Hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport at tidal inlets of Salut Mengkabong Lagoon,Sabah,Malaysia

Salut-Mengabong Lagoon is located at the west coast of Sabah facing the South China Sea. At the bay side of the main inlet the lagoon splits into Salut and Mengabong Channels. Sediment dynamics at the inlets of the lagoon have recently received considerable attention. But any direct measurement of hydrodynamics and sediment flux are yet to be well documented. This study covers the field measurements of current velocity, water flux, suspended sediment concentration and sediment flux across the three transects (main inlet, Salut entrance and Mengkabong entrance) during typical spring and neap tidal cycles in southwest monsoon and northeast monsoon. Temporal variations and time-averaged values of measured parameters are discussed. The inlets of Salut-Mengkabong Lagoon are found to be ebb-dominated. The time-averaged velocities during spring tidal measurements are found to be higher in the main inlet followed by Mengkabong entrance and Salut entrance. Suspended sediment concentration and sediment fluxes are substantially higher in spring tidal cycles compared to the same in neap tidal cycles. During spring tidal cycles, ebb tidal sediment fluxes are higher than the flood tidal fluxes. The ebb dominated flux across the main inlet led to the large ebb shoal.     

Asymmetric fluxes of water and sediments in a mesotidal mudflat channel

The hydrodynamics of a small tributary channel and its adjacent mudflat is studied in Willapa Bay, Washington State, USA. Velocity profiles and water levels are simultaneously measured at different locations in the channel and on the mudflat for two weeks. The above tidal flat and channel hydrodynamics differ remarkably during the tidal cycle. When the water surface level is above the tidal flat elevation, the channel is inactive. At this stage, the above tidal flat flow is predominantly aligned along the Bay axis, oscillating with the tide as a standing wave with peak velocities up to 0.3 m/s. When the mudflat becomes emergent, the flow concentrates in the channel. During this stage, current velocities up to 1 m/s are measured during ebb; and up to 0.6 m/s during flood. Standard equations for open-channel flow are utilized to study the channel hydrodynamics. From the continuity equation, a lateral inflow is predicted during ebb, which likely originates from the drainage of the mudflat through the lateral runnels. Both advective acceleration and lateral discharge terms, estimated directly from the velocity profiles, play a significant role in the momentum equation. The computed drag coefficient for bottom friction is small, due to an absence of vegetation and bottom bedforms in the channel. Sediment fluxes are calculated by combining flow and suspended sediment concentration estimated using the acoustic backscatter signal of the instruments. A net export of the sediment from the channel is found during ebb, which is not balanced by the sediment import during flood. When the mudflat is submerged, ebb-flood asymmetries in suspended sediment concentration are present, leading to a net sediment flux toward the inner part of the Willapa Bay. Finally, a residual flow is detected inside the channel at high slack water, probably associated with the thermohaline circulation.     

Suspended sediment fluxes at an intertidal flat: The shifting influence of wave,wind, tidal,and freshwater forcing

Using in situ, continuous, high frequency (8–16 Hz) measurements of velocity, suspended sediment concentration (SSC), and salinity, we investigate the factors affecting near-bed sediment flux during and after a meteorological event (cold front) on an intertidal flat in central San Francisco Bay. Hydrodynamic forcing occurs over many frequency bands including wind wave, ocean swell, seiching (500–1000 s), tidal, and infra-tidal frequencies, and varies greatly over the time scale of hours and days. Sediment fluxes occur primarily due to variations in flow and SSC at three different scales: residual (tidally averaged), tidal, and seiching. During the meteorological event, sediment fluxes are dominated by increases in tidally averaged SSC and flow. Runoff and wind-induced circulation contribute to an order of magnitude increase in tidally averaged offshore flow, while waves and seiching motions from wind forcing cause an order of magnitude increase in tidally averaged SSC. Sediment fluxes during calm periods are dominated by asymmetries in SSC over a tidal cycle. Freshwater forcing produces sharp salinity fronts which trap sediment and sweep by the sensors over short (∼30 min) time scales, and occur primarily during the flood. The resulting flood dominance in SSC is magnified or reversed by variations in wind forcing between the flood and ebb. Long-term records show that more than half of wind events (sustained speeds of greater than 5 m/s) occur for 3 h or less, suggesting that asymmetric wind forcing over a tidal cycle commonly occurs. Seiching associated with wind and its variation produces onshore sediment transport. Overall, the changing hydrodynamic and meteorological forcing influence sediment flux at both short (minutes) and long (days) time scales.     

