Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

海岸侵蚀作用下海岸带地区极端风暴洪水风险评估 —以上海石化为例

海堤是海岸带地区社会经济活动的重要保护屏障。海岸侵蚀的加剧将导致海堤稳定性和安全性降低, 增加海岸带地 区遭受极端风暴洪水的风险, 进而影响到海岸带地区的安全。本文选择上海石化这一遭受海岸侵蚀较为严重的区域作为研究 区, 利用 GIS 分析了 1972—2020 年近岸海床侵蚀特征, 并基于 2000—2020 年-5 m 等深线变化评估了上海石化近岸海堤的 稳定性。结果表明： 1972—2020 年间上海石化前沿海床整体以侵蚀为主, 石化近岸东侧以及西侧局部的浅滩侵蚀明显, 城 市沙滩中段、第 6 次围堤处以及码头东岸海堤稳定性最低。基于上述研究结果, 考虑海堤稳定性薄弱段出现极端风暴洪水漫 堤或溃堤情景, 模拟并分析了上海石化 2010 年 、2030 年和2050 年遭受千年一遇极端风暴洪水的风险。结果显示： 在 2010 年基准年情景下, 受海岸侵蚀作用最明显的城市沙滩和第6 次围堤区域遭遇极端风暴洪水的风险最高, 到 2050 年, 当前稳 定性较好的海堤安全性也将大大降低, 与 2010 年相比, 上海石化近岸地区的直接经济损失将会增加近 3 倍。     

Experimental Study of Overtopping on Sea Dikes and Coastal Flooding Under the Coupled Processes of Tides and Waves

Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.

     

Characteristics of coastal erosion geometry under regular and irregular waves

An experimental investigation of coastal erosion generated by the action of regular and irregular waves was carried out in laboratory channels. Natural beach sand, with medium diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63, was used in this study. A 1:5 initial beach slope was selected for the model tests. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and the characteristics of coastal erosion geometry such as erosion lengths, erosion depths, location of maximum erosion point, and total erosion areas were measured. The most important parameters governing coastal erosion were evaluated by using earlier investigations and experimental results. These parameters were expressed as a dimensionless group by using π theory. The empirical relationships between the geometric characteristics of coastal erosion and the dimensionless group are proposed through regression analysis for pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular-irregular waves. The parameters, which were used to define geometric characteristics of coastal erosion, were evaluated and some ratios of these parameters gave a constant value.     

海平面变化及其海岸响应

第四纪气温的大幅度冷暖变化，导致全球海平面的变化，引起陆架海侵扣海退。海岸上的各种地貌如海滩、沙坝、三角洲扣陆架沙脊等响应海平面升降而发生新的演化扣变异。东海陆架古岸线、围绕古岸线发育的陆架沙脊、陆架深切河谷扣河谷充填沉积以及冰后期海进型扣海退型沙坝的形成乖演化等沉积事件都是响应海平面升降的结果。近百年来特别是近30年全球海平面普遍上升，引起风暴潮的频度扣幅度的增大。近岸波能增强，越滩浪增多，导致海滩侵蚀，岸线后退。Bruun法则扣其他一些模型能够说明海滩随海平面上升而蚀退的规律，但在预测速率时仍存在很多问题。使用时应注意海平面变化的区域性、海滩发育的滞后性和海滩蚀退因素间的权重关系。     

蓬莱西庄海滩示踪砂试验研究

为了研究蓬莱西庄海岸侵蚀原因、揭示泥沙运移规律，利用萤光示踪砂和染色砾石进行侵蚀岸段的泥沙示踪研究．其主要结果如下：１．海滩泥沙运动完全由波浪控制，泥沙运移的速度和方向取决于破波的大小和方向．２．海滩泥沙以群体形式沿岸输移．３．在平直海岸上，泥沙可超越粘土质海蚀平台进入另一砂质海滩。     

ICZM and coastal defence perception by beach users: Lessons from the Mediterranean coastal area

