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1.
This paper proposes an explanation of the mud deposits on the inner Shelf of Cassino Beach, South Brazil, by using computational modeling. These mud deposits are mainly formed by sediments delivered from Patos Lagoon, a coastal lagoon connected to the Shelf, next to Cassino Beach. The deposits are characterized by (soft) mud layers of about 1 m thick and are found between the −5 and −20 isobaths.  相似文献   

2.
Rapid deposition of mud on the beach along the shoreface of Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil dramatically influences the normal operations in the littoral zone. In the surf zone, fluid and suspended mud opposes water-wave movement and dissipates water-wave energy; on the beach, mud limits trafficability. As part of a multinational, multidisciplinary program to evaluate the influence of mud strength, density and viscosity on water-wave attenuation, sediments were evaluated in situ or collected for evaluation from an area offshore of Cassino Beach, slightly south of the Patos Lagoon mouth. Shear strength of deposited sediments ranged from 0.6 kPa at the seafloor to 3.4 kPa at ∼1 m below the seafloor. Mud sediments were also collected to simulate the in situ response of fluid mud to shear stresses. For this determination, rheological evaluations were made using a strain-controlled Couette viscometer on numerous remixed samples that ranged in density from 1.05 to 1.30 g/cm3. It was determined that this mud is a non-ideal Bingham material in that it has a true initial yield stress as well as a upper Bingham yield stress. Initial yield stress ranged from 0.59 to 2.62 Pa, upper Bingham yield stress ranged from 1.05 to 7.6 Pa. Apparent viscosity ranged from 0.02 to 4.7 Pa s with the highest viscosities occurring between the two yield stresses. Sediment strength in the remixed samples is 2 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the horizontal shear strength of the sediment bed as determined by shear vane or predicted from penetrometer measurements. This difference is partially due to the fact that rheological evaluations are made on fully remixed sediments, whereas horizontal shear strength is determined within relatively undisturbed sediments. Similar values of viscosity and shear strength are comparable to those determined for mud in other coastal areas where fluid mud deposits occur.  相似文献   

3.
The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.  相似文献   

4.
开展场地地震动反应分析是众多海洋工程活动顺利实施和长期安全运行的重要保障,其中查明海底土小应变动力特性是十分关键的。文章借助海上原位钻孔取样和室内共振柱仪对辽东湾近海海底土小应变动力特性开展试验研究,探讨前人总结提出的滨海海底土初始动剪切模量Gmax预测经验公式在辽东湾海域的适用性,对比文章试验结果与周边海域已有海底土剪切波速测试结果,分析小应变范围内海底土动剪切模量的衰减特征和阻尼比发展演变趋势,并同时进行定量化模拟预测,评价海底土动剪切模量衰减曲线的归一化特征。研究结果表明:(1)共振柱试验得到的原状海底土剪切波速与周边海域已有海底土剪切波速测试结果吻合良好;(2)相比起陆地土,海洋土在小应变范围内归一化动剪切模量G/Gmax衰减得更慢,阻尼比增长得也更慢;(3)通过引入临界剪应变,不同土类和埋深对应的海底土小应变动剪切模量衰减曲线可以进行归一化。研究成果对合理开展海洋工程场地地震动反应分析评价具有一定的指导意义。  相似文献   

5.
Mud deposits near sandy beaches, found throughout the world, are of scientific and societal interest as they form important natural sea defenses by efficiently damping storm waves. A multi-national field experiment to study these phenomena was performed offshore Cassino beach in southern Brazil starting in 2004. This experiment aimed to investigate the formation of an offshore mud deposit, to characterize wave attenuation over potentially mobile muddy bottoms, and to evaluate the performance of models for wave transformation over heterogeneous beds through the measurement of water waves, near-bottom currents, bathymetry, and changes in bottom sediment characteristics. The main instrumentation was a set of wave sensors deployed in a transect from the shoreline across sandy and muddy deposits offshore to a depth of 25 m. Additional sensors, including current meters and optical backscatter sensors, were concentrated at stations in the middle of the mud deposit and in the surf zone to document aspects of the wave boundary layer and lutocline dynamics. This fieldwork also involved the geological and geotechnical characterization of the mud deposit using seismic equipment, echo-sounders, cores, surficial sampling and an in-situ density meter. These sediment samples were subsequently analyzed for density, grain size distribution, mineralogy, rheology and sedimentary structures. In addition, video and radar monitoring equipment were installed to measure the long-term aspects of surf zone damping by fluid mud and any associated morphodynamic responses. This paper provides a summary of environmental conditions monitored during the experiment and describes the major findings of the various investigations. Although data collection was more difficult than anticipated and dramatic wave attenuation involving the onshore transport of fluid mud into the surf zone region was not observed during the instrumented interval, the new methodologies developed and comprehensive observations obtained during this effort are being used to improve our understanding of shoaling wave dynamics and sediment transport in the coastal zone in regions with significant cohesive sediment deposits.  相似文献   