Contemporary hydrodynamics and morphological change of a microtidal estuary: a numerical modelling study

Contemporary hydrodynamics and morphological change are examined in a shallow microtidal estuary, located on a wave-dominated coast (Port Stephens, NSW, Australia). Process-based numerical modelling is undertaken by combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. Model results suggest that the complex estuarine bathymetry and geometry give rise to spatial variations in the tidal currents and a marked asymmetry between ebb and flood flows. Sediment transport paths correspond with tidal asymmetry patterns. The SE storms significantly enhance the quantities of sediment transport, while locally generated waves by the westerly strong winds also are capable of causing sediment entrainment and contribute to the delta morphological change. The wave/wind-induced currents are not uniform with flow over shoals driven in the same direction as waves/winds while a reverse flow occurring in the adjacent channel. The conceptual sediment transport model developed in this study shows flood-directed transport occurs on the flood ramp while ebb-directed net transport occurs in the tidal channels and at the estuary entrance. Accretion of the intertidal sand shoals and deepening of tidal channels, as revealed by the model, suggest that sediment-infilling becomes advanced, which may lead to an ebb-dominated estuary. It is likely that a switch from flood- to ebb-dominance occurs during the estuary evolution, and the present-day estuary acts as a sediment source rather than sediment sink to the coastal system. This is conflictive to the expectation drawn from the estuarine morphology; however, it is consistent with previous research suggesting that, in an infilling estuary, an increase in build-up of intertidal flats/shoals can eventually shift an estuary towards ebb dominance. Thus, field data are needed to validate the result presented here, and further study is required to investigate a variety of estuaries in the Australian area.     

Seasonal,tidal, and geomorphic controls on sediment export to Amazon River tidal floodplains

Mainstem–floodplain material exchange in the tidal freshwater reach of major rivers may lead to significant sequestration of riverine sediment, but this zone remains understudied compared to adjacent fluvial and marine environments. This knowledge gap prompts investigation of floodplain-incising tidal channels found along the banks of tidal rivers and their role in facilitating water and suspended-sediment fluxes between mainstem and floodplain. To evaluate this role, and how it evolves along the tidal river and with time, we measured water level, flow velocity, temperature, and suspended-sediment concentration (SSC) in four tidal channels along the tidal Amazon River, Brazil. Eleven deployments were made during low, rising, high, and falling seasonal Amazon discharge. Generally, channels export high-SSC water from the mainstem to the tidal floodplain on flood tides and transfer low-SSC water back to the mainstem on ebbs. Along the length of the tidal river, the interaction between tidal and seasonal water-level variations and channel–floodplain morphology is a primary control on tidal-channel sediment dynamics. Close to the river mouth, where tides are large, this interaction produces transient flow features and current-induced sediment resuspension, but the importance of these processes decreases with distance upstream. Although the magnitude of the exchange of water and sediment between mainstem and floodplain via tidal channels is a small percentage of the total mainstem discharge in this large tidal-river system, tidal channels are important conduits for material flux between these two environments. This flux is critical to resisting floodplain submergence during times of rising sea level. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Turbulence and suspended sediment processes in the Garonne River tidal bore in November 2016

