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1.
Study on headland-bay sandy coast stability in South China coasts   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied.  相似文献   

2.
BeacherosionalongthecoastlineofAlexandria,Egypt¥OmranE.Frihy,SamirM.Nasr,KhalidDewidarandMohamedElRaey(ReceivedJanuary28,1993...  相似文献   

3.
在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现:楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值(选取数据采集前15 d的波浪条件参与计算)与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。  相似文献   

4.
The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.  相似文献   

5.
The tsunami waves generated during the Sumatra-Andaman earthquake of 26 December 2004 devastated the coastal area along Trinkat Island, causing sudden changes to the morphology of the landforms. This study uses a series of satellite images to record the short-term morphological response and shoreline changes as well as the recovery of coastal land after its destruction. Results indicate that the island experienced substantial erosion and a significant reduction in land area. Shoreline erosion is more prevalent than accretion at an average linear regression rate of ~?9 m per year between 2004 and 2013. The major morphological changes at Trinkat Island were observed in coastal inlets, beaches, and bay head-lands. Straight beaches had almost recovered eight years after the tsunami; however, erosion is continually observed in other areas. Our study will help understanding the response and recovery of shorelines in Indian Ocean regions after the 2004 tsunami.  相似文献   

6.
The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.  相似文献   

7.
台风"艾利"对福建沙质海滩影响过程研究   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
蔡锋  雷刚  苏贤泽  彭俊 《海洋工程》2006,24(1):98-109
通过对福建沙质海滩地形地貌现场调查,对比分析0418号台风“艾利”登陆福建前后各沙滩剖面的蚀淤变化,探讨了福建沙滩对台风“艾利”响应规律。研究结果表明,2004年8月底台风“艾利”过境期间,福建沿海砂质海岸显出了较强烈的地貌响应。沙滩剖面地形变化,冲淤相间,以冲蚀为主;后滨沙丘蚀退、滩肩蚀低、岸线向陆迁移是地貌响应的主要特征;沙滩沉积物的总收支趋于亏损。不同海岸类型的沙滩剖面对台风“艾利”的响应特征不同。岬湾型沙滩剖面地貌响应以前滨滩面侵蚀为主要特征。夷直型的长乐江田下沙剖面,对“艾利”台风的主要地貌响应特征为后滨沙丘、高潮带侵蚀,岸线后退超过16m,出现高度近1 m的直立侵蚀陡坎。沙坝-泻湖型沙滩剖面冲淤变化的主要特征是中潮带形成次一级沙坝。各沙滩的地貌风暴效应有自北往南依次减弱的趋势。  相似文献   

8.
Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms.

Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer.

A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s−1 and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months.  相似文献   


9.
波浪和潮汐作用下的海滩剖面动态变化过程是海岸演变及沿海防护工程设计与旅游资源规划的核心内容。本文以广西钦州湾沙井半岛人工海滩为研究区, 基于GPS-RTK采集的2018年1月—2019年12月的逐月剖面高程实测数据, 通过分析剖面冲淤和单宽体积变化, 利用EOF(Empirical Orthogonal Function)函数揭示剖面的高程变化模式, 进而探讨海滩剖面的动态演变过程。研究的主要结果表明: 1) 在观测期间, 人工海滩剖面的冲淤情况整体展现出冬春季淤积、夏秋季侵蚀的变化特征; 2) 人工海滩剖面因泥沙横向输移而导致不同横向分带的单宽体积变化趋势呈差异性, 不同横向分带具有侵蚀与淤积交替出现的情况; 3) 人工海滩剖面的变化模式可划分为由强降雨及台风导致剖面高程明显降低的主要模式、波潮影响下的剖面高程经历强降雨及台风后逐渐淤积和恢复的次要模式、波浪破碎形成卷流引起滩面冲淤变化的其他模式。  相似文献   

10.
海南岛东北部海滩侵蚀与恢复对连续台风的复杂响应   总被引:5,自引:3,他引:2  
在连续台风作用下海滩的侵蚀与恢复是一个复杂的过程。基于海南岛东北部木兰-抱虎湾海滩的现场调查,对比分析台风"威马逊"和"海鸥"登陆前后海滩剖面和后滨沉积物的动态响应。结果表明,超强台风"威马逊"引起海滩的严重侵蚀和强烈的泥沙输移,在木兰湾海滩主要表现出由北向南沿岸海滩的差异性变化,在抱虎湾各海滩变化较为相近;后继登陆台风"海鸥"引起海滩显著堆积,对海滩主要起恢复作用,木兰湾海滩恢复效果明显,海滩后滨沉积物趋于恢复至台风前的状态,由于抱虎湾水下珊瑚礁及近岸岩礁地貌减缓了台风对该处海滩的侵蚀和堆积作用,抱虎湾海滩表现出与台风前较大差异性。两处海湾海滩的不同走向及台风的风向变化也是造成海滩不同响应的重要原因。研究将有助于更好地理解海滩对连续台风作用的复杂响应。  相似文献   