6.
Surf zone drifters and a current meter were used to study the nearshore circulation patterns in the lee of groynes at Cottesloe Beach and City Beach in Western Australia. The circulation patterns revealed that a persistent re-circulation cell was present in the lee of the groyne which was driven by changes in wave set-up resulting from lower wave heights in the lee of the groyne. The re-circulation consisted of a longshore current directed towards the groyne which was deflected offshore due to groyne resulting in a rip current along the groyne face. The offshore-flowing rip current and the incoming waves converged at the offshore extent of this circulation cell, with the deflection of the rip current parallel to the shoreline and then completing the recirculation through an onshore component. The Eulerian measurements revealed that 55% of the currents on the lee side of the groyne were directed offshore and that these currents had a maximum speed of 2 m s?1. Spectral analysis of the wave heights and the currents revealed several corresponding peaks in the measured spectral densities with timescales between 12 s and 50 min. Numerical simulations of an idealised beach with a shore-normal groyne were conducted using a circulation model driven by waves, and confirmed the formation of a persistent eddy in the lee of the groyne. Sensitivity studies indicated that the incident wave angle, wave period, and especially the wave height controlled the circulation. The eddy vorticity, a measure of an eddy's strength, increased roughly proportional to an increase in the incident wave energy flux.  相似文献   

7.
《Continental Shelf Research》2007,27(10-11):1477-1500
Constraining the exchange of water from the shoreline to the mid-shelf is necessary for the development of accurate and predictive models of nearshore circulation. Ra isotopes, which emanate from sediments and have a variety of half-lives, may be useful in measuring cross-shelf mixing rates. The distributions of Ra isotopes were measured in transects extending perpendicular from the shoreline at Sunset Beach and Huntington Beach, CA. The average inventory at Sunset Beach was four times greater than at Huntington Beach. Building on previous research on Ra inputs and circulation in San Pedro Bay, a two-dimensional model for surface water Ra was developed to identify the importance of onshore flow and cross-shelf mixing near Huntington Beach. For the mean summertime conditions, the eddy diffusivity (Kh) was 1.4±0.4 m2 s−1, with 8% of the water from Sunset Beach moving down the coast. The remaining water must be low-Ra water that has moved onshore. At time scales greater than a week, the short-lived Ra inventory at Huntington Beach varied by 50%, which reflects changes in the fractions of water moving down-coast and/or in the longshore advection rate. The shoreline Ra concentration varied on time scales of hours, which may be generated by tidal changes in the Ra input at the shoreline and short-period fluctuations in the mixing rate. The low Kh observed in this study in comparison to higher values measured further offshore is evidence that Kh increases with distance offshore. When scale-dependent mixing beyond 455 m offshore is incorporated into the model, the results are consistent with the observed data for 223Ra, 224Ra, and 228Ra. Using the model, the 228Ra input flux to the summertime mixed layer was between 3.4×106 and 4.0×106 atoms s−1 (m shoreline)−1.  相似文献   

8.
Measurements of electrical resistivity have long been used to find freshwater resources below the earth's surface. Recently, offshore resistivity and electromagnetic techniques have been used to map occurrences of submarine groundwater originating from the offshore extension of terrestrial aquifers. In many cases, observations of a high resistivity (low conductivity) anomaly in the seafloor are sufficient to suggest the presence of fresh (and less conductive) pore waters. Data from offshore Wrightsville Beach, NC show highly variable resistivity structure, with moderately high resistivity at depths of ~20 m subsurface that is at least in part caused by lithologic complexity in an underlying limestone unit, the Castle Hayne. These offshore results suggest caution in the interpretation of resistivity anomalies simply in terms of groundwater volumes. In contrast, low onshore resistivities show evidence for intrusion of saltwater into the subsurface beneath the beach, adjacent to areas of pumping for water supply.  相似文献   

