A note on suspension transport in the beach gradient model

A previous model for nearshore orthogonal gradients (Hardisty, 1986) was based upon a simple bedload function and identified feedback relationships between the equilibrium seabed gradient and wave induced flow asymmetry. That model is developed here with the inclusion of suspended load transport, first order shoaling transformations, second order wave induced flows, and a measure of the sediment grain size. The results are compared with some of the general features of prototype geomorphologies.     

A model of inter-annual variability in beach levels

Beach profile data, collected twice per year at 19 stations over a 25 km length of coastline in Tremadoc Bay, have been analysed to quantify the inter-annual variability in beach levels over a 7 year period and the results compared against the output of a numerical model. Using hourly wind data as forcing, the morphological development of northern Tremadoc Bay was simulated by wave, tidal, longshore transport, total transport and bed level change models. The modelling methodology was efficient and innovative, allowing realistic simulations of long duration with a time step of 1 h, hence capturing the high frequency nature of wind events. The model was run for each of the 7 autumn/winter periods (generally November–April) and the modelled net change in beach levels compared with the data from all 19 stations. The model results had reasonable agreement with the beach profile surveys. However, the observed magnitude of bed level change in the bay lagged the model output by 1 year, indicating that sediment processes acting over a larger area are important in a relatively localised study of inter-annual variability.     

A numerical model for shore-normal sediment size variation on a macrotidal beach

This paper describes a computer simulation model which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling, wave height attenuation due to frictional losses and breaking, using linear theory up to the break point and a breaker decay model in the surf zone. Peak horizontal orbital velocities at the bed are calculated from Stokes second-order wave theory. The peak onshore and offshore velocities are used with the threshold expression of Komar and Miller (1975) to generate a spatial pattern of size variation of threshold grain diameter along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the swash zone. The predicted grain size is used in an hydraulic interpretation of grain size distribution on the intertidal profile, based on the hydrodynamic variations over a tidal cycle on a macrotidal beach. The model is successful in predicting the broad pattern of increasing grain size in the onshore direction which has been observed in nature. Comparisons between measured and predicted grain size distributions indicate that the predictions of the model are better than those of previous models, but the model is more successful at predicting sediment size distributions than at predicting mean sizes on a beach profile.     

Behaviour of beach profiles during accretion and erosion dominated periods

Beach profiles have been surveyed at monthly intervals between 1972 and 1988 at Moruya on the South Coast of New South Wales, Australia. Four profile sites have been used as a data set to provide an understanding of changes to beach volume, width, and shape. Moruya beach represents a moderately high energy, microtidal environment, which responds in a dramatic way to major storm events such as those experienced in the mid-1970s. This study distinguishes between profile characteristics associated with such a period (erosion-dominated or EDP) compared with periods when accretion dominated (ADP) accompanied by foredune expansion in both height and width.     

A Markov model for beach changes on the holderness coast of England

Markov models offer an objective and quantitative method of assessing beach changes. For a stretch of the Holderness coast a beach classification scheme was devised and a probabilistic first order matrix model based on surveyed profile data was produced. This could describe and predict transitions between beach types and between different time periods. Different profile types dominated different coastal locations and seasonal variations were seen. In order to improve the accuracy of prediction throughout the year a second, ‘winter’, model was added to the original ‘summer’ one. Although the models had been prepared independently of wave conditions, a comparison of the wave record and beach transitions revealed that waves under 0·3–0·5 m high produced fairly static beaches; when waves were between 0·5 and 1·0 m the beach was more dynamic and variable, while waves over 1·0 m led to the depletion of the upper beach. This was broadly in accordance with published theory. Markov models have the advantage that they can be adjusted periodically if conditions change, and are thus useful for prediction on coasts for which no wave records exist.     

Downdrift coarsening of beach foreshore sediments at tidal inlets: An example from the coast of New Jersey

Analysis of grain size statistics of upper foreshore sediments on sand beaches at two tidal inlets in New Jersey, U.S.A. reveals that sediments are coarser at beaches flanking the inlets than updrift, although sediments become finer downdrift at the broad, regional scale. The local reversal of the regional trend in size grading is attributed to: (1) the offshore diversion of the finer sands along the surf zone on the ebb tidal delta, and (2) the removal of the finer sands from the inlet flank beach caused by low wave energy conditions at low stages of the tide and by deflation. Sediments thus become coarser at inlet beaches as a result of alterations in the interaction of waves with the beach and as a result of aeolian processes, not solely as a result of increased tidal current velocities as previously reported. The distance along the New Jersey barrier islands over which inlet processes are likely to affect changes in sediment size updrift averages less than 1100 m, but the impacts of inlets on the sedimentary record can be extended greater distances as a result of inlet migration.     

