸、浅海或陆地上的现代海啸沉积和古海啸堆积物进行研究,而对深水区域的古海啸记录研究很少.笔者认为在海啸多发海域的深水区进行长柱状沉积物取样,通过沉积学和地球化学分析研究,把古海啸沉积从海底正常沉积中识别出来,再结合定年,有助于恢复古海啸史,明确长期的灾害风险.     

Wave Dispersion Study in the Indian Ocean-Tsunami of December 26, 2004

A numerical study which takes into account wave dispersion effects has been carried out in the Indian Ocean to reproduce the initial stage of wave propagation of the tsunami event that occurred on December 26, 2004. Three different numerical models have been used: the nonlinear shallow water (nondispersive), the nonlinear Boussinesq, and the full Navier-Stokes aided by the volume of fluid method to track the free surface. Numerical model results are compared against each other. General features of the wave propagation agreed very well in all numerical studies. However some important differences are observed in the wave patterns, i.e., the development in time of the wave front is shown to be strongly connected to the dispersion effects. Discussions and conclusions are made about the spatial and temporal distribution of the free surface reaffirming that the dispersion mechanism is important for tsunami hazard mitigation.     

Short-Term Morphological and Shoreline Changes at Trinkat Island,Andaman and Nicobar,India, After the 2004 Tsunami

The tsunami waves generated during the Sumatra-Andaman earthquake of 26 December 2004 devastated the coastal area along Trinkat Island, causing sudden changes to the morphology of the landforms. This study uses a series of satellite images to record the short-term morphological response and shoreline changes as well as the recovery of coastal land after its destruction. Results indicate that the island experienced substantial erosion and a significant reduction in land area. Shoreline erosion is more prevalent than accretion at an average linear regression rate of ～?9 m per year between 2004 and 2013. The major morphological changes at Trinkat Island were observed in coastal inlets, beaches, and bay head-lands. Straight beaches had almost recovered eight years after the tsunami; however, erosion is continually observed in other areas. Our study will help understanding the response and recovery of shorelines in Indian Ocean regions after the 2004 tsunami.     

赤道印度洋海温偶极子的气候影响及数值模拟研究

在分析研究印度洋海温变化的基本特征,尤其是在分析赤道印度洋海温偶极子及其影响的基础上,利用IAP9L大气环流模式模拟研究了赤道印度洋海温偶极子异常对亚洲季风区气候变化的影响.其结果表明,印度洋、亚洲南部和东部地区的流场和降水都对印度洋海温异常的强迫作用比较敏感.正位相印度洋偶极子的作用使得赤道东印度洋-印度次大陆南部-阿拉伯海一带出现距平东风,孟加拉湾-中南半岛出现异常反气旋性环流,从而对减少印度南部和中南半岛南部、印度尼西亚地区的夏季降水,以及增加中国南部和东非的夏季降水有十分重要的作用.与此相反,负位相印度洋偶极子的作用将使赤道东印度洋附近出现西风异常,孟加拉湾-中南半岛存在异常气旋性环流,从而使印度次大陆和中南半岛南部、印度尼西亚地区的降水增加,使中国西部和孟加拉湾的降水减少.数值模拟结果与资料分析相互映证,切实地揭示了印度洋海温偶极子对亚洲季风区的气候变化有重要影响.     

Numerical Simulation of the Gulf Stream and the Deep Circulation

The Gulf Stream system has been numerically simulated with relatively high resolution and realistic forcing. The surface fluxes of the simulation were obtained from archives of calculations from the Eta-29 km model which is an National Center for Environment Prediction (NCEP) operational atmospheric prediction model; synoptic fields are available every 3 hour. A comparison between experiments with and without surface fluxes shows that the effect of the surface wind stress and heat fluxes on the Gulf Stream path and separation is closely related to the intensification of deep circulations in the northern region. Additionally, the separation of the Gulf Stream and the downslope movement of the Deep Western Boundary Current (DWBC) are reproduced in the model results. The model DWBC crosses under the Gulf Stream southeast of Cape Hatteras and then feeds the deep cyclonic recirculation east of the Bahamas. The model successfully reproduces the cross-sectional vertical structures of the Gulf Stream, such as the asymmetry of the velocity profile, and this structure is sustained along the downstream axis. The distribution of Root Mean Square (RMS) elevation anomaly of the model shows that the eddy activity of the Gulf Stream is realistically reproduced by the model physics. The entrainment of the upper layer slope current into the Gulf Stream occurs near cross-over; the converging cross-stream flow is nearly barotropic. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