11.
Juvenile sandhoppers (Talitrus saltator Montagu 1808; Crustacea: Amphipoda) were tested under natural conditions to examine their ability to orient to the sun and local features. Experiments were carried out on two Italian sandy beaches subject to different geomorphological dynamics, one under erosion from the sea and the other one under morphodynamic equilibrium (between erosion and accretion). Laboratory-born samples of each population were tested on their beach of origin and compared with wild individuals of the same age; other laboratory-born samples were tested on both beaches, that of origin and the other beach. The population from the beach displaying geomorphologic equilibrium, oriented seawards on both beaches, referring to the sun and the local landscape, while the population from the beach under erosion tended to orient to prominent landscape features on both beaches displaying a scototaxis. These results showed the importance of orientation to local landscape features in young inexpert talitrids, and the innateness of this behaviour in natural populations when shoreline stability allows for a genetic stabilisation of orientation mechanisms.  相似文献   

12.
Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach.  相似文献   

13.
The applicability of recommendations of the Eurosion project to define a policy to manage coastal erosion has been tested at the “beach” scale in the Mediterranean coast. Thus, a favourable sediment status has been defined for these beaches taking into account their main functions: recreation and protection. Because they act at two different seasons, this status needs to be seasonally defined. For the protection function, the favourable sediment status depends on the level of safety fixed by the manager taking into account the importance of existing infrastructures and, for recreation it depends on the use density of the beach. The concept has been formalized for beach management within a framework where benchmarking plays a crucial role to determine the need of intervention. This has been illustrated for open cell beaches where one of its boundaries can permit variations in the sediment budget and for pocket beaches that act as closed sediment cells.  相似文献   

14.
华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现:(1)水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;(2)海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。  相似文献   

15.
Artificial beach nourishment, the placing of sand onto eroded beaches, is increasingly employed by coastal engineers as an alternative to structural control of shoreline erosion. Man-made beaches approximating natural forms and processes offer greater protection against storms than eroded beaches and provide increased recreational opportunities. It is hoped that maintenance nourishment will keep pace with subsidence and eustatic rise in sea level, primary causes of beach erosion. Even though negative impacts of beach restoration may be short-lived and limited in scope, sound ecological engineering practices require careful monitoring of dredging operations.  相似文献   

16.
Torrey Pines State Beach, a site with large seasonal fluctuations in sand level, received a small shoreface beach fill (about 160,000 m3) in April 2001. The 600 m-long, flat-topped nourishment pad extended from a highway riprap revetment seaward about 60 m, terminating in a 2 m-tall vertical scarp. A 2.7 km alongshore span, centered on the nourishment region, was monitored prior to the nourishment and biweekly to monthly for the following 2 years. For the first 7 months after the nourishment, through fall 2001, significant wave heights were small, and the elevated beach fill remained in place, with little change near and above Mean Sea Level (MSL). In contrast, the shoreline accreted on nearby control beaches following a seasonal pattern common in southern California, reducing the elevation difference between the nourished and adjacent beaches. During the first winter storm (3 m significant wave height), the shoreline retreated rapidly over the entire 2.7 km survey reach, forming an alongshore-oriented sandbar in 3 to 4 m water depth [Seymour, R.J., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W., Elgar, S., 2004. Rapid erosion of a Southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering 52 (2), 151–158.]. We show that the winter sandbar, most pronounced offshore of the nourishment, moved back onto the beach face during summer 2002 (following the usual seasonal pattern) and formed a wider beach above MSL at the site of the original nourishment than on the control beaches. Thus, the April 2001 shoreline nourishment was detectable until late fall 2002, persisting locally over a full seasonal cycle. In an extended 7-year time series, total sand volumes (summed between the back beach and 8 m water depth, over the entire 2.7 km reach) exhibit multi-year fluctuations of unknown origin that are twice as large as the nourishment volume.  相似文献   