Spatial and seasonal aspects of beach stability

Recent work at three contrasting sites in England and Wales has shown characteristics atypical of those frequently reported elsewhere. These differences are:

• (a) Taking each entire beach system there is no uniform trend of erosion or accretion, nor a progressive variation in beach elevation or volume alongshore, from one survey to the next. However, for Swansea Bay the ‘long-term’ (i. e. 18 months) range in profile height along that stretch of coast where the alignment of the beach is normal to the direction of wave approach, correlates well with computed wave energy derived from relevant offshore wave directions.
• (b) While beach variability is greatest during the ‘winter’ (i. e. storm) period there is no overall tendency for a drawdown of sediment from the intertidal zone at that time. Response times are relatively short. Thus high beach levels need not necessarily be associated with ‘summer’ conditions.
• (c) Although in Swansea Bay there is a tendency for the beach height to fluctuate least at mid-tide level this is not true of the other two sites. In no area does sediment eroded from the upper exposed part of the beach regularly appear to be deposited on the lower exposed part, or vice versa.

     

One-dimensional morphodynamic model for retrogressive erosion based on a sediment entrainment theory at high flow velocity

Retrogressive erosion is a high-speed erosion process that usually occurs during the rapid release of stored water in reservoirs built on sandy rivers.Retrogressive erosion has been utilized in the practice of reservoir sedimentation control,but accurate prediction of the bed deformation process by numerical models has rarely been reported.The current study presents a one-dimensional morphodynamic model for simulating the evolution process of retrogressive erosion induced by high-velocity flows on steep slopes.The governing equations apply a Cartesian coordinate system with a vertically oriented z axis.The bed surface gradient and friction terms in the flow equations include correction factors to take account of the effects of high slope on flow movement.The net vertical sediment flux term in the sediment transport and bed deformation equations is calculated using an equation of erosion velocity.Particularly,this equation is based on an empirical relation between the sediment entrainment rate and the Shields parameter in contrast to the traditional sediment transport capacity,and the critical Shields parameter is modified by taking into account the permeability of the sediment layer and the stability of particles on a slope.The feedback of scoured sediment on the flow movement is considered by additional terms in the governing equations.Flume experiments of retrogressive erosion in literature were simulated to validate the model.The temporal variations of the longitudinal profiles of the free surface and channel bed and the sediment transport rate were well predicted.The algorithm calculating sediment entrainment in the proposed model also was validated for an experiment measuring entrainment rate from the literature.More importantly,it was found that the morphodynamic model using the sediment transport capacity equation predicts the trend of cumulative erosion contrary to the measurements,while results of the proposed model can follow a similar trend with the observed data in the retrogressive erosion process.     

A standardized method for sampling and extraction methods for quantifying microplastics in beach sand

Microplastics are ubiquitous in the environment, are frequently ingested by organisms, and may potentially cause harm. A range of studies have found significant levels of microplastics in beach sand. However, there is a considerable amount of methodological variability among these studies. Methodological variation currently limits comparisons as there is no standard procedure for sampling or extraction of microplastics. We identify key sampling and extraction procedures across the literature through a detailed review. We find that sampling depth, sampling location, number of repeat extractions, and settling times are the critical parameters of variation. Next, using a case-study we determine whether and to what extent these differences impact study outcomes. By investigating the common practices identified in the literature with the case-study, we provide a standard operating procedure for sampling and extracting microplastics from beach sand.     

Sequential monitoring of beach litter using webcams

This study attempts to establish a system for the sequential monitoring of beach litter using webcams placed at the Ookushi beach, Goto Islands, Japan, to establish the temporal variability in the quantities of beach litter every 90 min over a one and a half year period. The time series of the quantities of beach litter, computed by counting pixels with a greater lightness than a threshold value in photographs, shows that litter does not increase monotonically on the beach, but fluctuates mainly on a monthly time scale or less. To investigate what factors influence this variability, the time derivative of the quantity of beach litter is compared with satellite-derived wind speeds. It is found that the beach litter quantities vary largely with winds, but there may be other influencing factors.     

Temporal and spatial variation in the sediment volume along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari (SE INDIA)

A 2-year set of profile data from Ovari to Kanyakumari Beach,SE India has been analysed by using empirical orthogonal function(EOF) techniques to identify characteristic patterns of temporal and spatial variation in the sediment volume of the beaches.The results show that variation in the sediment volume of the beach is determined by interaction between the biennial and seasonal exchanges.EOF analysis the pattern of alongshore sediment exchange along the study area.The method facilitated separation of onshore-offshore and alongshore modes of sediment transfer and identification of the patterns of alongshore sediment exchange.The eigenfunction modes confirm the dominance of biennial,annual,and biannual sediment transfers occurring on study area.The sediment movement along the shoreline of study area is mainly governed by the forces associated with the incoming waves and the availability of sediments within the area.The present investigation has been made as an attempt to appreciate the sediment movement in relation to wave activity along the coast.The longshore sediment transport is intensive in the northerly direction as compared to southerly direction.The normal condition is for and to be moved annually or more frequently in the shallows and on the beach.Waves and wave-driven currents cause longshore drift of sand along the beach and offshore.     