A tidal bore is a water discontinuity at the leading edge of a ood tide wave in estuaries with a large tidal range and funneling topography. New measurements were done in the Garonne River tidal bore on 14 15 November 2016, at a site previously investigated between 2010 and 2015. The data focused on long, continuous, high-frequency records of instantaneous velocity and suspended sediment con- centration (SSC) estimate for several hours during the late ebb, tidal bore passage and ood tide. The bore passage drastically modi ed the ow eld, with very intense turbulent and sediment mixing. This was evidenced with large and rapid uctuations of both velocity and Reynolds stress, as well as large SSCs during the ood tide. Granulometry data indicated larger grain sizes of suspended sediment in water samples compared to sediment bed material, with a broader distribution, shortly after the tidal bore. The tidal bore induced a sudden suspended sediment ux reversal and a large increase in suspended sedi- ment ux magnitude. The time-variations of turbulent velocity and suspended sediment properties indicated large uctuations throughout the entire data set. The ratio of integral time scales of SSC to velocity in the x-direction was on average TE,SSC/TE,x 0.16 during the late ebb tide, compared to TE,SSC/ TE,x 0.09 during the late ood tide. The results imply different time scales between turbulent velocities and suspended sediment concentrations.     

The influence of neap–spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks

Sediment flux in marsh tidal creeks is commonly used to gauge sediment supply to marshes. We conducted a field investigation of temporal variability in sediment flux in tidal creeks in the accreting tidal marsh at China Camp State Park adjacent to northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended‐sediment concentration (SSC), velocity and depth were measured near the mouths of two tidal creeks during three 6‐ to 10‐week deployments: two in winter and one in summer. Currents, wave properties and SSC were measured in the adjacent shallows. All deployments spanned the largest spring tides of the season. Results show that tidally averaged suspended‐sediment flux (SSF) in the tidal creeks varied from slightly landward to strongly bayward with increasing tidal energy. SSF was negative (bayward) for tidal cycles with maximum water surface elevation above the marsh plain. Export during the largest spring tides dominated the cumulative SSF for each deployment. During ebb tides following the highest tides, velocities exceeded 1 m s^?1 in the narrow tidal creeks, resulting in negative tidally averaged water flux, and mobilizing sediment from the creek banks or bed. Storm surge also produced negative SSF. Tidally averaged SSF was positive in wavy conditions with moderate tides. Spring tide sediment export at the creek mouth was about twice that at a station 130 m further up the tidal creek. The negative tidally averaged water flux near the creek mouth during spring tides indicates that in the lower marsh some of the water flooding directly across the bay–marsh interface drains through the tidal creeks, and suggests that this interface may be a pathway for sediment supply to the lower marsh as well. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Sediment dynamics in an offshore tidal channel in the southern Yellow Sea

The geomorphology of the southern Yellow Sea（SYS） is characterized by offshore radial sand ridges（RSR）.An offshore tidal channel（KSY Channel） is located perpendicular to the coast,comprised of a main and a tributary channel separated by a submarine sand ridge（KSY Sand Ridge） extending seaward.In order to investigate the interactions among water flow,sediment transport,and topography,current velocity and suspended sediment concentration（SSC） were observed at 11 anchor stations along KSY Channel in RSR during a spring tide cycle.High resolution bottom topography was also surveyed.Residual currents and tidally averaged suspended sediment fluxes were calculated and analyzed by using the decomposition method.Results suggested that the water currents became stronger landward but with asymmetrical current speed and temporal duration of flood and ebb tides.Residual currents showed landward water transport in the nearshore channel and a clockwise circulation around the KSY Sand Ridge.Tidally-averaged SSC also increased landward along the channel.The main mechanisms controlling SSC variations were resuspension and horizontal advection,with spatial and temporal variations in the channel,which also contributed to sediment redistribution between channels and sand ridges.Residual flow transport and the tidal pumping effect dominated the suspended sediment flux in the KSY Channel.The KSY Sand Ridge had a potential southward migration due to the interaction between water flow,sediment transport,and topography.     