9.
Long-term, net offshore bar migration is a common occurrence on many multiple-barred beaches. The first stage of the process involves the generation of a longshore bar close to the shoreline that oscillates about a mean position for some time, followed by a stage of net offshore migration across the upper shoreface, and finally a stage of decaying bar form through loss of sediment volume at the outer boundary of the upper shoreface. The phenomenon has been previously documented in the Netherlands, the USA, the Canadian Great Lakes, and in New Zealand, but our present understanding of the morphodynamic processes and sediment transport pathways involved in bar decay is limited. In this paper, long-term, net offshore bar migration is investigated at Vejers Beach, located on the North Sea coast of Denmark where offshore bar migration rates are of the order of 45–55 m a−1. A wave height transformation model confirmed that the decay of the outer bar results in increased wave heights and undertow speeds at the more landward bar potentially causing this bar to speed up its offshore migration. The causes for outer bar decay were investigated through field measurements of sediment transport at the decaying bar and at a position further seaward on the lower shoreface. The measurements showed that a cross-shore transport convergence exists between the bar and the lower shoreface and that the loss of sediment involved in bar decay is associated with a longshore directed transport by non-surf zone processes. At Vejers, and possibly elsewhere, the net offshore migration of bars and the subsequent loss of sand during bar decay is an important part of the beach and shoreface sediment budget.  相似文献   

10.
Five weeks of hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images were used to analyze the meso–macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing. The four storms experienced, one of which with an offshore significant wave height over 8 m, induced dramatic changes in the double sandbar system. The subtidal outer bar migrated offshore rapidly (up to 30–50 m/day) and its pre-existing crescentic pattern was wiped out. The seaward-protruding parts of the outer bar barely migrated offshore during the most intense storm, whereas a landward-protruding part was shed off. Over the entire study period, the outer-bar dynamics was dominated by alongshore-averaged changes rather than alongshore non-uniform changes, while the opposite was observed for the inner bar. In addition, the outer-bar dynamics was predominantly controlled by the time-varying offshore wave conditions, whereas the inner-bar dynamics was influenced largely by the tide-range variations. Our observations put forward the key role of morphological settings (the presence of a subtidal bar and its shape) and tidal range in governing inner-bar behaviour within a double sandbar dynamics, and provide strong support for previous suggestions that sandbars cannot be studied in isolation.  相似文献   

11.
A field experiment is used to evaluate a numerical model of the sheltering of gravity waves by islands offshore of the Southern California region. The sheltering model considered here includes only the effects of island blocking and wave refraction over the island bathymetry. Wave frequency and directional spectra measured in the deep ocean (unsheltered region west of the islands) were used as input to the sheltering model and compared with coastal observations. An airborne L-band synthetic aperture radar was used to image the directional properties of the waves in the deep ocean. In addition to the unsmoothed spectra, a unimodal directional spectrum model obtained from fits to the radar spectra was also employed to suppress the high noise level of this system. Coastal measurements were made in about 10 m depth at Torrey Pines Beach with a high resolution array of pressure sensors. The model predictions and data at Torrey Pines Beach agree well in a limited frequency range (0.082 to 0.114 Hz) where the unimodal deep ocean model is appropriate. The prediction that unimodal northern swell in the deep ocean results in a bimodal directional spectrum at Torrey Pines Beach is quantitatively verified. The northern peak of the bimodal spectra is due to waves coming through the window between San Clemente and San Miguel-Santa Rosa Islands. The southerly peak is due to wave refraction over Cortez and Tanner Banks. For lower frequency waves, the effects of strong refraction in the island vicinity are shown qualitatively. Refraction can theoretically supply up to approximately 10% of the deep ocean energy that is otherwise blocked at this site. The modifications of the island shadows due to wave refraction become theoretically negligible for wave frequencies 0.11Hz. Also, local wave generation effects, which are not included in this sheltering model, are shown to be occasionally important for waves with frequencies 0.12Hz.  相似文献   