Indicators of microbial beach water quality: Preliminary findings from Teluk Kemang beach,Port Dickson (Malaysia)

This study aims to determine the concentrations of total coliforms and Escherichia coli (E. coli) in beach water, Teluk Kemang beach. This study was also aimed to determine relationship between total coliforms, E. coli and physicochemical parameters. As perceived health symptoms among beach visitors are rarely incorporated in beach water studies, this element was also assessed in this study. A total of eight water sampling points were selected randomly along Teluk Kemang beach. Total coliforms concentrations were found between 20 and 1940 cfu/100 ml. E. coli concentrations were between 0 and 90 cfu/100 ml. Significant correlations were found between total coliforms and E. coli with pH, temperature and oxidation reduction potential. Skin and eyes symptoms were the highest reported though in small numbers. Microbiological water quality in Teluk Kemang public beach was generally safe for recreational activities except sampling location near with sewage outfall.     

Analysis of key parameters in a diffusion type beach profile evolution model

Diffusion type formulations are commonly used in beach profile evolution models. The practical idea behind that is to map the behaviour of the beach profile onto a simple mathematical model that exhibits the same behaviour under defined operating conditions. The success of this approach is based on the accurate determination of key parameters in the diffusion model that govern its behaviour, using observed beach behaviour in the field. In order to determine these parameters, i.e. diffusion coefficient and a time and space varying source function, we used observations of historic beach profiles at Milford-on-Sea beach in Christchurch Bay, Dorset, United Kingdom. The relationship between the diffusion coefficient and Dean's equilibrium profile was investigated, leading to a new interpretation of the diffusion coefficient in terms of the sediment characteristics. The analysis also shows the significance of the diffusion process in the medium to long term evolution of the beach profile. A canonical correlation analysis (CCA) was undertaken in order to identify patterns of behaviour between wave conditions and source terms, and the possible correlations between them. The analysis provides strong evidence of a useful link between the source term in the simple dynamical equation and the distribution of wave steepness.     

An investigation of morphological zonation of beach rock erosional features

Application of one-dimensional Fourier analysis to the erosional morphology of intertidal beach at a number of contrasting sites in North Queensland, Australia, confirms that there exists a zonation of hollows. Although different combinations of processes may be responsible for the morphology of each zone it is suggested that increasing case hardening and joint development with associated intermittent exposure of the beach rock may be the greatest influence on the development of erosion hollow zonation.     

Sediment erodability in sediment transport modelling: Can we account for biota effects?

Sediment erosion results from hydrodynamic forcing, represented by the bottom shear stress (BSS), and from the erodability of the sediment, defined by the critical erosion shear stress and the erosion rate. Abundant literature has dealt with the effects of biological components on sediment erodability and concluded that sediment processes are highly sensitive to the biota. However, very few sediment transport models account for these effects. We provide some background on the computation of BSS, and on the classical erosion laws for fine sand and mud, followed by a brief review of biota effects with the aim of quantifying the latter into generic formulations, where applicable.     

Numerical modelling of the suspended sediment transport in Torres Strait

One-dimensional vertical and three-dimensional fine-resolution numerical models of sediment transport have been developed and applied to the Torres Strait region of northern Australia. The one-dimensional model, driven by measured waves and currents, was calibrated against measured suspended sediment concentrations using a sequential data assimilation algorithm. The algorithm produced a good match between model and data, but this was achieved only by allowing some temporal variability in parameter values, suggesting that there were underlying uncertainties in the model structure and forcing data. Implications of the assimilation results to the accuracy of the numerical modelling are discussed and the need for observational programmes having an extensive spatial and temporal coverage is highlighted. The three-dimensional sediment model, driven by modelled waves and currents, simulates sediment transport over the shelf during the monsoon and trade-wind seasons covering 1997–2000. The model predicts strong seasonal variability of the sediment transport on the shelf attributed to seasonally varying hydrodynamics, and illustrates significant inter-annual variability of the sediment fluxes driven by extreme events. The developed model provides a platform for testing scientific hypothesis. With additional calibration, including uncertainty analysis, it can also be used in a management context.     

Pore water transport of enterococci out of beach sediments

Enterococci are used to evaluate the safety of beach waters and studies have identified beach sands as a source of these bacteria. In order to study and quantify the release of microbes from beach sediments, flow column systems were built to evaluate flow of pore water out of beach sediments. Results show a peak in enterococci (average of 10% of the total microbes in core) released from the sand core within one pore water volume followed by a marked decline to below detection. These results indicate that few enterococci are easily removed and that factors other than simple pore water flow control the release of the majority of enterococci within beach sediments. A significantly larger quantity and release of enterococci were observed in cores collected after a significant rain event suggesting the influx of fresh water can alter the release pattern as compared to cores with no antecedent rainfall.