Lateral dynamics and associated transport of sediment in the upper reaches of a partially mixed estuary,Chesapeake Bay,USA

Data from time series of transects made over a tidal period across a section of the upper Chesapeake Bay, USA, reveal the influence of lateral dynamics on sediment transport in an area with a deep channel and broad extents of shallower flanks. Contributions to lateral momentum by rotation (Coriolis plus channel curvature), cross channel density gradients and cross channel surface slope were estimated, and the friction and acceleration terms needed to complete the balance were compared to patterns of observed lateral circulation. During ebb, net rotation effects were larger because of river velocity and reinforcement of Coriolis by curvature. During flood, stratification was greater because of landward advection of strong vertical density gradients. Together, the ebb intensified lateral circulation and flood intensified stratification focused sediment and sediment transport along the left side of the estuary (looking seaward). The tendency for greater stratification on flood and net sediment flux toward the left-hand shoal are contrary to more common models which, in the northern hemisphere, predict greater resuspension on flood and move sediment toward the right-hand shoal. These tidal asymmetries interact with the lateral circulation to focus net sediment flux on the left side of the estuary, and to produce net ebb directed sediment transport at the surface of the same order of magnitude as net flood directed sediment transport at the bottom.     

Shelf sediment dispersal during the dry season,Princess Charlotte Bay,Great Barrier Reef,Australia

Princess Charlotte Bay, located on the northern Great Barrier Reef, is an environment of terrigenous and carbonate deposition. The dynamics on this shelf are controlled by the Great Barrier Reef at the edge of the shelf, and the mid-shelf, shore-normal reefs. This study examines the dynamics during the dry season, with six time-series records from instrumented tripod deployments and numerous hydrographic stations.The shallow nearshore waters and the estuaries prove to be the sites where most active sediment resuspension and transport takes place. Sediment resuspension is effected primarily by waves in the nearshore, and channeling of tidal currents in the estuaries. Bedload transport did not occur during this study, mainly because current velocities were too low. Suspended particulate matter (SPM) transport in the bay is governed by tides and winds. Strong tidal flow imparts a strong offshore component to the transport, and strong southeast winds impart an alongshore component that transports SPM out of the bay to the northwest. Rattlesnake Channel, east of Princess Charlotte Bay, is another route by which SPM leaves the bay. Flow through this channel is predominantly tidal, with ebb waters (leaving Princess Charlotte Bay) carrying higher SPM concentrations than flood waters.SPM flux in the nearshore was an order of magnitude higher than at offshore stations, with highest fluxes generally occurring at times of sustained southeast winds. Transect data show that SPM drops to average bay values in water 11 m deep, indicating most SPM is transported in nearshore waters.     

Long‐term morphological impacts of the opening of a new inlet on a multiple inlet system

In this study, the artificial opening of a new tidal inlet in an existing multiple inlet system is shown to significantly modify the adjacent nearshore and backbarrier morphology, as well as both updrift and downdrift shorelines. The study focuses on the dominant Faro‐Olhão and Armona inlets in the Ria Formosa barrier island system of southern Portugal. The equilibrium state and future evolution of the system are inferred using a range of morphological and hydrodynamic indicators, including the evolution of the inlet cross‐section, changes in tidal prism, and changes in the dimensions (length and area) of barrier islands. The results reveal how the morphology of an interconnected two‐inlet bay system and the adjacent coastlines has evolved following the artificial opening and stabilization of Faro‐Olhão inlet since 1929. A clear relationship between barrier island size, inlet cross‐section/width, and tidal prism is demonstrated. Decadal time‐scale changes in the tidal prism of the two interconnected inlets are shown to be the main mechanism responsible for morphological change, and have resulted in the remobilization of ebb‐tidal delta sediments deposited during previous hydraulic configurations. These changes, in turn, have contributed to a narrowing of Armona inlet and an increase in the size of Culatra Island. The work highlights the importance of ebb‐tidal deltas both as sand reservoirs and as conduits through which sand exchange between estuaries or lagoons and the open coast is regulated. It also shows the pivotal role of ebb‐tidal deltas in trapping longshore‐transported sediment and releasing it again during periods of increased wave activity. The findings have implications regarding the accurate assessment of the stability of multiple inlet systems. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Fluid flow and sediment entrainment in the Garonne River bore and tidal bore collision

