海浪的群性及其主要特征参数

本文综述了目前研究波群的三类主要方法——包线理论、连的统计理论和波能过程线法及其描述群性的主要参数,结合实测资料,从波群的高度和长度两个方面对它们进行了分析比较,建议了能较好描述波浪群性的方法和参数。给出了三个测站处海浪的群性参数。探讨了群性对波高分布和组成波相位分布的影响以及波浪记录长度对计算群性参数的影响。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

波浪谱形对不规则波数值模拟的影响

通过数值模拟分析了波浪谱形对不规则波浪数值模拟结果的影响.采用不同参数的JONSWAP谱模拟入射波要素,基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪的传播,分析了波浪谱形状对波浪数值模拟结果的影响.结果表明,采用抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪时,入射波浪谱形对模拟结果影响不明显;但由于模型中非线性项的影响,采用不规则波模拟的波高分布和采用规则波模拟的结果略有差别.     

基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟近岸植被区波浪传播

植被对波浪传播运动有重要影响。考虑近岸波浪在植被区传播中的折射、绕射、破碎及植被引起的波能耗损效应,基于抛物型缓坡方程建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数学模型,对模型进行了数值模拟验证,采用数值模拟试验分析了植被对波浪传播的影响。数值模拟结果表明,波浪在近岸植被区传播时,随着植被密度和植被高度的增加,波浪传播中的波高衰减增大,波能耗损增加;不同周期波浪在植被区传播中的波高衰减过程也明显不同。     

碟形越浪式波能发电装置的三维数值模拟

基于计算流体力学软件的三维数值模拟技术,分析了碟形越浪式波能发电装置的越浪性能,通过构建基于水气两相VOF(Volume of Fluid)模型的三维数值波浪水槽对该装置进行三维数值模拟研究,数值计算结果与物理试验结果相互对比验证较为吻合,验证了所构建的三维数值波浪水槽的可靠性,通过考察装置的坡度、导流叶片个数、干舷高度对越浪性能的影响确定装置的最优结构参数。结果表明,在装置的斜坡面边缘增加回流板可减少波浪的反射,提高装置的越浪性能。在数值模拟中将装置的斜坡面边缘处安装回流板对碟形越浪式波能发电装置参数进行优化,通过分析回流板的长度对装置越浪性能的影响来探索最优回流板长度。     

岬间海湾滨面带波浪结构和外观统计特征

对中等波能条件下收集的粤东两个岬间海湾滨面带4个站点的波浪数据作了滨面带波面、波包和长重力波的基本特征的分析，得到如下主要结果：（1）滨面带波谱由多峰频构成，从海向岸波高增大，波周期减小，谱宽度加大，谱尖度减小；（2）入射波群性较强，表征入射波群性的相对均方根群高与谱宽度无关；（3）长波振幅与波浪能量增大，其形成主要与组成波间的非线性相互作用有关。     

系泊方柱在畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用下运动响应试验研究

畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用于系泊浮体,和常规随机波浪作用比较,运动响应时频域特征均将发生显著变化。基于物理模型试验,采用小波方法计算伴生波浪和常规随机波浪作用下系泊浮体运动响应的时频域特征变化及波群因子与浮体运动响应时频域特征的定量关系。结果表明:伴生波浪作用下浮体运动响应显著大于常规随机波浪的作用结果,且波群因子G A对浮体运动响应时频域特征有显著影响;伴生波浪作用下浮体纵荡运动的广义能量谱E(t)统计特征值E max(t)、E 1/10(t)、E 1/3(t)、E average(t)均明显大于相同波谱下常规随机波浪的结果,且随着波群因子G A增大显著增大;伴生波浪作用下各运动响应能量集中度δE显著大于常规随机波浪作用结果,且能量集中时域分布范围参数ΔT E以纵荡运动分量最为显著。     

深水随机波列中畸形波统计特征的研究

本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。     

沉积特征和波浪高度对描述海滩平衡剖面的形状参数的影响

形状参数可根据离岸距离和水深来确定海滩平衡剖面的形状。因此,形状参数应描绘所有环境因素对海滩剖面的影响,包括波浪气候和沉积物的特征。然而,所有的前人研究在定义形状参数时所考虑的只是沉积物的特征。本文研究的主要目的是在对海滩剖面定义时加上波浪气候因素,通过海浪波能在破波带上每单位体积的衰减速率来获取其对形状参数的影响。通过研究平衡状态下波浪衰减速率,形成了包括波浪气候和沙滩颗粒大小两种参数的海滩平衡剖面的新的定义理论。研究发现,沉积物的颗粒大小和波浪高度对海滩的形状参数的值有着显著的影响,而波浪周期的影响可忽略不计。通过能量守恒,也可获取在宏观尺度上波浪能量的强度对不同粒度大小的海滩剖面的影响。研究结果可用来解释两个任意拥有相同的沉积粒度海滩剖面,却有着不同的海滩剖面的组成结构。总之,本文通过增加波浪高度因素来定义形状参数,发展了Moore（1982）给出的海滩剖面的描述参数。     

楔形体在波浪中自由入水的数值模拟

物体入水时波浪的影响不可忽略,基于流体力学模型采用VOF法,并利用自定义函数,模拟了楔形体的自由入水过程;同时结合推波板原理及海绵层消波理论实现了数值水槽的造消波,完成了波浪中楔形体自由入水的模拟,计算了楔形体入水时所受的水作用力、自由液面变化及物面压强分布等,研究了不同波高、周期以及在波浪不同位置入水时对楔形体的影响。结果表明:本文建立的数值模型可很好地模拟楔形体入水造成的射流及空泡的形成发展过程,波浪对楔形体入水的影响主要由波浪内部流场变化及表面波形决定,在波浪不同位置处入水对楔形体受力及入水形态均有较大影响。     