12.
The recovery of Santa Rosa Island in northwest Florida is characterized following Hurricane Katrina (September 2005), which was preceded by Hurricanes Ivan (2004) and Dennis (2005). Beach and dune recovery were quantified to the east and west of Pensacola Beach through a comparison of LiDAR data collected immediately following Hurricane Katrina and in July 2006 after almost a year of recovery. East of Pensacola Beach (the Santa Rosa Unit), the shoreline retreated by an average of 64 m during the 2004–2005 hurricane season and recovered by an average of 19 m. To the west of Pensacola Beach (the Fort Pickens Unit), the shoreline retreated by an average of 30 m, and while no significant shoreface recovery was observed, the presence of vegetation on low‐profile dunes promoted backshore accretion. It is found that beachface recovery in the Santa Rosa Unit and backshore accretion in the Fort Pickens Unit occurred at the widest sections of the island where the pre‐storm profile volume had been relatively large and overwash penetration was at a minimum. The narrow sections of the island (between cuspate headlands) had a smaller profile volume before the storms, leading to greater overwash penetration and in some cases island breaching in both sections, which limited the volume of sediment available for shoreface recovery. The alongshore variation in recovery is not only related to the island width, but also the offshore bathymetry, height of the pre‐storm dunes and the overwash penetration. If sufficient time is allowed for the return of vegetation and the recovery of the dunes, the variations in storm impact observed during Hurricane Ivan will be reinforced during subsequent storms. In this respect, the level of impact during subsequent storms and the ability of the island to recover will depend on the frequency of storm events. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Topographic changes in two blowouts located in Island Beach State Park, New Jersey, USA were monitored over the winter of 1981-1982. Elevation changes were measured with erosion pins, and sediment traps placed at comparable locations in each blowout monitored the amount of sand moved by the wind. Discrete wind events were identified from regional data, and morphological data for the intervals with the highest onshore and offshore wind speeds are examined in detail. Vegetation is the primary influence on the development of the two blowouts. Blowout A is characterized by eroding sidewalls, a stable base, and an accreting blowout rim. High rates of sediment transport occur through the blowout throat which results in accretion on the vegetated rim. This blowout is an active sediment transfer system. Vegetation causes a large amount of deposition in the throat of blowout B. As vegetation was buried over the winter, the area of deposition migrated inland. Sidewall erosion also occurred in blowout B. Little change was recorded on the blowout rim. Blowout B is a recovering system where sediment is delivered to the blowout floor from the beach by onshore winds and from the blowout rim by offshore winds where it is stabilized by vegetation. The development of foredune blowouts is governed largely by vegetation cover on the dune crest and by sidewall erosion during offshore and onshore winds. Blowout recovery depends on vegetation growth and sediment deposition in the throat, and on the role of the sidewalls as sources of sediment which is deposited elsewhere within the system. Foredune blowouts are dynamic systems in which positive feedbacks in sediment availability and vegetation growth lead to a cycle of development and closure.  相似文献   

14.
Since 2002, the usually uncommon endemic filamentous brown alga Hincksia sordida (Harvey) Silva (Ectocarpales, Phaeophyta) has formed nuisance blooms annually during spring/early summer at Main Beach, Noosa on the subtropical east Australian coast. The Hincksia bloom coincides with the normally intensive recreational use of the popular bathing beach by the local population and tourists. The alga forms dense accumulations in the surf zone at Main Beach, giving the seawater a distinct brown coloration and deterring swimmers from entering the water. Decomposing algae stranded by receding tides emit a nauseating sulphurous stench which hangs over the beach. The stranded algal biomass is removed from the beach by bulldozers. During blooms, the usually crowded Main Beach is deserted, bathers preferring to use the many unaffected beaches on the Sunshine Coast to the south of Main Beach. The bloom worsens with north-easterly winds and is cleared from Noosa by south easterly winds, observations which have prompted the untenable proposal by local authorities that the bloom is forming offshore of Fraser Island in the South Pacific Ocean. The Noosa River estuarine system/Laguna Bay is the more probable source of the bloom and the nutrient inputs into this system must be substantial to generate the high bloom biomass. Current mitigation procedures of removing the blooming alga off the beach with bulldozers treat the symptom, not the cause and are proving ineffective. Environmental management must be based on science and the Noosa bloom would benefit greatly from the accurate ecological data on which to base management options.  相似文献   

15.
以某近海大桥引桥段连续梁桥为工程背景,建立考虑海底地震动特性和腐蚀效应的近海桥梁地震反应分析模型。采用增量动力分析方法分析腐蚀效应以及海底地震动作用对近海桥梁地震响应的影响。研究结果表明:腐蚀效应与海底地震动作用都会不同程度影响近海桥梁结构的抗震性能。其中:腐蚀效应会增大近海桥梁的破坏指标,降低最大墩底剪力和弯矩值,从而降低桥梁的抗震性能;海底地震动作用会增大近海桥梁的破坏指标及最大墩底剪力、弯矩值;在2种因素耦合作用下,桥梁的抗震性能将会进一步降低。  相似文献   