A detailed field study was carried out on a tidal bore to document the turbulent processes and sediment entrainment which occurred. The measured bore, within the Arcins Channel of the Garonne River (France), was undular in nature and was followed by well‐defined secondary wave motion. Due to the local river geometry a collision between the Arcins channel tidal bore and the bore which formed within the main Garonne River channel was observed about 800 m upstream of the sampling site. This bore collision generated a transient standing wave with a black water mixing zone. Following this collision the bore from the main Garonne River channel propagated ‘backward’ to the downstream end of the Arcins channel. Velocity measurements with a fine temporal resolution were complemented by measurements of the sediment concentration and river level. The instantaneous velocity data indicated large and rapid fluctuations of all velocity components during the tidal bore. Large Reynolds shear stresses were observed during and after the tidal bore passage, including during the 'backward' bore propagation. Large suspended sediment concentration estimates were recorded and the suspended sediment flux data showed some substantial sediment motion, consistent with the murky appearance of the flood tide waters. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Net sediment transport in tidal basins: quantifying the tidal barotropic mechanisms in a unified framework

Net sediment transport in tidal basins is a subtle imbalance between large fluxes produced by the flood/ebb alternation. The imbalance arises from several mechanisms of suspended transport. Lag effects and tidal asymmetries are regarded as dominant, but defined in different frames of reference (Lagrangian and Eulerian, respectively). A quantitative ranking of their effectiveness is therefore missing. Furthermore, although wind waves are recognized as crucial for tidal flats’ morphodynamics, a systematic analysis of the interaction with tidal mechanisms has not been carried out so far. We review the tide-induced barotropic mechanisms and discuss the shortcomings of their current classification for numerical process-based models. Hence, we conceive a unified Eulerian framework accounting for wave-induced resuspension. A new methodology is proposed to decompose the sediment fluxes accordingly, which is applicable without needing (semi-) analytical approximations. The approach is tested with a one-dimensional model of the Vlie basin, Wadden Sea (The Netherlands). Results show that lag-driven transport is dominant for the finer fractions (silt and mud). In absence of waves, net sediment fluxes are landward and spatial (advective) lag effects are dominant. In presence of waves, sediment can be exported from the tidal flats and temporal (local) lag effects are dominant. Conversely, sand transport is dominated by the asymmetry of peak ebb/flood velocities. We show that the direction of lag-driven transport can be estimated by the gradient of hydrodynamic energy. In agreement with previous studies, our results support the conceptualization of tidal flats’ equilibrium as a simplified balance between tidal mechanisms and wave resuspension.     

Effect of a secondary channel on the non-linear tidal dynamics in a semi-enclosed channel: a simple model

Non-linear tidal dynamics are investigated in a network that consists of a semi-enclosed main channel and a secondary channel at an arbitrary position. The water motion, governed by the one-dimensional shallow water equations, is forced by an incoming tidal wave. Solutions are obtained with the method of characteristics. The overall aim is to quantify and understand the spatial structure of different tidal harmonics (the principal tide and its non-linear overtides) and of tidal asymmetry for both the vertical and the horizontal tide in the main channel for different locations of the secondary channel. This is of practical interest in the context of possible construction of secondary channels to reduce tidal range in estuaries. Moreover, tidal asymmetry is an important factor in driving net sediment transport. Analysis of the different tidal harmonics shows that their characteristics are similar to those obtained with an earlier linear model. In particular, amplitudes of the harmonics are reduced landward of the secondary channel if the latter is positioned less than a quarter wavelength of the respective tidal wave away from the landward boundary. Thus, the distortions of the tide due to the presence of the secondary channel are generated locally and afterwards propagate through the network. Tidal asymmetry is quantified by examining tidal range, flood-to-ebb ratio and the duration of the falling tide and the duration between maximum flood and maximum ebb. A spatial non-uniform reduction in tidal range is observed that shows very localised increase and decrease depending on the position of the secondary channel. The changes in the velocity characteristics induce changes in net sediment transport. It turns out that the direction of the peak current, derived from the flood-to-ebb ratio, is not sensitive to the position of the secondary channel, whereas the duration between flood and ebb can change from more to less than half the tidal cycle. However, the changes in the velocity asymmetries are confined to a small region.     