Cross-shore variations of wave groupiness by wavelet transform

This paper proposes a new definition of groupiness factor (GF) based on the local wavelet energy density of the wave time series to describe the groupiness degree of waves. The main advantage of this new GF is that the effect of the operational definition on it is smaller than that on SIWEH-based GF or envelop-based GF. Then, the new GF is used to study the groupiness variations of mechanically generated irregular waves in a wave flume propagating on a slope of 1:45. The results of present study show that the decrease of groupiness in the coast is triggered by breaking. And energy distribution along the record time for the first harmonics of waves in the surf zone, which becomes more uniform than that out the surf zone, is the main reason causing the decrease of groupiness.     

Groupiness of Sea Waves and Their Characteristic Parameters

Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group height and group length. A method and two parameters that can describe wave groupiness are suggested. The groupiness parameters of sea waves at three field stations are given. The effects of groupiness on both distributions of the wave height and the phase of component waves are investigated. The effects of datum length on the calculated value of grouping parameters are also discussed.     

The physical simulation of wave groups and their variations in a wave flume

The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.     

Wave groupiness variations in the nearshore

This paper proposes a new definition of the groupiness factor, GF, based on the envelope of the incident-wave time series. It is shown that an envelope-based GF has several important advantages over the SIWEH-based groupiness factor, including objective criteria for determining the accuracy of the envelope function and well-defined numerical limits.Using this new GF, the variability of incident wave groupiness in the field is examined both temporally, in unbroken waves at a fixed location, and spatially, in a cross-shore array through the surf zone. Contrary to previous studies using the SIWEH-based GF, results suggest that incident wave groupiness may not be an independent parameter in unbroken waves; through a wide range of spectral shapes, from swell to storm waves, the groupiness did not vary significantly. As expected, the groupiness decreases rapidly as waves break through the surf zone, although significant wave height variability persists even through a saturated surf zone. The source of this inner surf zone groupiness is not identified; however, this observation implies that models of long wave generation must account for nonsteady radiation stress gradients landward of some narrow zone near the mean breakpoint.     

Physical simulation of multidirectional irregular wave groups

Real waves are multidirectional waves.In the present study,the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed.Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method.Then,the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin.The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness,which includes not only its group height but also its group length,can be satisfactorily generated at the specified position in the physical wave basin.     

Effect of Nonlinearity on Groupiness of Random Wave Fields

Theoretical studies so far on random wave groups have all been in linear ways.Methods to sim-ulate random wave groups,an important subject in ocean engineering,also employ relationship resulting froma Gaussian process.Many filed measurements have shown that the real sea surfase displacement deviatessomewhat from Gaussian distribution.Tayfun et al.have further depicted in theory that the envelope spectralpeak frequency is constantly zero for a Gaussian process which means that the groupiness factors will be con-stants,too.In this paper,the effect of nonlinearity on groupiness of a random wave field is examined via thetheoretical results derived by Tayfun et al.from an expression of amplitude-modulated Stokes waves.Whenthe surface displacement is treated as a non-Gaussian process,it is found that the group height factors GF_1and GF_2 proposed by Zhao et al.and Yu et al.,respectively,depend on a nonlinearity factor as well as aspectrum-bandwidth factor,deferring from the case of a Gaussion process.Compariso     

基于OpenFOAM三维多向畸形波数值模拟研究

基于二次开发开源计算流体力学(CFD)软件包Open FOAM中的非稳态不可压缩两相流求解器inter Foam建立数值模型,增加了基于方向谱的三维造波边界和吸收边界,成功模拟了三维多向畸形波过程。通过与模型试验波面和目标谱对比,验证了数值模型模拟三维多向畸形波的有效性。另外,分析了网格尺度和柯朗数对模拟结果的影响,并使用连长统计和SIWEH两种方法分析了包含畸形波波列的群性。研究结果表明:在本研究范围内,网格尺度设置0.02 m×0.01 m×0.02 m,最大柯朗数选择0.25,模拟出的三维畸形波效果最好;从能量角度描述畸形波的群性更为合理。     

Two-dimensional continuous wavelet transform of simulated spatial images of waves on a slowly varying topography

The wavelet transform (WT) is now recognized as a useful, flexible, and efficient technique to analyze intermittent, non-stationary and inhomogeneous signals as well as images which are obtained from experimental or in situ measurements. In this study, the two-dimensional continuous wavelet transform (2-D CWT) was introduced to analyze the spatial image of waves. The numerical algorithm of 2-D CWT was developed and testified in simulated wave field of regular and random waves. Some more simulated wave fields of various wave conditions and sea bed slopes were then assumed to verify the analytical accuracy of this new technique. The comparisons of estimations to theoretical values for several wave parameters show that the 2-D CWT is capable of identifying the directional spectra and wave properties in shallow water.     

论风浪的局域结构──Ⅰ.风浪的局域结构与局域小波能谱

基于小波变换,引入了能刻画风浪局域结构的局域小波能谱。论述了风浪的整体结构与局域结构。指出了在不同时间尺度上,风浪具有不同的局域化特征。提出了风场演化过程中整体的共振在线性相互作用是否存在的质疑。