16.
We present results from a 5-h field program (HB06) that took place at California’s Huntington State Beach. We assessed the importance of physical dynamics in controlling fecal indicator bacteria (FIB) concentrations during HB06 using an individual based model including alongshore advection and cross-shore variable horizontal diffusion. The model was parameterized with physical (waves and currents) and bacterial (Escherichia coli and Enterococcus) observations made during HB06. The model captured surfzone FIB dynamics well (average surfzone model skill: 0.84 {E. coli} and 0.52 {Enterococcus}), but fell short of capturing offshore FIB dynamics. Our analyses support the hypothesis that surfzone FIB variability during HB06 was a consequence of southward advection and diffusion of a patch of FIB originating north of the study area. Offshore FIB may have originated from a different, southern, source. Mortality may account for some of the offshore variability not explained by the physical model.  相似文献   

17.
The main objective of this study is the characterization of the wave climate in the Southern Brazilian Shelf (SBS) based on a thorough review of existing field data and on numerical modeling experiments. A quantitative knowledge about the wave climate of this area is important to understand the mechanisms driving episodic mud bank attachments to the sandy shore, and the interaction of these banks with the flow and waves. The statistical analysis of existent data on the wave climate throughout the SBS indicates that the predominant wave directions are 100° and 160° (E–SE), with wave heights varying between 1 and 1.50 m. The wave period varies between 6 and 14 s, with predominance of mean wave period of 8 s (sea conditions) and 12 s (swell conditions). The spectral wave model SWAN version 40.41 [Booij, N., Haagsma, I.J.G., Holthuijsen, L.H., Kieftenburg, A.T.M.M., Ris, R.C., van der Westhuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., 2004. SWAN Cycle III Version 40.41 Users Manual, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands, p. 118, http://fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/index.htm] is used to simulate the wave climate for the region. Special attention is given to Cassino Beach, describing the wave climate observed during the Cassino Experiment, carried out in 2005. The verification of the standard SWAN model was carried out based on the comparison between numerical modeling results and available data of significant wave height, peak period, mean wave direction and energy density for the period relative to February of 1998. Results showed satisfactory model predictions of significant wave height and reasonably accurate predictions of peak spectral wave period and direction. The model performance is also considered satisfactory in the representation of the wave climate of the region when the wave spectrum has only one spectral peak, but presents limitations for bimodal wave spectrum. When two spectral peaks are observed, the SWAN model agrees with the spectral level observed in the low frequency, but underestimates the spectral level in the high-frequency band. When considering the presence of mud deposits in the area, model results predict that although the presence of mud attenuates most of the wave energy on the low frequency peak, it has a smaller effect in attenuating the wave energy on the high frequency peak.  相似文献   

18.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
IINTRODUCTIONDependingonflowandoperatingconditions,navigationtrafficmaycausesignificantresuspensionofdepositedsediment.Jnanumberofsituationsresuspensionofdepositedsedimentcanhavesevereenvironmentalrepercussions.Forinstance,ifthesedimentcontainscontaminants,thecontaminantsmaybereentrainedwiththesediment,taintingthewaterquality(Erdmannetal.,1994).Inothersituations,..evedincreasesintheamountofcleansuspendedsedimentcanbedetrimentalforaquaticplantsandanimals(Garcfaetal.,1998).Inordertoassesst…  相似文献   

20.
Bender element (BE) tests of saturated sand have increased interest to researchers currently. However, the measurement of small strain modulus from BE tests shows large difference between saturated and dry conditions. In this study, BE tests of a type of clean sand (Fujian sand) and two types of natural sands (Hangzhou sand and Nanjing sand) were performed. For the purposes of comparison, resonant column (RC) test and torsional shear (TS) test were also carried out on the same specimen. The factors that influence the determination of the travel time of shear wave in BE tests are discussed and a reliable method for the determination of the shear-wave velocity is obtained. It is found that the shear-wave velocities Vs of saturated Fujian sand (clean sand) and Hangzhou sand (natural sand) obtained from BE tests are 5–10% greater than those obtained from RC and TS tests. However, the Vs of saturated Nanjing sand (natural sand) obtained from BE, RC and TS tests show good agreement with a maximum difference of about 3%. Sands with various fines contents were also tested in an attempt to explain the differences between the two saturated natural sands. Biot׳s theory accounting for the dispersion of shear wave was employed to interpret the results of BE tests. The results indicate that the fines content of natural sand plays an important effect on the hydraulic conductivity, which affects the relative motion between soil particles and fluid when a high frequency shear wave propagates in the specimen. Based on this, a method for the determination of small strain shear modulus in BE test was proposed for both saturated clean sands and natural sands.  相似文献   

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