17.
The paper focuses on the numerical simulation of erosion of plane sloping beaches by irregular wave attack in three wave flumes of different scales. One of the prime objectives of the tests was to provide a consistent data set for the improvement of numerical beach profile models. A practical application of this research with wave attack on plane sloping beaches is the erosion of the plane beaches after nourishment. Three models (CROSMOR, UNIBEST-TC and DELFT3D) have been used to simulate the flume experimental results focusing on the wave height distribution and the morphological development (erosion and deposition) along the beach profiles. Overall, the model predictions for wave heights show consistent results. Generally, the computed wave heights (Hrms and H1/3) are within 10% to 15% of the measured values for all tests (under-prediction of the largest wave heights close to the shore). The three models can simulate the beach erosion of the wave flume tests (erosive tests) reasonably well using default values of the sand transport parameters. The model performance for the accretive tests is less good than that for the erosive tests. A practical field application of this research is the erosion of nourished beaches, as these beaches generally have rather plane beach slopes immediately after nourishment. Various graphs are given to estimate the beach erosion of nourished beaches.  相似文献   

18.
Recent developments in extreme values modelling have been used to develop a framework for determining the coastal erosion hazard on sandy coastlines. This framework quantitatively reproduced the extreme beach erosion volumes obtained from field measurements at Narrabeen Beach, Australia. This encouraging finding was achieved using Kriebel and Dean's [Kriebel, D.L. and Dean, R.G., 1993. Convolution method for time-dependent beach profile response. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 119(2): 204–226.] simple beach erosion and accretion model. The method includes allowances for joint probability between all basic erosion variates including; wave height, period and direction, event duration, tidal anomalies and event spacing. A new formulation for the dependency between wave height and period has been developed. It includes the physical wave steepness limitation. Event grouping, where significantly more erosion can occur from two closely spaced storms is handled by temporally simulating the synthetic wave climate and the resulting beach erosion and accretion.  相似文献   

19.
文章基于2022年春、秋季开展的龙岐湾沙滩资源调查数据,分析较场尾沙滩、大塘角沙滩、黄泥湾沙滩和桔钓沙沙滩的剖面特征、沉积物粒径和裂流发生情况。研究结果表明:4处沙滩剖面的坡度秋缓春陡,剖面受风浪和潮汐直接作用时坡度变化大,受遮蔽时坡度变化小,整体呈冬春淤积、夏秋侵蚀;沙滩沉积物以中砂、粗砂和砾石为主,粒径变化不大;沙滩均无明显裂流发生,为低风险等级。建议开发沙滩旅游应考虑季节性的补沙方案,开展围垦养殖和海岸工程应注意削弱ESE向和SE向的波浪作用。  相似文献   

20.
Sandy beaches, prime recreational assets that attract more people than other types of shorelines, are the main assets underpinning many coastal economies and developments. However, the intense stressors to the ecology of sandy beaches caused by recreational activities are generally underestimated or ignored. This study was the first to emphasize the ecological characteristics of recreational beaches in China and assess the response of macrobenthos at Liandao Beach, a typical sandy beach in the central part of China. Using the Before/During/After/Control/Impact (BDACI) method, differences in multiple variables (species richness, mean density, diversity) between a heavily recreationally impacted transect (TrH/Impact) and a less-impacted transect (TrL/Control) in different impact periods (Before, During & After) were applied to assess the response of sandy-beach macrobenthos to recreation and tourism. Meanwhile, a comparison between the macrobenthos conditions of the studied beach and reference conditions calculating from historical data of similar beaches with little recreation and tourism disturbances was carried out. Furthermore, the quality control chart approach was used to detect in detail the macrobenthos stable state and yearly response to recreational activities. The results showed that recreation and tourism posed a serious threat to the beach ecosystem; macrobenthos on the studied beach were seriously disturbed by recreational activities, and their variations were highly negatively related to the human recreational level. After monthly recreational impacts, the macrobenthos decreased sharply and recovered with difficulty during 1 year. Over the long-term, the macrobenthos had a sharp decreasing trend, which indicated that the ecological environment of the beach was highly disturbed. Conservation measures for recreational beaches are very challenging because of the economic value and popularity of sandy beaches as recreational sites. However, practicable conservation measures could be implemented that prevent or slow ecological degradation. A number of management and conservation suggestions are put forward, such as the establishment of the ecological carrying capacity of Liandao Beach in terms of direct recreational use, creation of themed exhibitions related to the beach macrobenthos and beach ecosystem and dissemination of this knowledge to visitors, implementation of spatial zoning of beach use, visitor management and environmental education.  相似文献   

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