Systematic monthly morphologic variation of assawoman inlet: Nature and causes

Assawoman Inlet, Virginia, U.S.A., representative of small mesotidal barrier island tidal inlets exhibits systematic variations of sediment volume among certain of its morphologic elements. Sediment volume variations were calculated from topographic-bathymetric maps of the inlet system, as surveyed on 11 occasions at approximately monthly intervals by a fathometer, and plane table and alidade. Of 36 pairings among nine morphologic elements, seven show statistically significant Pearson Product Moment Correlation Coefficients. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the southern beach face and the northern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the northern beach face on the northern spit. The southern and northern ramp margin shoals themselves are negatively correlated. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the fore flood tidal delta which is negatively correlated with a tidal channel on its landward side. The back flood tidal delta is positively correlated with the northern ramp margin shoals and negatively correlated with the back side of Wallops spit. These associations may be qualitatively explained using wave and tidal climate data during the sampling year plus megaripple and bedding orientations. Constructive waves tend to transfer sediment from the ramp margin shoals landward, building up the adjacent beach faces. Destructive waves tend to move sediment back to the ramp margin shoals. Waves striking the coast obliquely promote asymmetric growth of the shoals, causing the ebb jet to erode into whichever is the smaller shoal.     

Circulation and fine-sediment dynamics in the Amazon Macrotidal Mangrove Coast

The Amazon Macrotidal Mangrove Coast (AMMC) is a large (~7500 km²) contiguous mangrove fringe eastwards from the Amazon River mouth. It encompasses dozens of interconnected bays intercalated with mangrove peninsulas. Mud accumulates on the mangrove flats, whereas the bed of the bays and channels is generally sandy. In this study we investigated the circulation, sediment transport and deposition in a central site at one of these mangrove peninsulas. The study was undertaken during the dry period, when there is no influence of the Amazon River plume and minimum local freshwater inflow. Current and suspended-sediment concentration were monitored in a feeder channel on the mangrove flat along a ~1000 m section oriented along the peninsula axis. Sediment deposition was also measured on the flat. Our results show there was a strong exchange between the neighboring bays. Channel currents were flood dominant, reaching up to >1 m s⁻¹, with residual water and sediment transport westwards. Suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in the channel was directly related to velocity magnitude, ranging between 50 and 350 mg L⁻¹. The flat was flooded in a way that indicated the tidal wave evolves westwards, nearly parallel to the AMMC shoreline. Currents on the flats were much slower than those in the channel and showed slight ebb dominance. However, SSC was higher during the flood than ebb, clearly indicating settling during the current deceleration and limited erosion during the following ebb–flow acceleration. The net sediment transport across the section was 60 tons westwards for the period of the experiment (~4 days). The mean deposition rate was 0.006 kg m⁻² s⁻¹ (or 1.4 kg m⁻² per tide), which was higher than rates from other reported assessments in mangroves. The set of results indicate very large internal sediment reworking in the AMMC. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Tidal inlet response to sediment infilling of the associated bay and possible implications of human activities: the Marennes-Oléron Bay and the Maumusson Inlet,France

Tidal inlet characteristics are controlled by wave energy, tidal range, tidal prism, sediment supply and direction and rates of sand delivered to the inlet. This paper deals with the relations between inlet and lagoon evolutions, linked by the tidal prism. Our study is focused on the Maumusson Inlet and the Marennes-Oléron Bay (first oyster farming area in Europe), located on the western coast of France. The tidal range (2–6 m) and wave climate (mean height: 1.5 m) place this tidal inlet system in the mixed energy (tide, waves), tide-dominated category. The availability of high-resolution bathymetric data since 1824 permits to characterise and quantify accurately morphological changes of both the inlet and the tidal bay. Since 1824, sediment filling of the tidal bay has led to a 20% decrease in its water volume, and a 35% reduction of the inlet throat section. Furthermore, the bay is subjected to a very high anthropic pressure, mainly related to oyster farming. Thus, both natural and human-related processes seem relevant to explain high sedimentation rates. Current measurements, hydrodynamic modelling and cross-sectional area of the inlet throat are used in order to quantify tidal prism changes since 1824. Both flood and ebb tidal prism decreased by 35%. Decrease in the Marennes-Oléron Bay water volume is inferred to be responsible for a part of tidal prism decrease at the inlet. Tidal prisms decrease may also be explained by an increase in frictional resistance to tidal wave propagation, due to a general shoaling and oyster farms in the bay. A conceptual model is proposed, taking into account natural and human-related sedimentation processes, and explaining tidal inlet response to tidal bay evolutions.     