Member States of the European Union and the Mediterranean Regional Sea need to elaborate national strategies for coastal management according to ICZM principles and to undertake national stock-taking, which must consider major actors, laws and institutions influencing the management of their national coastal zone. However, different approaches to coastal management and defence and various degrees of development and implementation of national ICZM strategies can be found. The research presented in this article aims to analyze the different situations and to contribute to the further development of a common approach in terms of methodology to establish stakeholder and users participation in ICZM. An extensive survey was conducted in five pilot sites along the European Mediterranean coastal zone (Greece, Italy and France) show beach visitors’ perception of ICZM, coastal erosion and coastal defence systems, and beach visitors’ Willingness To Pay (WTP) for beach defence. The survey yielded important information for coastal and beach managers. Surprisingly, the level of awareness about generic Coastal Zone Management was found to be rather low in all regions except Riccione Southern beach, Emilia-Romagna Region. In the Languedoc-Roussillon Region, this is justified by the fact that most of the respondents were not local people or beach visitors (other than recreational day-visitors). As regards coastal erosion it appears significant that, despite the lack of awareness demonstrated overall by stakeholders in the Region of East Macedonia and Thrace, visitors respond very positively to definitions and show awareness of the erosion process in their coastal system. In conclusion, in order to raise public awareness about ICZM, erosion and coastal defence systems, it is suggested that education, training and public awareness should be promoted as well as identification of local needs for the implementation of specific demand-driven studies.     

热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例

在0307号台风“伊布都”(Imbudo)袭击华南沿海前后,对相距约300km的高栏岛飞沙湾(位于气旋前进方向右侧)和水东港下大海(位于气旋前进方向左侧)的固定海滩剖面地形及滩面沉积物进行了对比调查。调查结果表明,右侧海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击发生剧烈变化：后滨陆侧堆积,后滨向海侧及前滨滩面侵蚀(单宽侵蚀量达55m^3／m,平均海面(MSL)位置蚀退13m,岸线位置蚀退5m),以致剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变,表现出了海滩对台风做出快速响应;而左侧海滩剖面地形基本保持原状,虽也略呈侵蚀,但冲淤变化不大,表现为对台风做出迟缓响应。同时,从动力、滨海输沙、滩面沉积物变化和海岸地貌等方面对两侧海滩明显差异的风暴效应的机制进行了探讨。     

A simplified hindcast method for the estimation of extreme storm surge events in semi-enclosed basins

Human presence, coastal erosion, and tourism activities are increasing the attention to coastal flooding risk. To perform risk assessments, long time series of observed or hindcast wave parameters and tide levels are then necessary. In some cases, only a few years of observation are available, so that observed extreme data are not always representative and reliable. A hindcast system aimed to reconstruct long time series of total tide levels may be of great help to perform robust extreme events analysis and then to protect human life, activities as well as to counteract coastal erosion by means of risk assessments. This work aims to propose a simplified method to hindcast storm surge levels time series in semi-enclosed basins with low computational costs. The method is an extension of a previous work of some of the authors and consists of a mixed approach in which the estimation of storm surge obtained by using the theory of linear dynamic system is corrected by using a statistical method. Both steps are characterized by low computational costs. Nevertheless, the results may be considered reliable enough also in view of the simplicity of the approach. The proposed method has been applied to the Manfredonia case study, a small village located in the Southern Adriatic Italian coast and often prone to coastal flooding events. The comparison of extreme events estimated on the basis of hindcast levels time series is satisfactorily similar to those estimated on the basis of observed tide series.     

Coastal defence through wave farms

The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection.     

Sedimentary Environment in the Taiwan Shoal

The Taiwan shoal sediments are well sorted, rounded, medium-coarse sands containing a large amount of shell and beach rock fragments and basalt gravels of deltaic, coastal, and aeolian origin. Underwater sand waves are formed by the combined tidal currents and remolded by storm waves.     

Shifting sands? Coastal protection by sand banks,beaches and dunes

In a closely integrated system, (sub-) littoral sandy sediments, sandy beaches, and sand dunes offer natural coastal protection for a host of environmentally and economically important areas and activities inland. Flooding and coastal erosion pose a serious threat to these environments, a situation likely to be exacerbated by factors associated with climate change. Despite their importance, these sandy ‘soft’ defences have been lost from many European coasts through the proliferation of coastal development and associated hard-engineering and face further losses due to sea-level rise, subsidence, storm surge events, and coastal squeeze. As part of the EU-funded THESEUS project we investigated the critical drivers that determine the persistence and maintenance of sandy coastal habitats around Europe's coastline, taking particular interest in their close link with the biological communities that inhabit them. The successful management of sandy beaches to restore and sustain sand budgets (e.g. via nourishment), depends on the kind of mitigation undertaken, local beach characteristics, and on the source of ‘borrowed’ sediment. We found that inter-tidal invertebrates were good indicators of changes linked to different mitigation options. For sand dunes, field observations and manipulative experiments investigated different approaches to create new dune systems, in addition to measures employed to improve dune stabilisation. THESEUS provides a ‘toolbox’ of management strategies to aid the management, restoration, and creation of sandy habitats along our coastlines, but we note that future management must consider the connectivity of sub-littoral and supra-littoral sandy habitats in order to use this natural shoreline defence more effectively.     