2017年9月8日墨西哥沿岸Mw8.2级地震海啸观测数据分析与模拟

2017年9月8日4时49分（UTC）,墨西哥瓦哈卡州沿岸海域（15.21°N,93.64°W）发生M_w8.2级地震,震源深度30 km。强震在该海域引发海啸,海啸对震源附近数百千米范围内造成了严重影响。位于太平洋上的多个海啸监测网络捕捉到了海啸信号并详细记录了此次海啸的传播过程。本文选用了近场2个DART浮标和6个验潮站的水位数据,通过潮汐调和分析和滤波分离出海啸信号,对近场海啸特征值进行了统计分析,并采用小波变换分析方法进一步分析了海啸的波频特征。基于Okada弹性位错理论断层模型计算得到了强震引发的海底形变分布,并采用MOST海啸模式对本次海啸事件近场传播特征进行了模拟,模拟结果与观测吻合较好。最后,基于实测和模拟结果,详细分析了此次地震海啸的近场分布特征,发现除受海啸源的强度和几何分布特征影响外,近岸海啸波还主要受地形特征控制,在与特定地形相互作用后波幅产生放大效应,会进一步加剧海啸造成的灾害。     

2014年4月2日智利海啸数值模拟与分析

北京时间2014年4月2日智利北部近海发生8.2级地震。地震引发了海啸,南美智利、秘鲁等国沿岸的多个海洋站监测到了明显的海啸波动。文章利用国家海洋环境预报中心开发的CTSU海啸数值模式对这次智利海啸事件进行了数值模拟。模拟结果显示距离震源最近的智利北部受灾严重,秘鲁以及智利南部等海域的海啸波相对较小。沿海站点的第一波海啸波的数值模拟曲线与实测曲线基本吻合。由于数值模型的理想化和近岸水深地形数据分辨率不够,后续海啸波部分模拟结果与实测值存在一定误差。     

印度洋海啸灾害特点及其对工程防御的启示

印度洋海啸现场调查表明,海啸灾害不同于地震和洪水灾害。海啸通过高水位淹没、浪涌冲击对海边地势低平地区的房屋、道路、桥梁、机场、给排水、供电、通讯等设施以及车辆、船只造成严重破坏。海啸上岸后,由于巨大的冲力,将夹带一些破损建筑产生的固体漂浮物一同前进,破坏力更强。由于淹没、浪涌、冲毁建筑物压埋以及漂浮物冲击等综合作用,造成人员死亡率极高,所过之处,财产皆空。抗御海啸灾害的工程措施主要包括:合理规划(避让、削弱、分流、阻挡)和科学设计(潜在海啸灾害等级划分、结构性态决策、海啸荷载确定、抗海啸分析、构造设计)。     

长江口附近海域台风浪的数值模拟--以鹿沙台风和森拉克台风为例

利用SWAN波浪模型计算长江口附近海域的台风浪,鉴于长江河口岸界和地形复杂,拟采用曲线网格.为证实曲线网格下的SWAN模型对于复杂地形的有效性,首先选用美国特拉华大学波浪水池实验资料对SWAN模型进行检验,结果表明利用曲线网格能不过多增加计算量而提高关键区域的计算精度.以0215号鹿沙台风和0216号森拉克台风为例,将SWAN模型应用到长江口附近海域,进行台风浪的数值模拟.通过浮标测站实测资料验证,表明有效波高计算值与实测值符合良好.通过综合分析模型计算的波浪场,说明SWAN模型能合理地反映长江口附近海域台风浪的分布.     

Scenarios of local tsunamis in the China Seas by Boussinesq model

The Okinawa Trench in the East China Sea and the Manila Trench in the South China Sea are considered to be the regions with high risk of potential tsunamis induced by submarine earthquakes. Tsunami waves will impact the southeast coast of China if tsunamis occur in these areas. In this paper, the horizontal two-dimensional Boussinesq model is used to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and runnp in a domain with complex geometrical boundaries. The temporary varying bottom boundary condition is adopted to describe the initial tsunami waves motivated by the submarine faults. The Indian Ocean tsunami is simulated by the numerical model as a validation case. The time series of water elevation and runup on the beach are compared with the measured data from field survey. The agreements indicate that the Boussinesq model can be used to simulate tsunamis and predict the waveform and runup. Then, the hypothetical tsunamis in the Okinawa Trench and the Manila Trench are simulated by the numerical model. The arrival time and maximum wave height near coastal cities are predicted by the model. It turns out that the leading depression N-wave occurs when the tsunami propagates in the continental shelf from the Okinawa Trench. The scenarios of the tsunami in the Manila Trench demonstrate significant effects on the coastal area around the South China Sea.     

Observations of Tsunami Impact on the Coast of Kerala, India

The tsunami generated by the December 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake had a devastating effect on some parts of Kerala coast, which is a coast located in southwest India. Results of post-tsunami field surveys carried out to understand the changes in coastal morphology and sediment characteristics in the worst affected Kayamkulam region of Kerala coast are documented in this study. Analysis of offshore bathymetric data indicates the shifting of depth contours towards shore, indicating erosion of sediments and deepening of innershelf due to the tsunami. Depth measurement along the backwater (T-S canal) in the hinterland region indicates siltation due to the inundation of the canal.