Tidal straining effect on the suspended sediment transport in the Huanghe (Yellow River) Estuary, China

Tidal straining effect on sediment transport dynamics in the Huanghe (Yellow River) estuary was studied by field observations and numerical simulations. The measurement of salinity, suspended sediment concentration, and current velocity was conducted during a flood season in 1995 at the Huanghe river mouth with six fishing boats moored at six stations for 25-h hourly time series observations. Based on the measurements, the intra-tidal variations of sediment transport in the highly turbid river mouth was observed and the tidal straining effect occurred. Our study showed that tidal straining of longitudinal sediment concentration gradients can contribute to intra-tidal variability in sediment stratification and to asymmetries in sediment distribution within a tidal cycle. In particular, the tidal straining effect in the Huanghe River estuary strengthened the sediment-induced stratification at the flood tide, thus producing a higher bottom sediment concentration than that during the ebb. A sediment transport model that is capable of simulating sediment-induced stratification effect on the hydrodynamics in the bottom boundary layers and associated density currents was applied to an idealized estuary to demonstrate the processes and to discuss the mechanism. The model-predicted sediment processes resembled the observed characteristics in the Huanghe River estuary. We concluded that tidal straining effect is an important but poorly understood mechanism in the transport dynamics of cohesive sediments in turbid estuaries and coastal seas.     

Empirical observations and numerical modelling of tides,channel morphology,and vegetative effects on accretion in a restored tidal marsh

Tidal marshes form at the confluence between estuarine and marine environments where tidal movement regulates their developmental processes. Here, we investigate how the interplay between tides, channel morphology, and vegetation affect sediment dynamics in a low energy tidal marsh at the Paul S. Sarbanes Ecosystem Restoration Project at Poplar Island. Poplar Island is an active restoration site where fine-grained material dredged from navigation channels in the upper Chesapeake Bay are being used to restore remote tidal marsh habitat toward the middle bay (Maryland, USA). Tidal currents were measured over multiple tidal cycles in the inlets and tidal creeks of one marsh at Poplar Island, Cell 1B, using Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP) to estimate water fluxes throughout the marsh complex. Sediment fluxes were estimated using acoustic backscatter recorded by ADCPs and validated against total suspended solid measurements taken on site. A high-resolution geomorphic survey was conducted to capture channel cross sections and tidal marsh morphology. We integrated simple numerical models built in Delft3d with empirical observations to identify which eco-geomorphological factors influence sediment distribution in various channel configurations with differing vegetative characteristics. Channel morphology influences flood-ebb dominance in marshes, where deep, narrow channels promote high tidal velocities and incision, increasing sediment suspension and reducing resilience in marshes at Poplar Island. Our numerical models suggest that accurately modelling plant phenology is vital for estimating sediment accretion rates. In-situ observations indicate that Poplar Island marshes are experiencing erosion typical for many Chesapeake Bay islands. Peak periods of sediment suspension frequently coincide with the largest outflows of water during ebb tides resulting in large sediment deficits. Ebb dominance (net sediment export) in tidal marshes is likely amplified by sea-level rise and may lower marsh resilience. We couple field observations with numerical models to understand how tidal marsh morphodynamics contribute to marsh resilience. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Beach Morphodynamics influenced by an ebb‐tidal delta on the north Florida Atlantic coast

Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.