Sedimentary Environment in the Taiwan Shoal

The Taiwan shoal sediments are well sorted, rounded, medium-coarse sands containing a large amount of shell and beach rock fragments and basalt gravels of deltaic, coastal, and aeolian origin. Underwater sand waves are formed by the combined tidal currents and remolded by storm waves.     

A study of the characteristics of aeolian sand activity and the effects of a comprehensive protective system in a coastal dune area in southern China

Windblown sand control in coastal areas of China began in the 1950s, but was restricted to coastal afforestation 500 to 1000 m landward from the storm-tide line (the maximum height reached by waves during a powerful storm); there were no studies of the supratidal and intertidal areas, where mobile sands create windblown sand damage problems. We therefore studied the formation conditions, characteristics, and damage mechanisms for aeolian sand activity in these areas. Based on the results, we propose suitable sand control measures that combine blocking of the moving sand with stabilization, initially using engineering measures then concluding with biological measures. Control measures include establishing dikes in the intertidal area, erecting nylon nets, and planting Cynodon dactylon behind the dikes on gentle sandy slopes above the high-tide line and below the storm-tide line; spraying sand stabilizer on steep slopes beside moving sand and erecting sand fences on both sides; and spreading mulch nets and mixing clay into the surface, thereby creating a comprehensive protective system that functions as a breakwater, and blocks and stabilizes sand. This protected installations along the beach and improved the ecological environment, leading to the establishment of mangrove seedlings that also stabilized beach areas. These results fill a large gap in the research on controlling windblown sand damage in China's coastal dune areas, and will have significant implications for controlling such areas in other climatic areas.     

钦州湾人工海滩剖面变化过程

波浪和潮汐作用下的海滩剖面动态变化过程是海岸演变及沿海防护工程设计与旅游资源规划的核心内容。本文以广西钦州湾沙井半岛人工海滩为研究区, 基于GPS-RTK采集的2018年1月—2019年12月的逐月剖面高程实测数据, 通过分析剖面冲淤和单宽体积变化, 利用EOF(Empirical Orthogonal Function)函数揭示剖面的高程变化模式, 进而探讨海滩剖面的动态演变过程。研究的主要结果表明: 1) 在观测期间, 人工海滩剖面的冲淤情况整体展现出冬春季淤积、夏秋季侵蚀的变化特征; 2) 人工海滩剖面因泥沙横向输移而导致不同横向分带的单宽体积变化趋势呈差异性, 不同横向分带具有侵蚀与淤积交替出现的情况; 3) 人工海滩剖面的变化模式可划分为由强降雨及台风导致剖面高程明显降低的主要模式、波潮影响下的剖面高程经历强降雨及台风后逐渐淤积和恢复的次要模式、波浪破碎形成卷流引起滩面冲淤变化的其他模式。     

基于高频观测数据的徐闻青安湾海滩对台风“贝碧嘉”的响应研究

风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣,目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测,获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明:(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛?雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径,增水稳定在0.38～0.5 m之间,而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m,再增加至0.56 m;(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀,形成水下沙坝,滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段,台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4;(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成:第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程;第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀,补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程;第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程;第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮,在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区,可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。     

An experimental study on geometric characteristics of beach erosion profiles

The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H₀=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d₅₀=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.     

Beach erosion along the coastline of Alexandria, Egypt

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不同补沙方案对海滩剖面影响的数值模拟对比分析

大量工程实践表明,海滩养护是当前抵御海岸侵蚀的常见措施。通过人为地向海滩补充沙源,以达到海岸防护、修复沙滩等目的。本文建立了XBeach一维海滩剖面演变数值模型,并与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证;计算常浪条件下不同方案补沙后海滩剖面达到平衡状态的速率;通过对比补沙工况与未补沙工况的风暴后剖面,分析风暴作用下的防护效果。结果发现,补沙量较大时,沙坝向海侧位置补沙在常浪条件下补沙效率高于滩肩补沙,在风暴条件下防护效果优于滩肩补沙。此次研究对于在实际海滩养护过程中节约施工成本、提高施工效率有着重要意义,同时对于评估沙滩养护工程效果有一定的参考价值。     

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.